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ОглавлениеChapter 3
Tools of the Trad
Mike Davis Collection
Traditional leading requires specific gear. Your previous climbing experience has most likely resulted in the acquisition of a harness, shoes, belay device, chalk bag, rope, and perhaps a modest rack for top-roping. If you’re coming into the trad realm by means of sport climbing, you may have a few more items. Although some crossover use is possible, climbing gear has become so highly specialized that you’re probably going to need an entirely new set of tools, specifically chosen with traditional lead climbing in mind.
GENERAL GEAR CONSIDERATIONS
The accumulation of trad lead climbing gear doesn’t usually happen in a day. This shopping spree is bound to last several years. Discovering exactly what to buy and why takes some effort. Cost is also a consideration. You may want to be absolutely sure you thoroughly dig trad climbing before you invest. If you’re gung ho, there’s really little you can do to ease the financial crunch unless you hook up with a friend who’s on a similar quest. Finally, once you get your gear, you need to do what you can to keep it by marking it in such a way that it is easily identified as yours.
Cost
Some relish the task of acquiring the necessary accoutrements for trad leading (especially self-styled gearheads or equipment nerds), but nearly everyone balks at the costly investment. If you gear-lead with a trustworthy friend, you can cut your initial costs in half. I’m not recommending sharing gear but rather each climber owning half of the gear to complete a rack. After the initial investment, you can both leisurely fill out your individual racks over time. This way you find out what products you prefer without emptying your pocketbook. But you both still need your own personal harness, shoes, chalk bag, rappel device, and nut tool.
Research
Thorough research prior to any large purchase is always a good idea. You may become overwhelmed and confused though by the abundance of gear on the market, the technicality of the products, and the massive amounts of information available, particularly on the Internet. You may or may not find valuable information by visiting climbing chat rooms, newsgroups, forums, and the like. It’s difficult to trust what you read in these online salons since it’s almost impossible to confirm the contributors’ experience level. Local rock guides are usually good sources, as are small, independent retail mountaineering shops where employees tend to be fairly knowledgeable. Product reviews in climbing magazines usually feature informed opinions, but of course you must remember that panning an item could potentially hurt the publication’s relationship with their valued advertisers. You should also be wary of online publications that rely on advertisers.
For detailed technical information on strength ratings and testing, refer to the manufacturers’ catalogs and Websites. Some companies provide more details than others. Unless you’re a mechanical engineer, metallurgist, or physicist, don’t expect to be able to understand typical research and development findings easily. Beware, also, of making choices based solely on strength comparisons or any other single quality. Strength ratings are relative and situational.
Before purchasing trad gear, consider the following criteria:
| 1. | Versatility. Can the item serve more than one purpose? (For example, some belay devices can double as rappel devices, and you can use some carabiners in applications from racking gear and leading to self-rescue). |
| 2. | Market longevity. How long has the item been around? When it comes to manufacturing climbing gear, wisdom comes with age. Purchase brands and products with longevity on the market. These items have spent a lot of time in research and development labs and in the hands of product testers. If a product has been around awhile, it has usually gone through several stages of refinement. |
| 3. | Home-Crag Friendliness. Ultimately, the gear you choose must suit the type of rock on which you’ll most frequently be leading. What works best in the narrow, nonuniform cracks in Eldorado Canyon is a disaster in Indian Creek’s splitter, parallel cracks. Talk to a trusted local. |
| 4. | Crossover Use. Will your partners recognize and feel comfortable using the gear you purchase for your rack? This factor is another good reason to consider market longevity—products that have been around longer are likely widely used and therefore generally familiar to many leaders. |
Before using your gear, read the directions carefully and thoroughly. Learn how to properly care for and store your items and when to recognize that retirement is in order. Sometimes gear may be damaged internally but have few external signs of wear and tear. World-class climber Todd Skinner might still be alive if his well-worn harness had been put out to pasture before it broke midrappel in a tragic accident in Yosemite Valley in 2006. The American Mountain Guides Association (AMGA) recommends replacing nylon items every five years and hardware every 10, regardless of use. When in doubt, retire it.
