Читать книгу Lafayette in America in 1824 and 1825 (Vol. 1&2) - Auguste Levasseur - Страница 12

Table of Contents

Voyage upon the Hudson: Treason of Arnold: Military School at West Point: Newburgh: Poughkeepsie: Clermont: Catskill: Hudson: Albany: Troy: Return to New York.

The steam-boat James Kent, in which we were embarked, had been prepared for this trip with the greatest care by the committee appointed by the city of New York to accompany general Lafayette; but as it had not been foreseen that so many ladies designed to be of the party, it happened that the greater part of the men were obliged to sleep upon deck, although the steam-boat contained more than eighty beds. For ourselves we in vain sought repose in a very pretty state-room, which we occupied in common with general Lewis and colonel Fish. The sound of cannon which every few minutes announced our passage by some village, and the noise of our crew, who were endeavouring to push the boat off an oyster bank, upon which she had grounded during the darkness, prevented us from sleeping; at the first dawn of day, we went upon deck to enjoy the view of the majestic banks of the Hudson. In fact, nothing can be more imposing than the aspect of these high mountains, which, covered with wood, or displaying their naked rocks, border the river almost throughout its length. On entering, for the first time, into the pass of the highlands, one feels almost disposed to share the superstitious terror of the Indians, and one understands how that phantoms and their sinister sighings have for a long time exercised their empire, even upon the first Europeans who inhabited these situations, where nature only shows herself under strange forms, and in sombre colours. To the man who delights in the recollection of the robberies of the middle ages, and loves to contemplate the ruins of old Donjon’s ancient refuges of fierce feudalities, nothing without doubt is comparable to the banks of the Rhine; but for one who prefers nature still virgin and wild, there is nothing so beautiful as the banks of the Hudson. This river has its source in the highest country between lakes Ontario and Champlain, and divides the state of New York from north to south for the length of 250 miles: it is navigable for sloops of 24 tons, as far as Albany, 160 miles from its mouth, and larger vessels can ascend as far as the village of Hudson, at the distance of 132 miles from New York. It would be difficult, I believe, to enumerate the boats of all sorts and sizes which carry on the trade between Albany and New York; the river is continually covered with them, and you can rarely sail for a quarter of an hour without meeting with a long succession of them. The tide rises a few miles above Albany, where it is twelve hours later than at New York. The water is salt for fifty miles above Albany, where the rise of the tide is commonly one foot. At Pellpel’s islands, north of the highlands, it is about four feet, and at Kinderhook, situated twenty-two miles south of Albany, three feet.

Notwithstanding the current, and contrary movement of the tide, we advanced ten miles an hour. A group of old revolutionary soldiers gathered around Lafayette on the deck, and were pleased to repeat the details of events, which were awakened in their minds by every point on the banks. We had passed Tarrytown, and at the view of this modest village, the old soldier-citizens pronounced with respect the names of the three militia men, John Paulding, David Williams, and Isaac Van Wert, who have immortalized themselves as much by their noble disinterestedness, as for the service they rendered to their country and liberty in arresting Major André. Stony Point and fort Lafayette, where Washington, by the judicious choice of a good position, had broken the communications of the English army, were far behind us, and our captain informed us we should soon see West Point, when I remarked that the regards of our travelling companions were sadly turned towards a house which stood alone, not far from the bank, to which the foot of the mountain was gently inclined. I soon heard the word traitor coupled with the name of Arnold; and this house, which excited so much indignation, was actually the one in which the infamous Arnold trafficked for the blood of his companions in arms, and for the subjugation of his country. The history of Arnold teaches a great lesson; it proves once more, the importance, in a well organized government, of not trusting offices to any but men of acknowledged morality. In a captain as in a magistrate, courage or talent without probity are dangerous qualities, which cannot be employed without exposure to great risks.

Arnold was born in Connecticut, but nature appears to have denied him the virtues which so strongly characterize the inhabitants of that state; however, from the commencement he embraced the sacred cause of his country with ardour. His military talent, courage in battle, resignation and patience under fatigues and privations, and especially his brilliant services during the Canadian expedition, had gained him great reputation in the army, and the confidence of Congress, which did not think it too high a recompence to raise him to the rank of a major general. He was wounded before Quebec, and was not yet entirely recovered from his wounds, when the city of Philadelphia was entrusted to him, after it was evacuated by the British in 1778.

Unfortunately, Arnold, along with the bravery he had shown before the enemy, had nothing of that firmness of principle, and rectitude of judgment, which alone could have enabled him to resist the numerous seductions which necessarily surrounded him in the brilliant situation he now held. Urged on by pride and a ridiculous vanity, and forgetting his want of the resources of a large personal fortune, he launched into all the unnecessary expenses of a sumptuous table and luxurious train. He soon contracted debts beyond his revenue; in the hope of liquidating which he entered into speculations which his official duties forbade, and which had most disastrous results. Pushed by the demands of his creditors, he sought relief by embezzlement of public money; but the investigation of a committee of Congress discovered a considerable deficit in his accounts, many citizens of Philadelphia complained of his numerous exactions, and the government of Pennsylvania accused him of still more grievous offences. Finally, in the month of June 1778, Congress arrested and tried him by a court martial, which found him guilty, and condemned him to be reprimanded by the commander in chief. This sentence was approved by Congress, and carried into effect in the beginning of 1779. Furious at being thus struck at the same time by the law and public opinion, Arnold made bitter complaints against what he called the ingratitude of his fellow-citizens, and swore to be revenged.

