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ОглавлениеCHAPTER 1: CHABLAIS ALPS
The Dents du Midi group, together with frontier mountains south of Lac Léman and to the west of the Rhône valley, in Canton Valais.
Lac d’Antème lies at the foot of the NW Face of the Dents du Midi, with a small, privately owned refuge nearby
CHABLAIS ALPS: CHAPTER SUMMARY
Location
In Canton Valais, south of Lac Léman (the Lake of Geneva) and west of the Rhône valley. The district’s southern boundary is drawn by the Emosson lakes on the French border, and by the Vallée du Trient which drains to the Rhône above Martigny.
Highlights
Walks
Tour des Dents Blanches (1:2)
Tour des Dents du Midi (1:2)
Tour du Ruan (1:5)
Tour de la Vallée du Trient (1:5)
Climbs
Via Ferrata de Tière (1:2)
Assorted routes on the Dents du Midi (1:2)
Traverse of the Sallière-Ruan Group (1:3)
NE Face of the Tour Sallière (1:5)
Summits for all
Haute Cime des Dents du Midi (1:2)
Le Luisin (1:5)
Contents
Abbé Clément: First Man on Top (box)
The Vieux Emosson Dinosaurs (box)
Tour de la Vallée du Trient (box)
Access, Bases, Maps and Guides
CHABLAIS ALPS: INTRODUCTION
The glaciers are small, only a few summits pass the 10,000ft mark, but the valleys are full of beauty.
R L G Irving, The Alps
As the plane circles to land at Geneva airport, the multi-pinnacled Dents du Midi appear at the far end of Lac Léman as alluring as the snowy Mont Blanc range beyond. These same peaks form a truly impressive backdrop to the castle of Chillon when viewed from the train running alongside the lake near Montreux, and are easily identifiable from several points at the western end of the Pennine Alps. Along with their neighbours in the Chablais region of Canton Valais, these are the most westerly mountains in Switzerland; a compact limestone group rising from green foothills to make a worthy introduction to the Swiss Alps.
Officially the Chablais region extends from St Gingolph, the little border town on the southern shore of Lac Léman, to St-Maurice north of Martigny in the Rhône valley, and includes all the mountains up to the French border. Of these, the Dents du Midi do not carry that border for they stand as an isolated block moated by valleys on three sides, unlike the Dents Blanches – the headwall of the Val d’Illiez – which make an attractive neighbour and a natural frontier spreading eastward to the handsome Mont Ruan. There the border turns abruptly to the south to enclose on the Swiss side the two Emosson lakes, from whose slopes tremendous views are granted of the Mont Blanc range to the south.
The small green lake at the Pas de Morgins
South of the smaller of these lakes, the border twists northeast, then southeast at the barrage of the larger Lac d’Emosson above Le Châtelard in the Trient valley, which effectively separates the Chablais Alps from outliers of the Mont Blanc massif. Here, however, we extend the region slightly to include all the Vallée du Trient, so that anything east of its bounding ridge can effectively be considered with the Pennine Alps in Chapter 2.
Straddling the Franco-Swiss border, a popular section of the Chablais region spreading out from Morgins is referred to in promotional literature as the Portes du Soleil, after a col on the ridge above Champéry, where a dozen resorts on both sides of the political divide are linked to exploit the skiing potential of the area and to promote both walking and mountain biking there.
But the whole region offers plenty of mountain walking opportunities, especially multi-day tours, some of which stray across the international frontier. Climbers are also well catered for, although there’s very little in the way of snow and ice except in winter. Rock routes abound in the lower-to-medium grades, and there are some exciting ridges to traverse. The main centres are Morgins in the valley of the same name, Champéry and Val d’Illiez in the valley from which the latter village takes its name, and Finhaut high above the Gorges du Trient.
1:1 Val de Morgins
Val de Morgins is pre-alpine; a broad, partly wooded pastoral valley whose upper reaches are linked to the Portes du Soleil ski playground. A short distance north of the valley’s only resort lies a small lake at the 1369m Pas de Morgins on the frontier, from where a road descends to Abondance in France.
Ignoring the French side of the border, the normal route of approach is from the small industrial town of Monthey in the Rhône valley, from where a sinuous road writhes its way southwestward through the lower Val d’Illiez, at first between vineyards, then among chestnut and walnut trees to a junction on the outskirts of Troistorrents. The left fork is the one to take for Champéry (see 1:2), while the Morgins branch climbs a series of hairpins with retrospective views of the Dents du Midi and the Dent de Morcles on the far side of the Rhône’s valley.
Having gained Val de Morgins the road then runs easily along the north bank of the Vièze de Morgins stream among alpine meadows and pinewoods, passing a minor road branching left (a pleasant cross-country route to Val d’Illiez) to gain the resort of Morgins at 1305m.
Spread across the meadows, the dark timber chalets, shops, campsite and two hotels (the Beau-Site and La Reine des Alpes) of this modest resort suggest a base for holidays of an undemanding nature. There are two chairlifts and two low-level skilifts, a climbing wall and some 800km of marked paths. In winter the extensive, but comparatively low ski area of Portes du Soleil that spreads across the border, gives access to 650km of pistes with 207 lifts (www.portesdusoleil.com), while cross-country skiing and snowshoe routes are also available, and at least 12km of footpaths are kept open. The Office du Tourisme (www.morgins.ch) located on Place du Carillon near the Foilleuse chairlift opposite the village church, produces a wealth of useful brochures and leaflets, although many of these refer to the French side of the border, and there’s a handy footpath map available at a scale of 1:33,333: Carte des Sentiers à Pied et à Cheval.
Walks from the Val de Morgins
Of the numerous walks in the valley, perhaps the easiest is that which takes just 20mins to reach the small green lake at the Pas de Morgins, where options for extending the outing in various directions become obvious. One of these options climbs to the Bec du Corbeau viewpoint; another makes for the Portes de Culet, then climbs the ridge to the east of the pass to gain the famed 2042m Pointe de Bellevue which gives such a splendid view of the Dents du Midi.
Another recommended route follows the Vièze de Morgins upstream southwest of Morgins, wandering below the cliffs of the Tête de Linga and Tête du Géant to the head of the valley, and then climbs to the little Lac de Chésery at 1891m. Lac Vert, a second tarn nearby, lies just 20m below Col de Chésery, a walker’s pass on the border with France at 1992m. Between the lake and the col, about 2½hrs from Morgins, stands the privately owned Refuge de Chésery (www.lacvert.ch) which offers refreshments, has 35 dormitory places and is often patronised by trekkers walking from Lac Léman to Chamonix along the GR5. Southeast of here the 2157m col of Portes de l’Hiver (also known as the Porte du Lac Vert) is well worth the extra 40–50mins of effort to reach, for it rewards with a truly breathtaking panorama. Yet again the Dents du Midi form an eye-catching part of that panorama.
For more spectacular views of the Dents du Midi, however, the ridge that runs from La Foilleuse at 1814m to the 1950m Col des Portes du Soleil, takes a lot of beating. The ridge may be gained by footpath or chairlift from Morgins, and less than 2hrs of easy walking is needed to get from one end to the other. Views from here are not only of the Dents du Midi, but of Mont Ruan and the wall of the Dents Blanches to the south which is also impressive, as is the skyline of the Mont Blanc range beyond and above intervening ridges. And it would be perfectly feasible for a keen walker to continue as far as the Portes de l’Hiver (see the previous paragraph) and descend to Morgins by reversing the route suggested above.
