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CONTENTS

Acknowledgments

Foreword

Introduction

How to Use this Book

1—Rock Climbing 101

Roles & Systems

• Top-Roping

• Leading

Basic Ascent Methods

• Free Climbing

• Direct-Aid Climbing

Alpine Climbing

Free Climbing Styles

• Traditional Free Climbing

• Sport Climbing

Growing Pains

• Recent Changes

• Resistance & Ethical Debates

• Rock Climbing Today

2—Exploring the Traditional Lead Experience

A Closer Look

• Adventure

• Commitment

• Creativity

• Simplicity

• Multidimensionality

• Camaraderie

• Access

Psychological Factors

• Concentration

• Decision-Making & Multitasking

• Coping with Fear & Danger

Ambition

• Honoring Personal Limitations

• Questioning Motives

3—Tools of the Trad

General Gear Considerations

• Cost

• Research

• Identification

Basic Equipment

• Shoes

• Harness

• Belay/Rappel Device

• Locking Carabiners

• Ropes

• Helmet

• Chalk Bag

• Nut Tool

• Gear Sling

The Rack

• Spring-Loaded Camming Devices (SLCDs)

• Stoppers

• Hexcentrics & Tri-Cams

• Carabiners

Runners & Cordage

• Modern Materials

• Recommended Runner Specs

• Cordelette & Web-o-lette

Specialty Items

4—Into the Wild: From the Gym to the Great Outdoors

Risk & Responsibility

Movement

• Slab Climbing

Basic Crack Climbing

• Developing Crack Technique

• Shuffling & Crossing Over

• Chimneys

• Expert Techniques for Advanced Cracks

Belaying

• Preparedness

• Positioning

• Rope Management

Communicating Outdoors

Rope Handling

• Coiling

• Flaking

Top-Roping

• Route Choice

• Gear

• Preparation

• The Anchor

• The Rope

• Directionals

• At the Base

Mountain Sensibility

5—Building a Solid Foundation

Climbing Partnerships

• Trust & Mutual Respect

• Couple Partnerships

• Climbing with Strangers

• Mentors

Protection Placement

• Ground Work

• Rock Integrity

• Stoppers & Nuts

• Spring-Loaded Camming Devices (SLCDs)

• Hexcentrics & Tri-Cams

• Bolts

• Natural Protection

• Carabiner Use

• Multidirectional Placements

Anchors

• The Pre-Equalized Anchor System

• Anchors & Load Direction

• Fixed Anchors

• Other Anchoring Methods

Navigation Aids

• Guidebooks

• Topos

• Gathering Beta

Following & Cleaning

• At the Base

• Climbing

• At the Belay Anchor

• Cleaning

Rappel Overview

• Gear Dependence

• The Rope(s)

• Avoiding Fatal Mistakes

• Brake-Line Backup

• Safety Check

6—The Single-Pitch Trad Lead

Leading on Top-Rope

• Expert Feedback

• The Setup

At the Base

• Racking Up

• The Base Belay

• Safety Check

Communication

• Verbal Commands

• Backup Tactile Commands

• Two-Way Radios

Lead Protection & Rope Management

• Runner Usage

• Multidirectional Protection

• Piece Selection

• Placement Frequency

• Stances

• Double Placements

• Blind Placements

• Fixed Gear

• Protecting Traverses

• Rope Positioning & Clipping

• Directionals

Movement

• Testing Holds

• Rhythm & Flow

• Energy Conservation

• Down-Climbing

• Hanging

• Backing Off

Falling

• Hazards

• The Physics of Falling

• Fall Factor

• Impact Force

• Impact Impulse

Establishing a Belay Anchor

• Location

• Fixed Belay Anchors

7—The Multipitch Adventure

Preparation

• Route Choice

• Partner Choice

• Weather

• The Pack

• Food & Water

• Gear

• Cooperative Racking System

• The Approach

Moving Up

• Route Finding

• Trail Line Management

The Belay

• Anchors

• Organization

• Belaying the Second

• The Changeover

• Leading in Blocks

Objective Hazards

• Poor Weather

• Lightning

• Rockfall

• High-Altitude Illnesses

The Descent

• Multipitch Rappelling

• Class 3 & 4 Terrain

• Scree & Talus

• Snow & Ice

• Epics

• Retreat

The Unplanned Bivouac

8—Introduction to Self-Rescue

Prevention & Responsibility

First Aid

Equipment

Knots & Hitches

• Friction Hitches

• Basic Mule Knot

• Munter Mule

Fundamental Techniques

• Rope Ascent

• Belay Escape

• Assisted Raise

• Assisted Descent

Leader Rescue Overview

9—Knot Craft & Gear Tricks

Knots & Hitches

• Figure-Eight Follow-Through (a.k.a. Rewoven Figure-Eight)

• Figure-Eight on a Bight

• Clove Hitch

• Overhand on a Bight

• Girth Hitch

• Double Fisherman’s (a.k.a. Grapevine)

• Ring Bend (a.k.a. Water or Tape Knot)

• Double Bowline

• Flat Overhand

Improvisation Techniques

• Carabiner Brake Rappel

• Munter Belay

• Hip Belay

• Bowline on a Coil

• Rope-Equalized Anchoring

• Double-Rope Lead Technique

10—Common Know-How

Ratings

• Class Ratings

• Yosemite Decimal System

• Protection Severity Ratings

• Grades

• Rating Translation & Style

Climbing Etiquette

• Common Cragging Courtesy

• Leave No Trace

• Access

Afterword

Appendix 1: The Clean Climbing Revolution

Appendix 2: Lead Ascent Styles

Appendix 3: Developments Before Sport Climbing

Appendix 4: The Fixed-Line & Drilled-Bolt Controversy

Glossary

Endnotes

Resources

About the Author