Great importance was at that time attached to the fortress of West Point, for the preservation of which the American army had manœuvred a long time, and frequently fought. This position was regarded as the key of communication between the eastern and southern states. In fact, its situation upon the brow of one of the highest mountains on the right bank of the Hudson, and its double row of batteries and redoubts, planned by the most skilful engineers, made an excellent defensive post, the occupation of which gave great influence over the state of New York. Arnold was not ignorant of this, and cast his eyes upon this important point to wreak his vengeance. By force of intrigue and importunities, he obtained the command of West Point, at the moment he wrote to the English colonel, Robinson, that he abjured his revolutionary principles, and sincerely desired to regain the esteem of the king, by a striking proof of his penitence. This letter opened between him and sir Henry Clinton an active correspondence conducted with great secrecy. The principal object of this correspondence was to decide upon the means of throwing the fortress of West Point as speedily as possible into the hands of the English. To conduct this intrigue with greater certainty, the English general selected one of his aids, major André, a young man equally distinguished by his amiable qualities and military talents, who had already acquired an excellent reputation among his companions in arms. A sloop of war named the Vulture, carried up the Hudson as far as the King’s ferry, twelve miles below West Point: from this place his communications with Arnold became more frequent and easy, but for a fuller understanding, it was indispensable that they should have an interview, which Arnold insisted upon: André at first refused, either because he felt a repugnance at finding himself in contact with a traitor, or because he deemed it unworthy of a loyal officer to penetrate an enemy’s lines under a name and dress not his own. However, urged by a desire of answering the confidence of his general, he finally accepted the rendezvous, which had been proposed for the night at the house of one Joshua Smith, who was reputed to belong secretly to the English party. Smith himself came in search of major André during the night of the 21st of September, and brought him on shore in a boat rowed by his own servants. André was received by Arnold on the bank, and conducted to the house of Smith, where he remained concealed until the next night. The conference being terminated, and the plans definitively settled, André wished to profit by the darkness of the night to retire; but on coming to the shore, he found that the Vulture had been obliged to haul off, to avoid the fire of a battery with which she was threatened; the boatmen who had brought him on shore, refused to carry him to the sloop of war, and he was obliged to decide upon returning to New York by land. To hasten his march, Smith furnished him with a horse, and to render it secure, Arnold gave him a passport, under the name of John Anderson, charged with public service. This passport served him to get successfully through the American lines, and arrive at Crompond, where Smith, who had accompanied him, took leave, after giving him directions for continuing his journey. He was approaching the English lines near Tarrytown, when suddenly a militia man, who was patrolling between the two armies with two others, his comrades, rushed from behind a bush, and seized his horse by the bridle. This sudden arrest deprived André of his wonted presence of mind, and instead of presenting his passport, he asked the militia men, “to which side do you belong?” “to below,” was the reply; (the English army which occupied New York was thus designated;) “and so do I,” imprudently answered André. Scarcely had he uttered this fatal avowal, when the arrival of the two other militia men revealed to him his error and danger. He thought to remedy the one and escape the other, by offering to his captors a purse full of gold, his very valuable watch, and by promising them, if they would let him go, great wealth, and the protection of the English government. The more brilliant the rewards he promised, the more were the three militia men persuaded that his arrest would be serviceable to the cause of independence, and they rejected his offers with disdain, declaring that though they were very poor, all the gold upon earth would not tempt them to forego their duty, and they immediately commenced a rigorous search of their unfortunate prisoner, to discover if he conveyed any papers capable of explaining his real character. Their suspicions were confirmed by finding in his boots exact plans of the approaches and defences of West Point, and many other details in Arnold’s hand writing, confirmed their suspicions: they conveyed him to lieutenant colonel Jamieson, who commanded the outposts. André, without doubt, intending to let Arnold know that he must take care of his own safety, demanded that Arnold should be immediately informed of the arrest of his officer Anderson, on the way to New York. On the receipt of this news the traitor fled, and sought the recompence of his infamy in the ranks of the British army.

Major André declared himself a British officer as soon as he thought Arnold was in safety. The immediate return of general Washington, hastened the formation of a court martial, of which general Greene was president, and general Lafayette and Baron Steuben, were among the members. André appeared before this tribunal under the terrible accusation of being a spy. His judges treated him with great deference and lenity, and he was informed from the beginning of his trial, that he need not answer any question which could wound his conscience. But the young unfortunate, more jealous of his honour than of his life, freely avowed his projects, and exposed his conduct without concealment, taking no other pains than to exculpate those who had aided his enterprise. His courage deeply affected his judges, who could scarcely conceal their emotion in signing his condemnation. For himself he awaited his fate with resignation. His last moments were worthy of his noble character; the following details of which are given by an eye-witness, Dr. Thacher.14

Extract from Thacher’s Journal.

