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WALK 1

Kaminaki to Kerasia coastal path

Start/Finish	Kaminaki
Distance	10.5km
Ascent/Descent	50m/50m
Grade	1–2
Walking time	3hr 30min (1hr 45min one-way)
Refreshments	Kaminaki, Nissaki bay, Agni, Kalami, Kouloura, Kerasia
Access	Kaminaki – and indeed all of the main beaches visited during the walk – are accessible by car, mostly down steep narrow roads off the main coastal artery. If you catch the bus (Kassiopi line), tell the driver you want to get off at the turnoff for Kaminaki; from the bus stop it’s 15min on foot down to the waterfront where the walk starts – either follow the yellow Corfu Trail markers or take the road. At Kerasia, it’s 2km up to the road and the bus stop, if you conclude the walk there

This divine wander along Corfu’s rocky northeastern coast drops in at a string of pretty coves and bays. The mountainous Albanian mainland, only kilometres away across the straits, is a constant companion. Allow plenty of extra time, as you’ll be constantly distracted by seafront eateries and inviting swimming spots. The main beaches have pebbles rather than sand and are equipped with the usual sun beds, umbrellas and laid-back tavernas, but walkers are likely to have the other coves all to themselves. Don’t forget your swimming costume and sun protection. Most of the walk uses clear easy pathways, while a short stretch follows a quiet road. Trainers, not sandals, are recommended.

At charming Kaminaki, where the pebbly seafront is lined with tavernas, go L (NNE) to the end of the beach. Here a clear path leads along the rocky coast in the company of giant agave plants. Private secluded villas perched in scenic spots are passed. It’s not far to Nissaki bay, which is popular with the groups at the only big hotel on this stretch of coast. Continue past the swimming pool to the bar then go up and along the front of the hotel building to where the lovely path resumes, as does peace and quiet. Shaded by olive trees and flanked by bleached rocks, the way soon climbs steeply albeit briefly on steps circling private property. The glittering turquoise sea is constantly seen through the trees. Further along gradual descent concludes at lovely Agni beach. Here you walk through the premises of friendly Nikolas Taverna.

On the way to Agni beach

Once the jetty and other eateries have been passed you pick up the path once more, signed for Gialiskari beach. This climbs a little through holm oak wood on another lovely stretch leading to quiet Gialiskari beach, an expanse of pebbles in a secluded cove where yachts moor. Here fork left, following signs for Kalami. A wall of prickly pear shrubs and a vegetable plot are passed and it’s up to join a concreted lane through olive groves. At a tarmac road, continue straight ahead in descent for the short distance separating you from the landmark villa the White House.

The former residence of expatriate British writer Lawrence Durrell, the cube-shaped White House is now a charming restaurant with accommodation.

Immediately after the building take the steps to the waterfront and jetty and proceed along the beach of Kalami (1hr) with its eateries.

At the far end take the steps to the road and follow the tarmac up the hill to an intersection where you need the downhill fork for Kouloura. At the bottom you go right for the promontory housing highly photogenic Kouloura, with its petite harbour for fishing boats, taverna and 11th-century church.

The charming harbour at Kouloura

Backtrack to the last turnoff and keep straight ahead to the beach of Chouchoulio, shaded by towering eucalyptus trees. Near an old building at the far end is a path signed for Kerasia. This leads around the next point to a quiet pebble beach which concludes at low cliffs. These are avoided as the path forks left for a lovely wander across the low headland. Just after another small beach ignore the turn-off left for overgrown ‘Public path main road’ and keep on the level way in the company of masses of white sea squills and thorny bushes. Kerasia beach (45min) is a lovely conclusion to the walk. The long quiet pebbly beach is backed with shady eucalypts, and there’s a taverna at the far end.

Return the same way to Kaminaki (1hr 45min). Alternatively, if you want to call it a day here, look for the sign halfway along the beach pointing inland for a route leading up to the main road.