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ОглавлениеINTRODUCTION
Starting in Portugal’s capital, Lisbon, and ending in Santiago de Compostela in Spain, the 621km Portuguese Camino – ‘Caminho Português’ in Portuguese and ‘Camino Portugués’ in Spanish – has attracted pilgrims for many centuries. Count Henrique and Dona Teresa, the parents of Portugal’s first king, visited the Apostle’s tomb in 1097 (they later ordered an inn to be built for ‘pilgrims, the poor and the sick’ in Albergaria-a-Velha on the Central Camino); Queen (later Saint) Isabel undertook the journey in 1325 and 1335; while Jérôme Münzer (1494, a doctor from Nuremberg) and Giovanni Battista Confalonieri (1594, an Italian priest) wrote accounts so detailed that modern-day hikers will recognise shared experiences. There have been countless other voyagers, both the faithful and the intrepid, across the years.
The Camino follows Roman roads and crosses ancient bridges; it passes through villages, farmland and forests (and provides memorable Atlantic views on the Coastal Camino). Along the way there are four sites that are now designated UNESCO World Heritage Sites – Tomar’s magnificent Knights Templar castle, Coimbra University (one of Europe’s oldest), and the old towns of Porto and Santiago. Conímbriga Roman site with its exceptional mosaics is also a must-see. Walkers with time to spare might take a scenic river cruise down the Douro in Porto before continuing north and into the Minho region. There’s a wonderful albergue (hostel) in Ponte de Lima, Portugal’s oldest village, and before leaving Portugal there’s a chance to marvel at Valença’s ancient fort with panoramic views of medieval Tui over the River Minho in Spain.
The Coastal Camino passes through historic shipbuilding and fishing ports, important during Portugal’s ‘Age of Discoveries’. On this route, hikers can enjoy fresh seafood and experience an Atlantic sunset from Mt Santa Luzia above Viana do Castelo, one of the best views of the Camino.
On the approach to Santiago, many people visit the Roman altar stone believed to be that which the boat carrying the body of St James moored up against in Padrón. Then it’s a case of catching your breath and reflecting on your journey as you enter the old town of Santiago de Compostela, finishing at the steps of the magnificent cathedral in Praza do Obradoiro.
The list of cultural highlights is extensive, but often it’s encounters with other people that make the longest-lasting memories; the Portuguese are friendly, genuine and kind-hearted – so don’t be surprised if you’re invited for coffee and a pastel de nata (sweet pastry) soon after being introduced!
St James and the beginnings of Santiago de Compostela
Leaving Porto along Rua das Flores (Central Camino Stage 16)
St James the Great (Sant Iago), son of Zebedee and Salome, brother of John was a fisherman and disciple of Jesus. He is believed to have left Jerusalem to preach in the Iberian Peninsula but after returning to the Holy Land was murdered by King Herod Agrippa in AD44. His disciples brought his body back to Spain by boat, landing at Iria Flavia (present-day Padrón), near where he had preached. His body was then transported by ox and cart and buried on Mt Libredón.
In the ninth century (believed to be around 813–820) a hermit named Pelayo discovered the tomb by following stars shining down on a field. He notified Teodomiro, the Bishop of Iria Flavia, who sent word to King Alfonso II of Asturias. Alfonso travelled from Oviedo to the tomb in the field of stars, ‘campus stellae’, and ordered a church to be built on top. This was replaced with a grander church by Alfonso III, consecrated in 899.
In 997 the Moorish Caliph Almanzor attacked Santiago, stole the church’s bells and forced Christian slaves to transport them to the mosque in Cordoba (they were returned in the 13th century). The church was rebuilt, then in 1075, during the reign of Alfonso VI, work began on the grand-scale cathedral that exists today. The spectacular Romanesque Pórtico da Gloria by Maestro Mateo was completed in 1188; the cathedral was consecrated in 1211 and Santiago de Compostela became a place of holy pilgrimage alongside Jerusalem and Rome.
Portuguese history and the Camino
Prehistoric finds including petroglyphs (outside of Pontevedra on Stage 1 of the Spiritual Variant/Variante Espiritual) and megalithic tombs (Dolmen of Barrosa at Vila Praia de Âncora, Stage 4 of the Coastal Camino) pre-date the arrival of the Celts who came to the Iberian Peninsula around 1000BC and built fortified hilltop settlements (Viana do Castelo and A Guarda, Stages 3 and 5 of the Coastal Camino). The Romans arrived around 218BC and after initial resistance from the Lusitanian tribes they flourished, building bridges and a major road network. They introduced new salting techniques to preserve fish (seen in Praia de Angeiras, Stage 1A of the Coastal Camino) and cultivated wine, olive oil and cereals to export back to Rome. One of the best examples of Roman civilisation in Portugal is found in Conímbriga (Stage 9 of the Central Camino) – a key Roman settlement with spectacular mosaics. Portugal’s name derives from the Roman name for Porto, Portus Cale.
