Читать книгу The Camino Portugues - Kat Davis - Страница 13
ОглавлениеSTAGE 1
Lisbon to Alpriate
| Start | Lisbon Cathedral |
| Finish | Albergue de Peregrinos, Alpriate |
| Distance | 21.8km |
| Total ascent | 161m |
| Total descent | 170m |
| Difficulty | Easy |
| Time | 5–6hr |
| Cafés | Lisbon, Parque das Nações (7.5km), Sacavém (12.7km), Granja (20.2km +130m), Alpriate (21.8km) |
| Accommodation | Lisbon, Parque das Nações (7.5km), Alpriate (21.8km) |
| Note | You can get a credential from Lisbon’s cathedral or Basílica dos Mártires. The albergue in Alpriate has limited space (12 beds). |
| Waymarking | Follow both blue Fátima and yellow Santiago waymarks until Santarém (Stage 4). |
Starting at Lisbon’s cathedral, this initial stage takes you past the Fado and tile museums before arriving in Parque das Nações with nearby Oriente train station and accommodation – a convenient stop-off if you want more time to explore the city’s delights. The route then continues along a scenic esplanade by the River Tagus where you can look out for flamingos, before following the Trancão tributary and ending in Alpriate.
Find the yellow arrow on the bottom right corner of the cathedral entrance facade and take the street to the right, Cruzes da Sé, heading east. Continue into Rua de São João da Praça, through Largo de São Rafael, take the right fork at the orange building onto Rua de São Pedro, then keep right into Largo do Chafariz de Dentro (580m). The Museu do Fado is across the road: www.museudofado.pt, closed Mondays, €5. Cross the square onto Rua dos Remédios, go uphill and straight into Rua do Paraiso, under an arch, into Rua do Mirante then downhill. KSO across a junction into Rua da Cruz de Santa Apolónia, passing Café Santa Clara (RH corner), and go straight onto Calçada da Cruz da Pedra, passing the Santa Apolonia container terminal (RHS) then taking the right fork onto Rua Madre de Deus. Shortly after, pass the Museu Nacional do Azulejo. 2.7km
This decorative tile museum is housed in the opulent 16th-century Mosteiro da Madre de Deus and includes a panoramic Lisbon pre-earthquake cityscape. (Rua da Madre de Deus 4, www.museudoazulejo.pt, closed Mondays, €5.)
Continue under the railway line into Rua de Xabregas, Calçada Dom Gastão, Rua do Grilo, Rua do Beato, then pass old warehouses on Rua do Açúcar. Keep right at the leafy Praça David Leandro da Silva opposite the former splendid wine warehouse Abel Pereira da Fonseca (2.2km). Built in 1917, grapevines surround the large wine barrel-like round windows. Go straight into Rua Fernando Palha. At the next junction cross Av Infante Dom Henrique, turning left then immediately right onto Rua do Vale Formoso. Follow this for 1.2km before going through an underpass then take the first right onto Rua Gaivotas em Terra, then left onto Av Fernando Pessoa. Pass a Pingo Doce supermarket (LHS) before reaching a roundabout at the beginning of the Parque das Nações. 4.8km/7.5km
Developed for the 1998 World Expo, ‘Nations Park’ includes an Oceanarium, Casino, Vasco da Gama Tower, cable car, gardens, monuments and the impressive Oriente station, designed by Santiago Calatrava.
Accommodation nearby: Pousada de Juventude-Parque das Nações (Rua de Moscavide, tel 218 920 890, www.pousadasjuventude.pt, shared and private rooms, kitchen, €16+, +2.1km). TRYP Lisboa Oriente (Av Dom João II, tel 218 930 000, www.tryporiente.com, +1km). ***Hotel Ibis Lisboa Parque das Nações (Rua do Mar Vermelho, tel 213 180 049, www.ibis.com, +1.1km). ****VIP Executive Arts Hotel (Av Dom João II 47, tel 210 020 400, www.viphotels.com, +1.4km).
