Читать книгу The Ghana Cookbook - Fran Osseo-Asare - Страница 19
ОглавлениеGhanaian Basic Tomato Gravy
Just as Brazilian cooking often begins with preparation of a base called a refogado, or Spanish Caribbean cooking uses a sofrito, in Ghana many stews begin with a simple “gravy,” made from oil, sliced or chopped onions, sliced or chopped fresh tomatoes (or canned tomatoes or tomato paste), likely chili peppers (fresh or dried and ground), and sometimes fresh garlic and/or ginger. The oil may be canola, soy, peanut, corn, palm, coconut, or other vegetable oil, each with a distinctive flavor. In contemporary middle-class Ghanaian homes, expensive imported olive oil is more often finding its way into recipes for stews and sauces. This popularity is based on the perception that olive oil is healthier than traditional oils. It does, however, impart a “non-Ghanaian” flavor to the food.
From this combination, other vegetables and/or protein sources can be added. This list includes an endless variety of greens, eggplant, pumpkin, cowpeas, eggs, fresh and/or smoked/dried fish and shrimp, seeds, and nuts. The gravy is also a base for one-pots where rice or gari (cassava meal) are added to make Ghanaian classics reminiscent of fried rice, Spanish rice, or paella (see Gari Foto and Jollof Rice recipes, pages 152 and 156). This basic sauce can also stand on its own merits and be served with many of the recipes in this book, from Rice and Beans (Waakye) to Jollof or Coconut Rice, Banku, Ampesi (Boiled Starchy Vegetables), or Fried Ripe Plantains, etc. Also, it is easy to add things to it, from fresh or dried or smoked fish and seafood, poultry, snails, mutton, pork, beef, or goat to vegetables or ground seeds or nuts, singly and in combination.
But classically, tomato gravy only requires oil, onion, tomato, chili pepper, and salt. For health reasons, I have halved the amount of oil used in Ghana.
North American vs. Ghanaian: Ghanaian gravy is not your typical American gravy. After I married and invited my brother-in-law Kwaku and his family to my home in Pennsylvania to experience a typical “American Thanksgiving,” Kwaku kept looking past that brown stuff at the table for the familiar red sauce that would make his bland mashed potatoes and roast turkey edible. Several times he asked “But where’s the gravy?” before I realized what was happening.
Makes about 2 cups
Version 1: Everyday Tomato Gravy
Ingredients
2 to 4 tablespoons vegetable oil (palm, peanut, canola, etc.)
1 large onion or several scallions, peeled and sliced or chopped (1 cup)
1 heaping teaspoon crushed or minced garlic (optional)
1 heaping teaspoon grated or minced fresh ginger (optional)
2 cups sliced or diced tomatoes
Chili pepper, to taste (use as much of a seeded and chopped habanero or Scotch bonnet [hot] or jalapeno [mild] as desired—for beginners, a thin slice will do); or ⅛ teaspoon dried ground red pepper to begin with and adjust to taste (more can be added, but the reverse is not true)
½ teaspoon salt or seasoned salt (or to taste)
1 heaping teaspoon canned tomato paste
½ cup water or stock
Directions
1. Heat the oil in a skillet on medium heat for 2 minutes. Add the onions to the hot oil and sauté for 2 minutes. Stir in the garlic and ginger, if using, and sauté 2 or 3 minutes more.
2. Stir in the tomatoes, chili pepper, and salt. Stir in tomato paste and water or stock.
3. Simmer about 15 minutes on medium-low heat, or until the gravy has thickened to the desired consistency, stirring occasionally. Adjust the seasonings.
Version 2: A Smoother Tomato Gravy
Ingredients
1 large onion, peeled and coarsely chopped
2 cloves garlic, peeled
1-inch piece fresh ginger, peeled and coarsely chopped (optional)
3 or 4 medium tomatoes or 1 (14.5 ounce) can diced tomatoes
¼ cup oil
⅛ to ¼ teaspoon dried ground red pepper (or more to taste)
1½ teaspoons canned tomato paste
½ teaspoon salt or seasoned salt (or to taste)
½ cup water or stock
Directions
1. Put the onion, garlic, and ginger into a blender or food processor. Add 2 tablespoons of water. Blend until smooth, pausing and using a spatula to push mixture down if necessary. Pour the mixture into a bowl and set aside while preparing the tomatoes.
2. Peel (and deseed, if desired) the tomatoes. Put them in the (unwashed) blender or food processor and puree.
3. Heat oil in a large frying pan on medium heat for 2 minutes. Add pureed onion mixture and sauté for 5 minutes on medium-low heat.
4. Stir in the pureed tomatoes, ground red pepper, tomato paste, salt, and ½ cup water or stock (use the water to rinse out the blender container before adding it to the pan, if desired).
5. Simmer about 15 minutes on medium-low heat, stirring occasionally, until the gravy has thickened to the desired consistency. Adjust seasonings. This “gravy” should be a thick sauce, too thick to pour.
Variations: Cooks often add their favorite seasonings to the gravy, such as a little ground nutmeg, white pepper, curry powder, or a crumbled seasoning cube.
