Читать книгу Surface Science and Adhesion in Cosmetics - Группа авторов - Страница 32
References
Оглавление1. L.H. Yeola, A.D. Maru, and R.K. Surwase, A review on lipstick by using indigenous vegetable wax, World J. Pharm. Pharm. Sci., 7, 1437–1446(2018).
2. H.S. Bui and D. Coleman-Nally, Film-forming technology and skin adhesion in long-wear cosmetics, in: Adhesion in Pharmaceutical, Biomedical and Dental Fields, K.L. Mittal and F.M. Etzler (Eds.), pp. 141-69. Wiley-Scrivener, Beverly, MA (2017).
3. R. Lochhead and M. Lochhead, Two decades of transfer-resistant lipstick, https://www.cosmeticsandtoiletries.com/research/chemistry/Two-Decades-of-Transfer-resistant-Lipstick-290207561.html (2015).
4. R. El-Khouri, Liquid lipstick compositions capable of forming a multilayer structure after application to lips, US Patent 20170281478, assigned to L’Oreal (2017).
5. P. Bernard, A. Hadasch, and B. Toumi, Long-lasting make-up kit and method, US Patent 20040052745A1, assigned to L’Oreal SA (2004).
6. K. L. Mittal, The role of the interface in adhesion phenomena, Polym. Eng. Sci., 17, 467–473 (1977).
7. R. Cavazzuti, B. K. Mattox, and M. Swanborough, Moisturizing and long-wearing make-up compositions, US Patent 6444212B1, assigned to L’Oreal (2002).
8. T. Wang, Long wear topical composition, US Patent 8545822B2, assigned to Dermaceutical Products Inc. (2012).
9. J. A. Szweda and C. A. Lutrario, Long wearing lipstick, US Patent 5667770A, assigned to Elizabeth Arden Company Division of Conopco Inc. (1996).
10. S. Foutsizoglou, Anatomy of the ageing lip, Plastic & Maxillo-Facial Surgery and Aesthetic Medicine News, 1–3 (April 2017).
11. M. A. Piccinin and P. M. Zito, Anatomy, Head and Neck, Lips, StatPearls Publishing, Treasure Island, FL (2018).
12. A. Luthra, Shaping lips with fillers, J. Cutan. Aesthet. Surg., 8, 139–142 (2015).
13. J.G. Betts, P. Desaix, E. Johnson, J.E. Johnson, O. Korol, D. Kruse, B. Poe, J.A. Wise, M. Womble, and K. Young, Anatomy & Physiology, p. 454, Rice University Press, Houston, TX (2013).
14. J. Carey, M. Cohen, C. Curry, K. Devriendt, L. Holmes, and A. Verloes, Elements of morphology: Standard terminology for the lips, mouth, and oral region, Am. J. Med. Genetics Part A, 149, 77–92 (2009).
15. M. Kar, N. B. Muluk, S. A. Bafaqeeh, and C. Cingi, Is it possible to define the ideal lips?, Acta Otorhinolaryngol Ital, 38, 67–72 (2018).
16. E.I. Gubanova and L. Caisey, The Lips: Shapes and Ageing An Aesthetic Atlas, pp. 16-87, Editions Med’Com, Paris, France (2012).
17. M. Satheesh and A. Yadav, Lip: An impressive and idealistic platform for drug delivery, J. Pharm. Res., 4, 1060–1062 (2011).
18. T. von Arx, K. Tamura, O. Yukiya, and S. Lozanoff, The face – a vascular perspective. A literature review, Swiss Dental J., 128, 382–392 (2018).
19. C. Crouzet, H. Fournier, X. Papon, N. Hentati, P. Cronier, and P. Mercier, Anatomy of the arterial vascularization of the lips, Surgical Radiological Anatomy, 20, 273–278(1998).
20. K. Takezawa, M. Ghabriel, and G. Townsend, The course and distribution of the buccal nerve: clinical relevance in dentistry, Aust. Dental J., 63, 66–71(2018).
21. V. F. Ferrario, C. Sforza, J. H. Schmitz, V. Ciusa, and A. Colombo, Normal growth and development of the lips: a 3-dimensional study from 6 years to adulthood using a geometric model, J. Anatomy, 196, 415–423(2000).
22. M.L. Fogel and M.F. Stranc, Lip function: a study of normal lip parameters, J. Plast. Surg., 37, 542–549 (1984).
23. L.M. Sjogreen, A. Lohmander, and S. Kiliaridis, Exploring quantitative methods for evaluation of lip function, J. Oral Rehabil., 38, 410–422 (2011).
24. V. Luboz, E. Promayon, and Y.Payan, Linear elastic properties of the facial soft tissues using an aspiration device: towards patient specific characterization, Annals Biomed. Eng., 11, 2369–2378 (2014).
