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Introduction

“Mt. Rainier, or Tahoma (the Indian name), is the noblest of the volcanic cones extending from Lassen Butte and Mt. Shasta along the Cascade Range to Mt. Baker. … Rainier … surpasses them all in massive icy grandeur—the most majestic solitary mountain I had ever yet beheld.”

—John Muir, Travels in Alaska, 1915

Opposite: Indian Bar from trail up Cowlitz Divide

Mount Rainier and the Wonderland Trail

As any Seattle area resident looking up and admiring “their” mountain can attest, John Muir, as usual, had it right. Mount Rainier is truly a majestic sight that dominates its surroundings like no other peak in the lower 48 United States. Given the mountain’s size and prominence, it is not surprising that this geographic wonder is defined by superlatives. It is the tallest mountain in the state of Washington, and, for that matter, in the entire Cascade Range, making it the undisputed king of the Pacific Northwest. It supports (by far) the largest glacier system of any mountain in the United States, outside of Alaska, and proudly displays its permanent mantle of white to awed viewers who are as far as 100 miles away in every direction (at least on days when clouds don’t block the view). It is protected in what was only our nation’s fifth, and what is still one of its best, national parks, established all the way back in 1899. It is the largest volcanic mountain in the lower 48 United States and one of the largest in the world. It supports thriving populations of some of the continent’s most impressive wildlife and grandest trees, as well as some of the most abundant displays of wildflowers of any area in the country. And, admittedly more of an opinion than a quantifiable fact, it is simply one of the most beautiful and awe-inspiring peaks you will find anywhere.

But, for all that, this book is not about the mountain itself. Instead, this book highlights what is, in the opinion of thousands of amazed pedestrians over the years, the best way to see, feel, and appreciate this grand mountain: hiking all the way around it.

Like the mountain it encircles, the Wonderland Trail is defined by superlatives. With a length of 92.2 miles (or thereabouts, depending on which measurement you believe) and, perhaps more significant, with nearly 4 vertical miles of uphill along the way, this is one of the longest and toughest trails in the entire national park system. The trail passes through every life zone in the park, so hikers enjoy everything from cathedral stands of low-elevation old-growth rain forest to starkly beautiful above-timberline landscapes of rocks and glaciers. In between are numerous waterfalls, some of the grandest mountain wildflower displays in the world, plenty of wildlife, dozens of small lakes, idyllic mountain meadows, rushing glacial torrents spanned by frightening swinging bridges, meandering clear brooks crossed by quaint logs, and countless opportunities for side trips to little-known glories high on the slopes of the mountain. It is hardly surprising, then, that virtually every list of the greatest hikes in North America places the Wonderland Trail near the top.

For any avid backpacker the Wonderland Trail is a hike on his or her life list that should be taken at least once before the body decides that the heavy backpack has to be put away for good. For more than a few locals, the trail is not a one-time thing but an annual adventure, with the ever-changing scenery drawing them back year after year to this mountain pilgrimage. The fact that you are reading this book probably means that you would like to join this cadre of satisfied hikers, adding the Wonderland Trail to your own list of lifetime best hikes. With the help of this book, you are cordially invited to do just that. In addition to being a complete trail guide that fully describes the main trail, several excellent alternate routes, and dozens of the best side trips, this book guides you through the often complex planning and logistics required by this daunting hike. The goal is to make your trip not only more enjoyable but also easier to complete and to ensure that once you take those final steps back to your car at (probably) Longmire, you won’t be disappointed.

Mount Rainier’s Human History

Today’s hikers are far from the first to appreciate the value and wonders of Mount Rainier. Although the archaeological evidence is sketchy, based on studies in other parts of the Cascade Range, human beings have probably been visiting the area now occupied by Mount Rainier National Park for as long as 8,000 years. Most of the park has not been thoroughly surveyed, but several dozen known sites indicate that Native Americans used the area for hunting, tool stone procurement, and the gathering of berries and other foods. In historic times, five Native American tribes used the area: the Nisqually, Puyallup, Muckleshoot, Yakama, and Taidnapam. Some of these people continued to visit the park for hunting and berry collection into the early 20th century. Different tribes undoubtedly had different names for the peak, but the generally accepted name in use at the time that Europeans arrived was Tacoma or Tahoma. The word is believed to be from the Lushootseed language spoken by the Puyallups and meant either “mother of waters,” “snowcapped peak,” or, somewhat less poetically, “larger than Koma,” which was the name for another area volcano, the somewhat smaller Mount Baker.

