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Journey from Boston to Portsmouth: sojourn at Portsmouth: history, constitution and statistics of New Hampshire: journey from Portsmouth to New York: description of Long Island.

The state of New Hampshire having sent a deputation to invite general Lafayette to visit the navy yard at Portsmouth, we set out for that place on the 31st of August, by the way of Lexington, Concord, Salem, Marblehead and Newburyport. We delayed but a few moments at Lexington, but we left it deeply impressed by the touching scenes we there witnessed, and the historical recollection it awakens. We recollected that it was at this place in 1775, a few farmers were slaughtered by an English battalion; and upon the same spot Lafayette was welcomed by a free and happy population assembled to greet him. We advanced through two handsome lines of militia troops to the base of the pyramid which indicates the place where the first martyrs of liberty fell, and now repose. There two old men related to us this first scene of the grand revolutionary tragedy, in which they were actors; and this circumstance lent a powerful charm to their recital, which captivated our attention. They were delighted to recall the smallest particulars of this action, repeated with heated indignation the insulting and menacing words of the fierce Pitcairn, when he summoned them to surrender, and the smile of pity and contempt curled their lips when they told how 800 Englishmen had fired upon sixty farmers: they then named with tenderness those of their companions and friends who fell by their sides, turning their eyes filled with tears upon the ground, while our own involuntarily rested upon the last asylum of these hero citizens, paying them a tribute of gratitude and admiration. After some moments of solemn silence, one of the two old men exclaimed, “we still weep for our brethren, but we do not deplore them, they died for their country and liberty!” At the words country and liberty, the crowd, deeply affected, responded by shouts of “long live Lafayette,” and during a long time it was difficult to moderate this burst of public gratitude. All the militia of the district were assembled at Lexington; they defiled before the pyramid and Lafayette, lowering before these two monuments of their revolution their standards, upon which the murder of their ancestors was delineated, by which hatred of despotism is perpetuated among these youthful soldier-citizens.

Just as we were about to depart from the pyramid to re-enter our carriages, a young man presented himself, having in his hands a long rudely shaped and rusty musket; he presented it to Lafayette with a solemnity which induced us to suppose that the weapon by some peculiar circumstance had acquired a right to the veneration of the bearer. In fact, we learned that this was the musket from which the first fire was returned to the English, upon the field of Lexington. “My father bore it on the 19th of April, 1775,” said the young man; “in his hands it commenced the work that Washington and you so gloriously achieved; I am happy to make it known to you.” Lafayette examined it with pleasure; all of us desired to touch it; in returning it to him, the general advised him to have inscribed on the stock the date of April 19th, and the name of the brave citizen who bore it, and then to keep it in a box for the purpose of securing it from the ravages of time. He was moved by this advice and promised to follow it.

Although Concord is but a short distance from Lexington, we were nevertheless obliged to stop there. The inhabitants of the vicinity were collected in the public square, where a tent of flowers and verdure had been erected, under which a troop of blooming and beautiful girls offered refreshments to the Nation’s Guest, who was forced to take a seat at the centre of an elegantly prepared table, around which none but ladies were admitted. Young girls crowned with flowers moved around the table of which they did the honours with touching grace and ease; but it was especially to Lafayette that all their attention was directed, and upon him their tenderest care was concentrated. All was smiling, all was gracious in the picture of happiness and joy before us; but at the same instant we were struck by a singular contrast. In front of the tent, at the other extremity of the public square, we perceived upon a hillock which terminated it, a confused collection of funeral monuments. We recognized the place consecrated to the dead. Of all these monuments, the greater number were already blackened by time; some were still of a glaring whiteness; near one of the latter was placed a female and two children clad in black, whose sorrowing attitudes seemed to say that festival days are not days of repose for death; but not one of the gay party appeared to regard this; all were too happy to remark the narrowness of the space by which they were separated from the spot where all sink into oblivion.