“October 2d.—Major André is no more among the living. I have just witnessed his exit. It was a tragical scene of the deepest interest. During his confinement and trial, he exhibited those proud and elevated sensibilities which designate greatness and dignity of mind. Not a murmur nor a sigh ever escaped him, and the civilities and attentions bestowed on him were politely acknowledged. Having left a mother and two sisters in England, he was heard to mention them in terms of the tenderest affection, and in his letter to Sir Henry Clinton, he recommends them to his particular attention.

“The principal guard officer who was constantly in the room with the prisoner, relates that when the hour of his execution was announced to him in the morning, he received it without emotion, and while all present were affected with silent gloom, he retained a firm countenance, with calmness and composure of mind. Observing his servant enter the room in tears, he exclaimed, “leave me till you can show yourself more manly.” His breakfast being sent to him from the table of general Washington, which had been done every day of his confinement, he partook of it as usual, and having shaved and dressed himself, he placed his hat on the table and cheerfully said to the guard officers, “I am ready at any moment, gentlemen, to wait on you.” The fatal hour having arrived, a large detachment of troops was paraded, and an immense concourse of people assembled; almost all our general and field officers, excepting his excellency and his staff, were present on horseback; melancholy and gloom pervaded all ranks, and the scene was affectingly awful. I was so near during the solemn march to the fatal spot, as to observe every movement, and to participate in every emotion which the melancholy scene was calculated to produce. Major André walked from the stone house, in which he had been confined, between two of our subaltern officers, arm-in-arm; the eyes of the immense multitude were fixed on him, who, rising superior to the fears of death, appeared as if conscious of the dignified conduct he displayed. He betrayed no want of fortitude, but retained a complacent smile on his countenance, and politely bowed to several gentlemen whom he knew, which was respectfully returned. It was his earnest desire to be shot, as being the mode of death most conformable to the feelings of a military man, and he had indulged the hope that his request would be granted. At the moment therefore, when suddenly he came in view of the gallows, he involuntarily started backwards, and made a pause. “Why this emotion, sir,” said an officer by his side. Instantly recovering his composure, he said, “I am reconciled to my death, but I detest the mode.” While waiting and standing near the gallows, I observed some degree of trepidation; placing his foot on a stone, and rolling it over and choking in his throat as if attempting to swallow. So soon, however, as he perceived that things were in readiness, he stepped quickly into the wagon, and at this moment he appeared to shrink, but instantly elevating his head with firmness, he said, “It will be but a momentary pang,” and taking from his pocket, two white handkerchiefs, the provost marshal with one loosely pinioned his arms, and with the other, the prisoner, after taking off his hat and stock, bandaged his own eyes with perfect firmness, which melted the hearts and moistened the cheeks, not only of his servant but of the throng of spectators. The rope being appended to the gallows, he slipped the noose over his head, and adjusted it to his neck, without the assistance of the awkward executioner. Colonel Scammel now informed him that he had an opportunity to speak, if he desired it; he raised the handkerchief from his eyes and said, “I pray you to bear me witness that I meet my fate like a brave man.” The wagon being now removed from under him, he was suspended and immediately expired; it proved indeed, “but a momentary pang.” He was dressed in his royal regimentals and boots, and his remains in the same dress, were placed in an ordinary coffin, and interred at the foot of the gallows. Thus died in the bloom of life, the accomplished major André, the pride of the royal army, and the valued friend of Sir Henry Clinton.” [Thacher’s Military Journal, 1780, p. 272, &c.]

Some time after Arnold fled from West Point, and when he had already signalized himself by the ferocity with which he tore the bosom of his country by all the horrors of war, an American grenadier was brought into his presence who had been taken prisoner in a skirmish. Arnold recognized him as having served under his orders at West Point, and interrogated him upon the impression his flight had produced upon the garrison. The bold grenadier answered him with frankness, and did not in the least disguise the general indignation. “What would they have done, had they taken me?” “We should have buried your leg wounded before Quebec with honour, and have hung the rest of your body upon the gibbet.”

While the different groups upon our deck still execrated the memory of Arnold, and pitied the unfortunate André, the thunder of cannon a thousand times repeated by the echoes of Hudson announced our arrival at West Point. We were rapidly carried on shore in the boats. General Lafayette was received by major Thayer, commandant of the establishment, and by generals Brown and Scott, accompanied by their staff. Lafayette was placed in an open carriage, accompanied by the widow of Colonel Hamilton, and followed by a long column of ladies who had come with Mrs. H., and a numerous population which had collected to receive him: they slowly ascended the road which conducted them to the military academy. During this march, two pieces of cannon placed on the summit of a rock far above our heads, kept up an incessant roaring. When we reached the plain upon which the buildings of the institution stand, we found the cadets drawn up in line. The general immediately passed them in review, and they manœuvred before him. After their evolutions were completed, they performed the honours of the entertainment they had prepared for him, with the most kind solicitude.

West Point appears to me to be well chosen for a military school. It is upon a very beautiful plain, elevated upon the right bank of the Hudson, and crowned by other high mountains, upon the summit of which, the ruins of old Fort Putnam may still be perceived. Its separation from the large cities, the silence of the forest, and the aspect of nature at once so imposing and beautiful, all appear to invite to meditation and study.

