Читать книгу My Japanese Table - Debra Samuels - Страница 9

A Simple Guide to Japanese Ingredients

Basic Japanese ingredients are now available at supermarkets everywhere. The international section usually has short grain rice (for sushi), roasted seaweed (yaki nori), soy sauce, rice vinegar, and sesame oil. You will find fresh tofu, dumpling (gyoza) wrappers, fresh shiitake, and possibly even miso in the produce section. Edamame will be in the frozen food section. Organic markets have some of the lesser-known ingredients, such as seaweed, pickled plums (umeboshi), and miso. But, at least for the time being, you still may need to visit an Asian market or an on-line vendor for some of the dry or shelf stable ingredients like sweet rice flour (mochiko) or spring rain noodles (harusame) (p. 21). I know what it is like to buy one exotic spice for a recipe and never use it again, so I have given you multiple recipes for each ingredient. I have an extensive collection of Japanese ingredients in my pantry, but if you start with these 13 basic items—11 for the shelf and 2 for the fridge—you will be on your way to building your own collection.

For Your Pantry

Soy sauce (I use low sodium)

Mirin

Sake

Bonito flakes (katsuobushi)

Kelp (kombu)

Wakame

Roasted seaweed (yaki nori)

Roasted sesame seeds

Short or medium grain rice Sesame oil

Rice wine vinegar

For the Refrigerator

Miso

Tofu

Adzuki Beans (Adzuki) This petite red bean is high in fiber and very nutritious. In many Asian cuisines it is used mostly for making desserts. In Japan, where red and white are celebratory colors, it is also mixed with glutinous rice to make the dish, sekihan, which is eaten on special occasions. The canned beans come prepared whole and sweetened for topping fruit and ice cream and for baking in pastries. The sweetened paste (anko) comes in two textures—smooth (koshi an) and chunky (tsubu an). They are found in plastic pouches in the refrigerator section at Asian markets.

Bonito Flakes (Katsuobushi) Bonito flakes are the building block for most Japanese soups, sauces, and seasonings. They are made from dried, smoked, and fermented bonito, a large dark-fleshed relative of the tuna. The dried body of the fish is planed into papery curls that look like wood shavings. The large flakes, along with kelp (kombu), are used to make the classic Dashi (Fish Stock) (p. 35). This stock is full of natural glutamatic acid and is associated with the term umami, what we now associate with the savory “fifth taste.” The flakes also come finely shredded and are used as a topping for savory pancakes, salads, dressings, and for a filling in Stuffed Rice Balls (p. 88).

Bonito Granules (Hon Dashi) These dried granules are made from katsuo. Some may include salt, MSG, and sugar. Japanese cooks like the convenience of Bonito Granules, which they can dissolve in boiling water to make an instant stock. Use 1¹/₂ teaspoons in 2¹/₂ cups (625 ml) of water, although it will depend on the type of Bonito Granules used. There are other convenience products on the market called “dashi packs” that have processed bonito flakes in a square paper pouch (like a large tea bag), that drop directly into boiling water.

Chinese (Napa) Cabbage (Hakusai) This long leafy cabbage is used in stir-fries, for stuffing, to make pickles, and in hot pots. It is not usually eaten raw in Japanese cuisine and quickly cooks into a soft pliable leaf. The white stem area is edible and crunchy and has a fresh celery-like flavor.

Daikon Radish Daikon radish is a long thick white cylindrical root. The radish can be sliced and salted to make pickles. When grated or shredded for salads and sauces and consumed raw, it has a spicy bite, but turns mild when cooked.

Daikon Radish Sprouts (Kaiware Daikon) These spicy sprouts have bright green clover-like petals atop 2-inch (5 cm) long white stems. Their length makes them perfect for sushi hand rolls (p. 46). You can also use them in salads. When not available substitute watercress or spicy radish sprouts.

Edamame The fact that this entry is not in italics is testament to how much a part of the American culinary landscape edamame have become. These green beans grow on stalks in fuzzy pods and are served as a nutritious snack, boiled and salted in their pods, or folded into cooked rice. Outside Japan, they are mostly shelled and used in salads or used to make sauces for fancy sushi rolls and as a dip.