Roman mosaics, Conímbriga (Central Camino Stage 9)
Barbarian invasions accelerated the downfall of the Romans from the fifth century with the arrival of Alans, Vandals, Suevi and Visigoths, the latter being displaced by the Moors in the eighth century. Under Moorish rule Christians, Jews and Muslims lived alongside each other – although non-Muslims were taxed. The Moors left a lasting legacy which can be seen in place names (such as Alvaiázere and Alvorge), decorative ‘azulejo’ tiles, castles and food items such as citrus fruit and rice. The long Christian Reconquest reached a pivotal moment when Afonso Henriques captured Ourique in 1139, declaring himself King of the Portuguese nation. He went on to capture Santarém and Lisbon in 1147 and was formally recognised by Pope Alexander III as King of Portugal in 1179.
Portugal’s ‘Age of Discoveries’ reached its peak under King Manuel I when explorer Vasco da Gama discovered a sea route to India (1498) and Pedro Álvares Cabral discovered Brazil (1500). The Monarchy lasted until Manuel II ‘The Unfortunate’ abdicated in 1910 and a Republic was declared.
Praça da República, Tomar (Central Camino Stage 6)
Choosing your Camino
There are several options when it comes to choosing the route of your Camino, depending on the length of time you have at your disposal and your personal interests or preferences.
Central Camino (Caminho Central)
This historic route often follows Roman roads (Via XVI connecting Lisbon to Braga and Via XIX connecting Braga to Astorga) and the itineraries of medieval pilgrims such as Jérôme Münzer (a German doctor, 1494) and Giovanni Battista Confalonieri (an Italian priest, 1594), passing through the Ribatejo, Beira Litoral, Douro and Minho regions before crossing into Galicia in Spain.
To reach Santiago:
from Lisbon (621km), allow 25 days plus a few rest days to enjoy Tomar, Coimbra and Porto
from Porto (243km), allow 10 days plus a rest day to explore Pontevedra
from Tui (117km), just across the border in Spain, allow five days. This is a popular starting point for pilgrims with limited time but who want to complete the minimum 100km walking distance to be eligible for the Compostela.
Igreja de Bom Jesus da Cruz in Barcelos (Central Camino Stage 17)
Coastal Camino (Caminho da Costa)
Starting from Porto, the ‘younger’ Coastal route doesn’t always hug the coastline although it’s spectacular when it does. King Manuel visited Azurara and Vila do Conde (Stage 1) in 1502 on his pilgrimage (modern-day hikers can visit the churches he instructed to be built). Further north, the Church of Santiago in Castelo do Neiva (Stage 3) has the oldest inscription dedicated to Santiago outside of Spain, dated 862. In Viana do Castelo (also Stage 3) there’s the opportunity to visit the old pilgrim hospital, opened in 1468. On reaching the border in Caminha (Stage 5) there’s a choice: either cross the River Minho by boat into Spain then continue to follow the coast to Vigo, connecting with the Central Camino in Redondela; or follow the Minho east and join the Central Camino in Valença.
To reach Santiago:
from Porto (253/263km), allow 10 to 12 days depending on where you rejoin the central route. If you have time for rest days, consider choosing Viana do Castelo then Vigo to visit the Cíes Islands.
from Vigo (100km), allow 4 to 5 days. This is the minimum walking distance required to be eligible for the Compostela.
View of the Basílica de Santa Luzia at sunset from the Pousada in Viana do Castelo (Coastal Camino Stage 3)
Seaside Path (Senda Litoral)
This seaside route along the Portuguese coastline is a work in progress consisting of sections of boardwalks, esplanades and cycle paths. Although it’s not currently possible to follow these paths all the way from Porto to Caminha, the Coastal Camino utilises them on a few occasions.
Spiritual Variant (Variante Espiritual)
An exceptionally scenic route between Pontevedra and Padrón, culminating in an optional boat ride following the maritime Translatio route which the boat carrying St James’ body and his disciples is believed to have sailed along in AD44.
Distance (taking the boat): 46.1km – allow 2–3 days, depending on the boat schedule
Distance (all walking): 77.9km – allow 3 days
Other routes
The following Portuguese routes are not described in this guide:
Fátima route – Caminho de Tejo and Caminho Nascente
The Central Camino from Lisbon follows both blue Fátima waymarks and yellow Santiago waymarks until Santarém, where the two routes split. It’s possible to walk from Santarém to Fátima in two days (58km) then one day from Fátima to Tomar (29.5km), rejoining the Central Camino for Stage 7. This is a beautiful yet challenging mountainous Camino; for more information see www.caminho.com.pt
Braga route – Caminho de Braga
This route starts in Porto and travels to the Roman city of Braga, home to Portugal’s oldest cathedral, before joining the Central Camino in Ponte de Lima (Stage 18).
Interior route – Caminho Interior
Starting in Viseu, the interior route travels north through Chaves, crossing into Spain near Verín, then connects with the Camino Sanabres leg of the Vía de la Plata.
Other factors
There are other factors to take into consideration when choosing your Camino.
Budget
The number of albergues is increasing year on year and there are plenty from Porto onwards. Between Lisbon and Porto some nights in a private hostel or pension will be unavoidable. Expect to pay between €5 and €8 for albergues and between €10 and €25 for hostels and budget accommodation. Food is generally cheaper in Portugal than Spain and if you’re travelling as a couple you may even be able to share evening meals as portions are large.
Pastel de nata: sweet pastries, difficult to resist along the Camino!