A CONTRARIAN’S VIEW

Partly because the authors can hardly be described as unbiased observers, hiking guidebooks rarely present a dissenting view about the beauty and virtues of the trails described in their pages. Because I feel absolutely confident that any rational person will loudly extol the virtues of the Wonderland Trail once he or she hikes its 92 (or so) spectacular miles, I am going to break with tradition and pass along the thoughts of a person who apparently wasn’t so enthralled. The managing editor of a prominent hiking magazine (a man who really should know better) once wrote the following about the Wonderland Trail: “Hike around a mountain, suffering all the ups and downs of its ridges and valleys, slogging through constant wet, not getting more than one or two excellent views a day, and not then also climb the damn thing? That’s like getting a Blowpop and only consuming the stick.”

Not that I want to pick a fight or anything, but with all due respect to this man, he is a blind idiot who doesn’t belong on any trail without adult supervision. First of all, he must have lost track while trying to count them on his fingers, but the Wonderland Trail offers hundreds of great viewpoints, and they come along far more frequently than once or twice a day. Second, while it is certainly true that hiking the Wonderland Trail is a strenuous endeavor that requires plenty of climbing over ridges and dropping into valleys, that is all part of hiking. If this man wants to see great scenery without having to work for it, he should stay home on the couch and watch the National Geographic Channel. Finally, if he wants to climb Mount Rainier in addition to hiking the Wonderland Trail, then go right ahead. There are climbing services that do just that, and you can get a permit at any of the wilderness information centers in the park (as of 2012 there is a $43 fee for an annual climbing pass, plus $20 for an advance reservation—strongly advised, because this is very popular). It is an amazing experience, and I encourage every reader of this book to learn basic mountain-climbing skills and take a guided sojourn to the summit. But the two experiences—climbing the peak and hiking around it—have nothing to do with one another. My wife and I recently visited the big island of Hawaii. We swam with green sea turtles, hiked across a recently active volcanic crater, visited a spectacular tropical botanical garden, saw lots of interesting birds, and relaxed on idyllic sandy beaches, but I did not have time to climb to the top of Mauna Loa. Does that omission mean that the rest of our trip was somehow bad or a waste of time? I would strongly suggest that this magazine editor have both his eyesight checked and his attitude adjusted.

The first Europeans to see Mount Rainier were members of a British exploring expedition under the command of Captain George Vancouver. They sighted the mountain in May 1792, and their captain named the peak after a friend of his, Rear Admiral Peter Rainier of the British Navy. In 1806 members of the Meriwether Lewis and William Clark expedition became the first known American explorers to see the mountain, though they never got closer than the Columbia River, some 80 miles away.

Many of the names of glaciers, peaks, and other geographic features in the park date back to the early explorers who visited the mountain. In 1833, for example, William Tolmie, the physician at the Hudson’s Bay Company’s Fort Nisqually, became the first known white man to visit the area now occupied by the park when he hired five native guides and came into what is now the northwest corner of the park in search of medicinal plants. Then in 1857 August Valentine Kautz, an Army lieutenant stationed at Fort Steilacoom, made the first documented attempt to climb the mountain. He and some companions hired a Nisqually as a guide and took six days to travel through the nearly impenetrable lower-elevation forests before they finally reached open terrain and began their attempt on the summit. Two days and much hard work later, Kautz made it the farthest of the group, probably topping out at close to 14,000 feet near the ironically titled Point Success (just a little more than 400 feet from the top), but he did not achieve his goal.

In 1859 James Longmire, an ambitious settler to the Washington Territory from Indiana, established the rugged Packwood Trail, which allowed people to travel from the Puget Sound coastline to the lower reaches of Mount Rainier. Fully 11 years later, three of those visitors, guided by Longmire and a Native American named Sluiskin, set out to reach the top. On August 17, 1870, two of those men, Hazard Stevens and Philemon B. Van Trump (Don’t you just love those old names? When was the last time you met anybody with a name like Hazard or Philemon?) became the first people to make it to the summit. In 1883, at the for-his-time relatively advanced age of 63, the ever-enterprising Longmire made his first climb to the top of the mountain and, on his way back from that trip, discovered a meadow with some interesting soda and mineral springs. He built a rough-log hotel there and set about convincing people (with considerable success) that soaking in the spring water was a medicinal cure. The meadow, springs, and development he started still carry Longmire’s name and today are the most popular starting point for those doing the Wonderland Trail.