The major walking challenge of the district, however, is the multi-day Tour des Portes du Soleil which, as its name suggests, makes a circuit of the region, much of it in neighbouring France. It’s a longish tour demanding a total of about 44hrs of walking time on an assortment of trails, tracks and minor roads. Sadly there’s a considerable amount of downhill ski terrain to contend with, with the inevitable tows and lifts that clutter the landscape, but the route also enjoys some splendid semi-wild sections with glorious vistas. Accommodation is available in the form of gîtes, refuges and hotels, but such places are not evenly spaced, so some stages are much longer and more demanding than others. The route is highlighted on the carte des sentiers mentioned above, which also gives approximate timings and contact numbers for information. Being a circuit, the Tour could, of course be started almost anywhere, but since this sub-chapter deals with Val de Morgins, the suggestion is to begin in Morgins itself to make a counter-clockwise tour.
1:2 Val d’Illiez
With the Dents Blanches at its head, the rolling heights of the Portes du Soleil to the west, and the Dents du Midi forming its eastern wall, Val d’Illiez is by far and away the most important valley from which to explore the highest and most dramatic section of the Chablais Alps. Since Troistorrents has only limited accommodation, Champéry and Val d’Illiez are the major resort villages, with direct access by railway from Aigle and Monthey.
By road the initial approach is identical to that for Val de Morgins (1:1), but on reaching the junction on the outskirts of Troistorrents, about 4km above Monthey, we branch left and skirt the tall, grey stone church, passing the post office, a bank and a handful of shops. Within the village accommodation is limited to five beds at the Chambres d’Hôtes Helvetia.
A short distance beyond Troistorrents a minor road cuts back to the right to climb in long loops up the hillside on an alternative route to Morgins, while the Champéry road continues above the Vièze to Val d’Illiez (948m), once the valley’s main village. Larger than Troistorrents, Val d’Illiez has some old traditional chalets with projecting gables; there’s a tourist office by the railway station (www.valdilliez.ch), and a choice of accommodation at Hotel Communal which has 31 beds, and the slightly smaller Hotel du Repos with 27 beds. There are also just four b&b rooms (a total of seven beds) available at the Chambres d’Hôtes en Play.
About 4km further along the road lies Champéry (913m), a pleasantly situated and modestly attractive summer and winter resort which, as if to underline the fact that it makes a good centre for mountain activities, has its own Compagnie des Guides, known as Montagne Experience (tel 024 479 14 30). The Office du Tourisme (www.champery.ch) is located near the railway station on the valley road which bypasses the crowded village centre where most of the shops, banks, restaurants and hotels are situated. There are around a dozen hotels, ranging from ungraded pensions and chambres d’hôtes to a handful of 3-star establishments – contact the tourist office for details. At the roadhead another 2km upvalley Camping du Grand-Paradis is a wooded site, open all-year with good facilities, and with the Auberge du Grand-Paradis nearby (www.grandparadis.ch). Almost opposite the tourist office stands the valley station of the Planachaux cable car, or Téléphérique Croix de Culet, which serves the Portes du Soleil ski area (www.telechampery.com), while upvalley near the campsite, a winter-only chairlift, the Télésiège du Grand-Paradis, feeds the same area.
With its ease of access and unrestricted views, the broad Portes du Soleil ridge is understandably popular year-round. There are paths, tracks and pistes, restaurant facilities and no shortage of accommodation. At Champoussin above Val d’Illiez, the 3-star Hotel Royal Alpage Club has 131 beds (www.royalalpageclub.com), while the less ostentatious Auberge Chez Gaby has 33 beds in 11 rooms (www.chezgaby.ch). Directly above Champéry, Les Crosets has the 3-star Hotel Télécabine (www.hotel-telecabine.com), and the 54-bed Hotel des Portes du Soleil (www.hotel-portes-du-soleil.com). Each of these makes the most of a magnificent panoramic view across the valley, while outline suggestions for walks on the ridge, from which even more extensive views are had, were given under the Val de Morgins sub-chapter (1:1).
But the Portes du Soleil region does not hold a monopoly either on views or on opportunities for mountain activity. On the eastern side of the valley opposite Champéry, a via ferrata route has been devised that picks a way up cliffs above the Tière, a tributary of the Vièze which drains the Lacs d’Antème on the slopes of the Dents du Midi. The Via Ferrata de Tière begins near the Sous Sex bridge at 913m, and crossing the river in three places, it meanders back and forth across the exposed 75° rock face, rising 125m over a course some 460m long. There is no charge for tackling this via ferrata, but the use of correct safety methods and equipment is compulsory. Specialist equipment can be hired from sport’s shops in Champéry, or from the tourist office in Val d’Illiez. A short artificial climbing wall has also been created on one of the railway supports near the Champéry tourist office.
The Barme alpage
At the head of the valley, about 11km from Champéry, but reached by track and footpath from Grand-Paradis, an open basin of pastureland lies at the foot of the Dents Blanches at an altitude of almost 1500m. This is the Barme alpage, also known as Barmaz, an utterly charming plateau almost completely enclosed by mountains and sliced with streams. Two rustic mountain inns provide accommodation and refreshments: Cantine de Barmaz, which has 50 places in dorms and bedrooms (tel 024 479 11 63); and Cantine des Dents Blanches which is open from the end of May to the beginning of October with 40 dorm places (www.barmaz.com). Nearby, on the edge of woodland overlooking the pastures, a small number of b&b places are available between June and September at Chalet Bicolet (tel 024 471 14 25).
Backed by a line of crags, the Barme alpage lies about 11km from Champéry
It’s possible to drive to the Barme alpage by way of a minor road that extends from Grand-Paradis, but a direct walking route will only take a little over 1½hrs by way of a good track used by the Tour des Portes du Soleil mentioned in 1:1, and is a much better option. There’s also a scenic high route leading from Planachaux (cable car from Champéry) which joins the GR5 to curve below the frontier ridge on the way to Col de Cou in 2½hrs; and a more devious but highly recommended route from Grand-Paradis which begins by heading southeast to the privately owned Bonavau refuge (Cantine de Bonavau), then westward across a narrow saddle of about 1800m by the Signal de Bonavau, before descending to Barme in roughly 2½hrs.
But whichever route is taken to get there, a few days based at the alpage will not be regretted. By day there’s plenty to see and do, while a night spent there has its own very special atmosphere.
The main block of the Dents Blanches, which rises some 1200m above the Barme pastures, has obvious appeal for climbers, but there’s also a line of crags with routes up to 60m high; there are several paths for short walks and longer circuits that involve crossing cols, among them Col de Cou (Col de Coux: 1920m) and the slightly higher neighbouring Col de Bretolet that are noted as being on the route each autumn of large flocks of migrating songbirds heading south across the Alps to winter in Africa or the Mediterranean basin.
Close behind Cantine des Dents Blanches, the line of crags mentioned above is some 80m long and topped with trees, providing a choice of climbs varying in height from 30m to 60m, and ranging in grade from 3+ to 7b. The Rocher de Barme makes a useful training ground, and comes into its own when the higher mountains are out of condition.