Identification
To identify your gear, mark hardware and runners with colored electrical tape. Some climbers prefer to etch their initials into hardware—this lasts forever but takes a significant time commitment. Sort gear after every climb to ensure it stays in your possession. I am now a fanatic about sorting, after years of slow but steady gear loss. No one intentionally “adopts” your gear, it just happens when so much is community property.
BASIC EQUIPMENT
Purchasing all this gear won’t be as traumatic if you approach it piecemeal. Begin by fulfilling the basic trad needs: You’ll want a comfortable, hearty harness; a good pair of all-around trad shoes that work well on slabs and in cracks; a lightweight belay device that doubles as a rappel device; and a big locking carabiner to attach the device to your harness. You’ll also need to purchase a rope. Finally, a nut tool, wide-mouthed chalkbag, and gear sling complete your basic trad ensemble.
Shoes
Find a knowledgeable salesperson with traditional climbing experience to help you choose a pair of shoes for trad routes. Most salespeople offering to help with climbing boots are unqualified to do so, especially in larger chain stores. When making such a pricey investment, you want to walk out with the right pair. If you can’t find an informed sales clerk, bring along someone with trad savvy, or at least first obtain a few style and brand recommendations from someone you trust. Another option might be to borrow or rent a pair of shoes to see how they feel on real rock. This is an optimal solution, though it limits size and brand options.
Since traditional cragging involves varied terrain, an all-round model is often a good starter shoe. Look for a moderately stiff pair you think you’ll be able to tolerate wearing all day. Most of these are going to have a substantial midsole to support the foot as your muscles develop. You’ll probably want to avoid choosing a pair that has an extremely cambered design (which resembles the arched spine of an angry cat), mainly because it lacks the support and comfort of good beginner trad climbing shoes. Modeled after a foot with down-curled toes, extremely cambered boots are used for high performance sport climbing.
A high-top boot that protects your ankles in cracks is a wise choice, especially if you’ll be climbing a lot of cracks that are hand-size and larger. Unfortunately, only a few manufacturers still make high tops. Slippers are ideal for bouldering and on short, thin crack routes, but I don’t recommend them as your primary trad-climbing shoe. They’re not as versatile, will really hurt your feet in wider cracks and on long routes, and will wear much faster since they are usually made with significantly less rubber than lace-ups.
Consider purchasing a second, more specialized pair for terrain on which you’ll be climbing most. Eventually, you’ll want to have at least two pairs of trad shoes on hand anyway—one to take the place of a pair that’s blown out and needs repair. Most veteran climbers own several pairs for a variety of venues. Your second pair for trad cragging may be a bit softer—perhaps a pair with a more flexible midsole for increased sensitivity and fancy footwork. Or, if you find yourself frequently on wide cracks and long routes, a more specialized, super stiff boot might serve you well.
Beware of salespeople convincing you to buy a size so tight that your feet scream out in pain. While climbing boots are not designed to be as comfortable as street shoes, the trad fit should be snug, not painful. If your toes curl in the toe box, try a larger shoe. Spend some time in the boots you’re considering; take a stroll around the shop a few times. Do some bouldering if the shop has an artificial wall for that purpose.
Although you’re looking for comfort, make sure the fit isn’t sloppy. If your feet slide around or rotate inside the boots when you lace them, they’re probably too big. Most climbing shoes stretch a little but not a lot. Stretch occurs mostly in width, and more with shoes sans lining. Socks are a personal choice. I don’t wear them but my boots collect perspiration odor, and I suffer when temperatures drop. If you prefer socks, try a thin, polyester-blend liner sock. The bulkier the sock, the more sensitivity is lost.