Garlic (Ninniku) Garlic is not a classically Japanese seasoning, but is used in Japan because Korean, Chinese, and Italian cuisines have become staples in the Japanese home. Garlic, a member of the onion family, is a strong aromatic used in stir-fries, to season ground meat for dumplings, and as a condiment.

Garlic Chives (Nira) These paper-thin, flat green chives are also known as Chinese chives and have a distinctly garlic flavor. They are used in the filling for dumplings. They are not always easy to find, so I substitute regular chives or the tops of green onions (scallions) when Garlic Chives are not available.

Ginger (Shoga) Ginger is an aromatic rhizome that grows horizontally underground in knobby clumps. It has a clean spicy flavor. The skin is peeled and the flesh is used fresh, not dried. Ginger is used in stir-fries, it is pickled for condiments, grated for seasoning, and its juice is extracted for sauces and dressings. The skin of the ginger is light tan and should be smooth, not wrinkled. Young ginger is long, thin, and very tender.

Gari Shoga This is the ginger that is served in little mounds alongside sushi and sashimi. Paper-thin slices are marinated in a bath of sweet-and-sour vinegar. Found in the refrigerator sections, it is usually light pink due to the addition of food coloring. It is made from young ginger, which is less fibrous. In sushi restaurants you may find the natural light tannish-yellow slices.

Beni Shoga These neon red shreds of salty and sharp pickled ginger are scattered atop, or mixed in with Scattered Sushi Rice Salad (p. 50) or as a condiment eaten with Japanese style curry rice (kare raisu).

Green Onions (Scallions) Green onions (scallions) most closely resemble the Japanese long onion naganegi. It is mild with a long white onion stem and green top. Both are used in soups, salads and as a garnish. Although not perfect, the tops can be used as a substitute for chives.

Hot Spices Although Japanese food is not thought of as a particularly spicy cuisine, plenty of heat is often added to cooked dishes, through such condiments as wasabi in sushi or red pepper flakes (togarashi) sprinkled on a bowl of noodles.

Dried Red Pepper (Togarashi) These dried red peppers are used whole in pickling or ground and sprinkled on cooked foods. red pepper powder (ichimi togarashi) can be part of a spicy blend called shichimi that includes seven other peppers and spices.

Dry Yellow Mustard (Karashi) Dry yellow mustard seeds are ground and mixed with flour. Dry Yellow Mustard must be mixed with water. It is also available as a paste. This very spicy mustard resembles English style mustard, but is a darker yellow. It is used for dipping fried foods, such as pork cutlets and oyster or shrimp fry, with roast pork, or steamed fish balls (oden).

Wasabi This is a fresh water root cultivated in rural Japan. Freshly grated for eating with sushi and sashimi, it was once used to mask the smell of fish and is reputed to have powerful antibacterial and anti-parasitic function when eaten with raw fish. Fresh wasabi is expensive and very hard to obtain outside Japan. Most of us are familiar with it as a paste that comes in a tube or as a powder to mix with water. Both the paste and the powder come mixed with other ingredients, such as horseradish. Combined with soy sauce, wasabi is also a dressing for vegetables.

Japanese Citron (Yuzu) This Japanese citron is prized as much for its aromatic zest as for its juice. The fruit is full of pits, and produces very little juice, so it can be quite expensive. It is rare to find this fresh citrus outside Japan, although it is sometimes available at Asian markets. The juice comes in small bottles and is highly concentrated. It is used to flavor dressings and the zest is used for soups and teas.

Miso Miso is fermented soybean paste. Soybeans are steamed with grain, yeast, and salt and then are fermented, forming a variety of pastes of varying strengths. The most common and mild miso pastes are the white ones (shiro) that are used with bonito stock to make miso soup. The darker and saltier red miso (aka) is also used for soup. A mixture of white and red pastes (awasemiso) is also very popular. Miso can be used to marinate fish and vegetables, and is a base for sauces such as Sweet Miso Sauce (p. 32). It usually comes in clear plastic containers and pouches. Be sure to check the label, as some include the stock (Dashi) for convenience.

