Читать книгу Surface Science and Adhesion in Cosmetics - Группа авторов - Страница 34

Momoko Suzumeji Shimizu1*, Yuta Nomura1 and Hy Si Bui2

1L’Oréal Research and Innovation, Kawasaki, Kanagawa, Japan

2L’Oréal Research and Innovation, Clark, NJ, USA

Abstract

This chapter will review the properties of some common natural waxes, their crystallization behaviors in oil-wax systems and their potential applications for long-lasting properties in cosmetics. Specifically, the impact of oil polarity and viscosity on the lipstick structure and the effect of the wax amount on the deposit will be discussed. Due to the complex and inhomogeneous chemical composition of natural waxes, for a systematic study polyethylene wax was used in an oil-wax system as a simple model to investigate the effect of oil viscosity and oil polarity on the lipstick structure. The results showed that the hardness of the lipstick was affected by both the oil polarity and oil viscosity at a fixed amount of wax. With increasing the oil polarity and viscosity, the oil-wax stick was harder with smaller or close-packed crystals as observed by SEM. These results were found to be very similar to the natural wax-oil gel systems reported in literature. In addition, with increasing oil viscosity, the sensorial perception changed from smooth to watery to sticky, and it did not depend on the oil polarity.

Keywords: Lipsticks, oil, wax, shine, deposit, texture, oil-wax gel, crystallization