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Understanding Chinese Ingredients

When my mother Leeann immigrated to Minnesota in 1956, she couldn’t find bok choy or oyster sauce, let alone fresh ginger, at the grocery store. She improvised and still managed to make incredibly delicious Chinese dishes for us (I am still baffled by this and her other magician-like powers in the kitchen). Today, much has changed: it’s not uncommon to find black bean sauce, Asian eggplant and cellophane noodles at the regular grocery store, or daikon radish and Chinese long beans at your local farmer’s market. The majority of the ingredients needed for the recipes in this book can be found at your neighborhood market, with some recipes requiring an occasional trip to an Asian store or some on-line shopping. In this section, I’ve compiled the key ingredients used in Chinese cooking. Over time, you’ll discover the ingredients you’ll want to keep on hand to make your favorite Chinese dishes.

Baby Corn These miniature ears of corn are often used in stir-fries. Harvesting the grain early, while the ears are immature, allows for the whole cob to be consumed. Baby corn comes canned and ready to cook. Best known for its cameo in the movie Big, it adds a unique texture to any stir-fry dish.

Bamboo Shoots There are the part of the bamboo plant that is harvested before it matures. Available fresh, canned or bottled, bamboo shoots are found in Asian markets and many grocery stores. Any unused bamboo shoots should be stored in water and kept in the refrigerator. Change water daily to preserve freshness.

Black Beans, Fermented These fermented, salted black soybeans have a distinctive pungent aroma, and add a very rich flavor when combined with garlic, ginger and other flavors. They come packed in plastic bags, or are made into a sauce and sold in a jar. If purchased in plastic bags, they should be rinsed in warm water before using to remove excess salt, and refrigerated after opening.

Black Mushrooms, Dried These are incredibly versatile, adding an amazingly rich flavor to stir-fries, soups and noodle dishes. They must be presoaked in warm water before using. When soaked, they plump up and have a delicious meaty taste and texture. If you can’t find dried black mushrooms, dried shiitake mushrooms can be substituted.

Bok Choy A crisp vegetable shaped rather like a celery plant, bok choy has whitish stalks and deep-green leaves. The smaller the head of bok choy, the more tender it will be. Baby bok choy, the smallest kind, is the most expensive. Bok choy is available in most supermarkets. Shanghai Bok Choy, which can be found in many Asian markets, is dark green in color and slightly bitter, and is highly prized. Bok choy is very nutrient-dense—so you can enjoy this tasty vegetable and load up on folic acid and vita-mins A and C while you’re at it.

Brown Bean Paste It is the ground version of brown beans used in sauces; it is used throughout northern China. A thick, salty and rich cousin of black bean sauce, it can be purchased in a jar and stored indefinitely. A little of this savory paste goes a long way, so use it sparingly. You can find brown bean paste at Asian markets and online resources.

Chilies, Dried Red These dried red peppers are usually very hot. They are an essential ingredient in many Sichuan dishes, and can be used to season oil. Used whole, they impart a lovely chili flavor without the heat. Chiles de árbol can be substituted if you can’t find dried Chinese chilies.

Chili Garlic Sauce It is the perfect combination of zesty chilies and fragrant garlic. It’s very versatile, and can be used for marinating, as a dipping sauce and for whenever you want to add a kick in the pants to a stir-fry dish. I prefer the Lee Kum Kee brand. Sambal Oelek is an acceptable substitute.

Chili Paste Also known as chili bean sauce, is made from crushed fresh red chilies, soybeans, salt and garlic. It varies from being hot to very hot. Sold in jars, it is rich, spicy and earthy; it is used both as a condiment and as a seasoning for sauces and stir-fries.

Chinese Black Vinegar Often labeled as “Chinkiang vinegar,” is made from fermented rice, wheat, barley or sorghum. It is a tart and smoky dark vinegar that is used as a dipping sauce and in cooking.