One other historical visitor of note was the great conservationist John Muir. Upon seeing the mountain during a visit to Puget Sound in 1888, the excited Muir decided to alter his original travel plans and climb the alluring peak. He succeeded in reaching the summit, although, expressing the same opinion as countless Wonderland Trail visitors since, Muir decided that the peak was best appreciated and more impressive from below than from the top. His writings, along with the images taken by his companion, photographer Arthur C. Warner, helped to bring broader attention to the mountain and its beauty.

On March 2, 1899, following promotion and preservation efforts that began as early as 1883, President William McKinley signed the law creating Mount Rainier as our nation’s fifth national park.

At the time of the park’s creation, there were already many miles of trails in the area. Most of these were old Native American paths, miner’s routes, and trails to favored hunting and food-gathering sites. In addition, Longmire, after establishing his hotel and health spa, had built several trails in the park’s southwest corner. There was not, however, any developed trail all the way around the mountain.

Despite the practical difficulties, the idea of walking the entire distance around this towering landmark had great appeal, and it was members of a new organization (what would become the Mountaineers, which started in 1906) who helped to promote the idea with their annual sojourns to the peak. In anticipation of a planned trek by members of the group, several unfinished segments of the around-the-mountain route were hastily completed in the summer of 1914 and early in 1915. So it was in the summer of 1915 that 100 Mountaineers made the first recorded expedition around the peak. It was not until 1921, however, that today’s wonderfully evocative name for the trail was used in a National Park Service (NPS) report. For obvious reasons, the language stuck and the Wonderland Trail was born.

Natural History

Any visitor to a grand natural playground and outdoor laboratory such as Mount Rainier National Park will (or at least should) be interested in learning about the plants, animals, and rocks that surround them. Most people enjoy their visit much more when they can put a name to the things they see and better understand how those elements fit together in an intricate ecological balance. For the hiker, there is no better way to appreciate the enormous natural diversity of the region than by hiking the Wonderland Trail, because that pathway visits almost every major ecosystem in the park, from lowland forests to alpine meadows and rock gardens. This section provides an overview of the fascinating natural history of the park. Interested hikers are strongly encouraged to learn more by talking to rangers, visiting park museums, and reading any of several excellent books about the area’s wildflowers, trees, shrubs, birds, mammals, glaciers, and volcanic eruptions (see Appendix A, for recommended reading).

GEOLOGY

As even a casual glance by the uninitiated quickly indicates, the geologic history of Mount Rainier is dominated by the forces of volcanism and glaciers. Mount Rainier is one of the world’s most massive stratovolcanoes, built up in a series of lava flows and eruptions over thousands of years. All of the dominant rocks in the park are volcanic in origin, including large amounts of andesite and basalt. Early lava deposits that helped to form the mountain are estimated to be more than 840,000 years old, but the present cone is thought to be a little more than 500,000 years old. Countless eruptions, debris flows, landslides, and lahars (volcanic mudflows) have built up and torn down sections of the peak over the millennia, so its shape and profile have constantly changed over time.

Andesite column rock formation below South Puyallup Camp

One of the last really large mudflow events was the Osceola Mudflow, which occurred about 5,600 years ago. During this event a large section of the mountain’s summit collapsed, removing some 1,600 feet from the top of the peak and sending half a cubic mile of debris down the White River Valley. The unstoppable slurry of mud, debris, and glacial ice flowed downstream and covered most of the present-day city of Tacoma. In the process, the flow undoubtedly killed many Native Americans who were, at that time, living around Puget Sound. Since then, there have been countless smaller mud and debris flows, and these continue to occur today. Debris flows have raced down the canyon of Tahoma Creek, for example, as many as two dozen times since the late 1960s. And in 1963 a massive debris avalanche peeled off the slopes of a side peak called Little Tahoma, rocketed down the Emmons Glacier, and nearly wiped out the White River Campground. Fears about a repeat of the Osceola Mudflow, or any of several possible smaller catastrophes, have placed Mount Rainier at the top of the list of the most dangerous volcanoes in the United States. Part of the reason the mountain is so dangerous is that it is covered with such enormous quantities of ice, which could suddenly melt in an eruption and create massive flooding. Another factor that concerns geologists, as well as local disaster-preparedness officials, is the sheer number of people (hundreds of thousands) who now live in areas that could be devastated by an eruption or even by events such as landslides and mudflows that are not necessarily related to eruptive activity.

