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CENTRAL CAMINO

Cloister in Convento de São Francisco, Santaróm (Central Camino Stage 4)

LISBON, 2M, POP. 547,733

Europe’s westernmost capital, Lisbon is a hilly cosmopolitan city by the River Tagus with deep historical roots. Known as ‘Olisipo’ to the Phoenicians, it was designated a municipium under Julius Caesar, called Felicitas Julia. In 1147 Afonso Henriques ‘recaptured’ Lisbon from the Moors, and it became the capital from 1255. The city was extensively destroyed on All Saints Day in 1755 by a devastating earthquake (and subsequent fires and tsunami) and rebuilt by the Marquês de Pombal; the Convento do Carmo serves as a haunting reminder.

A ship with two ravens adorns lamp posts, street tiles and Lisbon’s coat of arms; it’s believed to be from the 12th century when the remains of Lisbon’s Patron Saint, St Vincent were brought from the Algarve by ship, followed by two ravens. Lisbon actually has two Patron Saints, St Vincent and the more popularly known St Anthony.

No trip to Lisbon would be complete without visiting the picturesque suburb of Belém, where the caravels set sail on their voyages around the world. Some 8km west of Lisbon’s Praça do Comércio, it is home to the UNESCO World Heritage Mosteiro dos Jerónimos and Torre de Belém. It’s also the location of the MAAT Museum, Pastéis de Belém (custard tarts) and much more.

Tourist office: Praça do Comércio, tel 210 312 810, and Palácio Foz-Praça dos Restauradores, tel 213 463 314. Both open daily 9am–8pm, www.visitlisboa.com.

View of Castelo de São Jorge from Miradouro de São Pedro de Alcântar

Visit Lisbon: cathedral (Sé de Lisboa, NM), built after Afonso Henriques captured Lisbon; the first bishop was the English crusader, Gilbert of Hastings. Successive kings added to the cathedral, contributing to its Romanesque, Gothic and Baroque styles. Archaeological excavations in the Gothic cloister have uncovered Iron Age remains dating back to the eighth century BC, as well as Roman streets and Moorish foundations. Open daily, Mass held Tues–Sat 6.30pm, Sunday 11.30am. Winding up the hill from the cathedral is the church of Igreja de Santiago; originally 12th century, it was largely rebuilt after the earthquake. Castelo de São Jorge (NM), a Moorish castle then royal palace dating from the 13th to 19th centuries; the site includes a museum, archaeological finds dating from the seventh century BC, a restaurant and terrific views – www.castelodesaojorge.pt, open daily, €8.50. Elevador de Santa Justa (NM, 1902), a Neo-Gothic iron elevator designed by an apprentice of Eiffel; open daily, €5. Praça do Comércio (NM) was rebuilt by Pombal after the earthquake; the large riverfront square was known as Terreiro do Paço and housed the Royal River Palace (moved from the castle by King Manuel in 1511). The equestrian statue in the middle of the square is King José I and the triumphant Arco da Rua Augusta (completed in 1875) includes statues of Pombal and Vasco da Gama, among others. There’s also a tourist office, Lisboa Story Centre (interactive museum recounting Lisbon’s history – www.lisboastorycentre.pt, €7), Lisbon’s oldest café ‘Martinho da Arcada’ (1778) and ViniPortugal wine-tasting rooms (www.viniportugal.pt) in the square. Convento do Carmo (NM) was built by Nuno Álvares Pereira in the 14th century; the Carmelite Convent was all but destroyed in the earthquake, and it now houses an archaeological museum (www.museuarqueologicodocarmo.pt). Miradouro de São Pedro de Alcântara, castle and city viewpoint. Igreja de São Roque, dating from the 16th century, is a lesson in not judging a book by its cover: the inside dazzles and it has to be seen to be believed. Fado, a style of folk-music meaning ‘fate,’ involves women dressed in black singing melancholic themes of saudade – longing and heartbreak – accompanied by a Portuguese guitar. It’s a great night out and there are often some upbeat songs thrown into the mix. Casa de Linhares (www.casadelinhares.com) and Clube de Fado (www.clube-de-fado.com) are two well-known Fado restaurants in Alfama. Follow Your Destination have ‘free’ (tip-based) walking tours and a variety of other interesting tours: www.followyourdestination.com.

Visit Belém: from Lisbon’s Praça do Comércio, take the number 15 tram (€2.90, about 35 minutes) or bus 714 (€1.85, about 30 minutes).

Torre de Belém

Mosteiro dos Jerónimos (NM), an awe-inspiring and beautiful monastery, was begun in 1501 under King Manuel I (on top of an existing Order of Christ church) to house the Order of St Jerome and provide spiritual support for seafarers before they set sail. It oozes the King’s maritime ‘Manueline’ style in addition to late Gothic and Renaissance styles. Among the many tombs is Vasco da Gama’s opposite the poet Luís de Camões. Allow a few hours at least: www.mosteirojeronimos.gov.pt, closed Mondays, entrance €10 (the church alone is free), or €12 for a combined ticket including Torre de Belém. The torre (tower, NM) – built as a fortress in the Tagus and commemorating Vasco da Gama’s advantageous voyage – was completed in 1520 and drips in Manueline style with twisted ropes, knots, armillary spheres and the cross of the Order of Christ: www.torrebelem.gov.pt, closed Mondays, entrance €6. Pastéis de Belém are the best custard tarts (in the world) and use a secret Jerónimos Monastery recipe. Even if you have to queue, it’s worth it! Rua de Belém 84–92, www.pasteisdebelem.pt. MAAT is the Museum of Art, Architecture & Technology: www.maat.pt.

Specialities:bacalhau (cod) has been a staple of the Portuguese diet since at least the Age of Discoveries. It was originally fished in Newfoundland, then salted and dried to preserve it for the long sea journeys. Today it is still salted and dried but mostly imported from Norway. One of the many (supposedly 365) ways to cook it is as croquettes called pastel de bacalhau. Ginjinha is cherry brandy; try it at the original small tavern on Largo de São Domingos, with or without cherries. O Melhor do Mundo Bolo de Chocolate, ‘the world’s best chocolate cake’, is sold in slices from a green kiosk of the same name on Av da Liberdade just before Rua das Pretas. If you can’t get to Pastéis de Belém, try the second-best custard tarts at Manteigaria opposite Praça Luís Camões, near Baixa-Chiado metro.

Where to eat: try Time Out Market in Cais do Sodre or Casa da India near Praça Luís de Camões for traditional Portuguese food. At Cervejaria Trindade you can eat in a beer hall in a former 13th-century monastery surrounded by azulejos (tiles); touristy but worth it!

Accommodation: Largo da Se Guest House (Calçada do Correio Velho 3, tel 218 861 393, www.largodase-guesthouse.com, 7 rooms, opposite the cathedral). Lisbon Destination Hostel (Rossio Train Station, second floor, tel 213 466 457, www.followyourdestination.com, shared and private rooms). Lisbon Story Guesthouse (Largo de São Domingos 18, tel 218 879 392, www.lisbonstoryguesthouse.com, 11 rooms, next to Praça Rossio). Artbeat Rooms (Rua de São Nicolau 23, tel 960 375 698, www.artbeatrooms.com, 7 rooms, central Baixa location).

Lisbon Cathedral and the start of the Camino