Chinese Broccoli (Gailan/Kalian) This leafy vegetable, also known as Chinese kale, has thick, flat glossy leaves and thick stems. Sweet and slightly bitter, Chinese Broccoli is a versatile vegetable that’s a great addition to many stir-fry dishes and a delicious side dish drizzled with oyster sauce. Chinese broccoli is a nutrient-dense food, and is an excellent source of folic acid, vitamin A, vitamin C and vitamin K.

Chinese Long Beans Also known as yard-long beans, Chinese long beans really can grow that long! To be used as a vegetable, though, the bean pods are picked before they reach maturity. Chinese long beans can be found coiled or tied into bunches at Asian markets and some grocery stores. They are typically blanched and then stir-fried.

Chinese Chives Also known as garlic chives, are earthy yet delicate. They are similar to Western chives, but are wider and more pungent. The less-common Chinese yellow chives are more delicate in flavor and taste more like an onion than a chive. The yellow variety is grown in the dark and deprived of sunlight, so the leaves are stripped of their green color.

Cloud Ears Also known as Chinese tree fungus, cloud ears come dried and should be soaked in warm water for 20 minutes before using; any hard portions should be trimmed and discarded. After soaking, they swell up to look like little clouds. Cloud ears have a mild smoky flavor.

Fish Sauce Though it’s best known as an ingredient in Southeast Asian cooking, fish sauce is not uncommon in Chinese cuisine. It is called “fish mist” in China, and is used by the Chiu Chow people in southern China. Made from fermented anchovies, fish sauce has a distinct fishy, briny aroma that dissipates upon cooking, lending a unique salty flavor to dishes.

Five-Spice Powder As the name suggests, this is a combination of five ground spices: star anise, Sichuan pepper, fennel, cloves and cinnamon. Pungent, complex and spicy with a hint of sweetness, five-spice powder can be found in Asian markets and some grocery stores.

Hoisin Sauce Hoisin sauce is traditionally made from red rice brewed with soybean paste, garlic, sugar, star anise, chili paste and other spices. It ranges in color from reddish brown to mahogany. It is an excellent marinade, glaze and dipping sauce. It has a very strong taste that can overpower other ingredients, however, so it should be added a little at a time until the desired flavor and heat is reached. Hoisin sauce is widely available at grocery stores and Asian markets. You can also make it from scratch; see the recipe on page 25.

Lotus Root This oblong beige vegetable is actually the root of the lotus flower. It contains a surprising system of baffles and chambers that, when the root is sliced, make a charming pattern of holes. Lotus root adds crunch in salads, soups and braised dishes; it can also be eaten raw or briefly stir-fried. It should be peeled and sliced before using. Lotus root can be bought at Asian grocery stores.

Lychees Mildly sweet in flavor with a floral smell, lychees are available fresh or canned. Fresh lychees, which consist of a berry-like fruit encased in a brown and pink shell, are becoming more common in Asian markets. The canned variety is widely available.

Plum Sauce At once both sweet and sour, plum sauce is used as a dipping sauce for spring rolls and other deep-fried dishes, as well as on barbecued meats. It is made from plums, sugar, vinegar, salt, ginger and chili peppers.

Chinese Rice Wine It lends an unmistakable flavor and fragrance to a variety of Chinese dishes, from dumplings and stir-fries to clay-pot dishes and marinades. Fragrant, amber-colored and slightly nutty, Chinese rice wine (also called Shaoxing wine) is made from fermented rice and yeast. It’s a staple in my pantry, and I find it indispensable. If you can’t find Chinese rice wine, then dry cooking sherry is fine as a substitute.

Sichuan Peppercorns These tiny crimson pods, integral to many Sichuan dishes, create a unique tingling sensation in the mouth. More lemony and exotic than spicy, Sichuan peppercorns are paired with chilies to achieve mala flavor, a key characteristic of Sichuan cooking.

Sesame Oil, Toasted or Dark Toasted sesame oil is made from toasted sesame seeds. It is used as a seasoning to enhance many Chinese dishes with its signature nutty sesame flavor. Only a few drops are needed to season a dish or enhance a marinade. Sesame oil can turn rancid pretty quickly, so it should be stored away from heat and light.

