Читать книгу Your Herb Garden - Barbara Segall - Страница 49

Mark out the site, using the builder’s square to ensure straight edges, and sticks and strings as guides for the excavation.

Where the path is to be laid, dig out the soil deep enough to allow for a layer of hardcore, the dabs of mortar mix and the thickness of the path material. In this case allow 10cm (4in) for hardcore, 3cm (1¼in) for sand, 2.5cm (1in) for mortar dabs and 5cm (2in) for paver – a total of 20.5cm (8¼in).

Compact the base of the trench either by walking back and forth along it, or rolling it with a lawn roller.

Put a layer of hardcore into the base of the trench and tamp it down.

Cover with a layer of sand 3cm (1¼in) thick.

Mix up some mortar. Prepare it in batches as you use it. Mortar stays workable for up to two hours, depending on temperature. Always use clean water to be sure of a soft and easy-to-apply mix.

Place five dabs of mortar where the paving slab is to sit.

Lay the slab against the string, with the smooth side down (rough surface is non-slip) and use the spirit level to check that it is level.

Carry on laying the rest of the slabs in the same manner.

Mix up a fresh dry batch of mortar but don’t add water to it. Brush it in between the paving slabs and water in using a watering can.

Allow the mortar to set before using the path. Mortar takes up to 36 hours to dry depending on temperature and humidity. It is best to leave the path 3–5 days before using it.

If you have left the central square (where the four paths meet) unpaved, add compost and plant it up with thymes or lavender. If you prefer to pave it, use a decorative container of herbs to make a focal point.

Basketweave

Stretcherbond