Harness
Choose a harness for trad climbing with five important features: a padded waist belt, a minimum of two gear loops, one rear haul loop, and easily released, padded leg loops. Leg loops that easily unhitch are essential for when nature calls and are an absolute must for women. They also allow their wearer to put on another layer of clothing without unbuckling his or her harness. Surprisingly, some available harnesses do not offer this feature. Many harnesses on the market also lack a haul loop. In terms of padding, you will definitely appreciate the comfort of wide, significantly padded waist belts and leg loops on long routes, at hanging belays, and on descents that require multiple rappels. While adjustable leg loops are not absolutely necessary, they do allow adjustment for the varied thickness of your clothing. And if you gain or lose a few pounds, you probably won’t have to purchase a new harness.
A properly fitting harness should be snug but not tight. If possible, try on the harness you’re thinking of purchasing and, literally, hang in it. If the waist belt rides high up on your ribs, or if the leg loops tend to dangle loosely below your crotch instead of becoming taut, try something smaller. The waist belt should have at least a 3-inch (7.5-millimeter) tail after doubling back.
Female climbers should closely examine what manufacturer’s market as “women’s harnesses” before purchasing one. Often the “special” features of these genderspecific items amount to nothing more than a harness shaved down to the bare minimum with very little padding. Such harnesses can prove to be extremely uncomfortable, particularly in the trad climbing environment.
Belay/Rappel Device
Tubes, plates, figure eights, mechanized auto-locking, and a few others make up the vast assortment of belay devices on the market today. When selecting one, first consider:
| 1. | Ease of use. Is the device known for easy rope feeding? Your partner counts on this. The leader needs rope fed out quickly and smoothly at all times, particularly when he or she is runout, teetering on a small stance, and trying to coax the rope into the safe cradle of a carabiner. |
| 2. | Design. You’re going to be carrying it around for hundreds of feet at a time. Is it light? Is it bulky? |
| 3. | Versatility. Can it double as a rappel device? It should, as rappelling is a common practice on the trad front. |
Various tube model belay devices
The ideal device is lightweight, lacks bulk, and can be used for rappelling. You must also be able to feed out rope smoothly and quickly without sacrificing too much braking quality.
The aforementioned criteria eliminate most mechanized camming devices (such as the GriGri). The average figure eight is bulky and tends to twist the rope. Now consider the diameter of your rope. What remains is still a considerable lot. I am partial to tube and plate models (see photo). While you want a device that has both excellent braking capability and allows for easy rope-feeding, you can’t have both. Unfortunately when you buy a device featuring one of these attributes, you sacrifice the other. If a device allows effortless rope feeding, a more alert, proactive belayer is required for optimal braking. There is certainly nothing wrong with this. In fact the majority of trad climbers I know, including guides, prefer such a device (like Black Diamond’s ATC), known by some as a “slick” device. Other devices (like Wild Country’s VC Pro) offer increased braking quality; if a belayer isn’t paying attention and does little to arrest a partner’s fall, the device cinches down significantly anyway. The tradeoff is that it’s trickier to feed rope through these devices, particularly after braking. These units are sometimes described as “grabbing” devices. Between the two are “intermediate” devices like HB’s Sprung Sticht Plate, lacking somewhat in easy feed-out, but a good piece of gear, nevertheless, in the hands of a skilled belayer.
With such a huge variety of specialized gear, when you gain a desirable feature, you often give up another. My favorites are “slick” tube devices (like the ATC-XP and XP Guide) featuring unilateral grooves that offer increased friction when you need it (on steep terrain with thinner ropes) and less when you don’t (low-angle terrain, yo-yo top-roping, and thicker ropes). If you decide on a tube device, choose one with thick walls for optimal heat dissipation. Narrow-walled devices heat up to flesh-searing temperatures and are subject to grooving that can create undetectable sharp edges that can harm your rope. The good thing about belay devices is that they are relatively inexpensive. If you’re unhappy with your choice, you won’t have to sell the farm to get a different one.