Though quiet for now, Mount Rainier is still an active volcano. Continuing geothermal heat keeps areas along the summit rim free of ice and has created both a meltwater lake below the ice and an extensive glacial cave network in the mountain’s two summit craters. Reliable eyewitness reports indicate eruptions in 1820, 1846, 1854, 1858, 1879, 1882, and 1894. As of 2012 there is no immediate concern about an eruption, but geologists would not be surprised if the mountain began acting up again.

The second dominant force in shaping the landscape around Mount Rainier is glaciers. These massive, slow-moving rivers of ice gradually carve into, grind up, and carry away huge quantities of rock, leaving behind deep U-shaped valleys, cirque lakes, moraines, and other characteristic features. Today some 25 major glaciers cover approximately 35 square miles of the mountain’s surface, so the influence of these icy monsters is ongoing. In the not-so-distant past, much more of the mountain and surrounding area was under ice. During the most recent glacial period, which ended more than 10,000 years ago, glaciers covered virtually every square inch of what is now Mount Rainier National Park. They even extended down from the mountain all the way to the Puget Sound Basin. Then, during the so-called Little Ice Age, between the 14th century and about 1850, the mountain’s glaciers advanced again, extending, at times, several miles beyond their current locations. Since then, the glaciers have generally been in an uneven state of retreat, with periodic advances, such as in the late 1970s and early 1980s. Today, most of the mountain’s glaciers are thinning and retreating at a relatively rapid rate.

Mount Rainier and snout of Carbon Glacier

A final important factor in carving the landscape around Mount Rainier is the erosive action of the many creeks and rivers that pour off the mountain. These streams inexorably carry away the sand and debris created by glaciers (for proof, look at the heavily silt-laden creeks and rivers you cross along the trail) and slowly carve deep canyons of their own into the tough volcanic rock.

FLORA

Due to the area’s abundant moisture and the park’s dramatic and relatively rapid changes in elevation—from just 1,700 feet at the Carbon River to 14,410 feet at the summit (that’s almost two-and-a-half times the depth of the Grand Canyon)—the vegetation of Mount Rainier National Park is diverse, lush, and beautiful. Well more than 1,100 species of plants—ranging from fungi and lichens to grasses and sedges, numerous species of ferns, hundreds of different wildflowers, several types of shrubs and small trees, and a number of giant coniferous tree species—live here. Because the Wonderland Trail visits all of the park’s vegetation zones, you will have the opportunity during your trip to see virtually all of this incredible diversity of greenery.

Lake James

About 58% of the park is covered by forest. At the lowest elevations, generally below 2,700 feet, are the giant old specimens of western hemlocks, Douglas firs, and western red cedars. Understory trees in this environment must survive in a land of very little light because the canopy above blocks most of the sunlight from reaching the forest floor. Look in these shady areas for Pacific yews, grand firs, and vine maples. The most abundant ground cover species here include devil’s club, thimbleberry, sword and deer ferns, oxalis, and salal. On the few open slopes at these lower elevations, which are kept clear of large trees by frequent avalanches, are dense thickets of alders. Almost 100 species of moss and 200 types of fungi abound in the lush and damp low-elevation environment. Some of the oldest and largest of the trees in this zone are found along the lower reaches of Ipsut Creek and near the banks of the Carbon River, both in the park’s northwest corner and in the Grove of the Patriarchs, just a short side trip off the Eastside alternative to the Wonderland Trail.

As you climb into the midelevation forest zone, which fills the area from 2,700 feet to 4,000–6,000 feet depending on local conditions, you encounter a different mix of conifers. The most notable species here are Pacific silver firs, Alaska yellow cedars, western white pines, and noble firs. The trees here are generally smaller than those at lower elevations, but the forests are usually more diverse in size and age. One of the most delightful understory species in this zone is the huckleberry, which provides a tasty feast in late summer.