Vasco da Gama Tower, Parque das Nações
Cross the roundabout, passing the large Pavilhão do Conhecimento (science and technology museum, RHS), then turn right through the trees towards the Oceanarium and the River Tagus. This is the longest waterway in Portugal and Spain, running for approximately 1007km from Spain’s Serra de Albarracín to the Atlantic Ocean. Turn left to follow the river for the next 4km through the expo development. (For Oriente station and Vasco da Gama Mall with shops, supermarket and food court, turn left at the MEO Arena.) Pass the sail-shaped Vasco da Gama Tower. Vasco da Gama (1460–1524) was the first explorer to sail from Europe to India. The observation tower (145m) is Lisbon’s tallest building. About 800m further on, pass a statue of Queen Catherine of Braganza then join a wooden boardwalk and go under Ponte Vasco da Gama (17km long!). After 1.1km reach the Trancão tributary and turn left, following the tributary under the IC2 and railway tracks (Sacavém station is on the LHS) to reach the N10 in Sacavém. The slightly hidden petrol station (LHS) sells water and there is a café diagonally left behind the park. 5.2km/12.7km
Turn right and cross the bridge, turning left immediately onto a dirt path and down to the river past a Toyota dealership (RHS). Shortly after, turn left onto a paved road, following as it bends right, then left and under a green pipe. Go under the A1 and follow the dirt road then path beside the tributary for 2.7km until the path veers right, away from the river and becomes a dirt road. After a further 2.6km pass the ruins of the large Quinta do Monteiro Mor (RHS, 17th century, with obscene graffiti). 6.2km/18.9km
Veer right here, then in 1.2km pass the dilapidated red Quinta do Brasileiro (RHS, with tower) and pass a small bridge (don’t cross it unless you’re going to the café in Granja +130m). Join a paved road passing factories then KSO across the roundabout and for a further 850m into Largo de Alpriate, ending the stage at the blue-and-white painted Albergue de Peregrinos (RHS) in Alpriate. 2.9km/21.8km
ALPRIATE, 38M
A peaceful hamlet with two cafés and a welcoming albergue run by Via Lusitana volunteers.
Where to eat: Café Grillus +50m, turn right after the albergue. Café Nadia +280m, opposite the soccer field.
Accommodation: Albergue de Peregrinos (Largo de Alpriate 13, tel 915 595 213, www.alpriate.vialusitana.org, 12 beds, kitchen, €8).
STAGE 2
Alpriate to Vila Franca de Xira
| Start | Albergue de Peregrinos, Alpriate |
| Finish | Vila Franca de Xira train station |
| Distance | 19km |
| Total ascent | 118m |
| Total descent | 140m |
| Difficulty | Easy |
| Time | 5hr |
| Cafés | Alpriate, Póvoa de Santa Iria (3.8km), Praia dos Pescadores (5.2km), Alverca (9.4km), Alhandra (15km), Vila Franca de Xira (19km) |
| Accommodation | Alpriate, Vila Franca de Xira (19km) |
| Notes | The route passes Alverca, Alhandra and Vila Franca de Xira train stations, providing options for alternative stages. |
This stage follows quiet back roads, dirt paths, peaceful boardwalks through wetlands and a short section along the N10 highway before joining a delightful riverside path for the approach to Vila Franca de Xira.