Col de Cou across which a route leads down to Morzine, is less than 1½hrs from Barme. As has been noted, GR5 crosses this frontier pass, as do walkers tackling the Tour des Portes du Soleil. But for those staying at Barme, a recommended circular walk heads south from the col to ascend in 15mins to the 1989m summit of La Berthe, a fine vantage point, then continues along the frontier ridge to Col de Bretolet, where you then cut back across the east flank of the mountain to rejoin the path between Col de Cou and the Barme pastures.
TOUR DES DENTS BLANCHES
Around the block of the Dents Blanches a three–four day trek has been created, most of which takes place on the French side of the mountains, and the suggestion here is to make a counter-clockwise tour, beginning at the Barme pastureland. (For information visit www.tour-dentsblanches.com).
Day 1: From one of the mountain inns at Barme, go up to the Col de Cou and follow GR5 waymarks on the French side below the Terres Maudites cliffs. Continue round to the Col and Refuge de la Golèse then, leaving GR5, branch away up to the Refuge de Bostan-Tornay which stands at 1763m below the Dents d’Oddaz, to conclude a short day’s trek of about 4hrs. The refuge has 100 places and is manned from mid-June until the end of September (www.refugedebostan.com).
Day 2: The second stage is much longer than the first, during which you lose more than 800m of height by descending to Les Allamands and then curving round Le Crêt, followed by a long climb to Refuge de Folly, and an even longer ascent to Combe de Puaires just south of Pointe de la Golette at 2300m, about 7½hrs after setting out. A 300m descent brings the trekker to Lac de la Vogealle in 40mins, with another 20mins needed to reach Refuge de la Vogealle at 1901m. This hut has 40 places, and is manned from mid-June to mid-September (tel 033 450 89 77 59).
Day 3: Returning to Swiss territory by way of the 2395m Col du Sageroux 1½hrs after leaving the Vogealle refuge (beware of stonefall during and after heavy rain), the route of the TDB remains high along the frontier ridge west of Mont Ruan, then uses Col des Ottans (2496m) to descend into the stony Susanfe basin below the Dents du Midi. Reaching Cabane de Susanfe 4hrs after departing the Refuge de la Vogealle, it might be tempting to book a bedspace for the night, as there’s still another 2½hrs or so of trekking left (including the crossing of a minor pass) before reaching Barme. But if you’re not short of time and have plenty of energy, continue downvalley to descend the steep and exposed Pas d’Encel above a ravine, sharing for a while the Tour des Dents du Midi, then break away from that route by a stream, and head across a steep hillside to the privately owned Cantine de Bonavau. Above this a short but steepish climb brings you onto a narrow grass saddle on a spur overlooking the Barme pastures, with a steady descent of the west slope to conclude the trek.
South of Col de Bretolet, the 2406m Tête de Bossetan more or less marks the western end of the Dents Blanches wall, which should not be confused with the better-known 4356m Dent Blanche in the Pennine Alps (see 2:6). While a short spur continues roughly westward, carrying the spectacular cliffs of Les Terres Maudites, the frontier ridge turns to the east, then kinks southeast across Col de Bossetan (2289m) before rising for almost 400m to the Pointe de la Golette which effectively marks a junction of ridges. To the southwest the crest of Les Dents d’Oddaz projects well into France, but the Dents Blanches ridge stretches a little north of east over a succession of minor summits and cols. Its precipitous north wall, whose highest point is the Dent de Barme (2759m), usually holds onto pockets of snow throughout much of the summer. According to an early Baedeker guide, its ascent from the Barme alpage was (in wonderfully restrained 19th-century prose) a 6hr climb ‘without danger for proficients’.
Dents du Midi
Not surprisingly it is the block of the Dents du Midi that attracts most of the attention of visitors to the Val d’Illiez. Seen from almost everywhere in the valley this abrupt wall, with its clean strata lines picked out by snow from autumn through to early summer, culminates in a row of seven prominent peaks – the famed dents or teeth. Aligned roughly northeast to southwest, these seven dents are: Cime de l’Est, La Forteresse, Cathédrale, Eperon, Dent Jaune, Les Doigts, and the highest of them all, the Haute Cime at 3257m.
Although not particularly high by comparison with summits in the nearby Mont Blanc or Pennine ranges, the Dents du Midi give every impression of being big mountains, and while there are only three small glaciers, and the rock is said to vary from good to mediocre and even bad, the range offers some fine expeditions. Generally speaking, the easiest routes are to be found on the west and south sides; the more difficult ascents being made on the north and east flanks. Most of the climbing takes place in the snow-free months of July to early October, but the Haute Cime is also climbed in winter on ski.
Signal de Soi gives a clear view of the Northwest Face of the Dents du Midi
There are huts on both the north and south sides from which to make a base. On the north there’s the unmanned, eight-place Refuge de Chalin (2595m) which is owned by the SAC (www.cas-chaussy.ch), and the nicely situated, privately owned Cabane d’Antème (2037m) which has 35 places and is manned from July to mid-October (www.vs-wallis.ch/wallis/huetten/enteme). On the south side of the massif the Cabane de Susanfe (2102m) is SAC owned, with 72 places and a warden in residence from mid-June until early October (www.susanfe.ch); while high on the southeast flank close to the Plan Névé glacier, the SAC’s Refuge des Dents du Midi (2884m) has just 20 places and self-catering facilities (info: tel 024 466 15 30), while overlooking the dammed Lac de Salanfe, the Auberge de Salanfe (1942m) is owned by the Commune d’Evionnaz. With 120 places, the auberge is manned from June to the end of September (www.salanfe.ch).
Since very little information about the Dents du Midi appears in English, a brief summary of routes on the main dents is offered here. But for a full run-down, see the SAC guide Chaîne franco-suisse (in French).
Cime de l’Est (3177m) is arguably the most impressive of all the peaks, but standing at the northeastern end of the chain (thus being the farthest from Val d’Illiez) it is seen at its best from the Rhône valley side where its triangular NE (St Maurice) Face tapers to a sharp point some 2800m above the valley. First climbed in October 1943 by André Roch, with P Bonnant and R Aubert, this remains one of the peak’s classic routes, graded TD. The voie normale (PD+) is by the West Ridge, while a direct ascent of the Arête de Valère (North Ridge) foiled a number of parties before Chris Bonington, John Harlin and Rusty Baillie achieved its first full ascent in August 1965, a route now reckoned to be TD+ and accessible by a short approach from the unmanned Chalin refuge.
La Forteresse (3164m) is a double summited tower situated above the Col de la Cime de l’Est, first climbed in 1870 by one of the district’s greatest advocates, Emile Javelle, with J Oberhauser. Their route, by the East Ridge (F), is today’s voie normale, while more challenging climbs are to be had on the NW Couloir (AD) and the Soi Ridge/NW Face (AD+).
La Cathédrale (3160m) is the twin of La Forteresse, from which it is separated by a gap containing the Aiguillete Délez, named after the guide who made the first ascent in 1890. The popular Cathédrale-Forteresse traverse is graded AD, as is the SE Face, but the Délez Couloir goes at PD+. Rising from the Fenêtre de Soi, which separates the Cathédrale from L’Eperon, the SW Ridge rewards with one of the classic climbs of the Dents du Midi chain, an exposed 150m route first climbed in 1928 and now graded D, IV.
L’Eperon (3144m) rises above the secondary summit of the Petit Eperon by way of a series of rock steps which appear saw-like from the Val d’Illiez. The easiest route is by way of the SW Ridge above the Col de l’Eperon; the NE Ridge provides a traverse of the two summits at AD, while the NW Face is said to attract attention in winter.