25. A. Kalinin, L. N. Marekov, and P. M. Steinert, Assembly of the epidermal cornified cell envelope, J. Cell Sci., 114, 3069–3070 (2001).
26. P. Elias, R. Gruber, D. Crumrine, G. Menon, M. Williams, J. Wakefield, W. Holleran, and Y. Uchida, Formation and functions of the corneocyte lipid envelope (CLE), Biochim. Biophys. Acta, 1841, 314–318 (2014).
27. R. B. Presland and B. A. Dale, Epithelial structural proteins of the skin and oral cavity: function in health and disease, Crit. Rev. Oral Biol. Med., 11, 383– 408 (2000).
28. B. K. Bloor, N. Tidman, I.M. Leigh, E. Odell, B. Dogan, U. Wollina, L. Ghali, and A. Waseem, Expression of keratin K2e in cutaneous and oral lesions: association with keratinocyte activation, proliferation, and keratinization, Am. J. Pathol., 162, 963–975 (2003).
29. W. Roth, V. Kumar, H. Beer, M. Richter, C. Wohlenberg, U. Reuter, S. Thiering, A. Staratschek-Jox, A. Hofman, F. Kreusch, J. Schultze, T. Vogl, J. Roth, J. Reichelt, I. Hausser, and T. Magin, Keratin 1 maintains skin integrity and participates in an inflammatory network in skin through interleukin-18, J. Cell Sci., 125, 5269–5279 (2012).
30. T. Hirao, M. Denda, and M. Takahashi, Identification of immature cornified envelopes in the barrier-impaired epidermis by characterization of their hydrophobicity and antigenicities of the components, Expl. Dermatol., 10, 35–44 (2001).
31. T. Hirao, Involvement of transglutaminase in ex vivo maturation of cornified envelopes in the stratum corneum, Int. J. Cosmet. Sci., 25, 245–257 (2003).
32. H. Kobayashi and H. Tagami, Functional properties of the surface of the vermilion border of the lips are distinct from those of the facial skin, Br. J. Dermatol., 150, 563–567 (2004).
33. J. Ishikawa, Y. Shimotoyodome, S. Ito, Y. Miyauchi, T. Fujimura, T. Kitahara, and T. Hase, Variations in the ceramide profile in different seasons and regions of the body contribute to stratum corneum functions, Arch. Dermatol. Res., 305, 151–162 (2013).
34. K. Breiden and B. Sandhoff, The role of sphingolipid metabolism in cutaneous permeability barrier formation, Biochim. Biophys. Acta, 1841, 441–452 (2014).
35. K.J. Robson, M.E. Steward, S. Michelsen, N.D. Lazo, and D.T. Downing, 6-Hydroxy-4-sphingenine in human epidermal ceramides, J. Lipid Res., 35, 2060–2068 (1994).
36. J. van Smeden, M. Janssens, G.S. Gooris, and J.A. Bouwstra, The important role of stratum corneum lipids for the cutaneous barrier function, Biochim. Biophys. Acta, 1841, 295–313 (2014).
37. M.A. Lampe, A.L. Burlingame, J. Whitney, M.L. Williams, B.E. Brown, E. Roitman, and P. Elias, Human stratum corneum lipids: characterization and regional variations, J. Lipid Res., 24, 120–130 (1983).
38. J. van Smeden, M. Janssens, E.C. Kaye, P.J. Caspers, A.P. Lavrijsen, R.J. Vreeken, and J.A. Bouwstra, The importance of free fatty acid chain length for the skin barrier function in atopic eczema patients, Expl. Dermatol., 23, 45–52 (2014).
39. S. Ito, J. Ishikawa, A. Naoe, H. Yoshida, A. Hachiya, T. Fujimura, T. Kitahara, and Y. Takema, Ceramide synthase 4 is highly expressed in involved skin of patients with atopic dermatitis, J. Eur. Acad. Dermatol. Venereol., 31, 135–141 (2017).
40. E. Tamura, J. Ishikawa, A. Naoe, and T. Yamamoto, The roughness of lip skin is related to the ceramide profile in the stratum corneum, Int. J. Cosmet. Sci., 38, 615–621 (2016).
41. R. Hikima, S. Igarashi, N. Ikeda, M. Matsumoto, A. Hanyama, Y. Egawa, T. Horikoshi, and S. Hayashi, Development of lip treatment on the basis of desquamation mechanism, Int. J. Cosmet. Sci., 26, 165 (2004).
42. A. R. Shah and P. M. Kennedy, The aging face, Medical Clinics North America, 102, 1041–1054 (2018).
43. U. Wollina, R. Wetzker, M. B. Abdel-Naser, and I. L. Kruglikov, Role of adipose tissue in facial aging, Clinical Interventions in Aging, 12, 2069–2076 (2017).