Above the forests are the subalpine parklands, which spectacularly host so much of the Wonderland Trail. These make up about 23% of the park’s area and include many of the park’s most popular road-accessible locations, such as Paradise and Sunrise. Here trees come only in scattered clumps, so you are no longer in forest. Instead the dominant vegetation is grasses, sedges, low-growing shrubs, and amazingly abundant wildflowers. What trees exist are often picturesquely contorted by wind and heavy snowfall and include whitebark pines, mountain hemlocks, subalpine firs, Alaska yellow cedars, and a few Engelmann spruces.

One of the things for which Mount Rainier is justly famous is the abundance and beauty of its wildflowers. In mid- to late summer many visitors are more impressed with the blossoms found carpeting the subalpine parklands than they are with the mountain views. Peak blooming times vary with the elevation and the depth of the previous winter’s snowpack, but if seeing lots of wildflowers is part of your reason for hiking the Wonderland Trail, then it’s usually best to schedule your hike from very late July to mid-August.

A complete list of the park’s wildflowers is beyond the scope of this book (not to mention the expertise of the author), so what follows is only a partial listing of the most abundant species you are likely to encounter. White flowers you should look for include twinflowers, bunchberries, mountain bistorts, Sitka valerians, avalanche lilies, bear grass, western pasqueflowers, pussytoes, yarrows, and, in very moist areas, marsh marigolds. Common yellow and orange wildflowers are glacier lilies, groundsels, fanleaf cinquefoils, buttercups, and orange agoseris (or orange mountain dandelions). Some of the most abundant blue wildflowers are subalpine lupines, larkspurs, bluebells, and, in late summer, gentians. Finally a few of the more abundant red and pink wildflowers are paintbrushes, shooting stars, mountain spireas, pink heather, fireweeds, cliff penstemons, and columbines. Anyone who is interested in wildflowers should carry an identification guide. With one of these in hand you could easily spend several happy hours in almost any meadow identifying, photographing, smelling, and generally enjoying the vast array of blossoms that carpet these bits of mountain paradise. Keep in mind, however, that these high meadows have very short growing seasons and are extremely fragile. Always remain on established trails to avoid trampling the delicate flowers.

Western pasqueflowers

Above the subalpine parklands is the alpine zone, which is dominated by rocks, ice, and snowfields. Here the plants must cope with extreme conditions and are often very small and hard to see. Tiny rock gardens brighten these areas, and discovering these little patches of color is a real joy. Aster, heather, partridgefoot, moss campion, phlox, and Cusick’s speedwell are among the more commonly encountered wildflowers. Other flora include lichens (a favorite food of mountain goats), grasses, and various sedges. Despite the harsh conditions, the plant communities here are among the oldest in the park. Some heather communities, for example, are believed to have persisted in these alpine environments for as long as 10,000 years.

FAUNA

As is true throughout the world, by far the most abundant group of animals in Mount Rainier National Park is the invertebrates—insects, worms, spiders, and the like. Apart from admiring a few colorful butterflies or cursing the blasted mosquitoes, however, most people show little interest in the vast range of little critters. Still, they are vitally important to the health of the park’s ecosystems and can be quite fascinating. They range from such unusual animals as ice worms, which live in the mountain’s glacial ice, to an array of beetles that prowl the forest floor. Take some time during your hike to examine these miniature beings and appreciate their beauty and importance. (OK, feel free to swat a mosquito or two, but the rest of the group is generally harmless and worth your respect.)

Reptiles, which generally prefer warmer and drier habitats than what predominates at Mount Rainier, are fairly rare. Some garter snakes and rubber boas, as well as a few northern alligator lizards, live in the park, but that pretty much completes the list. Amphibians, on the other hand, are abundant. In fact, in many of the park’s forest habitats, the biomass (total weight) of amphibians is thought to exceed that of all other vertebrate groups combined. Observant hikers stand a good chance of spotting many species of frogs and salamanders, including western toads, tailed frogs, Cascades frogs, long-toed and Pacific giant salamanders, and rough-skinned newts. One concern when it comes to amphibians is the introduction of fish into lakes that evolved without them. In particular, predation by introduced trout is thought to be responsible for the elimination of many salamander species from several of the park’s lakes.