Dent Jaune (3186m) is the elegant yellow thumb-like projection standing proud above the deep gap of the Col de la Dent Jaune, on the other side of which rise the Doigts de Champéry and de Salanfe. Originally there were two summits here, but one of these collapsed in the 19th century. The voie normale begins at the deep col mentioned above, cuts diagonally across the SE Face to join the NE Ridge, then follows this to the summit. Known as the Vire aux Genevois it was first climbed in 1894 by Georg and Malsch, and is now graded AD.
Doigts de Champéry and de Salanfe (3210m, 3205m) are grouped together with a secondary point known as the Pouce. Stonefall is a major concern here, especially in the Couloirs des Doigts, du Pouce and Dent Jaune. The NNE Face of the Doigt de Champéry offers the most challenging of the routes; a long and serious TD- climb pioneered by Lugon and Ramel in August 1937.
Haute Cime du Dents du Midi (3257m), despite being the highest of the group, its summit is easily reached by little more than a steep 2–2½hr walk from Col de Susanfe – ‘very fatiguing, but without danger to the sure-footed,’ is how Baedeker described the route from the col. First climbed (solo) in 1788 by local Val d’Illiez priest, J M Clément, the panorama from the summit is simply stunning, so much so that it has often been said that all climbers should visit it at least once in their lives. All the major peaks of the northern Alps are visible; in 1901 Baedeker said of it: ‘The view of Mont Blanc and the Alps of the Valais and Bern is imposing; the background to the S is formed by the Alps of Dauphiné and Piedmont; the Lake of Geneva is visible from Villeneuve to Vevey.’
Whilst routes to individual summits have their obvious attraction, one of the classic outings of the group is the Traverse of the Dents du Midi (D, IV). Starting from a base at the Auberge de Salanfe, this magnificent expedition is reckoned to require around 15hrs in all, under good conditions. First achieved in a southwest–northeast direction in 1893 by one-time President of the Alpine Club, J P Farrar, with the guides Pierre-Louis Délez and Daniel Maquignaz, the traverse is said to be considerably easier when tackled from east to west (AD, III+). Though normally attempted in summer, it was first completed solo in winter in 1974, but the route still demands to be taken seriously, for the ridge is over 3km long and prior knowledge of individual sections would be a great benefit to anyone considering tackling what is, after all, one of the finest outings of its grade in the Alps.
ABBÉ CLÉMENT: FIRST MAN ON TOP
Abbé Jean-Maurice Clément, who it is thought made the first ascent of the Haute Cime du Dents du Midi at the age of 54, was a cultivated man with a library of a thousand volumes on natural history and medicine. Desperately unhappy with the parish to which he had been sent in 1780, he was on bad terms with his parishioners with whom he had frequent quarrels, and felt severely restricted by the limitations imposed by his valley. Perhaps this was why he climbed Haute Cime alone. According to a letter published in the Journal de Lausanne, he climbed what he termed ‘two central peaks’ on 22 August 1788. Although his description of the climb does not make it easy to identify his ‘two central peaks’, it has long been assumed that the Haute Cime was one of them. ‘The weather was fairly fine,’ he wrote, but despite the quality of the view from the summit, he was apparently not sufficiently inspired to describe it. ‘The time I spent on the top was too short to enable me to give a useful and interesting account of the things which struck me. It would require a second climb, which I shall never make unless with a companion.’ After that he abandoned any desire to climb elsewhere.
TOUR DES DENTS DU MIDI
The Tour des Dents du Midi (TDM) makes a rewarding trek. Although its full length is only about 42km, the terrain is such that most trekkers take three–four days to complete it. The scenic quality is high, with waterfalls cascading from steep slab walls; there are lakes and pools, and flowery pastures in which it’s possible to study chamois and marmot. Accommodation is in gîtes and both privately owned and SAC huts, and there’s a choice of at least three starting points: i) Champéry in Val d’Illiez, ii) La Doey above Vérossaz on the Rhône valley side of the mountains, reached by postbus from St-Maurice, or iii) Mex which stands above Evionnaz. In this brief summary we begin at Champéry, and tackle the route in a counter-clockwise direction (for information see www.dentsdumidi.ch).
Day 1: Wander upvalley from Champéry to the Cantine de Bonavau at 1550m. Shortly after, cross a stream to join the main path of the TDM which now climbs against steep slabs supporting the Dents de Bonavau (fixed cables and chains), then up the side of a ravine into the rocky groove of Pas d’Encel. Above this lies the small but wildly attractive Susanfe valley, and the SAC-owned Cabane de Susanfe (see above) standing at 2102m, about 3½–4hrs from Champéry.
Day 2: Aiming for the head of the valley among limestone ribs and rocks, this stage then rises over mounds of shale and grit before zigzagging up to the 2494m Col de Susanfe after 1hr. Lying between the Tour Sallière and the 3257m Haute Cime, the col provides an opportunity (given time and favourable conditions) to make the 2–2½hr ascent of the latter peak – allow 1½hrs back to the col. From the col either plunge directly down a steep slope of snow and scree, or follow a vague path down to a rock barrier and along an exposed ledge to join the direct route in a marshy meadowland a short distance from Lac de Salanfe, at the northeast end of which stands the Auberge de Salanfe (see above). This is reached in just 2½hrs from Cabane de Susanfe, or 6hrs including the ascent of the Haute Cime. If the latter has been climbed, then an overnight will be required here, otherwise it would be worth continuing as far as Mex (see below).
Day 3: The continuing route immediately heads for Col du Jorat (2210m) on a spur of the Dent du Salantin, reached in just 45mins from the auberge. From the col you look north down a steep slope, with the Rhône valley seen in the distance. A good path descends across screes and over high pastures, soon gaining views of the Cime de l’Est above to the left, and a little under 3hrs from Salanfe, arrives in Mex, a small huddle of a village at 1118m. Accommodation and refreshments are available at the comfortable Auberge de l’Armailli (www.armailli.ch) which has 18 dormitory places. A mostly woodland walk carries the route beyond Mex and into a combe north of the Cime de l’Est, followed by the ascent of a steep grass slope to the Crêt de Jeur (1555m) and on to the gîte of Alpage de Chindonne at 1604m (79 places in dorms and rooms, open June to end October; tel 024 471 33 96), about 7hrs from Salanfe.
Day 4: This final stage takes the route on a long traverse below the NW Face of the Dents du Midi, with some of the finest views of the whole tour, but with several high points to cross, this is also the most demanding day of all. Passing below hanging glaciers, it cuts into combes and crosses several glacial torrents, and about 3½hrs after leaving Chindonne, arrives at the little privately owned Cabane d’Antème (see above), set just below the Antème lake in a cirque at the foot of the Haute Cime. After crossing the lake’s outflow, the TDM begins a long descent that passes the chalets of Métécoui, and 30mins later comes to a stunning viewpoint from which to study a long-drop waterfall cascading from a ravine below the Susanfe glen. Later, cross the stream below this waterfall at the lowest point of the whole tour, and in another 10mins desert the TDM proper to return to Champéry by way of the Cantine de Bonavau, at the end of a 6–7hr stage.