Physical fitness
With just a few exceptions, there is no great elevation gain; there is, however, a considerable amount of walking on paved and cobbled paths/roads which can be hard on your feet – especially when walking for 6–7 hours, day after day. Some stages may require you to walk more than 25km per day on consecutive days, so a general level of fitness is required. Try to build up your fitness at home by walking on consecutive days and carrying your full pack; this way you can address any niggles and sore spots before starting. The most common problems are blisters, dehydration and back-ache from carrying too much weight, but these issues can be remedied by stopping as soon as you feel a hot spot and applying a plaster, keeping your fluids up and packing as light as possible. Always listen to your body and rest when you need to.
Essential pilgrim information
Credential and stamps
Credential, scallop shell and Compostela
Typically, pilgrims collect stamps (carimbo/sello) in a credential, which is required in order to stay in albergues, and also acts as proof of your pilgrimage, enabling you to receive the Compostela (certificate of completion of pilgrimage) in Santiago.
The all-important credential is available in the following places:
Lisbon
cathedral, open Sun–Mon 9am–5pm, Tues–Sat 9am–7pm
Basílica dos Mártires on Rua Serpa Pinto, open Mon–Fri 9am–7pm, Sat–Sun 10am–7.30pm
Porto
cathedral, open daily 9am–6.30pm (closed Sunday 12.30–2.30pm)
Tui
cathedral, open daily 10.45am–1pm & 4–8pm (May–Jun); Mon–Sat 10.45am–8pm, Sun 10.45am–1pm & 4–8pm (Jun–Sep); daily 10.45am–1pm & 4–7pm (Sep–May)
If you want to leave home equipped with a credential, contact the pilgrim association nearest you. There is a directory of associations at www.caminodesantiago.gal (English-language option available). You can also purchase one from the store on this popular Camino forum: www.santiagodecompostela.me
You need to collect at least one stamp per day (two during the last 100km) in your credential to be eligible for the Compostela. Stamps can often be obtained from albergues, churches, turismos (tourist offices), Junta de Freguesia (parish board)/Câmara Municipal (city hall) in Portugal, museums, cafés, bars, restaurants, government buildings and many other businesses.
Shell
This is a symbol of St James that is carried by many pilgrims, often attached to backpacks. In book five of The Codex Calixtinus, the first ever ‘Pilgrim’s Guide’ written in the 12th century about the Camino Frances, there is a record of shells being sold to pilgrims outside Santiago Cathedral. There are many legends relating to how and why the shell became the symbol of St James; one states that as the boat carrying his martyred body approached Galicia, it hit a storm and he was washed overboard only to be found on a beach covered in scallop shells. It is also thought pilgrims used the shell as a scoop for food and water.
If desired, shells can be obtained from Lisbon at the Alpriate Albergue (end of first stage from Lisbon, a plastic version); Porto at the Arte Sacra shop opposite Clérigos Tower, Rua da Assunção no.36; Tui at the Baixo Minho shop on Rúa Ordóñez; or online from www.santiagodecompostela.me
Compostela
This is the official certificate confirming your pilgrimage, provided you fulfil the following requirements: you walked at least the last 100km to Santiago (from Tui on the Central Camino or Vigo on the Coastal Camino); you have a stamped credential (with at least two stamps per day in the last 100km); your motivation for walking was spiritual or religious. Pilgrims with different motivations will receive a document called the ‘certificado’.
The Compostela is available in Santiago from the Pilgrim’s Office, Rúa Carretas no.33.
Pilgrim etiquette
It’s worth remembering at the end of a long day when you’re possibly tired, hungry, aching and longing for a bed, that many of the people working in albergues are volunteers who have given up their time to help you. Perhaps the albergue is full and you have to keep walking, but don’t despair: the Camino has a way of providing and you may end up with a great story to tell. Respect your fellow pilgrims and the locals, and cherish the incredible friendships that you’ll no doubt form.
Getting there and getting away
Lisbon
Arco da Rua Augusta, Praça do Comércio in Lisbon
By air
Lisbon’s Humberto Delgado airport is 7km from the city centre. Its website (www.aeroportolisboa.pt) gives details of flight operators from destinations across the world. Transport from the airport includes:
metro – a journey of about 20 minutes, at €1.90 (including 50 cents for the ‘Viva Viagem’ rechargeable card). Take the red line to Alameda then change onto the green line for Rossio (depending on where you’re staying). See www.metrolisboa.pt
bus – Aerobus runs every 20–25 minutes, at €3.50. You can purchase a ticket from the driver. See www.aerobus.pt
taxi – expect to pay €12–15 to the city centre
By rail
Santa Apolónia or Parque das Nações are the two stations you’re likely to arrive at if coming from Porto or abroad. Santa Apolónia is closest to the centre but both have metro connections: see www.cp.pt.
By bus
Sete Rios in the north west of Lisbon is the arrival point for long-distance bus travel with Eurolines (www.eurolines.com), Rede Expressos (www.rede-expressos.pt) and InterNorte (www.internorte.pt). The closest metro is a few minutes’ walk at Jardim Zoologico on the blue line.
Gare do Oriente bus station in the Parque das Nações area is the arrival point for northern Portugal and Spanish travel; see Renex (www.renex.pt), Internorte (www.internorte.pt), and Avanza (www.avanzabus.com). Gare do Oriente metro station is on the red line; change at Alameda onto the green line to Rossio for the centre.