Soy Sauce It comes in three grades: light, medium and dark. Lighter kinds of soy sauce are commonly used for dipping, while dark soy sauce, also known as black soy sauce, tends to be used in cooking. Dark soy sauce is aged longer, making it slightly sweeter and thicker. Molasses or caramel may be added to deepen its color and thicken its consistency. Heating dark soy sauce releases its full, rich flavor in sauces and gravies; it is also used in stir-fries and noodle dishes.

Star Anise It is the seedpod of a small tree found throughout Asia. The star-shaped spice has a warm, rich and pungent aroma of licorice, cinnamon and clove. The actual seeds inside the pod are tiny and black, and have no flavor. Used whole, star anise adds a subtle aroma; or it may be ground for maximum flavor. It is a popular ingredient in soups, curries, sweets and teas. A substitute for star anise is a blend of ground cloves and cinnamon.

Straw Mushrooms These are so named because they are cultivated on beds of straw. They are actually shaped like little helmets, and have a delicate, sweet flavor. They are the most widely used mushroom in traditional Chinese cooking, and are added to soups, curries, stir-fries, and more. Fresh straw mushrooms can be hard to find in the United States, but the canned variety should be available at most Asian markets.

Water Chestnuts These are a vegetable that grows in Asian marshes. They have a delicate flavor, and add a nice crunchy texture to stir-fries and soups. Water chestnuts are available canned or fresh. An interesting alternative to water chestnuts is peeled jicama root.

Noodles Chinese cooking uses many types of noodles, from egg noodles and rice stick noodles to flat rice noodles and bean-thread noodles.

Egg Noodles are so versatile; they can be bought dried and kept on hand for a chow mein dish or a quick Chinese noodle soup. My mother’s homemade egg noodles were the best—her recipe, made with only eggs and flour, is on page 140. Rice Stick Noodles, a.k.a. rice vermicelli, are skinny dried noodles made from rice flour and water. Rice sticks can be used in soups and salads. To prepare, place rice sticks in a large bowl. Add hot water to cover. Let stand until softened, about 10 minutes. Drain and rinse with cool water. When deep-fried, they puff up to ten times their size! Flat Rice Noodles can be bought dried or fresh. They are also made of rice flour and water, and are thick and chewy—they’re the signature noodle used in Chow Fun dishes. Fresh flat rice noodles are white, with a shiny oil coating. When buying fresh flat rice noodles for the recipes in this book, make sure they’re pre-cut. Bean-Thread Noodles, a.k.a. cellophane noodles, are made from mung beans that have been mashed and strained, then formed into very thin white noodles. Bean-thread noodles need to be soaked in hot water for 10 minutes before using; they will turn clear with cellophane-like appearance. They are gluten-free.

Egg Noodles

Bean-Thread Noodles

Flat Rice Noodles

Wrappers Chinese people love to wrap their food! From wontons to dumplings, everything tastes better wrapped up and steamed or fried. Most Chinese-style wrappers are made from flour and water, and are differentiated mainly by their shape, thickness and size. I like to keep all types of wrappers on hand in my freezer because they’re so versatile and handy for last-minute entertaining.

Wonton Wrappers are thin and square. Many people use them to make ravioli (who knew?). Potsticker Wrappers (a.k.a. Dumpling Wrappers or Gyoza Wrappers) are similar to wonton wrappers, but are round. When making potstickers or other dumplings, you can cut wonton wrappers into a round shape with a cookie cutter. Egg Roll Wrappers are like wonton wrappers, but larger. They come in 9-in (23-cm) squares. Spring Roll Wrappers are used to make spring rolls, which have a crispier, more delicate texture than egg rolls. They are white and don’t contain eggs. They are usually sold in the freezer section at Asian markets. Before using, you should separate the sheets by pulling them apart once they’ve thawed. Spring roll wrappers are used for other appetizers, too, like Firecracker Shrimp (page 43). Rice Paper Wrappers are made from a dough of rice flour and water, which is spread into thin sheets and sun dried. They must be briefly dipped in warm water before using. They’re used for roll-ups, like chilled spring rolls.

Wonton Wrappers

Potsticker Wrappers

Rice Paper Wrappers