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CORFU’S NORTHEAST

The descent path below Old Perithia (Walk 3 and Corfu Trail, Stage 10)

Life in the island’s northeast is lived in the shadow of the sprawling limestone massif of the Pandokratoras. Soaring to 911m above sea level, for the most part this is arid pasture land for wandering goats who can survive on thorny scrub. For walkers the rocky mountain means lengthy slogs across rugged terrain with little shade – but the upsides are solitude and huge views over the sparkling Ionian Sea to scattered islands and the mainland. The mountainsides slope down through dense woodland and extensive olive plantations to beautiful coastlines. To the east the sheltered coast juts out into the Straits of Corfu, mere kilometres from Albania. Thousands of escapees swam to Corfu or paddled across on tyre inner tubes in 1990, after communism in the country collapsed and its borders opened up. These days the shore is a string of enchantingly small, secluded coves with pebble beaches and inviting tavernas. It is a favourite with upmarket yachting types, which is sometimes reflected in accommodation and restaurant prices. The main coast road links Ipsos and Barbati with Kassiopi and Aharavi, and is served by buses throughout the summer months.

Walk 1 takes a stroll along the delightful coastal path that links up all the lovely bays between Kaminaki and Kerasia. Places with accommodation en route include Nissaki bay (sometimes referred to as Krouzeri beach), with apartments and a large multi-starred hotel. Kalami, on the other hand, is located a short way off the main coast road (15min on foot from the bus stop) and is a quiet place to stay. At one end of its beach stands an attractive landmark villa, The White House, former home of the writer Lawrence Durrell. Its other claim to fame is as the bay where Sir Timothy Havelock and his wife are assassinated in the Bond film For Your Eyes Only. Kalami is also the start point for Walk 2, a memorable circuit embracing both coast and mountain.

Kaminaki beach where the coastal path begins

In surprising contrast is the northern coastline, with beautiful long sandy beaches flanked by low rocky headlands culminating in Cape Agia Ekaterinis, the northernmost point of Corfu, which encloses Lake Andiniotissa, a protected nature area and haven for birds and otters. The headland is explored in Walk 4 and the long-distance Corfu Trail concludes nearby.

Not far inland – 8km due south but 420m above sea level on the mountain’s flank – is the atmospheric village of Old Perithia, reputedly a Byzantine settlement but in all probability much older. Only a handful of people call it home during summer, and they run local restaurants, cafés and a boutique B&B. The CT transits here, as does Walk 3.

Down at sea level, the sprawling township of Aharavi (also spelt ‘Acharavi’) makes a good base for the area, with plenty of shops, accommodation and year-round bus links with Corfu Town, not to mention a lovely 7km-long sandy beach. Walk 5 begins there.