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WALK 2

Rifugio Biella and Croda del Becco

Start/Finish	Hotel Lago di Braies
Distance	16.5km/10.2 miles
Ascent/Descent	950m (add an extra 450m for Croda del Becco)
Grade	2 (Grade 3 for Croda del Becco)
Time	5hr 30min (add 2hr for Croda del Becco)
Maps	Tabacco n.031 scale 1:25,000
Access	See Walk 1

If an excursion is made to Ausser Brags, a noble view is presented of the massive square-edged wall of the See Kofel, impending over a small lake, and rising to a height of 9,200 feet. Its upper beds belong to the Jura formation, and are stained with red, as are portions of many of the neighbouring peaks. Its dark form, as seen from Cortina, when backed by storm clouds, looks marvellously like a gigantic elephant uprearing itself.

J Gilbert and GC Churchill (1864)

You climb the ‘elephant’ itself in the course of this walk, which starts out from the ‘small lake’ Lago di Braies. It is a memorable picture-postcard alpine lake, with turquoise-emerald waters fringed with peaceful beaches and sheer cliffs.

This is the Fanes-Sennes-Braies Nature Park, something of a haven for wildlife. Although bears, wolves and lynx were effectively wiped out in the late 1800s, there are still plenty of animals to see: playful marmots, chamois grazing on open rocky hillsides, roe deer in the cover of the woods and a range of trout in the lake. Chances of encounters with the stately ibex are good for those who venture up Croda del Becco (also known as Seekofel in German and Sass dla Porta in Ladin).

The walk itself is an exciting circuit, but it is lengthy and tiring, so plenty of drinking water and sun protection is needed. It follows the opening stage of the popular long-distance path Alta Via 1 (AV1) as far as Rifugio Biella, which is a great spot for lunch and the start for the optional ascent of Croda del Becco. Highly recommended and extremely rewarding, although unsuitable for inexperienced walkers, it entails a further 450m climb on a partially exposed and aided route.

Rifugio Biella is also visited on Walk 4, which approaches from the S.

The aided climb en route to Rifugio Biella

Walk

The start is the same as for Walk 1, so from Hotel Lago di Braies (1494m) head S on the broad track (signed for n.1 and Rifugio Biella) along the western shore of the lake, past the chapel and through shady pines. Ignore the turn-off W for Val di Foresta near a shingle beach that gives access to the lake and awesome views of massive Croda del Becco. It’s not far to the key fork R, where path n.1 (also AV1) breaks off SSE (30min) and where Walk 2 leaves the route used for Walk 1. Continue on the path to cross extensive scree flows where dwarf mountain pines and alpenrose have taken root. You climb steadily, nearing the eastern flanks of Croda del Becco, with zigzags taking the sting out of the slope and the odd bench providing relief. A reinforced wooden walkway and chain allows you to round a crumbling cliff face then, after a rise, you reach a 2034m junction with path n.4, which is the return route. Keep straight ahead on n.1.

Croda del Becco from Forcella Sora Forno

The wood is much thicker and shadier now, and the lake is left well behind as you penetrate the inner silent valleys. As an imposing rock barrier is surmounted on a zigzag path aided by fixed chains, the going is relentless. Ignore a fork L (2186m, path n.3) before the path enters the forbidding corridor aptly named Forno, which is a ‘furnace’ on scorching summer days when the towering rock flanks block out any hopes of a breeze.

You eventually emerge at the minor pass Forcella Sora Forno (2388m, 2hr 50min), which overlooks a refuge on the edge of a vast plateau. This is the start point for the optional but highly recommended ascent of Croda del Becco.

Croda del Becco (2hr return time)

If you feel up to a further 450m climb, this entails a partially exposed aided stretch, which may feel more difficult in descent. For anyone with a head for heights and an appreciation of spectacular views, it is essential on a good weather day. You zigzag up the steep southeastern corner of the mountain and soon reach fixed chain, where the path is a little exposed along near vertical rock strata. The top section is wider and levels out somewhat keeping to the L side of the crest, and cairns mark the way. It becomes surprisingly grassy and you may see the rock grouse that nest here, if not the well-established herd of ibex that graze peacefully, ignoring the tourists. A cross marks the summit of Croda del Becco (2810m, 1hr 15min), a simply breathtaking spot where 360° views take in a surprising number of Dolomites, including Picco di Vallandro to the E and the Tre Cime di Lavaredo further back, the Tofane S and even the Puez altopiano SW, not to mention the lake at your feet and the snow-capped Austrian ranges spreading across the northern horizon. Return the same way, taking extra care on the aided section.

From the Forcella Sora Forno (2388m) pass it’s a short downhill walk to the cream stone building Rifugio Biella (2327m, 10min), an exemplary old-style refuge where generous slices of home-made, mouth-watering tarts and Apfelstrudel are hard to resist.

Path n.28 entails a gradual ascent E to a rocky crest studded with edelweiss. As you’re a little way back from Croda del Becco now, its regular onion-skin layers of limestone are clearer, as is its crazily tilted 45° angle. The airy ridge gives wonderful outlooks, including a bird’s eye view of Lago di Fosses below the Remeda Rossa. Watch your step, however, as the way is pitted with hollows where precious soil has collected and an astonishing range of blooms flourish, such as pink cinquefoil.

From Forcella Cocodain (30min, 2332m), a faint route thick with wildflowers and marked by occasional red and white paint stripes leads due N down the regular rock strata. After some 20min of clambering you join path n.3 and turn R. Only minutes away, a 2225m fork signed for n.4 leads easily L (NW) down into a grazing basin often populated by cows. The valley narrows after passing diminutive Lago del Giavo, and you then drop to rejoin n.1 at the 2034m junction (1hr).

Once back at the Lago di Braies water’s edge, keep R for the delightful path along the rocky eastern shore. You pass a waterfall before a raised walkway leads round a rocky point, followed by a marshy stretch back to Hotel Lago di Braies (1494m, 1hr).

Rifugio Biella Tel 0436 866991, June to September rifugiobiella@libero.it.

A male ibex on Croda del Becco