Birds are perhaps the most conspicuous group of animals noticed by park visitors. Several dozen species regularly use the park either as permanent residents or as transients that migrate through the area or that arrive in the spring to nest through the summer months. Almost every hiker is sure to see such abundant and conspicuous species as Steller’s jays, common ravens, Clark’s nutcrackers, and dark-eyed juncos. With more careful observation you will notice that the different species typically stay in particular habitats found in the park’s distinct life zones. With this knowledge it becomes easier to know what to look for in each environment and to identify the types of feathered friends you encounter. In the park’s low-elevation forests, for example, you should keep an eye out for red-breasted nuthatches, brown creepers, varied thrushes, winter wrens, hairy woodpeckers, chestnut-backed chickadees, and olive-sided flycatchers. Very lucky and observant visitors may see the threatened northern spotted owl, which makes its home in these dense forests. Birds that are characteristic of the midelevation forests include Wilson’s and yellow-rumped warblers, golden-crowned kinglets, hermit thrushes, pine siskins, blue grouses, mountain chickadees, and gray jays. In the high-elevation meadows you may be fortunate enough to spot violet-green swallows, rufous hummingbirds, red-tailed hawks, mountain bluebirds, Cassin’s finches, and horned larks. The alpine areas have the fewest birds, but you may run across gray-crowned rosy finches or white-tailed ptarmigans. Along the park’s many rivers and streams you stand a good chance of seeing birds that prefer the watery environment, including American dippers, belted kingfishers, great blue herons, or the rare but quite beautiful harlequin ducks.

Despite an abundance of wonderfully pure and unpolluted water, fish are uncommon at Mount Rainier. Unfortunately, downstream dams have blocked the passage of native steelhead as well as chinook and coho salmon to most of the park’s rivers, though these magnificent fish can still sometimes be observed in the Carbon and White river systems. Fish are not native to any of the park’s lakes, but stocking has brought several species of trout to these pristine waters. Changes in NPS management policies halted the stocking of fish in 1972, but small, self-sustaining populations of brook, rainbow, and cutthroat trout remain in many lakes. In the rivers and streams not cut off by downstream waterfalls are native populations of coastal cutthroat trout, steelhead, and Dolly Varden and/or bull trout. In general, the numbers of fish are too small to draw many anglers, and few Wonderland Trail hikers carry fishing equipment.

Though only a small part of the entire wildlife picture, mammals are what most people think of when discussing the animals of Mount Rainier National Park. Only a few mammals are abundant and easily observed. These include small rodents such as Douglas’ squirrels and golden-mantled ground squirrels and larger animals such as black-tailed deer, which are often seen in meadows early or late in the day. Like the birds, most mammals are habitat specialists that generally stay within their preferred life zones. The voles, shrews, and other tiny animals that inhabit the forests are rarely seen, but you almost certainly will see Townsend’s chipmunks during your hike, and in the evenings it is common to see small bats feasting on insects. If you are very lucky, you may see somewhat larger mammals such as porcupines, snowshoe hares, or pine martens. In rocky areas at higher elevations, look for pikas, shy but exceptionally cute little guinea pig–like animals with rounded ears. They emit a high-pitched “meep” sound that is quite distinctive. Another high-elevation species that you will likely see is the hoary marmot, which is about the size of an overweight house cat. These mammals dig holes in the meadows for their homes and belt out a high whistling sound when alarmed by predators or passing hikers.

Hoary marmot in Moraine Park

Mountain goats on snowfield south of Panhandle Gap

Large mammals that inhabit the park include Roosevelt elk (which are most often seen in the meadows in the eastern part of the park), black bears, coyotes, and mountain goats. The last species prefers high-elevation crags, snowfields, and ridges and is most commonly seen by Wonderland Trail hikers on Emerald Ridge, Goat Island Mountain, and Skyscraper Mountain, and near Panhandle Gap. A partial listing of some of the rarely seen mammals in the park includes river otters, mountain lions, bobcats, northern flying squirrels, and striped skunks.

WEATHER

Apart from a possible illness or injury along the way, nothing will affect your comfort and enjoyment of the Wonderland Trail more than the weather.

As is true throughout the Pacific Northwest, the weather on Mount Rainier is primarily influenced by its proximity to the Pacific Ocean and the string of moisture-laden storms that roll in off that enormous body of water throughout much of the year. During the rainy season, which normally runs about October–May but which occasionally lasts all summer, a seemingly endless series of storms hit the region, usually following a northwest to southeast track. Some of the moisture is extracted by the Olympic Mountains to the west, but there is still plenty of water left by the time the clouds reach the area. The enormous topographic relief of the mountain forces the clouds to climb, and the process progressively squeezes out more precipitation. Thus, at lower elevations on the mountain, the average annual precipitation ranges from “only” 60–80 inches, while at higher elevations that number climbs to 100 inches or more. After passing over the mountain the clouds have lost much of their moisture, which places the east side of Mount Rainier around Sunrise or Summerland in the rain shadow, or more accurately around here the “snow shadow.” As a result, these areas are somewhat drier than the west side, though they are still a long way from arid. By the time the storms have made their way over the entire Cascade Range and are passing over central Washington, so much of the water has been extracted that the area is a semidesert with only 15 inches or so of annual precipitation.