Leaving the albergue, follow the arrows in front of the yellow house then turn right onto Rua da Vinha. After 850m take the right fork onto a farm track and follow this to a paved road then turn right. Just before the tunnel, turn left onto a dirt track. KSO to reach a road (with a car yard in front) and turn right then go under the A1. Continue for 1km to a large roundabout (with a fountain) on the edge of Póvoa de Santa Iria. 3.8km
Joining the boardwalk in the Tagus Estuary Riverside Park
Take the diagonal right onto the N10 and pass Café Estrela do Tejo (RHS) then take the next left, crossing a bridge over the railway tracks. KSO across a road onto a dirt path, turning left to cross a wooden bridge then passing abandoned buildings. Follow the footpath as it bends right into Praia dos Pescadores (1.4km). This is the beginning of the Tagus Estuary Riverside Park, with a café, picnic area, information boards and boardwalks. Join a boardwalk with the Tagus on the RHS. After passing a bird hide (RHS) cross the bridge, now walking along a path with a canal on the LHS. Cross two more bridges before joining a dirt road parallel to the railway tracks. Go through an underpass and KSO to reach Alverca train station opposite the Museu do Ar (Air Museum, open Mondays). 5.6km/9.4km
Cross over the tracks through the station (café and ATM inside) and KSO onto Av Infante Dom Pedro, passing more cafés before turning right at an apartment block, then immediately left onto Rua 20 de Maio passing a small fountain. Turn right at the end, then left at the end onto a dirt path behind a school. Shortly after this, turn right to cross the canal and pass behind Alverca Futebol Clube, then continue onto a farm track. At a T-junction, turn right onto a dirt road then left onto a paved road at the beginning of an industrial area. After 650m turn left at a T-junction then KSO to a roundabout, turning right onto the N10. 2.7km/12.1km
Carefully follow the N10 for 2.3km, passing a Pingo Doce supermarket and under two industrial chutes, then as the road begins to climb, turn right and cross a bridge over the railway tracks towards the cement works. Alhandra train station is on the RHS. Turn right at the end of the road towards the ‘B.V.’ initials then left at the end onto Av Batista Pereira, passing Restaurant Voltar Ao Cais in Alhandra. For cafés and services take the second left on Av Sousa Martins. 2.9km/15km
Continue along the river esplanade then join the red ‘Ribeirinho’ path with benches, drinking fonts and colourful artwork. After 3.1km pass the Praça de Touros Palha Blanco bullring – across the tracks; built in 1901 and named after its founder – and shortly afterwards pass Vila Franca de Xira’s uber-modern municipal library. Continue into Jardim Municipal Constantino Palha until you reach the steps of Vila Franca de Xira station (cross the tracks for all services). 4km/19km
Bullfighting monument, Vila Franca de Xira
VILA FRANCA DE XIRA, 11M, POP. 122,908
Known throughout Portugal for horse and bull breeding as well as bullfighting, Vila Franca de Xira is a pleasant town with excellent facilities. The two annual celebrations (July and Sep/Oct) include the running of the bulls through the streets.
Tourist office: Rua Alves Redol 7, tel 263 285 605, www.cm-vfxira.pt, closed Sundays.
Visit: Mercado Municipal (1929), a market with beautiful azulejo (tile) facade, closed Sundays. Train station (1856) – azulejos line the inside of the station and platforms.
Specialities: Shad river fish, Leziria and Garraios sweet pastries.
Where to eat: Churrasqueira A Canoa for delicious BBQ, a one-minute walk from the town hall. Restaurante O Retiro (slightly further) for traditional meals. Pastelaria Franca Leziria near the station for all things sweet.
Accommodation: Guesthouse Vilatejo, formerly ‘Pensão Ribatejana’ (Rua da Praia 2A, tel 263 272 991, shared & private rooms, €15+, next to the station). Residencial Flora (Rua Noel Perdigão 6, tel 263 271 272, 22 rooms, €33+, has a luggage transport service). Hospedaria Maioral (Travessa do Terreirinho 2, tel 263 274 370, 10 rooms, €30+, next to the tourist office).
STAGE 3
Vila Franca de Xira to Azambuja
| Start | Vila Franca de Xira train station |
| Finish | Praça do Município, Azambuja |
| Distance | 19.5km |
| Total ascent | 80m |
| Total descent | 75m |
| Difficulty | Easy |
| Time | 5hr |
| Cafés | Vila Franca de Xira, Castenheira do Ribatejo station (4.5km) Carregado (7.3km), Vila Nova da Rainha (12km), Azambuja (19.5km) |
| Accommodation | Vila Franca de Xira, Azambuja (19.5km) |
| Note | The Camino has been re-routed off the highway in many places; make sure to follow the new arrows. |
This relatively short stage follows small busy roads, quiet dirt roads parallel to railway tracks, a short section along the N3, and passes no fewer than five train stations. Look out for wildflowers in season.
