| Chapter I.—Gairloch of the Present Day. |
| No town in Gairloch—List of townships or hamlets—Ministers and services—Free churches and ministers—Schools—School Board—Table of Schools, with average attendance—List of school teachers—Side schools—School rate—Obstacles to regular attendance—Annual inspections—Registrar of Births, Deaths, and Marriages—Pauperism—Poor-rates—Pauper lunatics—Medical officer—The county road—Private roads—Policemen—Justices of the Peace—Licensed houses—Postal arrangements—Telegraph—Carrier—Bank—Markets—Preventive service—Steamers—Rifle corps—Its three sections—Principal houses in Gairloch—Poolewe Public Hall | 293 |
| |
| Chapter II.—Approaches and Roads. |
| Approach from Achnasheen—From Loch Carron—From Loch Torridon—From Gruinard—By steamer—By boat from Ullapool—On foot—Main road maintained by the county—Private roads—Loch Maree a highway | 299 |
| |
| Chapter III.—Achnasheen to Kenlochewe. |
| Dingwall and Skye railway—The Gairloch mail-car—Natural terraces like railway embankments—Loch Rosque—Remains of ancient ironworks—The Clach an t' Shagart at Bad a Mhanaich—Luibmhor in Gairloch—View of Scuir Mhullin—Persistent inquirer—Hill resembling a profile—Glen Dochartie—View of Loch Maree—Trysting-place—More old ironworks—View of Beinn Eay—Kenlochewe—Hugh Miller on this name—Kenlochewe village and hotel—Culinellan churchyard—The Cnoc a Chrochadair—Ath nan ceann—Two routes to Gairloch | 301 |
| |
| Chapter IV.—Kenlochewe to Talladale. |
| Tagan farm—Glas Leitire woods—Ru Nohar—Umbrella-like firs—Her Majesty's description of the road—Glen Grudidh—Old fir trees—Eilean Grudidh—Wild stretch of road described by Her Majesty—Hamlet of Talladale—The Loch Maree Hotel—Accommodation—Angling—Visit of Her Majesty—Commemorative Gaelic inscription on a boulder—English translation | 305 |
| |
| Chapter V.—Talladale to the Gairloch Hotel. |
| Road through woods—The Victoria Falls—Garavaig ironworks—Slatadale farm—Old road to west of Craig Tollie—View of the islands of Loch Maree—Feur loch—Loch Bad na Sgalaig—Kerry falls—Kerry bridge—Her Majesty's interview with Lews' people here—Kerrysdale House—Resort of fairies—Charleston—Flowerdale House—Port na heile—The Gairloch—Established church—The Leabaidh na Ba Bàine—Gairloch churchyard—Old ironworks—Monument to John Mackenzie of the "Beauties"—The Crasg—The Cnoc a Croiche—The Gairloch Hotel—Accommodation and arrangement—Sea-bathing—Boating—Angling—Fine view | 308 |
| |
| Chapter VI.—The Gairloch Hotel to Poolewe. |
| Achtercairn—Views of Strath and the hills of Skye—Deep gorge—Geikie on geology of a curious hill—The Shoe-stone—Funeral heaps—Lochan nan Airm—The Glen—Craig Bhadain an Aisc—Blar na Fala—Loch Tollie—Its crannog—Surrounding hills—Distant views—Old road—View of Loch Maree—Beinn Aridh Charr—Spidean Moirich—Croft Brae—Hamlet of Croft—Ceann a Chro, or Cruive End—The Still—The Hill of evil counsel—The Trossachs of Loch Maree—Poolewe village—The church—The inn—Pool House—Other houses—Londubh—The Inverewe burial-ground | 312 |
| |
| Chapter VII.—Poolewe to Aultbea. |