At Marblehead I was aroused from the profound reverie into which the circumstances at Concord had plunged me, by the sound of cannon, and the shouts of the people, who rushed to meet Lafayette. Brilliant preparations had been made to receive him, although it was known that he could only stop to breakfast. In ascending Washington Hill, we were met by the pupils of eleven public and twenty private schools, conducted by their teachers and the president of the board of instruction. There were nine hundred children of both sexes. A deputation, formed by a representative from each class, approached the carriage, and presented an address to Lafayette, in which the children expressed to him their gratitude for the services he had rendered their parents. Salem is only 14 miles from Boston, and yet we did not reach there until afternoon, because at almost every step Lafayette was obliged to stop to receive testimonials of regard from all we met upon the road. At the entrance of the city, we were received by the magistrates, and by a numerous cavalcade of citizens; several military corps were drawn up on each side of the way, and his entry was announced by salutes of artillery and the chiming of the bells. In spite of the rain, which fell in torrents, the streets were entirely filled with the crowds that rushed towards him, and uttered their benedictions. We passed through the town on foot, in order to go under a great number of triumphal arches decorated with emblems and inscriptions. Upon one was “Honour to Lafayette! honour to him who fought and shed his blood for the peace and happiness we enjoy:” upon another, “Lafayette, friend and defender of liberty, welcome to the land of your adoption;” on another, “In the day of our adversity, thou didst aid us, in the days of our prosperity, we recall thy services with gratitude.” The dining-hall and the dinner itself, had been decorated and prepared by the hands of a great number of ladies. In front of Lafayette’s seat, amid garlands of flowers, was the following inscription: “Lafayette in America—Where can one better be than in the bosom of his family?”

Ancient companions in arms, placed at his sides, claimed the privilege of serving him, reminding him gaily, that they acquired this right at Yorktown, where he had not refused their services. The dinner ended with a great number of toasts. One was drank to “France, the friend of liberty in America; may she never become the friend of oppression in Europe.” Immediately after, we quitted Salem to pass the night at Newburyport. Although the weather continued to be disagreeable, the general could not dissuade the Salem citizens from escorting him; they galloped along side of his carriage, sword in hand, for nearly nine miles, at the risk of falling twenty times, so very bad were the roads.

Notwithstanding all our diligence, it was late at night when we arrived at Newburyport. The brilliance of the illuminations, and the fires lighted in appropriate places in the street, the uninterrupted sounds of cannon, bells, the shouts of people, and the sight of armed troops advancing rapidly to the sound of the drum, might have led one to suppose we were entering a town taken by storm, and delivered to the flames, if the words Liberty, Country, Washington, Lafayette, which incessantly fell upon our ears, had not reminded us that we were present at a truly national and popular festival. Although the night was so far advanced, the general was obliged to devote a considerable time to the reception of the citizens who pressed forward in crowds to greet him. We stopped at Tracy’s inn, which had been prepared for our reception. General Washington staid there in 1789. The chamber he used was afterwards preserved with the greatest care; the furniture had not been changed, and Lafayette had the pleasure of resting in the same bed, where, thirty-five years ago, his father and his friend had reposed. From the joy which appeared to sparkle in the eyes of our host, it was easy to divine the sentiments that animated him, and how difficult it would be to induce him to part with the furniture which had served Washington and Lafayette.

We left Newburyport early in the morning, and arrived about mid-day at Portsmouth. Numerous corps of infantry, and almost the whole population, headed by their magistrates, came out of the city to meet Lafayette. A thousand children from various schools were ranged in a double row along the road, and though these poor children had no other covering but wreaths of flowers, and the rain was falling abundantly, none would relinquish their posts. The procession formed to accompany the general’s entry into the town, was more than two miles long. After it had passed through the principal streets, we stopped in Congress street, at Franklin Hall. There the president of the town council pronounced on behalf of the assembled citizens, an address.

The general was then presented to the governor of New Hampshire, Mr. Morill, who had purposely come from his residence, to receive him, after his introduction to the governor, he was surrounded by his ancient companions in arms, among whom he recognized general Smith, who had served three years under him as a captain of light infantry. While they were felicitating each other on their meeting, they were interrupted by another old revolutionary soldier, who with tears in his eyes recounted aloud the great number of services rendered to him during the war, by the Marquis; Lafayette with much difficulty interrupted his recital which embarrassed him exceedingly, but which vividly excited the interest of the spectators.

