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WALK 2

Kalami to Menegoulas loop

Start/Finish	Kalami
Distance	15km
Ascent/Descent	550m/550m
Grade	2–3
Walking time	5hr
Refreshments	Porta, Kaminaki, Nissaki bay, Agni, Kalami
Access	Kalami is 1.5km off the main coastal road: if you catch the bus (Kassiopi line), ask the driver where to get off; from the bus stop it’s 20min on foot down to the waterfront where the walk starts

This is an excellent – if long and tiring – circuit above the northeastern coast, for which walking boots are recommended. The walk starts at the lovely bay of Kalami, which boasts a quiet pebble beach, a supermarket and a scatter of smart tavernas. The way climbs through olive groves and small villages to the austere, arid middle reaches of the island’s highest mountain, Oros Pandokratoras (Mount Pandokratoras). Afterwards it plunges back to the glorious coast for an exceptionally pretty jaunt from cove to cove: walkers are spoilt for choice of swimming spots. The route is inadvisable in hot weather due to the ascent involved and the longish stretches where shade is a scarce commodity. Take plenty of water and food; the only café on the inland stretch is located at Porta, although once you’re back on the seafront they are plentiful. Waymarking is fairly good except on the mountain, so follow the directions carefully.

The walk starts at the lovely bay of Kalami, which boasts a quiet pebble beach, a supermarket and a scatter of smart tavernas as well as the White House, the unmistakable cube building at the southern end, once the residence of members of the Durrell family.

Leave the southernmost end of Kalami by passing in front of the White House, then take the road uphill. As it bends right, go left on a concrete lane down through olive groves to where a path continues past vegetable gardens to the lovely secluded cove of Gialiskari beach. Turn immediately right up a white rock-based way, then soon left on a path alongside a wire fence. This leads over to pretty Agni beach. Walk past the inviting cafés and continue straight through the premises of friendly Nikolas Taverna and up past a large white stone house. Not far along you leave the coastal path and fork right on a path with yellow paint markers. This climbs steadily past private villas. You cross a road then proceed on an old stepped and paved way through well-graded terraces of olives and cypress trees. Where houses are reached, keep straight on along an alleyway and up to the square of Kentroma (40min) for views all the way to Corfu Town.

Pretty Agni beach