Porto
Porto and Ponte D Luís I
By air
Porto’s Francisco Sá Carneiro airport (www.aeroportoporto.pt) is 20km from the city centre. Transport from the airport includes:
metro – about 30 minutes, at €2.45 (including 60 cents for the ‘Andante’ rechargeable card). Take the purple line ‘E’ and get off at Trindade (depending on where you’re staying). See www.metrodoporto.pt
bus – Terravision runs an hourly bus to Aliados on Praça da Liberdade. It costs €5 and takes 30 minutes; see www.terravision.eu. The local 601 bus runs every 30 minutes and takes 30 minutes, at €1.85 (buy a ticket onboard). Get off at the last stop ‘Cordoaria’ next to Clérigos Tower.
taxi – expect to pay €20–30 to the city centre
By rail
Campanhã station is the arrival point for long-distance and international trains, and there are four metro lines connecting this station to the centre. See www.cp.pt
By bus
Bus stations vary by company. For domestic travel, see Rede Expressos (www.rede-expressos.pt); for international travel, see InterNorte (www.internorte.pt), Eurolines (www.eurolines.com) and Alsa (www.alsa.es).
Tui
By air
Vigo-Peinador airport (www.aena.es) is the closest airport to Tui, 24km away. From the airport, take a taxi to Vigo or Redondela (about €23), then take a train (www.renfe.es) to Tui. There is also a local bus between the airport and Vigo centre (line L9A, www.vitrasa.es) requiring you to either walk or take a taxi to Vigo Urzaiz train station for onward trains to Tui.
By rail
Tui’s train station is 1.3km from the cathedral; see www.renfe.es for information.
By bus
Alsa (www.alsa.es) connects Tui with Porto and Spanish destinations. Monbus (www.monbus.es) connects Tui with Pontevedra.
Leaving Santiago
By air
Santiago’s Lavacolla airport (www.aena.es) is 10km from the city. To reach it, there are the following options:
bus – the airport bus (€3, 45 minutes) departs from Praza de Galicia twice hourly. See www.empresafreire.com
taxi – taxis take approximately 15 minutes and cost around €21
Airports in A Coruña (70km north) and Vigo (90km south) are accessible by train then bus/taxi.
By rail
The train station is 1.2km south of the cathedral. There is a Renfe ticket counter inside the pilgrim’s office. See www.renfe.com
By bus
The bus station is at Praza de Camilo Díaz Baliño, 1.6km north-east of the cathedral; see www.tussa.org. There’s an Alsa ticket counter inside the pilgrim’s office (www.alsa.es).
See Appendix C for a list of all transport contacts.
When to go
April to October is the most popular time, with peak numbers in July and August which are also the hottest months. Spring brings wildflowers and comfortable walking temperatures but you may also experience days of rain. In summer (with temperatures reaching over 30˚C), coastal accommodation is extremely busy and requires advanced booking. In winter many albergues and some coastal hotels close, so plan ahead and expect rain. Although typically drier in the summer months, Galicia is known for its wet weather, so pack a rain jacket or poncho no matter the time of year.
For detailed climate information, see www.ipma.pt (for Portugal) and www.aemet.es (for Spain).
Blossoms on a country lane near Ansião (Central Camino Stage 8)
Festivals and annual events
Timing your Camino to coincide with (or avoid) one of the many festivals held in Portugal and Spain may be just as important to you as deciding on where to begin, so the following table should provide a handy reference. There may be additional regional holidays observed. To confirm festival dates and for detailed information, contact the local tourist office – see Appendix C.
| Month | Day | Festival | Location |
| Portugal | |||
| January | 1 | New Year’s Day | National |
| February/March | Carnival Shrove Tuesday | National | |
| February/March | International Film Festival | Porto | |
| March | 19 | St Joseph’s Day | Santarém |
| March/April | Good Friday | National | |
| April | 25 | Liberty Day | National |
| May | 1 | Labour Day | National |
| Early | Festival of the Crosses, municipal holiday | Barcelos | |
| Mid | End of university year ‘Burning of the Ribbons’ | Coimbra | |
| Late | May Fair | Azambuja | |
| May/June | Corpus Christi | National | |
| June | Early | National and Agricultural Fair | Santarém |
| 10 | Portuguese National Day | National | |
| 12, 13 | St Anthony’s Day | Lisbon | |
| 23, 24 | St John’s Day | Porto, Vila do Conde | |
| Late | Horse fair | Ponte de Lima | |
| July | Early | Red Waistcoat Festival | Vila Franca de Xira |
| Whole month | Agit Águeda Art Festival | Águeda | |
| Early | International Short Film Festival | Vila do Conde | |
| 4 | Saint Isabel Festival and Municipal Holiday | Coimbra | |
| 2019, 2023 | Festival of the Trays | Tomar | |
| August | 15 | Feast of the Assumption | National |
| Mid | Pilgrimage of Our Lady of Agony | Viana do Castelo | |
| Whole month | Expect coastal towns to be busy | Coastal Camino | |
| September | Mid | New Fair | Ponte de Lima |
| Late | Annual Fair | Vila Franca de Xira | |
| October | 5 | Republic Day | National |