The pupils are two hundred in number: vacant places are at the disposal of the President of the United States. To be admitted, the candidate must not be younger than fourteen, nor older than twenty-one; must know how to read, write and cypher, and must sign with his parent or guardian an engagement to serve during five years, unless dismissed previous to the expiration of that time. The cadets are taught natural and experimental philosophy, mathematics, chemistry and mineralogy, drawing, fortification, strategy, fencing, and the French language. All the expenses of the institution are paid out of the national treasury. Every cadet receives a pay of six dollars a month, and two rations a day. They are formed into companies, and all do duty as privates or sub-officers, and live in camp during three months of the year in order to learn camp duty. At the conclusion of their term they are commissioned in the different corps of the army when vacancies occur; but most of them return again to civil life. Government rarely refuses them this privilege when it is asked, because its object is not so much to have a nursery of soldiers in this establishment, as to form citizens capable of filling, when necessary, the first offices in the militia service, which is thus annually enriched by a number of instructed young officers.

We had the pleasure of finding among the professors, three of our countrymen, Messrs. Berard, Ducommun and Gimbrede, who took great pleasure in answering our inquiries, and who appeared to stand high in the estimation of the officers and pupils of the institution.

At six P. M., we returned to the shore to embark. A great number of our travelling companions, but particularly the ladies finding it impossible to remain longer so much crowded together in the James Kent, left us to go on board another steam-boat which was returning to New York, and we continued on our journey with the kind and amiable members of the New York committee appointed to accompany the general.

At 7 o’clock we arrived at Newburgh; we should have arrived there at 3 o’clock, but for our accident upon the oyster bank, and thirty thousand persons waited on the shore with the greatest impatience for the arrival of the Nation’s Guest. The tables had been set from the morning. In fact it was easy to perceive this, for our reception here was more tumultuous than any we had yet witnessed. But even this fermentation furnished us with an opportunity to judge of the influence of the magistrates over the people, who even in moments of excitement never lose that respect which citizens owe the laws to which they have freely consented. After a rapid passage by torch light through the streets of Newburgh, in an open carriage, we stopped at the Orange hotel, where we were to dine with the principal inhabitants. While we were at table, a report was spread that general Lafayette was to leave the town immediately; and a vast concourse of people gathered in front of the hotel, and a thousand confused voices cried out that it was shameful thus to snatch from the citizens of Newburgh, the friend they had so long and so ardently desired; that the darkness which covered his arrival had not allowed any one to see him; that they should have the chagrin of being unable to render him the homage with which they had prepared to receive him; and in short, that they would not let him go until after sun-rise the next day, in order that he might bestow his benediction upon the children of Newburgh. To the noise of these clamours soon was added that of the struggle between the crowd and the guard stationed at the door of the hotel. During some moments the mayor of the town who was at table with us, paid but little attention to what was going on in the street, when he was informed that the disorder might become serious, that the militia and police officers began to grow fatigued with their resistance, the mayor rose, took general Lafayette by the hand and preceded by two torches, went out into a balcony which overlooked the street. At the sight of Lafayette the shouts and plaudits increased from all quarters, when the mayor made a sign for silence, which was immediately established. He then addressed the people:—“Gentlemen! (for in America the magistrates always speak politely to the people,) do you wish to distress the Nation’s Guest?” “No! no! no!” “Do you wish that Lafayette should be deprived of his liberty, in a country indebted to him for its freedom?” “No! no! no!” “Then listen to what I am about to say, and do not force me to call upon the law to restore order.” The silence then became profound. “Your friend is expected at Albany, he is engaged to be there to-morrow, before evening; he has already been delayed for three hours by an unexpected accident; if you retain him here until to-morrow, you will deprive him of the pleasure of visiting all the other towns which expect him upon his passage, and you will make him break all his engagements; do you wish to give him this pain?” “No! no! no!” and the air rung with shouts and huzzas. Lafayette then addressed a few words of thanks to the crowd, which were received with the greatest enthusiasm. The people, however, became silent, but still remained in the street though without disturbing the door of the hotel. When Lafayette came down, some citizens advanced and said it depended upon him entirely to console the inhabitants of Newburgh, and it would not cost him more than the delay of a quarter of an hour—“our wives and children are collected close by in a hall which was prepared for your reception; come for an instant that they may see you, and we shall all be happy.” It was impossible to resist so touching an appeal. We entered this hall filled with ladies, and girls dressed for a ball; they had already ceased to hope that they should see Lafayette, and his presence caused them an agreeable surprise. In the fulness of their joy they all crowded near him, and showered over him the wreathes and flowers with which they were adorned. In leaving this hall we found the men all standing in a double row along the way which led to the shore, and the general could not reach the steam-boat without receiving the most endearing expressions of the esteem of these excellent people, who in spite of his assurances, still feared that they had caused him inconvenience. He bade farewell to the authorities of Newburgh on board of the boat, and at a signal given by our captain, we recommenced our voyage in spite of the darkness.