Reached from Champéry, the Cantine de Bonavau stands just off the Tour des Dents du Midi
1:3 Vallon de Susanfe
Trapped between the western end of the Dents du Midi and the Dents Blanches–Mont Ruan–Tour Sallière wall, the Susanfe basin is a romantically wild mountain sanctuary rimmed with shrinking glaciers whose waters funnel through the Pas d’Encel ravine as the first major tributary of La Vièze, the river that drains the Val d’Illiez. As such it is really part of the Illiez valley system, but it seems so remote from that valley, and so distinctly different, that it deserves to be treated here as a separate entity.
There is no access by road, and apart from the Pas d’Encel route at 1798m, all other cols of entry are well above 2300m and likely to be confused with snow and/or ice until at best early July. Naming from west to east, these are the steep 2395m Col du Sageroux on the frontier ridge between Mont Sageroux and the Tête de Ottans; Col des Ottans at 2496m which forms a link with the former col; the glacial Col de la Tour Sallière (2834m) which offers a way down to Lac d’Emosson; and, easiest of all, the 2494m Col de Susanfe which gives access to the Salanfe basin and is used by trekkers on the Tour des Dents du Midi.
Within the valley, just an hour’s walk away from Col de Susanfe, stands the Cabane de Susanfe in a landscape of rock-and-grass hillocks at 2102m (for details see the Dents du Midi section in 1:2). This well-sited hut is useful as a base for a wealth of expeditions, not least a range of climbs on Mont Ruan which rises to the south, and on the Tour Sallière which forms the glen’s massive southeast cornerstone.
Located between Mont Ruan and the Dents du Midi, Cabane de Susanfe makes a useful base
Although by no means the highest peak in the district, the handsome 3057m Mont Ruan is a mountain with two tops, first climbed in 1875 (from the southeast) by G Béraneck, and well worth the attention of activists based here for a few days. The North Face is claimed to be around 1500m high; a rock wall broken by a steep ice shelf at about two-thirds height. However, routes on this face, graded D–TD, are said to be dangerous, for the quality of the rock is poor. But it is the ridges that give the best climbing from the Susanfe basin; the first of these being the West Ridge above Col des Ottans (2hrs from Cabane de Susanfe) which gives a PD traverse over the 2845m Petit Ruan; a route climbed in 1885 by Champéry guides. The East Ridge (AD, III) is a recommended minor classic beginning at the Col de la Tour Sallière (reached in a little under 3hrs from the Susanfe Hut), which offers mixed climbing in a fine situation. The final ridge leading to the summit is a narrow knife-edge of sometimes corniced snow or ice, while the summit itself gives a much-lauded panorama.
Tour Sallière (3219m) is an impressive rock pyramid at the head of the valley, with two secondary summits on its North Ridge, by which it is linked across the saddle of Col du Susanfe with the Haute Cime du Dents du Midi. These secondary summits are L’Eglise (3077m) and the higher Le Dôme at 3138m, both of which are usually traversed on the way to climb the Tour Sallière itself. The first of these is reached by a route graded D (IV-) in 4–6hrs from the col, then follows along the broad connecting ridge for 30mins to Le Dôme. In order to continue to the Tour involves a PD descent to the 3035m depression of the Col du Dôme, followed by a fairly direct and uncomplicated ascent of the main ridge (PD, II) in another 1–1½hrs. First climbed in 1858, the Tour Sallière has three faces; the NE (Grand Revers) which provides some very fine climbs from the Salanfe basin (see 1:5), the NW Face overlooking the Susanfe refuge and which has a steep, and at times a mostly snow, route with a total ascent of more than 1100m from the hut (PD); and the South Face whose ascent affords the easiest, albeit a rather monotonous, way to the summit. If this latter route is to be attempted from the Susanfe glen, it will be necessary first to cross the glaciated Col de la Tour Sallière which is a much more demanding climb.
But the finest outing for climbers based at the Susanfe Hut is undoubtedly the Traverse of the Sallière-Ruan Group, a long expedition requiring something like 15hrs of sustained effort. This ambitious route was first achieved in 1908 by R Perret, E Défago and S Grenon. By following the ridge crest throughout, it is graded D with pitches of III and IV.
1:4 Rhône Valley Approaches
South of Lac Léman the broad, flat-bottomed valley of the Rhône makes an effective divide between the Chablais region and the Bernese Alps, and serves as a major artery of communication, carrying large volumes of traffic by both road and rail. Add to that a number of comparatively small industrial units and power lines, and the valley begins to lose any real aesthetic appeal. And yet, as we have seen on the journey from Monthey to Morgins and Val d’Illiez, it does not take long to be among vineyards and walnut and chestnut trees, with backward views across the valley to the Dent de Morcles and other peaklets and rocky outliers of the Alps of Canton Vaud.
And so it is when you approach the mountains from St-Maurice. Nestling in the valley at the foot of the Cime de l’Est, this is an old town which grew around a monastery of 515AD, and takes its name from the warrior-saint said to have been martyred nearby. A small, no-nonsense workaday town, it has its attractive corners and plenty of history, but for users of this guide its main importance is as a point of access to the east side of the Dents du Midi. The town has several hotels, a campsite, restaurants, shops and a bank, and a railway station on the main Geneva–Martigny–Brig line, although when coming from Geneva it’s usually necessary to change at Lausanne to find a train that stops here. The tourist office (www.st-maurice.ch) is about 100m from the railway station, while from the post office opposite the station the local postbus begins its infrequent journey to either Vérossaz (La Doey) or Mex, both of which are on or near the route of the Tour des Dents du Midi (see 1:2).
Vérossaz is spread across an open hillside above and to the west of St-Maurice at 864m, but the road to it actually leaves the Rhône valley at Massongex, rather than St-Maurice from where the postbus sets out. The bus continues above the hamlet as far as La Doey, where a signpost directs walkers to the route of the Tour des Dents du Midi along a narrow metalled road heading into woodland. The TDM proper is reached where it enters a grassy combe containing the Fahy alpage, backed by waterfalls cascading from Les Trois Merles and the Cime de l’Est, then swings round to cross the viewpoint of Les Jeurs and continues northward before an alternative path cuts away to the southwest. This strikes up the steep slopes of the Dent de Valère and along the Crête du Dardeu to gain the Refuge de Chalin (5hrs from Vérossaz). This small unmanned hut on the 2595m Tête de Chalin has just eight places, but serves as an overnight base for climbs on the Cime de l’Est and others of the Dents du Midi that rise immediately behind it (see 1:2). The hut enjoys a spectacular, airy situation, with distant views of the Pennine Alps being especially memorable (www.cas-chaussy.ch).
About 4km south of Vérossaz as the crow flies, but a mite longer via the waymarked TDM trail, the charming crowded village of Mex is reached by a short but tortuous road directly from St-Maurice. Located 700m above the Rhône, with woodland both above and below, a cutting dug by the St Barthélemy stream to the south, and the Cime de l’Est soaring above the village to the southwest, Mex has considerable merit as a staging post and short-term base, from some of whose upper houses a fine view can be had of the Grand Combin in the southeast. Overnight accommodation may be found here at the local café-restaurant, Auberge de l’Armailli (see 1:2).
A path descends from the village to Evionnaz in the valley south of St-Maurice, but by following the TDM southwestward, the Salanfe basin with its large dammed lake, busy auberge and views of the south flank of the Dents du Midi, may be gained by a walk of around 3½–4hrs. However, by a combination of road and mule-path, that same basin is approached by a somewhat more circuitous route that climbs above the deep cleft of the Trient gorge near Salvan.