Locking Carabiners
You must use a locking carabiner (locker)—the bigger, the better—as your primary carabiner, linking you to your partner while belaying and to the rope while rappelling. Choose one with a large diameter opening to easily accommodate more knots and slings if needed. A variety of lock styles are available, the most common of which is the screw gate. These are fine, as long as you are diligent about locking them, and choose a “gate lock” instead of a “nose lock.” The latter can become stuck in the gate-locked position. Spring-loaded auto-locking ‘biners are also available. I like both styles. If you choose an auto-locker but also have screw gates on your rack, be sure you don’t get so used to the mindless auto-lock feature that you neglect to close the other gates manually.
Another locking carabiner is necessary for clipping yourself into anchors. Although it doesn’t need to be as big as your primary locker, the larger it is the more versatile it will be. Eventually, you’ll need a few more medium-sized lockers for self-rescue, as well as one small one for key lead pieces.
Assortment of large locking carabiners
Ropes
Lead-climbing ropes must be dynamic (rather than static)—they stretch to absorb shock and dissipate energy generated by a fall. Made from nylon, they have a kernmantle construction: a tough inner core (kern) that is the main load-bearing portion of the rope and an outer sheath (mantle) that protects it from abrasion.
Most trad leaders use either a single-rope or double-rope system for leading, with a twin-rope system being less common. Each system has its pros and cons. Throughout this book, I refer predominantly to the single-rope system, which requires ropes identified by a circled number “1” on a label located at one end of the rope.
The standard length of lead ropes for general rock climbing is gradually shifting from 165 feet (50 meters) to 200 feet (60 meters). Although most pitches (especially in the U.S.) are still 165 feet or less, I wouldn’t recommend a length less than 200 feet, especially if you plan on traveling, as newer routes (both sport and trad) in many other countries frequently surpass 50 meters.
In general, the larger the diameter of a rope, the stronger and more durable it is. Rarely seen anymore except in recreational settings are the 11-millimeter workhorses used frequently on big walls, where ropes suffer significant abuse from hauling and ascending. A 10-millimeter rope is a good choice for all-round trad purposes, although some climbers use smaller-diameter single ropes for backcountry ascents or for red-point attempts when weight might be a factor. By going light, you sacrifice durability and may have to retire your rope sooner than with a larger diameter cord.
Though a “dry” rope costs more, I prefer it over a “nondry” cord for trad climbing, particularly if you climb multipitch mountainous routes or in areas prone to thunderstorms. Dry ropes receive a treatment that helps prevent rainwater absorption. When a rope has absorbed a lot of water, it becomes heavier and less able to cushion a fall. And in very cold conditions, absorbed water can freeze, making the rope weaker and less manageable. While some treatments wear off with use, products can be purchased and applied to rejuvenate it.
Lead ropes are available in solid colors, bicolors, or bipatterns. The latter assist climbers in quickly locating the midpoint of their ropes. This excellent timesaving feature, which costs a bit more, may also increase safety. If you don’t have the extra cash, purchase Blue Water’s special rope pen (made without damaging chemicals), mark your rope’s center, and reapply as necessary.
Each type of lead rope is tested to failure (until it breaks) and assigned a strength rating based on the number of falls it tolerates. The average ranges from seven to nine and, as you might guess, larger diameter ropes tend to tolerate more falls. So, it is crucial for climbers to be diligent about recording each significant leader fall and retire lead ropes accordingly. (See Chapter 6 for more information on ropes and lead falls.)
Besides fall ratings, ropes are also rated for “maximum impact force” and “static elongation.” Static elongation refers to the amount a rope stretches during strength testing when weighted by a load of 176 pounds (80 kilograms). A low rating means the rope won’t stretch as much under load, a favorable characteristic for ropes used specifically for rappelling, hauling, and ascending. A higher elongation rating, which means the rope stretches more under load and is more comfortable for a climber, is desirable for leading.
Maximum-impact force is the force transmitted to a climber during a fall. The lower the impact force, the more the rope absorbs energy generated in a fall, transmitting less to the system and the climber. Since gear isn’t always optimal in the trad lead setting, a rope rated for lower maximum impact is preferable in some situations but not necessarily required. Because a lower maximum-impact force translates into more rope stretch, the downside may be a longer fall. (More information on rope strength and loads is discussed in Chapter 6.)
