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PART I

THONBURI

These three walks will take us through Thonburi, which was briefly the capital before Bangkok was founded. We explore the southern bank of the Bangkok Yai canal, walking alongside the old coastal railway line to the former betel nut market and visiting landmarks known to Thonburi’s only monarch, King Taksin. Our second walk takes us through the old harbour district to neighbourhoods settled by the Portuguese, Hokkien Chinese and Cham Muslims, ending at a Lao community of bamboo flute makers. The third of the walks leads us through what was the fortified part of the city, taking in famous landmarks such as the Temple of the Dawn and Wat Rakhang, before visiting a small community founded by bronzesmiths who had fled the destruction of Ayutthaya, with our journey ending at a macabre museum.