In going to our lodgings, which were prepared in the house of the late governor Langdon, we met some Indians in the street; these were the first I had seen, and excited my curiosity very much; some members of the committee caused a dozen of these savages from the forests of Canada to visit us at our lodgings. I learned that they came from beyond the great lakes to exchange peltries for toys and liquor. I confess that I found nothing in them which corresponded with my ideas of these children of nature.9 Their dresses had no other character than that of misery; crosses and chaplets had taken the place of their beautiful head-dresses of plumes, their furs and their arms; their drunken visages had nothing of that noble expression which is said so particularly to distinguish the savage man: at first their manners appeared affectionate, but it was soon evident that they were only servile or interested. They talked of beads and confession, as their fathers, no doubt did of sorcerers and manitoes. In a word it appeared to me that these poor wretches had only changed superstitions, and that civilization had brought them its vices without any of its benefits. In fact I was assured that the majority of them had become idle, drunken thieves, without being in the least degree improved in knowledge. An old man who spoke a little French, appeared to be their chief, he told us they lived in Canada. When asked if they were happy in the vicinity of the English, he replied that they loved the French very much; and immediately he and his companions shook hands very cordially with us. They had with them several of their wives, some of whom were suckling their children; they also appeared very miserable, and by no means pretty.

During our conversation with the civilized Indians a new procession was formed to conduct Lafayette to the navy yard; he went thither a few moments afterwards, but neither his son nor myself could accompany him, as we were desirous of profiting by a sure and prompt opportunity of writing to our friends in France. We regretted however that we missed the chance of seeing the navy yard which is said to be very fine and of considerable extent. The remainder of the day was occupied by a public dinner at which all the public officers and Mr. Salazar, chargé des affaires for the republic of Columbia were present. After dinner we went to a ball, where more than four hundred ladies were introduced to Lafayette; we left the ball at midnight to take our carriages for Boston, where our travelling companions from New York awaited us. Before resuming the account of our progress, I will devote a few pages to the history, constitution, and present condition of the state of New Hampshire, of which Portsmouth is the most considerable town, both for its population, which exceed seven thousand souls, and its commerce which is very extensive.

The state of New Hampshire is situated between the 42° 42′, and the 45° 14′ N. Lat. and between the 4° 29′ and the 6° 10′ of east longitude, from Washington; its surface contains 9280 square miles; its form is that of a trapezium, having its base to the south. On the north it is bounded by Lower Canada; south by Massachusetts; east by Maine and the ocean; and west by the Connecticut river which separates it from Vermont. The coast of New Hampshire is about eighteen miles in extent, is generally sandy and slightly indented. In the interior we find very high lands, amongst which the white hills or mountains are the highest. The most considerable collection of water are the lakes Umbagog and Winnipiseogee, and the lakes Connecticut, Piscataqua and Merimac. The soil of New Hampshire is of primitive formation and generally fertile; however the most productive are on the borders of the streams, which deposit a rich alluvion by their inundations. On the banks of the sea an abundance of salt hay is cured which is found to be very acceptable to the cattle. The most abundant mines are those of iron in the district of Franconia and at Enfield. A small quantity of native silver in threads is found in the western mountains, but it is not worth the expense of procuring it. Plumbago is found in considerable abundance in Sutton county district, and about Monadnock mountain.

The heats of summer are short but excessive; as to the cold it must be very severe, since lake Winnipiseogee which is twenty-four miles in length, and in some places twelve miles wide, is frozen for three months in the year, so hard as to bear heavy wagons. The climate is, however, very salubrious, and examples of longevity are not uncommon; individuals are frequently known to live over an hundred years.

New Hampshire was discovered in 1614 by captain Smith, and the first settlements were made by fishermen and planters on the river Piscataqua, in 1623. These establishments were placed under the government of Massachusetts in 1692. In 1787 the first constitution of New Hampshire was framed, and the limits determined between it and Massachusetts. In 1765 the people rejected the stamp act with energy, and afterwards engaged in the revolutionary war, which they supported with vigour and perseverance to the end. The state of New Hampshire was the ninth that voted for the adoption of the new federal constitution of the United States; it was carried in the legislature by a majority of eleven, the number of members being 300. This circumstance decided in favour of the establishment of the federal government. The new constitution was adopted in 1792; it was preceded by a declaration of rights and recognised three powers, the legislative, executive, and judiciary.

