Читать книгу The Scent of Empires - Karl Schlögel - Страница 8

1 1 Here and throughout the book, I am following the biography of Gabrielle Chanel written by Edmonde Charles-Roux, Chanel and Her World, first published in French in 1979. There are many other accounts of her life; see, e.g., Axel Madsen, Coco Chanel; Paul Morand, The Allure of Chanel. Regarding Grasse as the ‘Rome of fragrances’, see Grasse.

2 2 Tilar J. Mazzeo, The Secret of Chanel No. 5, pp. 60ff.

3 3 Ibid., p. 61; Marie-Dominique Lelièvre (Le No 5 de Chanel, p. 43) speaks of a ‘grey zone’ regarding the date and location of the meeting.

4 4 Quoted in Konstantin M. Verigin, Blagoukhannost’, p. 50 (in the online edition at www.e-reading.club/book.php? book=1016413). French edition: Constantin Weriguine, Souvenirs et parfums.

5 5 Mazzeo, The Secret of Chanel No. 5, pp. 62, 67; regarding the formula for Chanel No. 5, see https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chanel_No._5.

6 6 Mazzeo, The Secret of Chanel No. 5, p. 65.

7 7 Ibid., pp. 65f.

8 8 For various accounts of the perfume’s creation, see Michael Edwards, Perfume Legends, p. 43, and Joachim Laukenmann, ‘Es riecht nach Remake’. Regarding the different versions of the story, see, e.g., https://de.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chanel_No_5.The most important analysis of the genealogy of Chanel No. 5 can be found in Philip Kraft et al., From Rallet No 1 to Chanel No 5 versus Mademoiselle Chanel No 1. However, like most accounts, this article disregards the line leading from Brocard’s Bouquet de Catherine to Krasnaya Moskva.

9 9 This formula can be found at https://de.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chanel_ No_5.

10 10 Mazzeo, The Secret of Chanel No. 5, p. 71.

11 11 Karl Lagerfeld, Chanel’s Russian Connection.

12 12 Mazzeo, The Secret of Chanel No. 5, p. 72.

13 13 Ibid., pp. 72, 67f.

14 14 Jean-Louis Froment, No. 5 Culture Chanel, introduction.

15 15 Zolotoy yubiley parfyumernogo proizvodstva Tovarishchestva Brokar i Ko v Moskve.

16 16 Regarding the nationalization of factories after 1917, see Manfred Hildermeier, Geschichte der Sowjetunion, pp. 105–56.

17 17 Regarding food procurement, foraging trips and the black market, see Aleksandr Y. Davydov, Meshochniki i diktatura v Rossii 1917–1921.

18 18 Natalya Dolgopolova, Parfyumeriya v SSSR, I, pp. 57ff.

19 19 Ibid., p. 124. The perfume is said to recall the scent of a bouquet, with notes that gradually emerge on the skin; see https://fanfact.ru/duhi-krasnaja-moskva-pridumal-francuzskij-parfjumer.

20 20 This is according to Marina Koleva, ‘Sovetskaya parfyumeriya’, pp. 74–85 (here p. 80); Viktoriya Wlasowa, ‘Krasnaya Moskva’; Nina Nazarova, ‘“Krasnaya Moskva”’.

21 21 Dolgopolova, Parfyumeriya v SSSR, I, p. 125; ‘Medvedevu podarili dukhi pochti stoletney vyderzhki’, RIA Novosti, 10 October 2011, https://ria.ru/20111010/454649754.html.

22 22 An article by an R. Kronhaus in the magazine Technika Molodezhi (p. 27) says that he first arrived in 1908; Koleva, ‘Sovetskaya parfyumeriya’, p. 80; Dolgopolova, Parfyumeriya v SSSR, I, p. 125.

23 23 Hopefully the documents in the Novaya Zarya company archives will clarify the identity of the two perfumes once and for all.

24 24 Other authors seem to have no doubt that Krasnaya Moskva was derived directly from The Empress’s Favourite Bouquet; see Dolgopolova, Parfyumeriya v SSSR, I, p. 126. The continuity between the two perfumes has been confirmed by Isabelle Chazot of the Osmothèque in Versailles (10 July 2020). Despite being in competition, the relationship between Rallet and Brocard was extremely close. For example, Rallet produced perfume bottles for Brocard (according to Nicolas Maunoury of La Glass Vallée, Pôle Mondial du flaconnage de luxe de la Vallée de La Bresle, 28 September 2020).

25 25 Dolgopolova, Parfyumeriya v SSSR, I, p. 130.

26 26 Dolgopolova, Parfyumeriya v SSSR, I, pp. 66, 67ff.

27 27 Regarding TeZhe, see Veniamin Kozharinov, Russian Perfumery, pp. 122, 123; also see Jukka Gronow, Caviar with Champagne.