Many climbers who lead on a single rope own a second, smaller-diameter rope specifically for use as a trail line. This rope is used for descents requiring double-rope rappels, for hauling a pack, or simply as a backup for unplanned retreats. Your trail line can also be utilized as an emergency lead line should your primary rope become damaged. For this reason you’ll want a dynamic trail rope on which you’d feel fairly comfortable leading in an emergency. Personally, I’d lead on a single 9 millimeter in an emergency, but I cringe at the thought of taking the sharp end on anything smaller. Others feel differently based on the unlikelihood of such an occurrence and are willing to go lighter.
Handle all climbing ropes with care: avoid stepping on them, and keep them clean and out of the dirt. Rope bags are nice for casual cragging, but don’t fit easily into a pack. I carry a square yard of inexpensive nylon tarp material to keep my rope out of the dirt. Immediately retire ropes with damaged sheaths or exposed cores. Exposure to excessive heat (above 120˚F or 50˚C), sunlight (ultraviolet light), solvents, or chemicals including uric acid (found in urine) should also dictate retirement. Other signs of excessive wear that indicate the need for replacement include inconsistency in texture, unusual stiffness or softness, and glossy marks on the sheath. Wash your rope in a bathtub with warm water and no soap. Allow it to dry uncoiled in a warm, dry location out of the sun. Never put your rope in a dryer.
The Sterling Rope Company recommends these general guidelines for rope retirement based on use periods:
Three months to six months when used extensively or daily
About two to three years when used regularly on weekends
About three to five years when used occasionally
According to Sterling, the actual working life of a rope should never exceed five years.
Helmet
As Russ Walling of FISH Products says, “Helmets are cool.” “Brain buckets” have been available for years but the majority of climbers early on couldn’t be bothered—they were uncomfortable, heavy, claustrophobic, and hindered your sight. To top it off, they also looked geeky. Years ago a partner of mine demanded to know in frustration as her helmet slumped over her eyes, “When are the bike helmet people going to get together with the climbing helmet makers?”
Sometime in the mid-1990s climbers began to care more about their noggins than fashion and comfort, and helmets began to sell like gangbusters. In response, manufacturers began funneling more energy into helmet design, resulting in several lightweight fiberglass-blend models—which are honestly quite comfortable—featuring high-tech ventilation and adjustment systems. Since then, manufacturers have made helmets even lighter and more comfortable by developing options using molded polyurethane “foam” core similar to today’s bicycle helmets. It seems the jury’s still out on these items, but some critics report that while they offer better protection against side impacts (most likely the result of falling), they offer significantly less penetration resistance and impact protection (to protect you from falling rock or gear). A foam-core helmet is rated for one-time impact; after any such incident, it must be retired. More often than not the damage is visible. While their hard-shell cousins seem to be able to withstand more abuse, they too, should be retired after a single major impact, even though there may be no visible signs of demise. I still prefer fiberglass-blend models. When choosing a helmet, find an adjustable model that fits your head best and is approved by either the CEN or the UIAA or perhaps even both. Don’t order a helmet from a catalog unless you’ve tried it on and are certain you like the design. Don’t end up with a helmet you hate—it’s too easy to leave an unsatisfactory helmet at the base of a climb if you even bring it to the site.
Make sure your helmet adjusts properly for a snug fit. One gear supplier told me his company performed its own tests on helmets and discovered that some, although UIAA-approved, fit poorly after all the manufacturer’s directions were followed. If, after adjustments, your helmet shifts even slightly to the back or side of your head, it’s not going to provide the proper protection.
A helmet protects you from more than just rockfall. The most common climbing head injuries occur as the result of lead climbing falls. Perhaps the new lightweight helmets will gain favor in some settings in the future because of this fact. Still you must consider that a falling carabiner or a shard of ice rocketing down the face of a climb on a warm spring day can crack a skull as well. But, since a helmet cannot protect you from extreme impact forces, do what you can to stay out of harm’s way (see “Rockfall”).
