Читать книгу The Irish Farmers’ Market Cookbook - Clodagh McKenna - Страница 20

Ireland’s coast is one of her greatest natural resources. Sandwiched between the Atlantic Ocean and the Irish Sea, her waters have offered up a plentiful supply of fish, shellfish and seaweeds. We have a thriving fishing industry, expert fishmongers and our artisan producers are exporting smoked fish and seaweed-based products around the globe. It all sounds good, and it is. The fish certainly is: it’s naturally high in protein, low in bad fats and is a great source of Omega 3 oil. But, are we good for the fish?

Over-fishing has left our oceans perilously under-stocked, and fishing methods are seriously damaging the ocean environment. Most nets are not selective, when one species of fish is targeted other species are also hauled in. Greenpeace estimates that globally, a quarter of what is caught is merely killed and discarded.

Fish farming is one solution to decreasing stocks, but fish farms are prone to the same problems as intensive chicken farming. I would urge you to buy organically farmed fish (a halfway house between wild and farmed), which is produced under strict guidelines from the Soil Association and other regulatory bodies. It’s reared with regard for its welfare and without artificial additives.

What else can you do? Ninety per cent of fish sold in Ireland goes through the big supermarkets. Yet barely any of them source their fish from sustainable fisheries. Help make the supermarkets accountable by asking why they may sell the least sustainable species (cod, plaice and tuna), and take your custom to local fishmongers and farmers’ markets. But do make sure that even your local supplier bought the fish from a sustainable fishery. Seek their advice – tell them you don’t want to use cod in a particular recipe, and ask them to recommend an alternative fish.

Finally, eat a variety of fish. We rely too heavily on cod and salmon when the sea around Ireland is full of mackerel and herring. Try my recipe for fried mackerel with chilli and rocket salsa. We have some of the best oyster and mussel beds in the world – eat oysters as fresh as possible with a squeeze of lemon juice, and try steaming mussels with fresh tomatoes and chilli. What about our prawns and fantastic smokehouses? Fish smokes beautifully: try smoked eel or kippers on home-made brown bread with mayonnaise – mmm, fantastic!