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ОглавлениеBasic Tools and Utensils
Wok or Skillet
The wok was invented in China over a thousand years ago. It is central to Chinese cooking and other Asian cuisines because of its unique concave shape and ability to heat up quickly. And let’s face it, a billion Chinese people can’t be wrong. The wok is incredibly versatile, used for everything from stir-frying and deep-frying to steaming and braising. My mom even fried hamburgers and popped popcorn in her wok when we were little!
The most common types of wok are cast iron and carbon steel. I recommend carbon steel because it heats up quickly and retains heat well. The most user-friendly size is 14 inches (29 cm). Larger woks can become unwieldy. Look for a wok with sturdy handles and a lid. I use both a cast-iron wok and a carbon-steel wok in my kitchen. Some wok purists turn their nose up at nonstick woks, but I say go with whatever works for you. If you’re going to use nonstick, I recommend a premium brand like Calphalon, Circulon or All-Clad. Carbon-steel and cast-iron woks need to be seasoned. See page 18 for instructions on how to season your wok.
A flat-bottomed wok is the best shape for an American stovetop. If you have a powerful range, like Viking or Wolf, then you can get away with a round bottomed wok with a stand, as these stoves produce enough heat to thoroughly heat a round bottom.
I have friends who suffer from wok anxiety. They just don’t feel comfortable using one, or the one they have is lost somewhere in the attic. If you can relate, you are not alone. Rest assured that you can make everything in this book in a frying pan or skillet, as modern stoves deliver high enough heat levels to achieve the even distribution required for Chinese cooking. Just make sure you use a skillet with high enough edges, or else the ingredients will fly out of your pan. When deep-frying, make sure to use a deep skillet (see pages 19–20 for more information). I like to use a nonstick skillet, because less oil is needed and meat won’t stick as much. Look for nonstick pans which are PFOA-, lead- and cadmium-free. I prefer ceramic nonstick pans. Just make sure to use a spatula that’s safe for nonstick surfaces to avoid scratching the pan.
For deep-frying and steaming, I like to use an electric wok that I can place in a separate area of my kitchen. This provides extra space if I’m also stir-frying or braising a separate dish on my stovetop.
Knives
Chinese food is all about the prep, as everything generally cooks quickly—especially stir-fry dishes. Preparation involves lots of mincing, chopping and dicing, so invest in quality knives and keep them sharp. A standard 8-inch (20-cm) chef’s knife should do the trick, along with some good paring knives.
My mother always used a Chinese cleaver, and you may want to consider picking one up in Chinatown or online. Like woks, Chinese cleavers are extremely versatile. You can chop, dice, shred, slice and even hack chicken bones to pieces. Plus, you’ll look pretty fierce wielding one! Make sure to purchase a cleaver that fits comfortably in your hand and isn’t too heavy for you to handle.
Rice Cooker
If there’s one thing you should invest in when it comes to Chinese cooking, it’s a rice cooker. Who doesn’t need a device that can do the thinking for you? A rice cooker has an internal temperature sensor that can sense when all the water has been absorbed by the rice or grains in the pot. It then miraculously switches to a setting that keeps the rice warm, so you don’t have to do a thing and you don’t have to worry about your rice burning. This is especially great when you’re entertaining and trying to juggle a few recipes at once.
There are several models available, ranging in price from $10 to more than $500. The higher-priced models have fuzzy-logic technology, which means they contain a computer chip that can calibrate the temperature and water quantity for a superior end product. I recommend Zojirushi and Cuisinart fuzzy-logic rice cookers.
For the recipes in this book, you can use any type of rice cooker. I have to say that fuzzy-logic models produce perfect fluffy rice every time (although the run-of-the-mill budget-priced rice cooker that I grew up with served our family just fine).
Clay Pot
A clay pot is another versatile tool to have in the Chinese kitchen. You can roast and braise with it and make soups and stews in it. Clay pots are most often used for braising and stewing in Chinese cooking because they retain heat so well.
Clay is a porous material which, when soaked in water and heated in the oven, provides slow evaporation of steam from the pores. This moist cooking environment results in incredibly flavorful and tender meats. It’s super healthy, too, because you’re not cooking with a lot of oil. Another wonderful thing about a clay pot is that it can go straight from oven to table. Not only is it a terrific cooking vessel, it’s a unique and tasteful serving piece. I guarantee at least one “Ahhh” and maybe one “Ooh!” when you set it on the table at your next dinner party. You can find clay pots at Asian markets or online. Clay pots should simply be washed with hot water. The use of soap isn’t recommended.
Bamboo Steamers
I stock up on all different sizes of bamboo steamers because I steam so many different things in them, from dumplings to whole fish, and because they’re so pretty and fun to use when I entertain. (I guess you could call me a “basket” case.) For everyday cooking, one large bamboo steamer with a lid should be adequate. If you like to entertain, buy a stackable set, which usually comes with three baskets. Make sure your basket fits properly in your wok or pan; the pan should be about 3 inches (7.5 cm) wider than the basket. Always make certain you have enough boiling water in the pan, and be sure that the basket sits about 2 inches (5 cm) above the water. Cover tightly with the lid before steaming.
Strainer or Slotted Spoon
I recommend a traditional Chinese-style strainer with a long bamboo handle (often called a “spider”). I’m not sure why, but this utensil sometimes makes me feel like a superhero, especially when I’m trying to fry egg rolls for a hundred guests. It’s made out of wire mesh and is great for removing deep-fried foods from oil as well as removing blanched foods from boiling water. You can find this type of strainer at an Asian market or specialty gourmet store. I find it to be an indispensable tool in my kitchen. You can also use a wide, Western-style slotted spoon in place of a Chinese-style strainer, but don’t use it for deep-frying if it’s made of plastic.
Spatula
Everything moves really fast when you’re stir-frying, and you need a proper spatula for even cooking. As mentioned previously, stir-frying is more about tossing and flipping than it is about stirring, so you want a sturdy tool to get the job done.
When using a wok, I recommend using a Chinese steel spatula, a wooden spatula or a heavy-duty plastic spatula.
If you’re using a nonstick skillet, make sure to use a wooden or nonstick-safe plastic spatula, or else you’ll scratch the skillet. If you’re making multiple stir-fry dishes, plan ahead so you have a spatula at the ready for each dish.
Food Processor
I get by with a little help from my friends… but lately, my food processor has become my BFF and my cleaver is getting jealous! Because I’m always trying to squeeze as much as possible into the day, I look for things to make life easier. Food processors can blend salad dressings, mince ginger, finely chop and grate vegetables, blend dumpling filling, and on and on. Go for a standard model and get the attachment blades so you can grate, shred and do other nifty stuff. Here’s a fantastic time-saving tip my mom gave me for using a food processor for minced ginger: Peel about 1 lb (500 g) of fresh ginger and cut into medium pieces, then finely mince it in a food processor. Put the minced ginger in a resealable plastic storage bag and flatten it, then place it in the freezer. Once frozen, just break off what you need for your recipe!