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WALK 4

Alpe di Sennes Circuit

Start/Finish	Rifugio Ra Stua
Distance	17km/10.5 miles
Ascent/Descent	830m
Grade	1–2
Time	5hr 20min (can be shortened to 3hr)
Maps	Tabacco n.03 scale 1:25,000
Access	On the SS51, the signed turn-off for Rifugio Ra Stua is 8km N of Cortina (near Sant’Uberto where the road curves tightly E towards Dobbiaco). The narrow 3km access road that follows is closed to traffic from mid-July to mid-September, when a shuttle bus from the Fiames Dolomiti d’Ampezzo Park office covers the distance. Car parking is, in fact, an easier proposition at Fiames. Moreover, local Cortina buses as well as SAD services stop there.

The ancient hunting castle of Sant’Uberto used to stand on a prominent hillock just off the main road from Cortina and, as the story goes, it belonged to two venerable English ladies who were forced to abandon it at the outbreak of the First World War. Set in no-man’s land, its well-stocked cellar received regular visits under the cover of night from both Austrian and Italian troops in the early days of the conflict, although (reportedly) nothing as slight as a skirmish ever broke out, each side preferring to stagger back in silence to its respective camp loaded with precious provisions. At a later date the castle was shelled to smithereens but the place name survived on maps. Sant’Uberto is set at the narrow mouth of the beautiful valley that leads to the Alpe di Sennes uplands, today’s destination.

This walk embraces a marvellous range of scenery and habitats. It includes two neighbouring nature parks – Dolomiti d’Ampezzo and Fanes-Sennes-Braies – that are home to veritable hordes of ibex, chamois, roe deer and marmots along with their inevitable ‘companion’ birds of prey. Grandiose Dolomite groups headed by Croda Rossa are foremost features, their lower flanks cloaked by flourishing woods of a healthy mix of evergreen conifer and deciduous species. A visit is feasible throughout the glorious summer and as late as October, which is a magical time for the stunning russet hues and golden ‘rain’ from the larch trees. Four particularly hospitable rifugi are touched on, which are marvellous lunch or refreshment stops, as well as cosy places to stay.

The outward stages of the walk follow clear, easy tracks and paths, while the conclusion is a rather steep path, although this can be avoided by shortcutting down Val Salata. Families will enjoy this route, if they ever get past the central valley where attractive gurgling streams seem to act as a magnet on youngsters.

Rifugio Fodara Vedla and the Croda Rossa

A superb follow-up is a visit to the nearby Cascata di Fanes (signposted access near Sant’Uberto). With its 70m drop, it is held to be the highest in the Dolomites.

Walk

Rifugio Ra Stua (1668m) is a hut-cum-dairy farm set in an ample picturesque pasture basin between Croda Rossa ENE and Lavinores W. Dotted with photogenic timber huts, this was occupied by a vast spread of Austrian tents from 1915 to 1917, when it acted as a key sorting and storage point. The name Stua comes from ‘dam’, as the nearby stream used to be blocked to operate machinery for the old medieval quarry of red stone. Further up the slope, don’t miss the magnificent giant Arolla pines – they’re 300 years old!

Take the main track (n.6) N along Vallon Scuro to Campo Croce (1758m, 20min), in marshland fed by meanders of Torrente Boite – according to hearsay, local shepherds diverted watercourses such as this to curb the impetuous flow and make more drinking water available for their animals. Turn L on n.9, a stony track and former wartime mule route. It winds its steady way W through Arolla pine and larch, levelling out at the 1950m mark to traverse lovely grassy basins dotted with bushes and dwarf mountain pines, perfect habitats for both shy chamois and marmots. Evidence of the natural phenomenon of karstification is plentiful, with grooved rock surfaces and sinkholes. You then pass puddle-sized Lago de Rudo (1990m), backed by the impressive inclined slabs of Lavinores. Not far along, you come to the delightful basin housing a batch of old timber huts and Rifugio Fodara Vedla (1966m, 1hr), with a lovely view E to Croda Rossa.

Path n.7 starts off as a jeep track but 10min uphill a marked path branches N through the shrubs, climbing over a panoramic ridge where Croda del Becco and Croda Rossa come into view. The jeep track is rejoined for the rest of the way to Rifugio Sennes (2126m, 40min), set in rather bare surrounds (although apparently satisfactory for the herds of robust cows around).

At this point, should the final section look too long and tiring, by all means take the short cut to Campo Croce.

Exit to Campo Croce (45min)

A matter of minutes E of Rifugio Sennes, you reach the fork for the straightforward jeep track (n.6A) that drops SE via Val Salata under the line of cliffs that sweep down from the Remeda Rossa plateau. The source of the River Boite, which waters Cortina and later joins the Piave, is on the final stretch to Campo Croce (1758m).

The panoramic terrace at Rifugio Biella

Instead of the lane that takes a broad sweep E then N for Rifugio Biella, a more varied and interesting path (n.6) cuts NE over a ridge. Leave Rifugio Sennes uphill due N on a rough track, turning off R near a low shed. You quickly reach undulating terrain with masses of gentians, edelweiss and marmots, Croda del Becco visible with its trademark shiny grey inclined slabs. The path drops gradually to join the lane heading E for Rifugio Biella (2327m, 1hr), the panorama ranging SW to the Tofane and Pelmo. This hut is run by an alpine guide with a lifetime of experience in the world’s mountains. It can also be reached on Walk 2.

From the hut’s flagpole n.26 picks its way through the rocks SSE. Across open terrain where both rock ptarmigan nest and marmots burrow, you drop to lovely Lago di Fosses (2162m, 45min), which looks inviting for a refreshing dip in the shade of the artistic layers of the Remeda Rossa. The lakes here formed among layers of peat on top of a waterproof clay base, which prevents the water disappearing underground.

Once past the far end of the lake, signposts point you SE for a brief rise and saddle that provides access to a desolate side valley at the foot of impressive Piccola Croda Rossa (E). A further lake, Lago di Remeda Rossa, is usually dried up. Shortly, the clear path cuts down diagonally R (S) into a lovely flowered basin, which leads into dwarf mountain pines and a rough, tiring descent over loose rocks. You eventually emerge on the jeep track at Campo Croce (1772m, 1hr 15min), which leads to Rifugio Ra Stua (1668m, 20min).

Rifugio Biella Tel 0436 866991, June to September rifugiobiella@libero.it

Rifugio Fodara Vedla Tel 0474 501093, June to October www.fodara.it

Rifugio Ra Stua Tel 0436 5753, May to October www.malgarastua.com

Rifugio Sennes Tel 0474 501092, June to October www.sennes.com