From the station steps, continue to the end of the municipal gardens, turning right then left onto a minor road. Go under the N10, then after 750m pass the turnoff for the Sim Tejo factory (RHS) and take the second right onto a dirt road bringing you parallel to the railway tracks. After 1.1km veer right then left around the electric sub-station, continuing parallel to the tracks along dirt then paved roads and passing Castenheira do Ribatejo station (café inside). 4.5km
After 1.6km go straight across a roundabout then at the T-junction turn left, then left at the multi-coloured wall and go up and over the tracks at Carregado station (2.8km). Exiting the station (cafés left and right), turn right, then turn left at the end and follow a canal for 850m before turning right to cross a bridge over the canal. Carefully follow the road for 3.4km (passing the Carregado Thermoelectric Power Plant, going under the A10 and past the Fátima 100km marker) to reach the N3 in Vila Nova da Rainha. 7.3/11.8km
Turn right onto the N3, pass the popular truck-stop Restaurant O Velhote (RHS) then turn right at traffic lights, following the ‘Apeadeiro’ sign to Vila Nova da Rainha station. Cross the tracks and turn left onto a dirt road through the gate (going around it if it’s locked) and KSO. After 2.8km pass Espadanal da Azambuja station, then after a further 2.7km (having passed a water treatment plant and before the next underpass) turn left onto a paved path and go under the railway tracks. On reaching the N3, turn right and pass a petrol station with Ouro Hotel behind then turn left at the roundabout. Turn right at the next roundabout onto Av do Valverde, passing the bullring, then KSO onto Rua Eng Moniz da Maia, passing the library and tourist office before arriving at Praça do Município (LHS) in Azambuja. 7.7km/19.5km
Praça do Município, Azambuja
AZAMBUJA, 17M, POP. 20,837
Officially settled in the 13th century, the compact town of Azambuja has a small albergue and also celebrates the running of the bulls during its annual May Fair.
Tourist office: Rua Eng Moniz da Maia 29, tel 263 400 476, www.cm-azambuja.pt, closed weekends.
Visit: Azambuja Municipal Museum, Av do Valverde, www.cm-azambuja.pt, closed Mon–Tues. Igreja Matriz: 16th-century church with 17th-century azulejos (tiles) lining the inside walls and a Baroque altarpiece.
Specialities: Stewed or fried eel (enguias); delicious queijadinhas (almond/lemon tart) from Favorita.
Where to eat: Favorita, opposite the tourist office (closed Mondays). Restaurant Flor de Sal in Atrium Azambuja.
Accommodation: Albergue de Peregrinos (Rua Espírito Santo 1, tel 914 103 807 (no reservations), 12 beds, kitchen, €5 minimum donation, open 3pm. Access: continue along Rua Eng Moniz da Maia for 200m then turn left into Largo de Palmela. Go up the stairs and turn right – the albergue (no.1) is on the RHS). Ouro Hotel (Antigo Campo da Feira, tel 263 406 530, www.ourohotel.net, 37 rooms, €35+, behind the Ouro Negro petrol station). Residencial Flor da Primavera (Rua Conselheiro Frederico Arouca 19, tel 263 402 545, www.flordaprimavera.pt, 8 rooms, €25+, on the Camino).
STAGE 4
Azambuja to Santarém
| Start | Praça do Município, Azambuja |
| Finish | Largo Cândido dos Reis, Santarém |
| Distance | 32.5km |
| Total ascent | 212m |
| Total descent | 118m |
| Difficulty | Medium |
| Time | 8hr |
| Cafés | Azambuja, Reguengo (10.6km), Valada (13km), Porto de Muge (17.3km), Santarém (32km) |
| Accommodation | Azambuja, Valada (13km), Porto de Muge (17.9km), Santarém (32.5km) |
| Note | There are limited services on this stage. |
This longer stage is mostly along quiet farm tracks (watch out for trucks during harvest time) through Ribatejo’s agricultural heartland. Depending on the season, you may see tomatoes, melons, barley, wheat, corn or grapevines. While mostly flat, it finishes on top of a hill in Santarém.