| The pool—Srondubh—Inverewe House and gardens—Description from the Times—Loch nan Dailthean—Tournaig—The Dowager Lady Mackenzie's residence—Description of the garden from the Times—Coile Aigeascaig—Mac Gille Riabhaich's cave—Bleeding living cattle—Tournaig farm—Loch Tournaig—Dunan—The road ascends—Views—Drumchork—Aultbea—Townships—Houses—Anchorage—Aultbea inn | 318 |
| |
| Chapter VIII.—Excursions from Kenlochewe. |
| Drives—Expedition to Loch Torridon—Cromasaig—Fe Leoid—Loch Clair—Maelrubha's seat—Carn Anthony—Coire Cheud Cnoc—Precipices of Liathgach—Her Majesty's remarks—Sguir Dubh—Lochan an Fheidh—Loch Torridon—Village—Mr Darroch and Torridon House—Ploc of Torridon—The heights of Kenlochewe—Glen Cruaidh Choillie—Glen na Muic—Excursions on foot by the path on the east side of Loch Maree—Excursions on Loch Maree | 321 |
| |
| Chapter IX.—Excursions from Talladale. |
| Drives and walks—Expeditions on Loch Maree—The steamer—Boats | 326 |
| |
| Chapter X.—Excursions from Gairloch. |
| The south side of Gairloch—Shieldaig—Leac nan Saighead—Badachro—Loch Bad na h' Achlais—Port Henderson—Opinan—Cave—South Erradale—Ancient ironworks—Point—Views—North side of Gairloch—Achtercairn—Strath—Carn Dearg—Little Sand farm—Big Sand—Iron furnace—North Erradale—Wonderful cave—Peterburn—Altgreshan—Melvaig—The Leac—Rudha Reidh—Stac Buidhe—Other drives—Tour of Loch Maree—Boating expeditions—Walks—Geikie on geological features | 327 |
| |
| Chapter XI.—Excursions from Poolewe. |
| West side of Loch Ewe—Cliff House—Cuil an Scardain—Boor—Views—Naast—Inverasdale—Brae—Midtown—Coast—Board school—Firemore—Telegraph to Stornoway—Meallan na Ghamhna—Caves—Loch a Druing woods—Cove—The village—The cave—Natural arch—Fionn Loch excursion—Craig an Fhithich—Inveran wood and farm—Inveran river—Loch Kernsary—Innis a Bhaird—Kernsary farm—Fionn Loch—Fine view—Other excursions by road—Walks—Craig Bhan | 332 |
| |
| Chapter XII.—Excursions from Aultbea. |
| To Mellon Charles—Cuilchonich—Bual na luib—Mellon Charles—Mellon Udrigil—Laide—The Loch of the Beast—Second Coast—Old church of Sand—Sandy beach—Curious rocks—First Coast and Second Coast—Mill Bay—Cadha Beag—Little Gruinard—Fisherfield—Meikle Gruinard river—Excursions by water | 337 |
| |
| Chapter XIII.—Excursion by Steamer on Loch Maree. |
| Road to north end of Loch Maree—Opinions of the scenery—Leading characteristics—Tollie pier—Fox Point—Clearness of water—Sweetheart's stepping-stones—Fhridh Dhorch—Ardlair—Cave of the king's son—The minister's stone—Clach a Mhail—Uamh a Mhail—Rudha Chailleach—The white horse—The Bull rock—The cave of gold—Gold mining in Scotland—Mountains—Letterewe—Limestone quarry—Waterfall—Furnace—Innis Ghlas—Coppachy—Regoilachy—Slioch—Cladh nan Sasunnach—Fasagh—Tagan—Ru Nohar—Undercliffs of Meall a Ghiubhais—Woods of Glas Leitire—View of Glen Grudidh—Aid na h' Eigheamh—Isle Maree—Whittier's verses—Eilean Suainne—Eilean Dubh na Sroine—Garbh Eilean—Eilean Ruaridh—The planted island—Wild fowl—Talladale—Slatadale—Doire—Craig Tollie—Bay of Corree—Rudha Aird an Anail—Cave—Heather burning | 340 |
| |
| Chapter XIV.—The Fionn Loch and its Dubh Loch, by William Jolly. |
| Name—Approaches—Loch Kernsary—View of Fionn Loch—Mountains described—Visits to the loch—Lochanan Beannoch—Beinn Aridh Charr—Black-throated divers—Beinn Lair—Narrow glen—Old hill fort—Craig an Dubh Loch—Pegmatite—Dubh Loch—Thunder shower—Islands—Birds—Marten cats | 349 |