During the long winters, the vast majority of precipitation falls as snow, and for a significant percentage of the year all or almost all of Mount Rainier National Park is covered with snow. Fortunately, that is not when you will (or at least should) be hiking the Wonderland Trail. So while it is interesting that Paradise is considered the snowiest place on Earth (at least among locations where snow is regularly measured), with a staggering annual average of more than 50 feet, this really affects you only when considering how long into the season it will take for the previous winter’s snowpack to melt off the trail.

During the summer months, when rational people hike the trail, the weather is a lot more benign. But that is not to say that you should plan on it being 60–70ºF and sunny every day of your hike. In fact, the chances of that happening for the 10–14 days that it takes to complete the trip are just about zero. Even in July and August (generally the best weather months) hail, snow, high winds, fog, blizzards, and especially rain can and do occur, and hikers must be prepared to face these elements. Quality raingear and a good tent are absolute necessities. Attempting the trail without these is a recipe for a great deal of discomfort and possibly disaster. The usual late July or August day on the mountain is partly sunny with a high of 60–75ºF, lows in the 40s, and a light breeze or wind, especially at higher elevations. This sounds (and is) very pleasant. Unfortunately, mountain weather in general, and on Mount Rainier in particular, is unpredictable. A clear sky can turn into clouds and rain or even snow in a remarkably short period of time. Check the weather forecasts and watch the skies carefully so you are prepared for what is coming.

Thunderstorms, though not nearly as common on Mount Rainier as they are in places such as the southern Rocky Mountains, should be expected from time to time during the summer. If you see a thunderstorm developing, and especially if you see lightning, do not leave the lowlands and climb into the high country. Instead, wait down in the forest for the storm to pass before beginning your ascent. If you find yourself already in the high country when a thunderstorm comes along, then get off that open ridgetop and hightail it back down into forested terrain. Very few areas along the Wonderland Trail remain above timberline for so long that you couldn’t simply pick up the pace for a while and find yourself back down in the relative safety of the forest. Typically, thunderstorms last for only an hour or two and then you can resume your trek.

Rays of sun through fog near Golden Lakes

A NOTE ABOUT PHOTOGRAPHY

The good news is that if the weather cooperates, you don’t have to be Ansel Adams to take stunning photos while hiking the Wonderland Trail. In fact, much of the time, you’d almost have to be trying not to take beautiful pictures. Simply point your camera at the mountain and shoot. The scenery is so outstanding that it’s pretty hard to mess things up.

Of course, there are plenty of techniques to help you turn those already good pictures into great ones. Photography books devote hundreds of pages to special lighting techniques, the latest filters, backlighting ideas, and other technical stuff that is really only useful for the advanced photographer. I maintain that the most important thing to do if you want to take beautiful pictures is much more low-tech: go to beautiful places! Fortunately, by hiking the Wonderland Trail, you already have that one covered. So step two is to go to beautiful places at the right time. Make a point to climb that ridge above camp as the sun goes down to catch the sunset. Plan your hike so the sun is at your back (not shining directly into the camera lens) when you want to take a picture of the mountain over that classic meadow or lake. Get up early in the morning to catch a mirrorlike reflection in the lake before the wind picks up and ruins things. You get the idea. A little planning will result in much better pictures than if you rely solely on luck.

The next tip is to keep your camera easily accessible. This will allow you to take candid pictures of your hiking companions and obtain that spur-of-the-moment wildlife shot before the animal runs away. Perhaps even more important, having your camera right at hand has a psychological advantage because people whose photo gear is buried deep in the pack will often talk themselves out of taking what might turn out to be a great picture, just because they don’t want to go to the trouble of digging the camera out of its hiding place.