The rising sun found us in the vicinity of Poughkeepsie, where it was impossible for the general to refuse landing. The wharves and shore were crowded with soldiers, citizens, and even a great number of ladies, who had all night waited for the arrival of Lafayette.

Poughkeepsie like all the towns bordering upon the Hudson is both manufacturing and commercial; the population therefore is rapidly increasing. In 1820 it was 3400 souls, at present it amounts to nearly 5000.

It was at the dwelling of George Clinton in Poughkeepsie, that Washington, Hamilton, Chancellor Livingston and Mr. Jay, used to meet to discuss the constitution adopted by the United States. The general was eloquently reminded of this circumstance by colonel Livingston, who was appointed to address him in the name of his fellow citizens.

In continuing our voyage we visited the family of the ancient governor Lewis, who reside in a beautiful dwelling on the right side of the river, and at four o’clock we arrived at Clermont, where we landed in front of the elegant residence of Mr. Robert Livingston, the former residence of chancellor Livingston. The entertainments prepared for us by the citizens of the environs, and the Livingston family, detained us till the next morning.

Scarcely had we left Clermont when we came in sight of the beautiful Catskill mountain, which arising at some miles from the river, finely terminates the horizon by its beautiful brown mass which is amphitheatrically developed, in the centre of which shows forth the white house of the pine garden situated 250 feet above the level of the Hudson. This house is an object of curiosity to the traveller, and a place of promenade for the neighbouring inhabitants.

The masses of soldiers and citizens which covered a long pier projecting into the river, by their acclamations informed general Lafayette that the inhabitants of Catskill also expected a visit from the national guest. We remained a few minutes only with this population, during which the general had the satisfaction of conversing with some of his former revolutionary companions, among whom he recognized one named Foster, who had been particularly attached to his service, when he was wounded at the battle of Brandywine.

To land at the little town of Hudson, we had to cross the river somewhat obliquely; at the port, which is very commercial, we were received by the authorities and people, at the head of whom was presented a detachment of about 80 revolutionary soldiers. One of them advanced from the ranks and showed him a sword he had received from Lafayette at Rhode Island. “After my death it will change owners,” said he, “but its destination shall never be changed, it shall always serve in defence of liberty.”

Triumphal arches had been erected, a public entertainment prepared, and the ladies were ready for dancing, but we had to forego all these festivities, in order to arrive at Albany the same day, where the general was expected with impatience. The inhabitants of Hudson perfectly comprehended his situation, and had the kindness to detain him but for a very short time.

The wealth of Hudson is daily increased by its commerce and manufactures. The population which in 1820 was not quite 3000 souls, at present amounts to 5000. The town is regular and well built; it arises in an amphitheatre about an hundred feet above the level of the river. The largest commercial vessels may lie at its wharves. Its environs are strongly marked with an agreeable aspect, and are well cultivated. Hudson was founded in 1784, and still contains many descendants of the Hollanders who came over in 1636.

In spite of the power of our steam engine, which enabled us to ascend the river at the rate of six miles an hour, it was five o’clock P. M. before we reached Overslaugh a small town situated upon the left bank of the river, a short distance from Albany. Here we were obliged to suspend our voyage, as the steam-boat drew too much water. We landed, and were immediately placed in an elegant barouche surrounded by an escort of dragoons, commanded by general Van Rensellaer and colonel Cooper, and in a few minutes we arrived at Greenbush, another village, in the centre of which we found a triumphal arch, beneath which some refreshments were presented, while the members of the corporation addressed the general, who answered them with that facility and appropriateness, which at least four or five times a day, caused the surprise and admiration of those who heard him.

It was not until night that we arrived in front of Albany, upon the banks of the river, which it was necessary we should cross to enter the city, which stands upon the right bank. A large team-boat called “Horses Back,” received both our carriages at the same time, drawn by four horses each, about thirty of the light-horsemen of the escort, and more than a hundred foot passengers, and bore us quickly to the other shore, which rung with the acclamations of the multitude, and the incessant thunder of artillery. The situation in which we were placed was grand and majestic; the obscurity of the night rendered it still more imposing; but it was not without its dangers. Every discharge of cannon, by its report and sudden light, startled the mettled horses which surrounded us, and which had no other barrier before them than a slight chain, that could not have hindered them from leaping into the river, if they had not been held by powerful men. George Lafayette’s filial solicitude for his father, caused him to quit the carriage, and take upon himself the securing of the horses which drew the general. At the moment of our landing the multitude redoubled their cries of joy; the escort and carriages sprung rapidly on shore, amidst so thick a crowd, that it is difficult to conceive how so many people, whom the enthusiasm of gratitude had urged upon the very wheels of Lafayette’s carriage, could escape uninjured. At the entrance of the suburb a procession was formed in order; a band of musicians led the march, and we went to the capitol through the principal streets, all of which were rendered light by innumerable illuminations, and high pyramids of blazing wood. At the entrance of the street leading to the capitol, was an arch of triumph, upon which was perched a large living eagle, which flapped its wings as the general passed, as if to render him homage.