1:5 Vallée du Trient
The Trient valley proper begins on the outer edge of the Mont Blanc range in the snowfields of the Plateau du Trient, rimmed by the Aiguille du Tour, Aiguilles Dorées and Pointe d’Orny. From the northern edge of the plateau the fast-receding Trient glacier cascades steeply downhill to a funnel of moraines, pinewoods and pastures that spill out by the hamlet of Le Peuty which neighbours the small village of Trient, a village that’s well-known to trekkers as an overnight halt on both the Tour du Mont Blanc and the Chamonix to Zermatt Walker’s Haute Route.
The main road link between Martigny and Chamonix crosses Col de la Forclaz above Trient, and skirts the village on its way down the narrowing valley before turning southwest round a spur on the way to the French border at Le Châtelard. Before reaching that border, however, another road cuts sharply back to the right and climbs to Finhaut, built on a terrace high above the head of the Trient gorge. Meanwhile, the Trient river, boosted by the Eau Noire (which begins at the Col des Montets in France), burrows its way into a deep shaft heading northeast towards the Rhône’s valley. Walking routes stretch the length of the ever-deepening gorge, but keep to its upper reaches. That which goes from Finhaut to Vernayaz on the sunny left bank has the pick of the views, while another on the right bank, beginning at the mouth of the Vallée du Trient and ending in the Rhône valley below Gueuroz, links a series of remote hamlets: Litro, Planajeur, La Crêta, La Tailla and Gueuroz itself.
Trient, a small village visited by hundreds of trekkers every summer
While there are paths and farm tracks on both flanks, and the narrow-gauge Martigny to Chamonix railway (which carries the Mont Blanc Express) has managed to forge a route via stretches of tunnel along the north side of the gorge, the terrain is presumably too abrupt to encourage a road to be built all the way along the gorge walls – on either bank. There’s a road at the upper end, as we have seen on the way to Finhaut, and there’s another at the lower end that serves Salvan and Les Marecottes, but there’s nothing in between. So in order to find access to the Salanfe basin below the Dents du Midi, other than by the walker’s cols already mentioned, it is necessary to turn out of the Rhône valley along a minor road found on the northwest outskirts of Martigny at La Bâtiaz.
At first running parallel with the original valley road, it soon angles across the steep hillside of Mont d’Ottan, goes through a tunnel and emerges to cross the Pont du Gueuroz which spans the dramatic Gorges du Trient, here just a few paces wide with the river surging 180m below the bridge. Across this the road climbs on to the small resorts of Salvan and Les Marecottes, both of which have been built on natural shelves high above the gorge facing south and east. Salvan is the larger of the two, but hotel and b&b accommodation is available in both, while from Les Marecottes a cable car rises to Le Creusaz at 1777m for a panoramic view that includes the Mont Blanc range to the south. (Tourist information for both Salvan and Les Marecottes can be obtained from www.salvan.ch).
A narrow side road winds above Salvan heading north past the chalets of Les Granges on the way to the Lac de Salanfe. It is a narrow road too, mostly single-track with passing bays cut into the steeply wooded hillside, and with a couple of tunnels blasted through the rock, from the last of which you come out at the entrance to the Vallon de Van. This is a tight wedge of a valley; a valley of pasture and woodland with the tiny hamlet of Van d’ Haut (1371m) its only habitation reached by shuttle minibus service from Salvan and Les Marecottes in the high summer season. A short distance beyond the hamlet the road comes to a halt at Camping Van d’Haut, from where a mule-path strikes ahead to make the final 500m ascent to the Lac de Salanfe reservoir, reached by a walk of about 1½hrs from the roadhead.
The Salanfe Basin
‘Whether you come to climb or not,’ said R L G Irving, ‘you should see the Salanfe basin from which [the Dents du Midi] rise; its praises were sung long ago by Emile Javelle and he has not exaggerated its charm’ (The Alps).
With the ever-busy Auberge de Salanfe (see 1:2) standing at the northeastern corner of the reservoir at 1942m, the Tour Sallière apparently blocking the western end of the lake, and the SE Face of the Dents du Midi rising to its north, this is a truly dramatic and understandably popular location. No wonder the English-language interim guide to the district described it as ‘a sort of “seaside” resort for the Rhône valley townships below’. With clouds hanging in the basin it can seem a haunted place, but on clear days of sunshine it has a unique and exquisite kind of beauty.
For a brief one-off visit a stroll along the south shore of the lake will provide perspective and memorable views (clouds permitting, that is), but the north side gives more variety, especially if you head through the marshy meadows and go part-way towards the Col de Susanfe. And then there’s an undemanding 45min walk northeast of the auberge that leads to Col du Jorat on a broad path used by the TDM (described in 1:2); the col being especially rewarding for those who are unfamiliar with the east side of the Dents du Midi range.
The SAC-owned Cabane de Susanfe stands in the wild little Susanfe valley
More challenging routes for the walker include the climb to Col de Susanfe and ascent of the Haute Cime (see 1:2); the crossing of the same col (in 2–2¼hrs) to gain access to the Vallon and Cabane de Susanfe (40mins from the col) on a path that continues to Champèry; while some 530m or so above and to the south of the lake at the head of a hanging valley, the 2462m Col d’Emaney (1½hrs from the auberge) offers walkers an opportunity to make the uncomplicated ascent of Le Luisin (2786m) up the ridge to the left in another hour to gain some tremendous views.
By crossing the Col d’Emaney to its south side, however, you gain a choice of routes, the easiest being a descent along the left bank of the Vallon d’Emaney to Les Marecottes or Finhaut. A second option links with the highly scenic Col de Barberine (2481m) beyond which lies the Lac d’Emosson; while a third crosses the 2451m Col de Fenestral above Finhaut. This last is part of the Tour du Ruan, of which more below.
Those longer suggestions, of course, take walkers out of the Salanfe basin, while climbers might be persuaded to have a base at the Auberge de Salanfe and enjoy a few routes nearby. Alternatively, for those whose interest is in tackling climbs on the SE Face of the Dents du Midi, the unmanned 20-place Refuge des Dents du Midi is situated just below the almost level Plan Névé glacier at 2884m, and may be reached in about 3–3½hrs from the lake. From this hut both the South Face and WSW Ridge of the Cime de l’Est are obvious attractions; the first offering an exposed PD route with some delicate pitches of III; while the WSW Ridge via the Col de la Cime de l’Est provides the easiest route to the summit (F with pitches of II).
The massive triangular NE (Grand Revers) Face of the 3219m Tour Sallière dominates the western end of Lac de Salanfe and holds a choice of routes for activists happy to be seduced away from the Dents du Midi. The 1280m Diagonal Route graded PD+ is one; the NE Buttress, or Itinéraire des Trois Français, is another which goes at AD (III). However, the Arête d’Emaney which rises from the Col d’Emaney ESE of the Tour Sallière and was first climbed direct in 1902, was long recognised as providing one of the best climbs of the district (IV with one pitch of V), although the Délez Chimney, which contains the main difficulty, can be avoided by an exposed variation.
TOUR DU RUAN
Though not so well known as the Tour des Dents du Midi described in 1:2, the clockwise Tour du Ruan is another multi-day trek worth the consideration of walkers wishing to understand better the topography of this corner of the Alps. Roughly half the route is spent across the French border, and views are memorable on every stage. (For information see www.tourduruan.com) The route is also described by Hilary Sharp in Trekking in the Alps.