| First half | October Fair | Vila Franca de Xira | |
| Mid | Beginning of university year ‘Can Festival’ | Coimbra | |
| Late Oct/early Nov | National Gastronomy Festival | Santarém | |
| November | 1 | All Saints Day | National |
| First half | National Horse Fair | Golegã | |
| December | 1 | Independence Day | National |
| 8 | Feast of the Immaculate Conception | National | |
| 25 | Christmas Day | National | |
| Spain | |||
| January | 1 | New Year’s Day | National |
| 6 | Epiphany Day | National | |
| March | End | Reconquest of Vigo | Vigo |
| April | Early | Oyster Festival | Arcade |
| Mid | Festivities of San Telmo | Tui | |
| May | 1 | Labour Day | National |
| Mid | Cuttlefish Festival | Redondela | |
| 6 | Festivities of St John of Lightning | Padrón | |
| 25 | Ascension Festival | Santiago | |
| June | 5 | Virgin of the Sea Festival | Oia |
| 13 | Rose Festival | Mos | |
| 24 | St John’s Day | Caldas de Reis | |
| July | 11 | St Benedict’s Day | Pontevedra, O Porriño |
| 18 | St Marina’s Day | Baiona | |
| 25 | St James Day | Santiago | |
| August | 7 | Festivities of San Mamede | Mos, Oia |
| 15 | Assumption | National | |
| 16 | Festivities of San Roque | Santiago, Caldas de Reis, Vigo | |
| Mid | Festivities of the Virgin Pilgrim | Pontevedra | |
| September | 25 | Festivities of Santísimo Cristo de la Agonía | O Porriño |
| 26 | Festivities of San Cosme and San Damián | Baiona | |
| October | 12 | National Day | National |
| November | 1 | All Saints Day | National |
| December | 6 | Spanish Constitution Day | National |
| 8 | Feast of the Immaculate Conception | National | |
| 25 | Christmas Day | National | |
| bold denotes national holiday |
Holy Year
A Holy or Jubilee year is every year that St James Day (25 July) falls on a Sunday. This occurs every six, five, six and 11 years. The next will be in 2021, then 2027 and 2032. During a Holy year, the Holy Door (Porta Santa) of Santiago Cathedral is opened and pilgrims may pass through it.
Accommodation
As a general rule, all accommodation except albergues can be pre-booked and phone numbers/websites are listed in this guide where available. However, the listed options are not exhaustive, and additional accommodation can be found through websites such as www.booking.com as well as local tourist offices (see Appendix C). During peak holiday/festival times and summer, expect small towns and coastal towns along the Coastal Camino to book up.
Albergue
This is accommodation often run by a pilgrim organisation/church/municipality, available only for pilgrims carrying the credential. Albergues usually feature dorm-style accommodation (bunk beds) with communal bathrooms, a place to hand-wash clothes (although increasingly they have washing machines), and most have kitchen facilities. Disposable sheets may be provided and sometimes a pillow, but you are expected to bring a sleeping bag.
Unless privately owned, bookings are not permitted and beds are allocated on a first-come basis. ‘Lights-out’ is 9 or 10pm, depending on the season, and you are expected to leave by 8am. Some operate on a ‘donativo’ (donation) basis, in which case a minimum donation of €5 is appreciated. Others may be from €5–15, depending on whether they are run by the council or private. Staying in albergues is a great way to get to know your fellow pilgrims and lasting memories can be made through cooking and sharing meals together.
Bunks in an albergue at Rubiães (Central Camino Stage 19)
Albergue de Peregrinos in Alpriate (Central Camino Stage 1)
Hostel
These are privately run, often with private rooms in addition to dorm-style accommodation, with communal facilities. They are not exclusive to pilgrims. Prices generally start from €10 and bookings are permitted.
Pousadas de Juventude
Not to be confused with Pousadas (see below), these are youth hostels and are often in great locations, with terrific facilities. They can be used by people of any age or nationality. Prices range from €8–15pp for dorm rooms and some offer discounts to pilgrims with a credential; see www.pousadasjuventude.pt.
Pensão and residencial
Low-budget private accommodation (sometimes rooms in a house or apartment), often with communal bathrooms. Prices vary from €15–30 per room, depending on location.
Bombeiros Voluntários (Volunteer Firefighters)
As pilgrim numbers increase, this service has been declining; however, some fire stations still allow pilgrims to use their lodging overnight. Facilities may be basic and/or you may need your own mattress. Enquire at the local tourist office for details. Beds may be free of charge or offered on a donation basis.
Quinta
A quinta is a large country house that has accommodation, often similar to a B&B. Prices tend to start from €30 per room.
Pousada and Parador
At the top end of the scale is the restored luxury accommodation in historic castles, convents or palaces. These are called Pousadas in Portugal (www.pousadas.pt) and Paradors in Spain (www.parador.es). Outside of peak periods you may be surprised to find luxurious rooms available from €50; otherwise expect upwards of €70 per room.
