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1 1 Somewhat different dates for the production and presentation of the perfume (1925/1927) are found in Schlögel, Das sowjetische Jahrhundert, pp. 250–63.

2 2 Regarding the Chanel No 5. exhibit at the Museum of Modern Art, see The Package, Museum of Modern Art Bulletin, vol. 27, no. 1, Fall 1959, available online at https://assets.moma.org/documents/moma_catalogue_1953_300190180.pdf.

3 3 Arthur Gold and Robert Fizdale, Misia, p. 215.

4 4 Some attribute the phrase to the Finns, who used it to refer to their weapons in the Soviet–Finnish Winter War; others trace it back to a decree issued by Molotov.

5 5 Even the exhibition in the Palais de Tokyo takes a Western-centric view of the history of Chanel’s perfume, aside from references to Diaghilev and Stravinski, etc.

6 6 Constance Classen et al., Aroma; regarding the sociology of smell, see Jürgen Raab, Soziologie des Geruchs.

7 7 Quoted in Alain Corbin, The Foul and the Fragrant, p. v.

8 8 Jonathan Reinarz, Past Scents, pp. 209, 216, 217, 218. Russian research has been collected in volumes edited by Olga Vainshtein, Aromaty i zapakhi v kul’ture; Olga Vainshtein, Dendi; Irina A. Mankevich, Povsednevnyy Pushkin; Olga Kushlina, ‘Ot slova k zapakhu’, pp. 102–10; Maria Pirogovskaya, Miazmy, simptomy, uliki.

9 9 Georg Friedrich Wilhelm Hegel, Phenomenology of Spirit, p. 331.

10 10 Immanuel Kant, Anthropology from a Pragmatic Point of View, pp. 50f.

11 11 Friedrich Nietzsche, Ecce homo, p. 88.

12 12 Friedrich Nietzsche, Thus Spoke Zarathustra, p. 408.

13 13 Konstantin M. Verigin, Blagoukhannost’, and Arthur Schopenhauer, The World as Will and Representation, p. 31.

14 14 George Orwell, The Road to Wigan Pier, quoted in Classen et al., Aroma, p. 166.

15 15 Somerset Maugham, quoted in Classen et al., Aroma, p. 166.

16 16 Marcel Proust, In Search of Lost Time, vol. I: Swann’s Way, pp. 60–5.