Chalk Bag
Choose a chalk bag on the larger side. Smaller bags are usually designed with sport climbers in mind, who rarely need to chalk up more than their finger tips. Widemouthed bags are generally preferred by traditional lead climbers because the design allows climbers to coat their entire hands easily. Attach the bag to your waist with tubular nylon webbing instead of purchasing a belt with a plastic buckle. Thread it through both the bag and your belay/rappel loop and secure with a ring bend (see “Knots & Hitches”). Now it functions as a harness back-up and provides an extra sling if you run low on lead!
Nut Tool
Gear-leading requires that the follower carry a nut tool to extract snug nut placements (and sometimes cams) while cleaning each pitch. I always carry my own rather than sharing it with a partner. Many suitable designs are available. Buy one with a hooked tip for removing stuck cams and larger nuts with eyeholes (see Chapter 5). Keep your nut tool on its own carabiner and attached with about 1 foot (30 centimeters) of small-diameter accessory cord. The tool can then be clipped short for carrying or extended for use (see photos 1 and 2).
Nut tool clipped short (top) and extended (bottom)
Gear Sling
Your gear sling should be padded and adjustable. Some companies offer fleece-lined comfort while others make closed-cell-foam slings. Since trad parties need only one rack at a time, you frequently share your rack with a partner, who may not be your size. Before adjustable gear slings I schlepped my way up routes with gear dangling halfway to my knees, like a kid playing dress-up in adult clothes. I finished each climb with the blackest and bluest thighs seen outside of a shelter. Other women and smaller-framed men can attest to the misery they experienced prior to adjustable gear slings.
One particular type of gear sling on the market today features sectioned loops. Though I’ve never used a sectioned gear sling, many climbers like them. Still, a petite friend told me that this style didn’t work well on her small frame.
THE RACK
In climbing terms, the rack is not a torture device, a pair of antlers, nor a place to hang your fleece. The climber’s rack loosely refers to the collection of hardware you bring up on lead with you on your gear sling. Your rack is comprised of gear with which you’ll build anchors and pieces you’ll place intermittently on lead between belays. It also includes metal snap-links (specifically, carabiners) used to connect hardware to software like the rope, runners, and cords (described in the next section).
Spring-Loaded Camming Devices (SLCDs)
The invention of the SLCD in the mid-1970s revolutionized gear-leading like no other hardware breakthrough. Cams offer protection where nothing else fits, are easy and fast to place once you learn how, and, if placed correctly, are simple to remove.
With a plethora of SLCDs to choose from, most are versatile enough for general use while some excel for specific applications. Specialty offset devices work wonders in thin, corrugated cracks and flares but teeter helplessly in parallel-sided splitters. A fat, 4-cam device offering 35 percent more surface contact than like-sized cams perfectly addresses desert sandstone climbers’ needs, but try to get this piece to work in a granite pin scar.
With so many choices available, you may be tempted to own a few of each. For a starter rack, though, stick with just a few brands. Cam manufacturers, curiously, don’t share the same sizing scale; owning various brands, therefore, means constantly translating from one size range to another. A fairly uniform cam rack in the beginning of your trad career gets you comfortable with a few designs’ sizing ranges, color codes, and technical capabilities. Also, if you mix and match brands, your cams won’t hang uniformly, making it more difficult while leading to view the cams at a glance. You can find comprehensive comparison charts of SLCDs online.
Assorted SLCDs
Most SLCD manufacturers offer two stem designs: the U-stem and the central cable. Stem designs probably won’t mean much to you as a new trad leader. After some tinkering on lead, however, you may develop a preference. Some stems are more flexible, while others are longer. Triggers vary, too, a detail that is mostly a personal preference depending primarily on hand size. Since operating triggers on some SLCDs may be awkward if you have large hands, spend some time in stores pulling those of various brands before you buy. Or, better yet, borrow an assortment from friends and try them out at your local crags.
