Читать книгу The Scent of Empires - Karl Schlögel - Страница 2

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CONTENTS

Cover

Title Page

Copyright

Dedication

Extracurricular activity Notes

The scent of the empire, or how Le Bouquet de Catherine from 1913 led to Chanel No. 5 and the Soviet perfume Red Moscow after the Russian Revolution Notes

Scentscapes: Proust’s madeleine and historiography Notes

When ‘the weakest link breaks in the imperialist chain’ (Lenin): the world of scents and the olfactory revolution Notes

Departure from the belle époque and clothes for the New Woman: Chanel’s and Lamanova’s double revolution Notes

10  Chanel’s Russian connection Notes

11  French connection in Moscow? The ‘fatherland of workers’ and traces of Mikhail Bulgakov Notes

12  Auguste Michel’s incomplete project: a Palace of Soviets perfume Notes

13  The seductive scent of power: Coco Chanel and Polina Zhemchuzhina Molotova – two careers in the twentieth century Notes

14  From another world: the smoke of the crematoria and the smell of Kolyma Notes

15  After the war: man cannot live on bread alone – the New Look and Stilyagi Notes

16  Excursus: the grande dame of German film Olga Chekhova, cosmetics and the dream of eternal youth Notes

17  How One World smells Notes

18  Not only the Black Square: Malevich’s perfume bottle Notes

19  Bibliography

20  Index

21  End User License Agreement

Guide

Cover

Table of Contents

Title Page

Copyright

Dedication

Begin Reading

Bibliography

Index

End User License Agreement

List of Illustrations

1 Chapter 2Figure 1 Le Bouquet Favori de l’Impératrice (1913)Figure 2 Chanel No. 5 by Ernest Beaux, 1926 © akg-images / François GuénetFigure 3 Brocard bottle © Philip Goutell, ‘Perfume Projects’, www.perfumeprojects.com

2 Chapter 4Figure 4 Konstantin Verigin, 1940. Irène Bizet Archive (France), from L’Émigration russe …

3 Chapter 5Figure 5 Nadezhda Lamanova, 1880s © Heritage Image Partnership Ltd / Alamy Stock PhotoFigure 6 Fashion design by Nadezhda Lamanova. From Tatiana Strizhenova, Soviet Costume an…Figure 7 Scene from Le train bleu by Jean Cocteau. © AFP / Getty Images

4 Chapter 6Figure 8 Sergei Diaghilev painted by Léon Bakst, 1906. Saint Petersburg, State Russian Mu…Figure 9 Kitmir Broderie poster

5 Chapter 8Figure 10 Paris World Expo 1937, Soviet pavilion on the right © AFP / Getty ImagesFigure 11 Model of the Palace of Soviets by Boris Iofan © ITAR-TASS News Agency / Alamy St…

6 Chapter 9Figure 12 Polina Zhemchuzhina at her deskFigure 13 Gabrielle Chanel in a sailor top with her dog © UtCon Collection / Alamy Stock P…Figure 14 Polina Zhemchuzhina with her husband Vyacheslav Molotov, Moscow 1963 © TopFotoFigure 15 Polina Zhemchuzhina’s grave in Moscow © Alexander Perepelitsyn / Alamy Stock PhotoFigure 16 Gabrielle Chanel’s grave in the Cimetière du Bois-de-Vaux, Lausanne © Phil Rees…

7 Chapter 12Figure 17 Olga ChekhovaFigure 18 Alexander A. BogomoletsFigure 19 Edition of the book by Alexander A. Bogomolets, The Prolongation of Life, Kiev, …

8 Chapter 14Figure 20 Kazimir Malevich’s bottle for Severny (‘North’) eau de cologne with polar bear, …Figure 21 Bottle of Rallet No. 1 © Philip Goutell, ‘Perfume Projects’, www.perfumeprojects…Figure 22 Shtof bottles: Universe of Water Museum, Saint Petersburg. Photographer: Georg S…

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The Scent of Empires

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