Mushrooms There are a large variety of wonderful mushrooms available for Japanese dishes:

Enokitake These thin white mushrooms have a small smooth cap and a narrow, long 3-inch (7.5 cm) stem. They grow in a bundle and are often used in soups and hot pots and in combination with other mushrooms. They taste clean and delicate, and their texture includes a bit of a crunch. They have recently become popular and can be found in cellophane packages in many western supermarkets. They keep for about 1 week in the refrigerator. Shimeji These stumpy mushrooms grow in clumps and can have white or light brown triangular-shaped caps on a 1 or 2-inch (2.5-5 cm) stem. They have a meaty texture and must be cooked. Break up the clump into smaller sections for cooking.

Shiitake Sometimes called black mushrooms, or Chinese mushrooms, shiitake are available both fresh and dried. These mushrooms are grown in Korea, China, and Japan. Fresh shiitake are now widely available in western supermarkets and must be cooked before being consumed. They are used in hot pots, stir-fries, and soups and can be quite meaty. The cap is light brown and has a smooth soft texture. The stem tends to be woody and is not usually eaten, but saved to add to a stock for flavor. Dried shiitake mushrooms must be reconstituted and are more intensely flavorful than the fresh ones. Use the tasty soaking liquid to cook the mushrooms as well as for stocks and sauces. Dried shiitake can have thick brown caps with white cracks or can be thinner and darker with a slightly yellowish underside. The soaking time varies according to the thickness of the mushroom. They stay indefinitely on the shelf in an airtight container. Once reconstituted, you can use dried shiitake in any dish calling for shiitake. However, fresh shiitake is not suitable for all recipes.

Noodles come in a variety of flavors and shapes:

Udon These creamy, white, thick wheat noodles are used in soups, hot pots, and stir-fries. They come both fresh and par cooked in nests of single serving sizes, usually in the refrigerator sections of Asian markets. They also come dried in long cylindrical cellophane packages. Recently, I have seen some of the par-cooked variety in the Asian section of supermarkets in shelf stable packages.

Buckwheat Noodles (Soba) These nutritious noodles are made from a combination of buckwheat and wheat flours, and come in individual serving sizes packed in cylindrical bundles. They have a chewy texture and an earthy nutty flavor. In Japan, during the summer, they are often eaten cold, served simply with a dipping sauce and green onions (scallions). However, they are also cooked and served in a hot broth.

Spring Rain Noodles (Harusame) The name “spring rain noodles” is fitting for these translucent vermicelli made from either potato or yam starch. Sold dry they are re-constituted in boiled water and then used in cold noodle salads and hot pots and do not fall apart when simmered in soups or sauces. They come in cellophane packages and are sometimes referred to as saifun noodles.

Brown Rice (Genmai) Brown rice is un-polished short grain rice with the layer of bran left intact. It is more nutritious than white rice, but not that popular in Japan yet. It needs to be cooked longer, but uses the same amount of water. Although it is almost never used for making sushi in Japan it is gaining in popularity due to an increase in organic health food restaurants and stores.

Rice (Kome) Short and medium grain rice, japonica, is stickier than the long grain variety. This is the rice eaten daily and used in making sushi. Do not confuse it with the sticky rice (glutinous or sweet rice) that is used to make mochi and Japanese sweets.

Mirin This is a sweet rice wine used for cooking. Aji-mirin, which has sugar and salt added, is the variety most commonly found in markets. Hon mirin, with no additives, and higher alcohol content, is sold only in liquor stores in Japan and is very hard to locate elsewhere. Some of my Japanese friends say they mix a little sugar and sake together, but it isn’t the same thing.

Rice Vinegar (Su) Rice vinegar is milder and is less acidic than the sharper western vinegars made from fermenting fruit. It is used for making salads (sunomono) and dressing for sushi. Do not mistake pure rice vinegar for bottles of seasoned rice vinegar (sushi-zu), which contains sugar and salt. I prefer to make my own seasoned rice vinegar.

Soy Sauce (Shoyu) Soy sauce is a brown liquid made from crushed, fermented soybeans, wheat, and salt. It is ubiquitous in Japanese cuisine and is associated with the term umami, the savory “fifth taste.” It also acts as a preservative. There are a variety of soy sauces on the market, but Japanese soy sauce is generally less salty than its Chinese counterparts. It may seem counter-intuitive, but light soy sauce (usukuchi shoyu) is saltier than regular soy sauce. Cooks who do not wish their food to darken often use the lighter soy sauce. Regular soy sauce is used directly for dipping. I use low sodium soy sauce in most of my recipes and at the table as well. It has about 30% less sodium.