We entered the senate chamber of the capitol. The galleries were filled with a great number of ladies. The municipality were assembled there. The general was received and addressed by the mayor, who eloquently expressed the gratitude of the United States, and especially of the city of Albany, “those who have shared with you the toils of our revolution, and who still live,” said he, “hail you as a friend and brother. The generation which has arisen since you quitted these shores, is animated with the same sentiments, and those which shall be born in future ages, will celebrate in you the benefactor of America, the hero of liberty. In each of the hearts which beat around you, you hold the place of friendship, and your eulogy is in all mouths.”

In his reply Lafayette could not avoid expressing his astonishment at the numerous changes which had taken place in the aspect of every thing at present offered to his view. “It is not a half century, since the town, then ancient, it is true, but still very small, served me for head quarters, upon the frontier of a vast wilderness. I received here, as commandant of the northern departments, the renunciation of the royal power and the acknowledgement of the more legitimate sovereignty of the people of the United States. At present I find Albany a rich and powerful city, the central seat of government of the state of New York, and the surrounding wilds changed into fertile and well cultivated plains. The present generation is already distinguished by two glorious wars, and still more by its sincere attachment to the institutions whose excellence assures it an incontestible superiority over the haughty power, which wished to arrogate over it the right of control.”

From the senate chamber we went to the apartments of governor Yates, who, surrounded by his staff, received the general with great cordiality and addressed him in the name of the state.

In leaving the governor, the general was conducted to the principal balcony of the capitol to be presented to the assembled people. At the moment he advanced between the two central columns of the balcony, an eagle descended and placed a crown of laurels and evergreens upon his head. This was loudly applauded by the numerous spectators.

Before going to the hotel, which had been prepared for our reception, the general wished to visit one of his old companions in arms, Mr. Matthew Gregory, who, in the assault at Yorktown, was one of the first to mount the trenches, with him and Hamilton. We found there a numerous company, composed of judges of the supreme court, the bar and principal officers of the state.

This day of emotions and fatigues, under which a man less robust than Lafayette must have sunk, was terminated by a supper in which toasts were drank to the health of the “Nation’s Guest,” and “to the liberty and sovereignty of the people,” and by a brilliant ball, which we left at midnight in order to seek a little rest.

Albany was founded in 1612, by a colony from Holland, and next to Jamestown in Virginia, is the most ancient settlement in the United States. Situated on the right bank of the Hudson, 150 miles from New York, this city does not present a pleasing aspect: the ground is every where unequal: the streets, it is true, are wide and regular, but the architecture of the houses is in bad taste and reminds one strongly of the old towns in Germany. With the exception of the capitol there is no building which has a monumental aspect; this building produces a very good effect, being situated upon an eminence which terminates a fine street called State street. This edifice which serves for the senate, house of representatives, the courts of justice, the society of arts, of agriculture, and also contains the library, is constructed of granite from the banks of the Hudson, and the columns, as well as all the exterior ornaments are in fine white marble from the quarries of Massachusetts. The principal façade is of the Ionic order. Most of the halls are decorated and furnished with a luxury which one at first admires, but cannot in the end avoid blaming, when it is known that it has brought the corporation into debts which necessarily fall upon the people. The entire expense of the building amounted to 120,000 dollars, of which at least 34,000 have been paid by the city.

The town house, academy, Lancastrian school, arsenal, prison, and some other buildings of public utility are properly and commodiously built of brick.

The city is governed by a corporation composed of a mayor, recorder, and ten aldermen, and ten assistant aldermen, all appointed by the people. To simplify the administration and facilitate the superintendence of the police, it is divided into five sections or wards. The watchmen are especially charged to guard against the dangers of fire, and an excellent organization of firemen, secure prompt assistance in cases of conflagration. These precautions are rendered particularly necessary by the presence of numerous magazines of oil and spirits, imprudently established in the heart of the city.

The police regulations are enforced with a rigidity which allows no class of citizens to think of infringing them with impunity. Among a multitude of examples related to me, the following is very remarkable. It is expressly forbidden to gallop through the streets. A short time since, the mayor was at his country seat, not far from the city. Suddenly the ringing of bells and even the sight of the flames informed him that a fire had broken out; he mounted his horse and set out for town, through which he gallopped to the fire; alighted, and placed himself at the head of the firemen. In a few instants his example and prudent advice, contributed to remove the danger, and he quietly returned to his dwelling. The next morning he received a summons to appear before a justice of the peace, who fined him for breaking the ordinance which forbids gallopping through the streets. The mayor did not in any way attempt to justify his fault by the motive that had caused him to commit it, and submitted without murmuring to the award, which he acknowleged to be just. This submission to the law was a good example, and on going out of the magistrate’s office, he was met by a numerous deputation of citizens, who presented him with the thanks of the public for the eminent services he had rendered the preceding evening, in courageously exposing himself to save the property of his fellow citizens.

The annual expenses of the city amount to about 45,000 dollars; its revenues in 1824 were valued at 49,000, but its debt amounted to more than two hundred and fifty thousand dollars. This debt which necessarily depreciates the value of property situated in Albany, was incurred by the prodigality of former administrations. It is thought that it will speedily be extinguished by a sinking fund of a hundred thousand dollars, and especially by the resources which are daily presented by the constantly increasing prosperity of commerce.