Food and drink
Portugal
Breakfast (pequeno almoço), often served from 7.30am, typically consists of a sweet pastry followed by a coffee. Served in a café, cake shop (pastelaria) or bakery (padaria), it will cost you €2–3 in a city and less in smaller towns. Lunch (almoço) is from 12–2.30pm and for locals tends to be a leisurely three-course meal of the day (menu do dia) in a restaurant or pastelaria, costing €7–15. If you want a sit-down meal but not the three courses, there’s the plate of the day (prato do dia) at €3–6. Typical main meals include fish/pork/beef with potatoes, rice and vegetables. For a quick lunch, toasted sandwiches (tosta mista for ham and cheese, for example) are a cheap and filling option. Dinner (jantar), served from 7–9.30pm, can be eaten at BBQ restaurants (churrasqueira), bars (cervejaria) and seafood restaurants (marisqueira) for €7–15. If you’re on a budget, a bowl of soup (sopa) and basket of bread (pão) will set you back about €2–4, or if travelling as a couple, one portion (dose) shared between two will usually suffice as portion sizes are large. Half-portions may be available – ask for meia dose.
Almost every Portuguese town has their own speciality when it comes to sweet pastries but the most famous of all is the pastel de nata (custard tart). The national dish is salted cod (bacalhau) and it’s said there are more than 365 ways of cooking it! Drinks include wine (vinho verde and Albarinho from the Minho region are very popular), Licor Beirão (a sweet digestif), ginjinha (cherry brandy) and port, among others.
Cover charge (couvert)
Unlike free tapas in Spain, when you sit down in restaurants in Portugal you are often served small plates of food (olives, cheese, bread, meats) that you haven’t ordered. This acts as a cover charge and you will be charged for what you eat, or simply ask for them to be taken away (and you won’t be charged).
Spain
Breakfast (desayuno), served from 8am, usually consists of a croissant, churros (sugary fried stick of dough, often accompanied by a hot chocolate) or toast. A hot drink and pastry/toast will cost around €2–3. Lunch (almuerzo), from 1.30–3pm, varies from a sit-down meal of the day (menú del día, €7–15) or single-course dish (plato combinado, €5–8) in a restaurant, to a filled roll (bocadillo) or slice of tortilla in a café/bar. Bakeries (panadería) and cake shops (pastelaría) also sell savoury snacks, including slices of empanada (like an English pastie but filled with seafood/beef/pork/chicken) which cost €2–5. Dinner (cena) is usually served from 8–10pm. Many bars offer free small tapas when you buy a drink, and raciones are larger portions of tapas, good for sharing with a group.
You’ll encounter regional specialities including oysters (ostras) in Arcade, cuttlefish (chocos) in Redondela, empanadas (Pontevedra’s speciality is empanada de maiz, made with corn flour), Galician-style octopus (pulpo a la Gallega), Padrón peppers (pimientos de Padrón) and Santiago almond tart (tarta de Santiago). Local drinks include wine (Albarino, Ribeiro, Godello, Mencia and more), aguardiente (also known as orujo – distilled liqueur with flavours including herbal, coffee, cream and honey), Estrella Galicia beer and Nordés Galician gin, among others.
Pilgrim menus
These are popular in cafés/restaurants along the Camino, often involving a three-course meal including soup/salad, main meal, dessert and wine/water for about €8–12.
Vegetarians
Meat and seafood dominate menus in both Portugal and Galicia, so vegetarians may feel their choices lacking in comparison to those of meat-eaters. Most restaurants serve salads and soup (although note that caldo verde comes with sliced chorizo in Portugal), and typical sides include potato, rice and vegetables (often cabbage). Staying in albergues/hostels with communal kitchen facilities will allow you to cook your own meals.
Useful information
Via Lusitana
Via Lusitana (www.vialusitana.org) is a friendly pilgrim organisation in Portugal with a 24-hour helpline: (+351) 915 595 213. It operates albergues in Alpriate and Albergaria-a-Velha. To volunteer as a hospitalero or to donate to the association, visit their website for details.
Bedbugs
They may not be a nice thought, but often a topic of conversation along all Caminos is the dreaded bedbug – percevejos in Portuguese, chinches in Spanish. They live in bedding, are mainly active at night and feed on blood. Check the sheets and around the mattress for signs of rusty/reddish stains, tiny black spots, or eggs. If you think you’ve been bitten (usually in a row of three, itchier/longer-lasting than a mosquito bite):
inform the owner of the accommodation where you are (and where you came from if they developed during the day)
place all of your clothes and sleeping bag in a hot dryer (the hottest setting possible without melting your belongings) for a minimum of two hours
place your backpack and anything else that may have come into contact with the bed in a garbage bag and put it in the sun or a hot room if available
seek advice from the accommodation owners as they may have their own methods of treatment
| Portugal | Spain | |
| National emergency number | 112 | |
| International dialling code | +351 | +34 |
| Currency | Euro | |
| Electrical power | 220V | |
| Time | GMT (winter), GMT +1 (summer) | GMT +1 (winter), GMT +2 (summer) |
| Language | Portuguese | Spanish (Castellano) is the main language. The Camino enters Spain in Galicia, which also has a regional language called Galego |
| Drinking water | You can fill up your water bottle at accommodation, cafés/bars and fontes (springs) unless there is a sign stating the water is non-potable: Portuguese – água não potável; Spanish – agua no potable | |
| Internet | Wi-Fi is widely available in cafés, bars, restaurants, accommodation and tourist offices | |
| Money/banks | Albergues, budget accommodation and many cafés accept cash only. Banking hours are Monday to Friday 8.30am–3pm, but you will find ATMs in most towns | |
| Museums | Mostly closed on Mondays. Many offer free entrance Sunday mornings | Mostly closed on Mondays |
| Pharmacy | Typically open Monday to Friday 9am–7pm, and Saturdays 9am–1pm | Typically open Monday to Friday 9.30–2pm and 4.30–8pm, Saturdays 9.30am–2pm |
| Phones | Some public payphones take coins but many use a phone card, available from post offices and news-stands. Another option is to purchase a prepaid sim card on arrival (Vodafone has shops at Lisbon and Porto airports), or use your existing sim on roaming (check your network charges for this option) | |
| Post | CTT (Correios, Telégrafos e Telefonos) hours are generally Monday to Friday 9am–6pm. Some city locations may be open at the weekend | Correos hours vary greatly; for smaller locations expect opening times to be Monday to Friday 8.30am–2.30pm and Saturday 9.30am–1pm. For city centre locations hours can be Monday to Friday 8.30am–8:30pm, Saturdays 9.30am–1pm |
Some people recommend using a bed-bug liner and bed-bug sleep sheet, but it’s no guarantee you won’t get bitten.