SLCDs are available with 2, 3, or 4 cams. Generally, the fewer the cams, the more narrow the head profile. Two-cam units fill a unique specialty need and are discussed at the end of this chapter. Three-cam units have narrow heads that fit well. They are ideal in rounded pin scars and shallow pods. Four-cam units are usually more stable (less likely to pivot), and some possess holding power superior to that of 3-cam units, but they are not as versatile. I prefer a combination because 3-cam SLCDs work wonders at most of the crags I frequent. Talk to local climbers to determine your need for 3-cam units. For larger sizes (1 inch and up), I recommend 4-cam units unless the features at your home crag dictate otherwise.
The dual-axle design, currently sold only by Black Diamond, offers the greatest expansion range of all SLCDs. The drawback of these beauties is that they are slightly heavier than similar-size cams, as well as more expensive. Yet the flexibility gained from having wider expansion is worth the extra weight and money for new leaders.
A standard SLCD rack adequate for most trad climbing areas has two cams of each size up to approximately 3 inches and one for sizes 3–4.5 inches. Because this optimal rack makes for an enormous initial investment, you might consider purchasing your 1.5- to 3-inch sizes first and filling in the remaining gaps with less expensive Stoppers (nuts), Hexes, and Tri-Cams.
A final word on cam purchase: SLCD manufacturers who have been making cams for a long time (like Wild Country, Black Diamond, Colorado Custom Hardware, and Metolius) have an edge over those newer to the game. While other brands can be as good, you have to carefully weigh these purchases when you’re hemorrhaging money for gear you hope will last a long time.
Stoppers
Stoppers (a.k.a. nuts, tapers, or chocks) are considered “passive” gear because they have no moving parts. For your trad rack, start with a combination of curved and straight Stoppers. Though curved nuts aren’t any stronger than straight ones are, they tend to set better, wrapping around tiny inconsistencies inside the crack. For general terrain, carry doubles of small and medium sizes (¼-¾ inch or 6–21 millimeters) and singles of micro and larger sizes.
Various Stoppers (nuts)
Before purchasing nuts under ¼ inch (6 millimeters), consider the type of rock on which you’ll most often be climbing. If you lead on granite, the superior metal choice for micro nuts is steel or a steel blend. Steel won’t deform under stress, while softer metals can shear out of a granite crack. If you’re leading on softer rock such as limestone, use brass, bronze, or copper-infused Stoppers because force generated onto a steel nut placement in soft rock can shatter the rock around it.
Offset nuts made by companies like DMM and Hugh Banner (HB) are great specialty pieces that you may choose to add to your standard wired selection eventually. These asymmetrical gems are designed to lock into the rock’s subtle irregularities, and work great if you’re dealing with sections of corrugated, bottlenecked cracks that aren’t parallel.
Hexcentrics & Tri-Cams
Tri-Cams (see photo 1) and Hexcentrics (Hexes) (see photo 2) are known as “passive” camming devices and are lighter and far less expensive than SLCDs. Smaller Tri-Cams work particularly well in shallow flares and pin scars. The latest Black Diamond Hex design fits into four different crack configurations and works best in tapered slots. Metolius makes a curved design. The drawbacks of these devices are that they are much less versatile than SLCDs and take time, patience, and thought to place correctly.
Lowe Tri-Cams
Hexcentrics
Carabiners
Consider strength and versatility when choosing carabiners for your trad rack. A combination of standard and asymetrically shaped Ds (see photo 3) is a good choice for most of your ‘biner collection. A few ovals(see photo 4) come in handy for racking Stoppers, performing carabiner brake rappels (see Chapter 9), and accommodating multiple knots or webbing. Yet ovals are not as strong as standard Ds. Asymmetrical Ds generally have larger gate openings than standard Ds so clipping is easier. Smaller at one end than the other, they also tend to be somewhat lighter. However, they aren’t as versatile as your standard D.