Day 1: Leaving Auberge de Salanfe go round the south side of the Salanfe lake and climb the narrow hanging valley leading to Col d’Emaney, from where the tip of the Matterhorn can be seen far to the east. Descend into the head of the little valley below the Pointes d’Aboillon, wander down the glen to the Emaney chalets, then break away on an alternative path which crosses the stream and climbs to the Col de Fenestral at 2451m. With the Mont Blanc range in view, go down to the Finestral alpage, then contour round to Lac d’Emosson and cross the massive dam wall (more great views of Mont Blanc). Either continue along a service road, or take a signed path through the Gorge du Vieux towards the southern end of Lac du Vieux Emosson. The timber-built Refuge Vieux Emosson (2200m) stands below the dam that closes the eastern end of the lake, and is gained about 7½–8hrs after setting out.
Day 2: A short walk above the refuge leads to the Vieux Emosson lake where you make an arc round its north shore, pass the dinosaur prints (see box) and cross the bounding ridge (with chain safeguards) into France at the cone-shaped Cheval Blanc (2831m). Should you have the energy, and the weather is good, an option here is to make the ascent of Mont Buet at 3096m. Descending into the Combe de Buet the Tour visits the little Lac du Plan du Buet, and continues among limestone towers before descending to the Chalet-Refuge du Grenairon which provides accommodation above the Giffre valley at 1974m, about 5½hrs from the Vieux Emosson refuge.
Day 3: Much of this day is spent working towards the head of the Giffre valley blocked by the Dents Blanche–Mont Ruan wall, and with the huge Tenneverge ridge which carries the Franco-Swiss border, soaring 1900m above to the right. A 1000m descent takes you down to the valley, at first on limestone, then through meadows lavish with flowers in early summer. Crossing the valley in its upper reaches near the Chalets du Boret, the way then climbs a little over 500m to gain the CAF-owned Refuge de la Vogealle at 1901m.
Day 4: The final stage of the Tour du Ruan returns to Switzerland at the 2395m Col de Sageroux, about 1½hrs above the hut, then cuts along the ridge heading east over the Tête des Ottans to Col des Ottans, which is 100m higher than Sageroux, and from where you descend steeply (caution required) into the Vallon de Susanfe. From Cabane de Susanfe head upvalley, cross Col de Susanfe and make the descent into the Salanfe basin to complete the circuit at Auberge de Salanfe at the end of a 6½hr day.
Mont Ruan and the Tour Sallière, seen from the Pas d’Encel
Clouds hang low over Lac d’Emosson
Lacs d’Emosson
In common with the St Bernard Express (see Chapter 2) the Mont Blanc Express which begins in Martigny must be one of Europe’s slowest ‘express’ trains. Grinding slowly along the left bank of the Gorges du Trient it has a station at Finhaut, an unpretentious resort whose buildings appear to cascade down the steep hillside. The tourist office is located at the railway station (www.finhaut.ch) at the lower end of the village which has a modest number of shops, a bank, a small choice of hotel and pension accommodation, and a 14-place dortoir, Les Alpes. A few kilometres further upvalley Le Châtelard marks the border with France, and it is here that rail passengers bound for Chamonix need to change trains. Le Châtelard has two hotels and a funicular, said to be the world’s steepest with a gradient of 87%, linking with a narrow-gauge tourist train and a ‘mini funicular’ to provide access with Lac d’Emosson (www.emosson-trains.ch). The same reservoir’s dam can also be reached in summer by road from Finhaut, and by a public bus service from Martigny.
The route to Finhaut and Col de la Gueulaz above the Emosson dam breaks away from the main Martigny to Chamonix road a short distance outside Le Châtelard. It makes for a scenically exciting drive, for as you sweep up the hillside a view opens through the upper Vallée du Trient to its glacier, then as you pass above Finhaut a retrospective view to the northeast reveals the Bernese Alps beyond the Rhône valley, and finally and most remarkably, Mont Blanc and the Aiguilles dominate the southern horizon with a vision of snow, ice and jagged granite ramparts.
Col de la Gueulaz (1965m) marks the roadhead with plenty of parking space, a bus stop, tourist information kiosk, a restaurant, public toilets, a small chapel and views overlooking the Lac d’Emosson. By walking up the steep path above the chapel for 10–15mins, the modest summit of Six Jeur unfolds a truly impressive panorama, and is recommended.
From the dam Lac d’Emosson is seen stretching north for about 4.5km towards the head of the Barberine valley where Mont Ruan and the Tour Sallière close it off with an arc of rock and ice. Despite the intrusion of the massive dam wall, it is an enticing, wild-looking district with several worthwhile outings for both walkers and climbers, but it’s difficult to resist speculating how lovely the valley must have been before the first dam was built here in 1926. Until then the Barberine valley was noted for its alpine pastures and small farms; it was visited by a few climbers, botanists and perhaps chamois hunters, and it was near the head of the valley on its west side that Jacques Balmat, who had made the first ascent of Mont Blanc with Dr Paccard, lost his life in 1834 when prospecting for gold.
The smaller Vieux Emosson lake which lies in a combe further to the west was dammed in 1950, then in 1975 the Barberine dam was superseded by a massive 150m high barrage created as part of a joint Franco-Swiss hydro scheme. This effectively drowned that part of the valley which had survived the initial flooding, including a number of chalets and an inn. Yet despite its effect on the valley, in truth the dam wall is not only a fine piece of civil engineering, but it makes an extraordinary vantage point, having an uninterrupted outlook to Mont Blanc in one direction, and to the Tour Sallière and the lake in the other. But it is also noteworthy for another reason – a line of holds has been fitted to make this one of the most impressive artificial climbing walls in the Alps.
On the east side of the lake a track extends towards the head of the valley, with a path cutting away from it two-thirds of the way along. This path climbs northeastward to the broad Col de Barberine (2481m) which lies at the southern end of the Pointes d’Abboillon, and is a wonderful viewpoint. In order to create a full day’s circular walk, it would be possible to descend from the col into the Vallon d’Emaney, and wander down that valley as far as the Emaney chalets at 1855m, then return to Col de Gueulaz and Lac d’Emosson by way of Col de Fenestral (2451m).
The 2834m Col de la Tour Sallière is a different proposition. Located on the valley’s headwall ridge west of the Tour Sallière, it is reached by way of the Glacier des Fonds, the upper reaches of which are sometimes threatened by stonefall. Once gained, the descent on the north side leads to Cabane de Susanfe in the Vallon de Susanfe (see 1:3) by way of the steep Glacier du Mont Ruan.
While the east side of the valley is contained, as we have seen, by the ridge of the Pointes d’Abboillon, the west side of Lac d’Emosson is largely overlooked by Pic de Tenneverge, a symmetrical 2985m pyramid of Jurassic limestone first climbed via its south flank in October 1863, nine years after his famous ascent of the Wetterhorn, by Sir Alfred Wills and C Gurlie starting from the Col de Tenneverge; a route today graded PD. Having been attracted to the Giffre valley on the French side of the mountain after climbing Mont Buet in 1857, Wills built a large chalet there, which he named The Eagle’s Nest. From there he made at least two new ascents of Pic de Tenneverge; the first by the south flank, and the second a year later via the ENE Ridge after making a traverse of the entire Prazon glacier from the Col du Sageroux.