Sake This clear and potent rice wine, made by brewing short grain rice in porcelain or wooden casks, is used for cooking or drinking. Much like wine grown abroad, breweries are highly localized and each region of Japan produces its own signature sakes. It can be served hot or cold.

Sesame Oil This aromatic oil is made by pressing hulled roasted sesame seeds, and is used in dressings, sauces, and to stir-fry vegetables. It is often added to flavor neutral oil in making tempura.

Dry Mixed Seasoning for Rice (Furikake) Furikake is a savory dried mixture for sprinkling on top of, or mixing into, hot rice. The varieties are endless and can include combinations of dried ingredients such as seaweed, herbs, sesame seeds, fish, egg, sour plum, salt, sugar and sometimes MSG. Commercial brands are plentiful and delicious, but you can also make your own combination (p. 31)

Salt (Shio) Sea salt is most commonly used in Japan. The sea salt is moist and sold in plastic pouches. It is used for making pickles and seasoning sauces. I use either a fine grain sea salt (as moist as I can find) or kosher salt.

Seaweed This sea vegetable is an integral part of Japanese meals and can be purchased and eaten in both dried and fresh forms. Nutrient-dense seaweed is used in salads, soups, as a stock, and, most famously, to wrap sushi.

Hijiki One of the most nutritious seaweeds, hijiki is rich in protein, minerals, and high in fiber, it comes dried in short thread-like strands. It has a chewy texture and is used in simmered and fresh salads with seasoned tofu, carrots, and soybeans. Hijiki is great when stir-fried in sesame oil. I find the flavor has a hint of licorice to it.

Nori (Laver) This seaweed is dried, but doesn’t need to be reconstituted. Roasted Seaweed (yaki nori) comes in sheets, squares, or rectangles and is used to wrap plain or sushi rice. It is made from chopped pieces that are dried and pressed into sheets. It is also cut into strips and used as a garnish and as part of a savory rice sprinkle mix used on or mixed in with plain rice.

Kelp (Kombu) It almost always comes as a dried flat rectangle, in a variety of lengths and widths. It is used directly for seasoning stocks, in the water for rice, and sometimes to add depth to dressings. It is rich in the natural glutamates that appear as a light white dusty coating on the surface of the seaweed. Kelp becomes thick and slimy after soaking and is removed before eating. But don’t throw it out. It can be chopped and simmered in soy sauce and seasonings and used to make the condiment tsukudani for rice.

Wakame This is the seaweed most often used in soups and vinegared salads. You are most likely to find it in dried form outside Japan, probably cellophane packages of foot-long (30 cm) threads or 1-inch (2.5 cm) pieces. It is high in Vitamins B and C. Wakame is mild and has a velvety texture. It only needs a short soak before expanding to almost triple its size.

Sesame Seeds Both white (shiro goma) and black (kuro goma) sesame seeds are versatile accents in many Japanese dishes. Often they are toasted and crushed in a special grooved ceramic bowl called a suribachi to bring out their nutty flavor. These seeds are mixed in with salads, used as a garnish, as a condiment, in sauces and in desserts. Japanese brands of sesame seeds are packaged in plastic pouches or plastic jars. Look for the word iri goma, which means the seeds have already been toasted. I usually re-toast them in a dry skillet for an even deeper flavor. White sesame seeds are roasted, crushed and pressed to make sesame oil.

Shiso This member of the mint family is my all-time favorite Japanese herb. Like other members of the mint family, it grows like a weed. This perennial has been growing happily in my garden for 10 years. Known in English as Beefsteak plant or Perilla, it has a distinctive flavor—some combination of mint and basil with a hint of coriander leaves (cilantro). It is a beautiful serrated-edge leaf that is used with sushi. Chop it up and add it to salads, or deep-fry it for tempura. Its seeds and blossoms, when salted and preserved, can be added to warm rice. There are two varieties: the more common green (aojiso), and the red (akajiso), used mostly for adding color rather than flavor.

