Cover
Title Page
Dedication
Epigraph
Maps
List of Illustrations
Introduction
1 Long ago on the Ganges
2 The first sight of the river
3 Life at Hardwar
4 Down the Ganges
5 Through the Bhabar
6 The way to the Balawali Bridge
7 A short halt at a railway station
8 An encounter with a bridgekeeper
9 Terra firma
10 A journey through Uttar Pradesh
11 A place in the country
12 From a carriage window
13 Remembrance of things past
14 Slow boat to Kanpur
15 Christmas at Kanpur
16 The Ganges at Prayag
17 The way to Mirzapur
18 The fort at Chunar
19 A stay at Banaras
20 The day of Makara Sankranti
21 From Patna to Bankipore and back
22 Cooking a Baffat
23 The islands at Colganj
24 Into the Bhagirathi
25 Arrival at Calcutta
26 Down to the sea
Plates
About the Author
Praise
Also by the Author
Copyright
About the Publisher
Footnotes