Next, when you have what looks to be a great scene, be sure to take 1) lots of pictures (remember, these days it only costs you digital memory; you aren’t out a penny for wasted film), 2) pictures from several different angles, and 3) shots that are framed with a tree on the side, flowers in the foreground, interesting clouds in the sky, and so on. These extra elements often make all the difference in the world in the overall quality of your photographs.

One more tip: Because you will undoubtedly be taking lots of pictures, be sure to carry an extra camera battery and a spare memory card. The odds are good that you will need both.

A final very important point about photography involves protecting your equipment. Local weather patterns being what they are, water protection for your camera should be considered a necessity. In addition, with all the rugged terrain along the Wonderland Trail, the occasional fall or bump into a tree is common enough that more than one expensive camera has broken or had its delicate electronic systems damaged. It is important, therefore, that you use good (and tough) camera equipment and protect it in a waterproof case.

Small pond in Indian Henry’s Hunting Ground

If you are camped at lower elevations during a stretch of good weather in the summer months, especially on the west side of the mountain near Longmire or along the Carbon or Mowich Rivers, you stand a good chance of waking up beneath a heavy layer of low clouds. This common phenomenon is the result of cool marine air pushing in clouds from Puget Sound and is rarely cause for concern. More often than not, the cloud deck is covering only the lowlands, and once you climb above 3,500 or 4,000 feet you will be in wonderful sunshine. By later in the day the clouds usually burn off, even at lower elevations.

Finally, there is the often-stated fact that Mount Rainier makes its own weather. Because the mountain is so much higher than everything else in the neighborhood, it frequently pokes its nose into the jet stream and gathers clouds around its summit. Thus, it is not uncommon for visitors at lower elevations to be bathed in calm and sunshine while looking up at a mountain (or, more precisely, a cloud bank where the mountain ought to be) where the conditions are very windy and either raining or snowing. Even more common is for hikers to see lenticular clouds, which form over the summit when warm air from the ocean meets the cold of the mountaintop and condenses into clouds. Usually these very photogenic clouds are either mushroom-shaped right over the top of the peak or strung out as high-level winds push them to the east. Lenticular clouds often indicate that the moisture content of the atmosphere is rising and a storm may be on the way.

A Word about Mileages

Hikers who feel the need to know exact mileages are bound to notice something along the Wonderland Trail—you cannot trust the NPS signs. The only thing you can rely on with these signs is that they will be inconsistent. On countless occasions you will be told at one end of a trail that the distance is a specific total, and then upon reaching the other end find a sign telling you that the distance you just covered is actually 0.3 mile or more different. In fairness, part of the problem is that the trail’s mileage is constantly in flux. The climate here is very tough on trails. Every year trail crews are forced to reroute sections of the Wonderland Trail to detour around flood damage, washouts, and landslides. In addition, during the high water of spring and early summer, dozens of streams and rivers in the park change their course, forcing seasonal bridges to be moved, slightly altering the trail’s total distance.

Many years ago a frustrated guidebook author had a friend get out a measuring wheel and do her own mileage numbers. She was so obsessed with numbers that she even went so far as to tell readers the exact length of every one of the hundreds of bridges along the Wonderland Trail. I am not that extreme, so in doing this book I did not take new measurements, though for maximum accuracy I have generally used the numbers from her book. For new trail sections, or for places where the path has been significantly rerouted, I have used a combination of NPS signs and my own pedometer readings. When I wrote this book, these measurements were as close to accurate as I could reasonably make them. Mother Nature is far from finished with her annual changes, however, so expect the mileages to vary somewhat over time.

That said, despite my training as a certified public accountant, I am not particularly obsessed with mileage numbers and have never seen the functional difference between a distance of, say, 3.9 miles and 4.2 miles. It simply won’t change my hiking plans one way or another based on which figure is accurate. Factors such as the elevation gain, trail conditions, my level of tiredness, and the weather all make far more difference in hiking time and enjoyment than knowing the mileage down to the nearest tenth. To me the NPS signs are usually close enough. It’s mostly a function of attitude. Still, for those of you who just can’t live without exact numbers, you will be glad to know that someone at the NPS (who apparently had way too much time on his or her hands) once produced an information sheet telling hikers that the Wonderland Trail (excluding any side trips and the inevitable walking to and around camp) has a total distance of 92.172 miles and a total elevation gain of 22,786 feet. (Unless, of course, you happen to park one or two slots farther away in the parking lot or have to take an extra step around a fallen log, and then your totals will be completely different.)