The legislative power is vested in the senate and a house of representatives, which compose the general assembly, and each branch exercises a negative over the other. Bills relative to monies originate in the house of representatives, but it may be amended in the senate which directs the expenditures.

The senate is composed of thirteen, elected annually by taxable citizens. A candidate must 1st, be thirty years old; 2d, must own a freehold in the state worth £200—3d, he must have resided in the state seven years previous to the election, and be a resident of the county by which he is elected.

The house of representatives is composed of members from the different towns, the number of which is proportioned to the population in the ratio of one representative for every 150 taxable inhabitants, of 20 years old at least, and of two for every 450, so that it requires 300 additional taxable inhabitants for every new member.

The election is made by ballot, and no one is eligible unless he own in the county a freehold, whereof he is seized in his own right, of the value of £500. It is necessary also that he reside in the district at the time of his election, and have resided two years within the state.

Every male citizen of 20 years old, except paupers and persons exempt from taxes at their own request, have the right of voting for senators and representatives. The executive power is confided to the governor and five councillors.

The governor is chosen annually by vote of all the taxable citizens; and if two candidates have an equal number of votes, the choice is decided by the joint ballot of both houses of assembly. A candidate for the governorship must be thirty years old, be an inhabitant of the state for seven years preceding the election, have an estate of the value of five hundred pounds, one half of which to consist of a freehold in his own right, in the state. The governor is commander in chief of the forces by land and sea, with the advice and consent of the council of state, which he assembles at will. He appoints the attorney and solicitor general, and the other officers of justice. He has the right of pardoning criminals, except such as are convicted before the senate, by impeachment of the house. He signs all the commissions which are moreover countersigned by his secretary.

The councillors are also elected by all the taxable citizens of 20 years old, and the same requisites are demanded of them as of the governor, with this difference however, that at least three hundred pounds of their property must be in freehold.

The secretary, treasurer, and commissary general are chosen by ballot by the senators and representatives.

The treasurer of the county and the town clerk are appointed by the inhabitants of each county.

The members of congress are chosen by the inhabitants assembled in town meetings, and their votes are sent to the secretary, who opens them before the general court. It is in the same way that candidates for the presidency and vice-presidency are chosen. The two senators in congress are elected by the general courts.

The judiciary court is composed of a superior court of four judges who annually make two circuits through the counties; an inferior court, with the same number of judges in each county, who sit four times a year; a general court of sessions of justices of the peace, who sit at the same time; a court of probates, formed of a single judge who sits every month in each county; and justices of the peace.

The judges are appointed by the governor and council, and retain their places until they are 70 years old. They are liable to impeachment for misbehaviour in office.

The jury composed of twelve freeholders whose verdict decides the judgment in civil and criminal suits, is selected by the municipal council from among persons worth fifty pounds. The names of one third of the members are placed in one box; and the names of the two-thirds in another. The jurors for the superior court are drawn from the first box, and those for the inferior court from the second, by the town clerk in the public assembly.

The general court is authorized to reform the judiciary system when it is deemed convenient or necessary to the public service; to give to the justices of the peace jurisdiction in civil causes, when real estate is not concerned and the damages do not exceed four pounds, with the right of appeal to another court and the trial by jury.

The chief justice receives 1500 dollars per annum; each of the other judges receives 1200.

The sheriffs like the judges are ineligible after they have attained to seventy years, nor can they act or receive fees as lawyers or counsel, while they are in office.

All the civil and military officers take the following oath before entering upon office.

“I solemnly swear that I will bear faith and true allegiance to the state of New Hampshire, and will defend the constitution thereof, and I will faithfully and impartially discharge and perform the duties incumbent on me as governor, secretary, &c. &c. to the best of my abilities, agreeably to the rules and regulations of this constitution, and the laws of New Hampshire, so help me God.”

If the officer be a quaker his affirmation is received, adding thereto, “I do this under the pains and penalties of perjury.”