Sugar (Sato) People are surprised that so much sugar is used in Japanese cuisine. Most Japanese sugar is made from sugar cane. It is white and moist and resembles the texture of brown sugar. This is what is used in cooking. It is totally different from the granulated sugar used in the West. I use granulated sugar in most of the recipes in this book unless otherwise indicated. Many Japanese use a brown sugar (san on tou) instead of the white, which has a slight caramel flavor. I substitute light brown sugar, which is slightly stronger but works well.

Sweet Rice Flour (Mochiko) Sweet rice (glutinous) flour is made from milled and ground sweet short grain rice. This flour is used in making desserts and is also suitable as a thickening agent. For recipes in this book I use Koda Farms brand, which comes in 1-pound (500 g) boxes and is available in most Asian grocers or online. Other sweet rice flours are not suitable for substitution.

Sweet Rice Flour Granules (Shiratamako) are a sweet rice (glutinous) flour that has been dried into smaller than pea-size granules. It is used in making Japanese sweets and can also be a thickener. The granules are mixed with water and heated to form sticky dough. Shiratamako comes in tubular cellophane packages and is available at Japanese grocers as well as Asian grocers, or online.

Tofu Tofu is made from the “milk” of cooked soybeans that are mashed, sieved, and mixed with a coagulant and poured into molds while it drains and sets. A nutritious block of non-animal protein and amino acids, it has been the mainstay in vegetarian and Asian diets for centuries, and it long ago crossed over to the mainstream in Western cuisines. Tofu comes in a myriad of textures both dried and fresh, and is eaten both raw and cooked, in soups, stews, salads. It absorbs the flavors of whatever is cooked with it. Two of the most common forms of tofu in supermarkets are soft and firm, but there are many varieties within that range. Soft or silken tofu (kinu) is used in soups, dressings and on its own. Firm tofu (momen) is commonly used in soups, stews, and salads.

Tonkatsu Sauce This vinegary sweet, thick, rich brown sauce is a Worcestershire-like sauce that combines tomato paste, fruit, and a variety of seasonings. It is used as a dressing and dip for fried dishes, like Fried Pork Cutlets (Tonkatsu) (p. 104) and Fried Oysters (Kaki Furai) (p. 113). The most popular commercial brand is Bull-Dog Sauce and it comes in a plastic rectangular bottle. Similar sauces are used for topping Stuffed Savory Pancakes (Okonomiyaki) (p. 60) and are mixed into Fried Noodles with Cabbage and Pork (Yaki Soba) (p. 94), but they vary in sweetness and viscosity.

Umeboshi Sour, reddish purple, with wrinkly skin the dried pickled Japanese apricot, sometimes referred to as a plum, is a standard condiment on every Japanese table.

White Bait (Chirimen/Chirimen-jako) These miniscule dried or semi-dried baby anchovies are mixed into salads or rice directly. They are also used as part of a Homemade Savory Sprinkles (Furikake) (p. 31). They come separately in shelf stable cellophane packets or in the freezer section of Asian markets. Toast them, like sesame seeds, for an added protein crunch.

Green Tea (Sencha/Ocha) This is the most common Japanese beverage. Imported from China centuries ago, Japan’s tea bushes grow in perfectly mounded and manicured rows. The young leaves are picked, steamed, and then dried. The amount of tea, the temperature, the grade, and brewing time are important factors in serving a good cup of green tea. Unlike black tea, (kocha) which requires boiling water poured onto the tea leaves, the temperature for making green tea is lower—about 160-170°F (70-80°C) depending on whether it is spring picked sencha or summer harvested bancha or genmaicha.

Powdered Green Tea (Matcha) This is the ground, powdered green tea famously used in Japanese tea ceremonies. It is made from leaves that have been grown in the shade and has a deep moss green color and bitter flavor. It has high caffeine content and is packed with antioxidants such as Vitamins C and E. Unlike other teas, where leaves are steeped in water and should not be swallowed, with matcha one ingests the dissolved leaf, thus increasing its health benefits. Matcha is no longer just for tea ceremonies or drinking. You can now order matcha latte and shakes and find it in Japanese and western confections. Matcha is sold in small tins or foil pouches and is more expensive than sencha.

Hojicha This is also referred to as bancha, a rustic blend of roasted older tea leaves and twigs. It has a dark brownish color and a deep smoky flavor. It is a very satisfying drink at anytime of the day because it has less caffeine than sencha. Unlike sencha, you pour boiling water directly on the leaves.