| |
| Chapter XV.—Loch Gruinard, by William Jolly. |
| Loch Ewe—Mountain view—Aultbea—Moraines—Summer Isles—Distant views—Old Chapel—Caves—Modern Cave-dweller—Gruinard House—Gruinard river—Mountains of Loch na Sheallag | 355 |
| |
| Chapter XVI.—Angling in Sea Lochs. |
| Several classes of anglers—Outfit recommended—Two usual modes of sea fishing—Trolling for lythe—Artificial sand-eels—Handline fishing—Scalps—Fishes captured—Conger eels—Large halibut—Large skate | 359 |
| |
| Chapter XVII.—Angling in Loch Maree. |
| Excessive fishing—Reserved water—Species of fish—Char—Salmon—Sea-trout—Bull-trout—Finnocks—Property in salmon and sea-trout—Large brown trout—Ferox not a separate species—Variations in trout—So-called ferox not worth eating—Gizzard trout | 361 |
| |
| Chapter XVIII.—Angling in Fresh-water Lochs. |
| Permission required—Trout scarcer than formerly—Dr Mackenzie accounts for this—The tarry sheep—Fionn Loch—Angling deteriorated—Good day's angling—The Dubh loch—Three trout at a cast—Bait fishing for trout—Loch Kernsary—Char—Char and trout, and pink and white-fleshed trout, indistinguishable to the taste—Burn fishing—Best time for trout fishing—Eels—Pike—Their introduction described by Dr Mackenzie—Re-introduced in Sir Kenneth's time | 363 |
| |
| Chapter XIX.—Salmon Angling. |
| Salmon rivers—The Ewe—Cruives—The old cruive used for crossing the river—Roderick Campbell and an American merchant drowned—The new cruive—Gradual diminution of stock of salmon—Length of the Ewe—Pools on the east side—Pools on the other side—Runs of salmon and grilse—Kelts—Bull-trout—Sea-trout—Large salmon—Best flies—Dr Mackenzie's anecdote of Sir Humphrey Davy—John Bright—Odd incidents—Damaged fly—Successful fishing after a friend—Hooking a fish after losing another—Was it a rise?—Fish taking when line slack—Kelt caught twice—Holding on for five hours—Angler compared to the evil one—Water-bailiffs—John Glas—Sandy Urquhart—His loquacity—Fishing on the Ewe—Tailing salmon—Spiked gloves—Bags of salmon now and formerly—Singular mode of fishing by Sir Hector—Charms of the Ewe—Other salmon rivers in Gairloch | 366 |
| |
| Chapter XX.—Deer Forests and Grouse Shooting. |
| The red deer—Free to roam—Antiquity of—Formerly scarce—Meaning of "forested"—List of deer forests—Estimated yield and stock—Stag season—A "royal"—Best heads—Hinds—Deer-stalking—Great caution required—Staghounds not much used now—Quotation from John Taylor, the "Water-Poet"—Present system of letting deer forests—Colonel Inge in Gairloch—Misconceptions with regard to deer forests—Opinions of the Crofters Commission—Depopulation not due to deer forests—Deer forests not suitable for occupation by crofters—Loss of mutton and wool insignificant—Depredations by deer on crofters' crops easily remedied—Deterioration of pasture by deer not proved—Demoralization of gillies not due to forests—Summary of opinions—Substantial benefits conferred by deer forests—Afford employment to a greater extent than sheep farms—Recommendation by Commissioners—Grouse shooting—Grouse not abundant—Disease infrequent—Late birds—Mixed bags—Separate grouse shootings | 372 |
| |