The financial organization is equally economic and liberal. Every town appoints one or more collectors of taxes, who are furnished with the tax lists and entrusted with full powers to seize, in case of necessity, the goods or persons of delinquents. If any one refuse to produce a statement of his property subject to taxes, the municipal council determines the sum such an individual shall pay to the state. The levies upon the counties are divided by the judges of a court which is held four times a year, and the proportion that each town is to pay, is specified in the order to the treasurer of the county.

A new assessment of taxes is annually made in the month of April, upon the property of taxable individuals; all these goods are taxed at six per cent of the value of their income; except uncultivated lands, and ships which only pay ¼ per cent of their real value. Mills and ferry-boats are taxed one-twelfth of their annual income: funds in commerce according to their value, and money at interest at from three-fourths to one per cent.

The debts contracted by the state in 1814, amounting with the interest to more than 30,000 dollars, have been paid; and the state has at present considerable funds in the bank of the United States.

The wisdom and economy of the administration, and the equity of the government have borne their fruits. The happiness of the people of New Hampshire is indubitable; it is attested by the diffusion of knowledge, by the wealth of commerce, the prosperity of agriculture, and the rapid increase of population. This increase in spite of the constant emigration towards the new countries of the south, and especially of the west, is still very remarkable. In 1755 the population was about 34,000 souls; in 1790 it was 141,885; in 1800 it was 183,858; in 1810 it was 214,460, and at present it amounts to 244,161 souls. Of this number about 800 are free persons of colour. Although there is no special law against slavery, the philanthropic spirit of the inhabitants, and a correct view of their interests, have done justice in regard to this monstrosity, and we may say at present, slavery does not exist in New Hampshire: we may say the same indeed of all the New England states.

This population of 244,161 souls, furnishes 2,384 persons devoted to agriculture, 8,699 to manufactures, and 1,068 to commerce.

The state of New Hampshire could bring 25,000 men into the field from the class of citizens from 16 to 45 years old. In case of need this force could be considerably augmented by the men who are on the alarm list, which is formed of men from 45 to 60 years old, and of all those exempt from ordinary service by the militia regulations. The exemptions are the same as those of Massachusetts.

I have said that the diffusion of knowledge in New Hampshire was great. The advantage of a good general education is owing to the care of the government and the foresight of the constitution, which directs the legislator and magistrate always to regard as a sacred duty the advancement of the interests of letters and science and of all the public schools; to encourage private institutions; to give rewards and privileges for the encouragement of agriculture, the arts, sciences and commerce; the natural history and manufactures of the country.

As in all the rest of the Union, absolute liberty in religious concerns is declared by the constitution to be a natural and inalienable right; no one can be disturbed or interfered with on account of his religious views. The law does not acknowledge any dominant sect. All the ministers of the different communions have equal right to the protection of the government, and receive their salaries from their parishioners, whose good will they are obliged to acquire, and they only obtain it by setting a virtuous example. Thus their manners are generally pure, marriages common, and celibacy but little esteemed. It is rare in the interior towns to find a bachelor over thirty years old. The girls marry so young, that it is not uncommon to see the mother and daughter both nursing their infants at the same time. We may also readily find the grandfather, father and son, at work together in the fields.

Many other particulars remained to be learned relative to New Hampshire, but the general having promised to make a second visit in the ensuing spring, I shall profit thereby to collect the information I could not procure during so short a stay.

We left Portsmouth for Boston, as already stated, at midnight and arrived there at two o’clock; we set out again at four, through Lexington, Lancaster, Worcester, Tolland, and Hartford. In each of these places, Lafayette received from all the citizens evidences of regard, which vividly affected him, but to which he had scarce time to respond, so rapid was our journey. We slept the first night at the charming country house of Mr. Wilder, near Boston, whose kind hospitality will never be effaced from our memory. On the second, we stopped at Stafford, after having been present at the brilliant festivities of Worcester, and on the fourth day, at 10 A.M. we arrived at Hartford, a pretty and very commercial town, situated upon the west bank of the Connecticut river, fifty miles from its source. The population of Hartford is 4726 souls, and it divides with New Haven the advantage of being the seat of government of the state of Connecticut.

Lafayette entered Hartford preceded by a numerous escort of troops, and welcomed by the whole population with the most lively demonstrations of veneration and love. The municipal body came to meet him, and the mayor delivered an address. He was then conducted with great pomp to the State House where he was received by Governor Wolcott, who in receiving him, addressed him in the name of the state.