As a commercial place, Albany is one of the most considerable cities in the union. Ever since its foundation it has been the place of deposit for all the western produce; at present the facility of communication with lake Erie by means of the Grand canal gives a still greater increase to its commercial preponderance.

About twenty-four steam-boats ply incessantly between Albany and New York, and the number of sloops that trade between the two cities is very considerable.

In 1820 the population of Albany was 12,630 souls; it is at present 16,000.

On the morning of the 18th September, at 8 A.M. De Witt Clinton with a large number of citizens visited general Lafayette’s apartments, to present him in the name of the literary and philosophical society of New York with a diploma, constituting him a member of that society. On this occasion Mr. Clinton pronounced an elegant discourse which affected the general more, as coming from an orator who was the son and nephew of two distinguished men, with whom he had been intimately connected during the war of Independence. During this short ceremony a numerous procession was formed in front of our hotel, and at nine o’clock we embarked amidst the thundering of cannon, upon the canal which leads to Troy. Five handsome canal boats had been prepared for our voyage. The first carried a band of musicians; general Lafayette was in the second, with governor Yates, the ex-governors Lewis and Clinton, the mayor and city council, and some of the principal citizens of Albany. In the three last followed the escort commanded by major Coles, composed of an artillery company and three companies of infantry. We stopped a few minutes on the way to visit the Gibbonsville arsenal, belonging to the United States. This arsenal, one of the most considerable and best provided in the union, was founded in 1813, under the direction of colonel Bumford of the artillery, actually attached to the department of war, and completed by major Dalliba of the same corps, who has introduced into it a system of administration remarkable for its order and economy. At his entrance into the court of the arsenal the general was received by the officers of the post, and saluted by the discharge of three pieces of cannon taken at York-town. We remarked among the pieces of artillery, some French pieces presented by France to the United States during the revolutionary war; and all the camp equipage taken with general Burgoyne at Saratoga. We visited all the armouries, which are kept with remarkable care and elegance. We found there more than 30,000 muskets made after the best European models, as well as a large number of well made pistols and sabres. The powder magazine is also well provided.

Before mid-day we arrived at a point where the canal communicates with the Hudson opposite to Troy. At the sight of this town, which at present contains 8000 inhabitants, and which in commercial importance, is next to Albany in the state of New York, general Lafayette was struck with astonishment. “What!” cried he, “this town has arisen as by enchantment!” “No,” answered some one near him, “but it has been created and peopled in a few years, by industry protected by liberty.” The general then informed us that when in 1778, he crossed the Hudson at the same point, with a part of the army he commanded, there was then but two or three little cabins on the spot, in one of which, with some difficulty, he procured a cup of milk, and some corn bread. While he was giving us these interesting details our boat descended to the river, where a dozen decorated boats towed us across to Troy.

Landing in the midst of the numerous population which crowded the shore, the general was received by a committee appointed to express to him the sentiments of gratitude and attachment of the citizens. “Your indefatigable devotion to the cause of civil and religious liberty,” said the speaker, “has rendered your name illustrious wherever the rights of man are respected and honoured. The liberation of this country was an act worthy of the patriots by whose councils and arms it was consummated. Their toils, privations and sacrifices, and still more particularly your generous efforts, have impressed the hearts of the citizens of these states with a profound sentiment of gratitude which is increased daily by the development of an unexampled prosperity, and the benefits of the wisest institutions. May you long enjoy among us the fruits of your glorious labours. These fruits you may gather in the form of our government which guarantees to us, order and liberty; in our legal system which at the same time secures public peace and private rights; in our public schools, which bestows upon the poor as well as the rich, the benefits of a good education, in the change of our vast deserts into fertile fields; in the origin, increase, and multiplication of our cities, towns, and villages; in the creation of numerous means of communication to facilitate our commercial relations; in the variety and harmony of our different religious sects; finally you will gather the fruits of your labours and of those of our revolutionary patriots, in the spirit of enterprise and industry of a frugal people, content with their condition, obedient to the laws, at peace with themselves and the whole world, and lifting their grateful voices first towards God, and then to their benefactors, at the head of which your virtues and generous services place you.”

Unanimous applause, and the cry a thousand times repeated, of “Welcome! Welcome! Lafayette,” followed this speech, and the answer of Lafayette. He was immediately after raised in the arms of the people and placed in an open carriage, accompanied by colonel Lane, who fought with him at Brandywine, Monmouth, and York-Town. The procession, preceded by the Masonic Lodge, and followed by numerous corps of soldiers, passed through the streets of the town, amid the shouts of joy of a free and grateful people. While we were at breakfast in the house, from the balcony of which we had seen the troops of the town and adjacent country defile before us, the general received a message from the ladies of Troy, who invited him to visit the young ladies’ boarding school, where they were collected to receive him. He accepted the invitation with eagerness. The avenues to this establishment, directed by Mrs. Willard, were decorated with green branches and flowers, and terminated near the house in a triumphal arch, under which he was received by a committee of five ladies, headed by Mrs. Pawling, who in a few words elegantly expressed the patriotic sentiments of the ladies of Troy, and their tender gratitude to the illustrious benefactor of their beloved country. He was conducted by this committee into the interior of the establishment, where no other man went with him, and some moments after, we heard the pure and angelic voices of the young girls repeating in chorus, “To visit us thou hast left thy beloved family in a distant land, but be not afflicted; art thou not here in thy country? Behold how many of the daughters of Columbia are proud and happy to salute thee by the tender name of father.”

