Читать книгу The Taste of Britain - Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall - Страница 285

The British apple market is distinctive in having several varieties that are grown specifically for cooking. These disintegrate into a purée more readily than eating apples (having more malic acid). Other countries tend to grow varieties (and develop sympathetic recipes) that are used for both cooking and eating.

The Grenadier is the first cooking apple to reach the market at the start of the English apple season in late summer. Its origin is unknown; it was exhibited in the 1860s by one Charles Turner, a nurseryman in Slough (Buckinghamshire), and was commercialized in the 1880s. It cooks to a purée. Another early-season cooking apple, of the type known as codlin (a sour apple which cooks to a froth), which came to prominence just before the First World War was the Emneth Early, raised at Emneth in Cambridgeshire. It was important for many years, but is now rarely seen for sale.

Grenadier is good for dishes in which a frothy purée is needed. A drink made with codlin apples is ‘lambswool’, in which the cooked pulp is floated on top of hot spiced ale.