Language
Walking the Portuguese Camino means travelling through Portugal (where Portuguese is the national language) and entering Spain in Galicia, where the regional Galician (Galego) language is used in addition to Spanish (Castellano). Although English is widely spoken throughout Portugal, the Camino passes through many small villages with an ageing population and you may have difficulty making yourself understood. If you can speak Spanish and speak slowly you will often be understood in Portugal, but the reverse doesn’t necessarily apply if you’re trying to speak Portuguese and be understood in Spain. English is not as commonly spoken in Galicia as it is in Portugal, so if you don’t speak Spanish you may find communication more taxing. Learning a few basic phrases before you set off could make for a smoother journey.
Throughout both Portugal and Spain, most bars and cafés have Wi-Fi, so if travelling with a smartphone you can enlist the help of an online translation tool. Or you can refer to the glossary in Appendix B of this guide, or carry one of the many pocket phrasebooks published by Lonely Planet, Collins, Berlitz and others. If you’d like to do some learning in advance, the BBC has free language lessons at www.bbc.co.uk/languages.
Foreign terms used in this guide
Some foreign words used throughout this guide and their translations include:
Portuguese:azulejo (decorative tile), capela (chapel), convento (convent), fonte (drinking fountain), igreja (church), igreja matriz/paroquial (mother/parish church), jardim (garden), mercado (market), moinho de vento (windmill), mosteiro (monastery), museu (museum), parque (park), ponte (bridge), praça (plaza), quinta (farmhouse).
Galician:igrexa (Spanish: iglesia/English: church), auga (agua/water), capela (capilla/chapel), convento (convent), fonte (fuente/drinking fountain), hórreo (granary), mosteiro (monasterio/monastery), muíño (molino/mill), museo (museum), parque (park), ponte (puente/bridge), praza (plaza/plaza), xardín (jardín/garden).
For a more comprehensive list of Portuguese and Spanish terms, see Appendix B.
Preparation and training
Walking a Camino is a rewarding experience but it can be physically and mentally challenging. Consider taking these few steps before you leave, for a more enjoyable time:
1 If you’re buying new shoes or boots, break them in at home
2 Make sure your pack fits comfortably and start wearing it as soon and as much as possible
3 If you’re new to walking, start with short distances and increase the distance week by week, then walk longer distances back-to-back at the weekends
If you’ve had no time to train before leaving for your Camino, remember to take it easy at the beginning and allow your body to adjust.
What to take
Pack light, as you can buy most things along the way; however, you may find drugs like painkillers and anti-inflammatories more expensive so bring your own. The following is a general guide based on travelling between spring and autumn. If walking in winter, pack a warmer sleeping bag, warmer clothes and good-quality wet-weather gear.
Essential items: passport, travel insurance, credit cards and cash, credential (the credential is also available in Portugal/Spain).
Footwear: whether you wear hiking shoes or light hiking boots, make sure they’re broken in and comfortable. You will be walking on earthen tracks, pavements, roads and cobbles. Lightweight sandals or flip-flops are useful for showering in and wearing in the evenings.
Clothes: three sets of socks and underwear is a handy rule that will allow you to wear one, wash one and have a spare. One long-sleeved quick-drying shirt is all you need for walking (long-sleeves provide sun protection), along with an evening top to change into while you wash the walking shirt. One pair of trousers/shorts/skirt is also enough. A fleece is useful for cooler days, early mornings and evenings. Many people wear base-layers or lightweight clothing to sleep in. Stay away from cotton; lightweight and quick-drying synthetics or merino is best and worth the investment.
Raingear: a good rain jacket and rain trouser combination or poncho is essential almost all year round. If you use a rain jacket and rain trousers, consider using a pack cover as well as a dry-bag liner inside your pack. With a poncho, a dry-bag inside your pack should be sufficient to keep your belongings dry.
Sleeping bag: a lightweight two-season sleeping bag will be fine unless you’re walking in winter when you should consider something warmer.