The general soon returned from the house; his features exhibiting profound emotion, and his eyes swimming in tears. He slowly descended the steps surrounded and supported by the principal ladies of the institution. Two hundred young girls followed him, clothed in white, harmoniously raising to heaven their grateful voices. They accompanied him to the outer gate where they took a tender leave of him, in the presence of several thousand spectators, whom this scene kept plunged in reverential silence.

General Lafayette was unwilling to quit Troy without paying some private visits to different persons of his intimate acquaintance, and particularly to Mrs. Taylor, with whose family he was connected during the revolution. Mrs. Taylor is a young lady much distinguished by her talents, and the information which she acquired at the institution we had just visited. We found at her house a very pretty cabinet of mineralogy, remarkable for its richness and order. She presented to the general as a remembrance of Troy, a beautiful herbarium containing more than two hundred of the most remarkable plants of the vicinity, collected, arranged and described by herself.

After these visits, we slowly left the town, in the midst of the population covering the road by which we had to reach the Hudson. Every one pushed towards the carriage and wished to shake hands with Lafayette. Fathers raised their children above the crowd that they might get a better view of him, and ask his benediction. At the moment we crossed the river, three cheers and a salute of artillery expressed the farewell and last wishes of this rich and happy city.

The town of Troy is situated upon the left bank of the Hudson, six miles from Albany, a little above tide water, and in a somewhat extensive and very fertile plain of alluvial formation. The river at this place is still more than 800 feet wide. Sixty sloops belonging to the inhabitants of this town, are employed in commerce, which does not prevent other vessels from finding occupation. The exportations of grain especially are very considerable.

Upon all the water courses falling into the river, and upon the river itself, are a great number of furnaces in full activity, rolling, slitting, and casting iron, and lead. The most considerable of these establishments is that of Adamsville. The principal building which contains the nail factory, has twenty-four machines for cutting and heading nails; they are all put in motion by an enormous wheel, turned by the force of the stream. This establishment manufactures a thousand tons of iron annually.

About two miles from Adamsville is a fine cotton manufactory, which has constantly 1700 spindles in action, moved by thirty machines turned by water. Near at hand is a bleaching ground for cotton cloths, where the bleaching is done by a chemical process for one or two cents a yard.

Tanneries, potteries, paper making, soap making, and lumber yards surround this city on all sides, which in 1786 did not exist; which in 1801 was nothing but a small village; did not acquire the distinction of city until 1816, and in 1820 was ravaged by a fire, the damages of which amounted to more than 360,000 dollars! In the sixty days following this catastrophe, the insurance company faithfully fulfilled its engagements, amounting to 110,000 dollars; and in a short time the burnt buildings were replaced by others more elegantly, more commodiously, and durably constructed. At present the city daily increases according to a regular plan; all the streets are large, right-lined, and furnished with fine pavements.

The inhabitants of Troy are not less remarkable for their love for letters and science, than for their activity and intelligent industry. They have in the city three periodical journals, four printing-offices, five considerable libraries, and a great number of public schools.

Troy also possesses many other sources of happiness and prosperity, concerning which out short stay in this city prevented me from obtaining positive information. It appears that the canal works for facilitating commerce are worthy of particular attention. But perhaps I shall have an opportunity of returning to this subject, as we expect to visit the greater part of the canals in the state of New York.

I remarked, with pleasure that the black population, which is not very numerous, (about 300) freely united their wishes for the Nation’s Guest, with the white people. At present there are scarcely thirty slaves in the city; from 1827 liberty will no longer have to blush in the presence of coloured men!

In returning to Albany, whither we went back by land, we visited governor Yates and De Witt Clinton, who was also governor of the state in 1817 and 1818. The latter, who has already passed through a long and brilliant political career, is destined, unless I am deceived, to play an important part in the affairs of his country. He has already successively been secretary to his uncle George Clinton, member of the New York legislature; senator of the United States; thrice mayor of New York; member of the committee of internal navigation; president of the canal board; lieutenant governor, and then governor of the state; many benevolent institutions owe their existence to him; he is member of almost all the scientific societies, and I shall not be surprised to hear his name one day, among the candidates for the presidency of the United States. He is at present 55 years old. It is difficult to find a man of more imposing figure, or of a nobler countenance. Every one agrees that his ruling passion is to augment the good of his fellow creatures. These are his titles of recommendation to a nation that knows well how to reward those who devote themselves to her service.15

It was very late when we left Albany: we came out of the city as we entered it by the light of bonfires, and went on board the steam-boat Kent at the place where we first landed. A few moments after we began to redescend the Hudson for New York, where we arrived at day-break on Monday, after a navigation of thirty-six hours, only interrupted by the short visits we made to Newburg, West Point, &c.