After his discourse, to which Lafayette made an affectionate reply, numerous introductions of all the persons who could come into the hall, took place. The assembly could scarcely retain their emotion, when old general Wadsworth entered, bearing the epaulettes and scarf worn by Lafayette at the battle of Brandywine, where he was wounded. The scarf still retained traces of his blood. These epaulettes and scarf were given to General Swift after the peace, and his family had preserved them carefully, in memory of him who wore them, and the cause he defended.

At the moment we left the state house, he found himself in the midst of eight hundred children from the public schools, who presented him with a gold medal on which was inscribed, “The Children of Hartford to Lafayette, September 4, 1824.”

After passing through several streets strewn with flowers, we arrived at the institution for the deaf and dumb. About sixty of these young unfortunates arranged in a line, awaited in the profound and eternal silence which the lamentable caprice of nature had imposed on them, for the arrival of Lafayette. As soon as they saw him, they pointed out to him, while placing their hands on their hearts, a legend containing these words, “What the nation expresses we feel.” At their head was their teacher Mr. , pupil of the Abbe Sicard and of Massieu.

Lafayette experienced lively pleasure in seeing this young Frenchman, whose love of liberty and of humanity had brought him to this country, where he had rendered the most important services.

When General Lafayette had reviewed the troops, under command of Colonel Johnson, and taken leave of the magistrates and inhabitants of Hartford, he was conducted on board of the steam-boat Oliver Ellsworth, by a detachment of an hundred revolutionary veterans, preceded by the military band. After taking leave of his ancient companions in arms, the boat pushed off, and we began to descend the Connecticut. This river which arises between lower Canada and New Hampshire, a little above the 45th degree parallel of latitude, serves as a boundary between this state and that of Vermont, and traverses the states of Massachusetts and Connecticut from north to south. Its course is about three hundred miles long. Although much obstructed by rocks, it is navigable by batteaux almost to its source, and large vessels can ascend it nearly fifty miles. During its course, it receives a large number of tributaries, and empties into Long-Island sound about thirty miles east of New Haven. Its banks are very delightful and fertile, though we had but little time to enjoy the sight. Soon after leaving Hartford, our boat stopped in front of Middletown, a beautiful little manufacturing town situated upon the right bank of the river. The sound of cannon and the acclamations of the crowd that thronged the bank, apprised Lafayette of the impatience with which he was expected by the people of Middletown. He hastened on shore to express his satisfaction, and it was not until seven in the evening that he returned on board the Oliver Ellsworth; so that night soon came on and hid from our view the beautiful dwellings which adorn both banks of the Connecticut. However we could form some idea of their number by the lights which appeared on the right and left, glittering like stars amid the obscurity.

At day-break we emerged from the river into Long-Island sound, commonly called the East River. We had Long-Island on our left, and the state of New York on our right.—Whichever way we turned, we beheld beautiful country houses or farms, the mere aspect of which announced comfort and abundance. Although the sun was but just risen when I went on deck, I perceived a large number of ladies at their windows, waiting for the vessel which they knew was to bring back Lafayette, to New York. As soon as our flag was perceived, it was saluted by the most animated exclamations and signs of the warmest affection.

While breathing the fresh morning air, always more so in the vicinity of the sea, and contemplating with pleasure, the delightful harmony of a beautiful prospect, and a rich and free industry, I was accosted by one of our travelling companions, an old revolutionary soldier, who came with us from Hartford, who said he could not sleep during the night, so much was he excited by the pleasure of seeing his general again. I asked him for some account of the most remarkable dwellings, which were in view, and he replied with much kindness, and in a way that led me to believe, that he was familiar with the navigation of the sound. When asked if he had occasionally visited Long-Island, he replied, “Oh yes, certainly, and it is long since the first time; it was in 1776, and without the courage and skill of our worthy General Washington, it is probable that this first visit to Long-Island would have also been my last, and my bones would now rest in peace. It would have been a pity, however, as I should have missed the happiness I yesterday enjoyed in shaking hands with one who has done so much for the independence of my country,” and a tear of gratitude and tenderness fell from his eyes. After some moments of silence, emboldened by his frank and cordial manners, I inquired in what manner his first visit occurred, with which so many other recollections appeared to be connected. He replied, by taking me by the arm, and turning round towards Long-Island, which like a moving panorama, was swiftly passing before our eyes, “in 1776, I was no longer a child, as my bald head and white hairs may show you, and served in the continental army; our regiment made part of the forces destined to defend Long-Island. On the 7th of August, the English and Hessians to the number of about 24,000, protected by the guns of their ships, landed upon the island. We had not more than ten thousand troops, and were in such a position that the greater part of these could not be brought into action. The action was hot and our resistance obstinate, although the enemy had every advantage over us in numbers, discipline and experience.