44. N. A. Fenske and C. W. Lober, Structural and functional changes of normal aging skin, J. Am. Acad. Dermatol., 15, 571–585 (1986).
45. F. G. Fedok, The aging face, Facial Plast. Surg., 12, 107–115 (1996).
46. S. R. Coleman and R. Grover, The anatomy of the aging face: volume loss and changes in 3-dimensional topography, Aesthetic Surg. J., 26, S4-S9 (2006).
47. S. A. Goldstein and S. M. Goldstein, Anatomic and aesthetic considerations in midfacial rejuvenation, Facial Plast. Surg., 22, 105–111 (2006).
48. K. Sveikata, I. Balciuniene, and J. Tutkuviene, Factors influencing face aging. Literature review., Stomatologia, 13, 113–116 (2011).
49. T. Michaud, V. Gassia, and L. Belhaouari, Facial dynamics and emotional expressions in facial aging treatments, J. Cosmet. Dermatol., 14, 9–21 (2015).
50. B. Mendelson and C.H. Wong, Changes in the facial skeleton with aging: implications and clinical applications in facial rejuvenation, Aesthetic Plast. Surg., 36, 753–760 (2012).
51. L. Ramaut, P. Tonnard, A. Verpaele, K. Verstraete, and P. Blondeel, Aging of the upper lip: Part I: A retrospective analysis of metric changes in soft tissue on magnetic resonance imaging, Plast. Reconstr. Surg., 143, 440–446 (2019).
52. K. R. Beer, Rejuvenation of the lip with injectables, Skin Therapy Lett., 12 (3), 5–7 (2007).
53. U. Wollina, Perioral rejuvenation: restoration of attractiveness in aging females by minimally invasive procedures, Clinical Interventions in Aging, 8, 1149–1155 (2013).
54. H. S. Bui, M. Kanji, and L. Esposito, Shine-imparting hydrating and moisturizing emulsion lipstick composition, US Patent 8597621B2, assigned to L’Oreal SA (2013).
55. G. Kasparaviciene, A. Savickas, Z. Kalveniene, S. Velziene, L. Kubiliene, and J. Bernatoniene, Evaluation of beeswax influence on physical properties of lipstick using instrumental and sensory methods, Evidence-Based Complement. Altern. Med., 8, 1-8 (2016).
56. Standard test method for needle penetration of petroleum waxes, ATSM D1321 (2016).
57. Standard test method for cone penetration of petrolatum, ASTM D937 (2012).
58. C. Richard, B. Tillé-Salmon, and Y. Mofid, Contribution to interplay between a delamination test and a sensory analysis of mid-range lipsticks, Int. J. Cosmet. Sci., 38, 100-108 (2016).
59. B. S. Patel, P. J. Cooper, R. J. Kenny, and G. D. Cook, Method and apparatus for testing semisolid materials, US Patent 20050081607A1, assigned to Wyeth LLC (2004).
60. Beaulax, “What is BIOSKIN?,” 2017. [Online]. Available: http://www.beaulax.co.jp/en/about-bioskin/. [Accessed: 22-Apr-2019].
61. PerkinElmer Inc., “Thermal Analysis of Lipsticks Utilizing DSC,” 2012. [Online]. Available: https://www.perkinelmer.com/lab-solutions/resources/docs/APP_009913B_01_Thermal_Analysis_of_Lipsticks_Utilizing_DSC.pdf. [Accessed: 09-May-2019].
62. J. Latreille, E. Mauger, L. Ambroisine, M. Tenenhaus, M. Vincent, S. Navarro, and C. Guinot, Measurement of the reliability of sensory panel performances, Food Quality and Preference, 17, 369-375 (2005).
63. K. C. Yap and A. Aminah, Sensory analysis of lipstick, Int. J. Cosmet. Sci., 33, 245-250 (2011).
64. T. Jacks and B. Mattox, Solvent-based non-drying lipstick, US Patent 5690918A, assigned to Maybelline Inc. (1997).
65. D.W. Rafferty, L. Dupin, J. Zellia, and A. Giovannitti-Jensen, Predicting lipstick sensory properties with laboratory tests, Int. J. Cosmet. Sci., 40, 451–460 (2018).
66. N. M. P. Videos, “Man. Lip. Vertical section. 100X.” [Online]. Available: https://www.nature-microscope-photo-video.com/en/photos/animal-histology/comparative-histology-of-vertebrates/integumentary-system/mammals/lip/010505c01050505d-man-lip-vertical-section-100x.html.
*Corresponding author: ichien.Liao@rd.loreal.com