A carabiner is strongest along its vertical axis. A Dshaped ‘biner is stronger than an oval because its shape shifts the load close to the spine and away from its weakest point, the gate. Carabiners have closed- and opengate strength ratings because gates sometimes open unexpectedly (see Chapter 5). The average strength rating of a ‘biner with its gate closed is almost three times that of the same one open.
Standard (above) and asymetrical (below) D carabiners
Oval carabiners
Bent-gate and wire-gate carabiners (see photo 5) are not as versatile as others but frequently make their way onto trad climbers’ racks. The wire-gate ‘biner has a very high strength-to-weight ratio and boasts an unsurpassed gate opening for its size. Bent gates are easy to clip with one hand from a precarious position when leading, and unclip just as easily. They are used widely in sport climbing. Bent gates are designed specifically for clipping into the rope while climbing, so their use is limited to being the component of a quickdraw or an SLCD sling. Because they lack versatility, I don’t carry many on my trad rack. Also, the smaller diameter of some extremely light bent-gate models significantly reduces the strength of the rope: running the rope over a carabiner with a diameter of 10 millimeters or less will reduce its strength by 30 percent or greater.
Bent-gate (left) and wire-gate (right) carabiners
How many total carabiners will you need? Aside from a ‘biner for each SLCD and a couple on which to rack your Stoppers, consider purchasing 20–25 “single” (or free) carabiners for your starter rack. If the pitches are longer in your home cragging area, or if you’re going to pursue multipitch routes in which simultaneous belays eat up more of your single carabiners, purchase a few more.
RUNNERS & CORDAGE
Runners (slings) are used with carabiners to create links between your rope and your anchors and between your rope and lead protection. A section of tubular webbing is either sewn or tied into a loop to create a typical runner. A cordelette is typically an 18- to 25-foot (6- to 8-meter) loop of cord used to create a SERENE anchor. (SERENE stands for Safe/Secure, Equalized, Redundant, Easy, and No Extension.) The Web-o-lette is a 10-foot (250-centimeter) length of Spectra webbing with loops sewn at either end that is also used in building such anchors. Chapter 6 explains how to use both the Web-o-lette and the cordelette to build SERENE anchors.
Modern Materials
For years, climbers relied on runners made from nylon webbing to link ropes to hardware. Enter the tough-as-steel Spectra, one of the strongest materials in the world (bulletproof vests are made from Spectra). Developed in the 1980s, this fiber is a more durable and less bulky runner option with low water-absorption and significant abrasion resistance. Because of its low melting point and vulnerability to ultraviolet (UV) light, climbing gear manufacturers began using Spectranylon blends. (Nylon is more resistant to UV light.) These eventually came to include trademarked brands such as Vectran, Titan, Dyneema, Ultratape, and Supertape. Today, manufacturers are working with additional specialty fibers with many of the same qualities as Spectra, plus a higher resistance to UV light and increased tensile strength. These materials like Kevlar, Vectran, and Technora are typically combined with other more supple materials like nylon and sold under brand names such as Dynex, Tech Cord, and Gemini2. One downfall of these materials is that tests have shown they experience a significant decrease in strength with use, meaning you must monitor, retire, and replace them frequently. Some tend to be quite stiff, too, making for difficult handling.
Quickdraws (left) and tied and sewn runners (right)
Recommended Runner Specs
In most cases, trad leaders will benefit from carrying three different lengths of runners on their racks. I refer to these as 4-inch (10-centimeter) quickdraws, 24-inch (60-centimeter) full- or shoulder-length runners, and 48-inch (120-centimeter) double runners. (Sewn lengths may vary slightly depending on the manufacturer). Typical runner material widths range from 11⁄16 to 1 inch. All things considered, I recommend a combination of tied 1-inch tubular nylon runners, some sewn 9⁄16-inch nylon runners, and a few sewn 9⁄16-inch Spectra runners and quickdraws.