“The attack of the English was conducted with intelligence and bravery, but I dare say, if we were less skillful, our courage was not undervalued by our adversaries. In fact, we were soon surrounded, some were taken and the rest dispersed, leaving the victory in the hands of the enemy together with our two generals, Sullivan and Sterling. We lost from 1000 to 1200 men, and the English about as many.

“After this unfortunate engagement, we entrenched our lines at Brooklyn, where we were not in safety; fatigued and discouraged by our defeat, having in front of us, an enemy of superior force, rendered daring by success, and knowing that a numerous squadron was preparing to cut off our retreat by entering the East river, we felt clearly, that we could not escape complete destruction unless by the aid of Providence, and the prudence of our commander-in-chief; Washington resolved to withdraw us from this dangerous position. Profiting by the darkness of the night, he crossed the East river in person on the 29th of August, and found us in our lines. His presence re-animated our hopes and courage; we relied with confidence on his direction, and our retreat was effected with an address, which alone would have sufficed to rank him among the best generals. It is true that under these circumstances, Providence vouchsafed us a striking evidence of its protection. A thick fog enveloped Long-Island during the whole night; so that our movements were completely concealed from the enemy, although the atmosphere on the New York side was brilliantly clear. We passed so near to the enemy, that we could distinctly hear the labourers at work, preparing for the attack of next morning. Before day-break, our 9000 men, with their baggage, magazines, horses and munitions of war, had crossed the river, where it is more than a mile wide, and without losing a single man. An hour after our arrival at New York, the fog dispersed as if by enchantment, and permitted us to see the English entering our lines with defiance, where not a single man was to be found.”

During this recital of the old soldier, almost all our travelling companions were collected on deck, grouped around us, and the conversation soon became general. A great deal was said of Long-Island, of the elegance and richness of its country seats where the merchants of New York go to seek repose and fresh air during the protracted heats of summer. I learned that this isle, anciently called Matawack,10 by the Indians, its ancient inhabitants, is 140 miles long, and its width varies from one to five miles. It is the largest island existing between Cape Florida and Cape Sable. The coast, which is washed by the Atlantic ocean, is flat, sandy and indented by various bays. The greatest part of its surface is level. The soil is composed of a blackish, spongy earth, upon a basis of sand which absorbs the rain and is little favorable to vegetation. Dr. Mitchill, the learned translator of Cuvier’s theory of the earth, has remarked that a bed of sea sand extends the whole length of the island at the depth of from 30 to 50 feet, containing clam and oyster shells, and that pieces of wood have also been found in digging wells. A range of hills which traverse the island from New Utrecht in the west, to the environs of South-hole in the east, is elevated at Harbour hill more than 319 feet above the level of the sea. Notwithstanding the unfavorable character of the soil, the finest orchard of fruit trees is found on Long-Island, perhaps in all America. It is cultivated by Mr. Prince, a skilful gardener and orchardist, whose enlightened zeal renders great services to his country, and who will without doubt, become very serviceable to Europe, as his correspondence is already much sought after.

It was about noon when we arrived at New York, General Lafayette hoped to re-enter the city quietly, but the streamers and flags of the Oliver Ellsworth betrayed his return; and the Franklin ship of the line which was at anchor, fired a salute of thirteen guns. This salute was a signal to the citizens of New York, and when we landed at Fulton wharf we found the population collected, as on the first day of our arrival, who accompanied us with acclamations to the City hotel, where we found our lodgings as we had left them.