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As woodworkers well know, wood has an annoying habit of shrinking and swelling across the grain. To cope with this tendency in a large assembly such as the worktop, the endcaps (pieces 8) are splined and attached with lag screws driven through oversize, slotted holes (see the elevations on page 10 for marking the slotted hole locations).

Chuck the rabbeting bit (the one you used earlier to create grooves in the worktop ends) in your portable router, and with the workpieces held securely, create a stopped groove in each endcap. Then, mark the locations of the lag screw holes in each groove.

Trim splines (pieces 9) to fit around the lag screws, and then move to the drill press to bore the two-step elongated and round lag screw holes, as shown in Figure 3. Note that the endcaps are not identical but are mirror images of one another. Use the drilled endcaps to locate pilot holes in the worktop, drill these holes, insert the splines, and attach the endcaps with lag screws and washers (pieces 10 and 11). Don’t glue the splines in; otherwise, the worktop will buckle or crack if it’s not allowed to move.

Material List

		T x W x L
31	Feet (4)	¾" x 3½" x 3½"
32	Stile Center Laminations (4)	1" x 3¾" x 33¼"
33	Stile Outer Laminations (8)	1" x 3¾" x 24½"
34	Top Rail Outer Laminations (4)	1" x 4⅝" x 20"
35	Bottom Rail Outer Laminations (4)	1" x 4⅝" x 23¼"
36	Rail Center Laminations (4)	1" x 4⅝" x 10"
37	Foot Inserts (4)	1" x 4⅝" x 2⅞"
38	Top Inserts (4)	1" x 4⅝" x 2⅞"