Backpack: along with your footwear, this is the most important thing you’ll be taking on the Camino, so it’s essential you have a good-fitting, comfortable pack. A 40-litre pack is enough. For evenings, a lightweight daypack or cloth bag is useful.
Water: whether you like to use a bladder or Nalgene bottle, ensure you have something to carry water in.
Headlamp and spare batteries: useful in albergues or starting early to avoid the summer heat. Use the red infrared setting, if possible, in albergues when others are sleeping.
Towel: take a lightweight, quick-drying compact towel.
Electronics: take a European travel adaptor if coming from abroad, and although common-sense, never leave anything unattended while it’s charging.
First aid kit: take a compact kit including plasters, painkillers, anti-inflammatories, antihistamines, antiseptic cream, scissors, tweezers, Imodium and any medicine you require on a daily basis.
Toiletries: you’ll need shampoo (travel-size bottles or a Lush shampoo bar), multi-purpose soap (for clothes and body), toothbrush, toothpaste, tissues, sunscreen, lip-balm, brush/comb and any sanitary products.
Other gear: consider also taking trekking poles, hat, sunglasses, buff/scarf, antibacterial hand-gel, zip-lock bags (for rubbish), utensils (spork and cup), ear plugs, eye mask, camp-pillow, safety pins (for hanging wet clothes on your pack), needle and thread (for blisters or sewing), clothes pegs.
Luggage transfers
Companies operating a luggage transport service, from accommodation to accommodation, include Tuitrans www.tuitrans.com and Camino Facil www.caminofacil.net (Porto–Santiago) or Paq Mochila through the Spanish postal system, www.elcaminoconcorreos.com (Tui–Santiago).
Waymarking and GPS
Various waymarks along the Camino; the blue boot signals left for Fátima, the yellow one right for Santiago
If starting from Lisbon, you’ll be following blue Fátima arrows as well as yellow Santiago arrows until Santarém when the two routes split. After Santarém, if you’re ever unsure whether you’re going the right way and you haven’t seen a yellow arrow, look behind – if you see a blue Fátima arrow (heading south) you’ll know you’re on the right track.
For the most part, the Camino is well waymarked with yellow arrows and scallop shell markers, or an ‘X’ meaning wrong way. Desvio means detour and will often be accompanied by a map displaying the available options.
Extra detailed descriptions have been given in this guide for entering/exiting cities as the arrows (on street lamps, behind road signs, painted on the pavement) can easily be hidden behind cars, posters etc. Outside of built-up areas, arrows may be painted on rocks, trees, signs… you’ll get used to looking for them everywhere! There are new brown waymarks on the pavement through many towns on the Coastal Camino in Portugal, although they’re not as obvious as the blue/yellow waymarks so you may need to look more carefully.
A GPS is not required, although GPX tracks are available online if you would like to download them to a smartphone or tablet: www.cicerone.co.uk/932/GPX.
In an effort to move the Central route away from busy roads and highways, the route has been changing and improving with pilgrim-friendly infrastructure each year. Every effort has been made to provide up-to-date, accurate and clear directions, and further updates will be posted online at www.cicerone.co.uk/932/updates.
Using this guide
Each stage begins with an information box giving the start/finish points, distance, total ascent/descent, difficulty rating (easy, moderate or hard – based on a combination of distance, ascent and walking time), duration, details of any cafés and accommodation, and special notes. Distances for cafés and accommodation are cumulative; for example, ‘Coimbra (28.7km)’ indicates that from the start of the stage to the accommodation in Coimbra is 28.7km, and ‘Conímbriga (12km +210m)’ indicates that the accommodation is a 210m detour off the Camino.
Following the information box is a short introduction with an overview of the stage, and then detailed route directions. Stage maps are provided at a scale of 1:100,000, as well as elevation profiles. Points of interest along the way are noted, as are any facilities that you may pass. (All prices are accurate at the time of writing in autumn 2017. Accommodation prices when stated are based on starting prices for one person, and star ratings are ‘official’ regional ratings rather than recommendations.) Keywords in bold in the route description relate to features that you will also see on the map for that stage, so you can cross-reference where you are. The following abbreviations are used: ‘KSO’ – keep straight on, ‘LHS’ – left-hand side, ‘RHS’ – right-hand side, and ‘NM’ – national monument.
In the route descriptions, distances in brackets (2.2km) within paragraphs measure from the previous given distance, while distances at the end of paragraphs – for example 6.2km/22.8km – represent first the total distance described in that paragraph (6.2km) and then the total cumulative distance for the stage (22.8km).
Throughout the route description, as well as on road signs and many maps, Portuguese national highways have the prefix ‘N’ followed by the highway number (N1, for example), and ‘M’ is used for municipal roads (M538). You may also see the same roads denoted with ‘En’ (Estrada Nacional), ‘Em’ (Estrada Municipais) or CM (Caminho Municipais).
The Galician spelling of names for places such as churches, chapels and bridges, which differs slightly from the Spanish, is used in the Galician section of the route description as this is what you’ll encounter first on signs in that region.
Leave no trace
Pilgrim numbers have been increasing year-on-year and the Portuguese Camino is now the second most-walked Camino after the Camino Frances – which, sadly, also means an increase in rubbish along the way. Zip-lock bags are handy for disposing of tissues/rubbish. Leave only footprints!