The majority of walkers who come here, however, make their way to Lac du Vieux Emosson with the aim of seeking out the dinosaur footprints discovered above the lake at an altitude of about 2400m in 1976. With a small refuge standing just below it, this lake is on the route of the Tour du Ruan, outlined in the box above, and is bounded by cliffs and screes to create a much more wild scene than that of its larger neighbour. After crossing the Emosson dam a narrow service road cuts roughly westward along the south side of the reservoir and actually goes all the way to Lac du Vieux Emosson via a couple of tunnels. If followed all the way, this walk would be achieved in about 1hr 20mins from Col de la Gueulaz; although it’s possible to avoid the last third of roadway by taking an unmarked path through the steep little Gorge du Vieux which leads directly to the Refuge Vieux Emosson (2200m), a low, single-storey timber built hut (www.cabaneduvieux.ch) overlooking the Emosson lake to the east. Topos of local climbs are available at this hut.
A better option is to break away from the road at the second path junction where a sign directs a cairned and sparsely waymarked route to the dinosaur tracks in 2hrs. This path avoids the road altogether, and cuts through the peaceful Gorge de Veudale (much longer than the Gorge du Vieux) and is the one to take unless, that is, your plan is to go only as far as the refuge at Vieux Emosson, in which case the better plan is to remain with the road. The cairned footpath route leads to the southern end of Lac du Vieux Emosson, about 45mins beyond the refuge, and continues to the site of the now famous dinosaur footprints.
THE VIEUX EMOSSON DINOSAURS
Discovered above the southern end of the Lac du Vieux Emosson by a French geologist in 1976, a group of fossilized tracks has been identified as those belonging to dinosaurs that lived around 240–65 million years ago. The rock slab in which the surprisingly small footprints are embedded, was once part of a sandy beach frequented by the herbivorous creatures. Laid down in shallow water during the Triassic period (about 230 million years ago), the sand and sediments were compressed and hardened as earth movements led to the disappearance of the ocean with the collision of continental tectonic plates. As the African plate shunted against its Eurasian neighbour, so the Alps were born, and rocks that had been formed below sea-level were thrust up and outward to reveal evidence of creatures that roamed long before the mountains came into existence.
The dinosaur footprints are only a few centimetres long, and as the site is the most important yet found in Europe, it is protected by chains to prevent visitors from clambering over it. Further information is available at the tourist office in Finhaut (www.finhaut.ch), and at the Vieux Emosson refuge.
Carrying the Franco-Swiss border, the combe containing the Vieux Emosson lake and the dinosaur prints is formed by a rocky crest, much of which falls on its west flank into the Giffre valley, and which runs from Point de la Finive in the north across the Tête du Grenairon and Le Cheval Blanc to the Pointe de la Terrasse above the little Val de Tré les Eaux in the south. Within that crest will be found several crossing points, among them Col du Grenairon (2685m), Col du Vieux (2569m), Col des Corbeaux (2603m) and the 2645m Col de la Terrasse, which lies northeast of Pointe de la Terrasse. But it’s also possible to cross the ridge over Le Cheval Blanc, as is the choice of the Tour du Ruan. However, not all these crossings are straightforward, and concentration may be required to find the way – especially in misty conditions.
An interesting return to Col de la Gueulaz and the Lac d’Emosson could be made by crossing Col de la Terrasse, descending on the French slope to the Chalets de Loria above Vallorcine, then making a long contour north across the steep hillside on a path which leads directly to the Emosson dam. An easier alternative is to follow the clear path round the north shore of Lac du Vieux Emosson, pass through a short tunnel at its eastern end and descend to the road at Refuge Vieux Emosson. The metalled service road which dates back to the building of the dam nearby, can now be followed down to Lac d’Emosson, or you could take the path which drops below the hut, goes through the Gorge du Vieux and brings you onto the road at a hairpin bend above the lake’s western end.
The Upper Vallée du Trient
To conclude our survey of what we loosely term the Chablais Alps, we stray south of the Gorges du Trient to the very edge of the Mont Blanc massif where the upper reaches of the Vallée du Trient are neatly contained by clearly defined ridges; rocky and uncompromising in the southeast (the highest point being the 3540m Aiguille du Tour), but steeply wooded where they spill down towards the gorge at their northernmost limit. The French border traces the most westerly of these ridges, but only as far as Col de Balme. Here the ridge kinks northward from its former northwest alignment, but the frontier line ignores this slight change of direction and cuts straight down the slope to the Eau Noire stream and the Barberine chalets, before climbing the opposite slope to Lac d’Emosson.
Col de Balme is the only obvious crossing point in this westerly ridge. A broad grass saddle at 2204m, it is a justly famous vantage point with a direct view of the Aiguilles Verte, Drus, Charmoz and Blaitière, the graceful snow dome of Mont Blanc with the Chamonix valley below, and the Aiguilles Rouges forming its right-hand wall. Baedeker called it ‘a superb view’, while alpine connoisseur R L G Irving summed it up with the words: ‘if that view does not thrill you you are better away from the Alps.’ It’s a view known to thousands of skiers who throng there in winter, and to the countless trekkers who make the crossing each year whilst tackling either the Tour du Mont Blanc or the Walker’s Haute Route from Chamonix to Zermatt. On the pass itself stands the solid, gloomy, and privately owned Refuge du Col de Balme, which is manned in summer and has 26 dormitory places (tel 04 50 54 02 33).
The Trient glacier retreating into the upper reaches of the valley
Reached by a good path in little over an hour from the col, another refuge stands on the Swiss flank below the Glacier des Grands at 2113m. Refuge Les Grands has 15 places but no permanent guardian; self-catering facilities are adequate but visitors need to provide their own food (for reservations tel 026 660 65 04). There are no views of Mont Blanc from here, for the hut has its back to the mountains and instead faces the valley’s east wall across the deep trench scoured long ago by the receding Trient glacier. Of a summer’s evening the sun’s glow lingers on the Pointe d’Orny and the rocky needles that spread from it, and the only sounds to be heard are those of running streams and the occasional rattle of a stone falling through a distant gully.
Despite foreshortening, a wildly romantic scene is crammed with rocks, shrub-carpeted hillsides and glacial remnants immediately above the hut, which occupies the site of a one-time alp. From it a path descends steeply into the valley where a footbridge offers a goodly choice of walker’s routes. You could cross that bridge to a little buvette (the Chalet du Glacier) in view of the Glacier du Trient, then climb first alongside, then above the glacier to reach the rocky gateway of the Fenêtre d’Arpette (2665m) which gives access to Val d’Arpette and Champex described in the Pennine Alps chapter (2:1); or you could turn left by the buvette along a near-level footpath that accompanies the Bisse du Trient across a wooded slope to Col de la Forclaz (see box). Or you could do neither of these things, and instead of crossing the footbridge simply turn left and wander downvalley between pastures to Le Peuty and Trient.
On the east side of the valley the Fenêtre d’Arpette is of course a crossing for mountain walkers, while the 1526m Col de la Forclaz carries the road from Martigny after labouring through vineyards and up a series of hairpins out of the Rhône valley. Beside the road on the col stands the Hotel du Col de la Forclaz (35 beds, 40 dorm places plus camping; www.coldelaforclaz.ch) almost opposite the TMB path that goes to Champex via the Bovine alp.
Having gained the col from the northeast, the road now slants down into the Vallée du Trient and bypasses both Le Peuty and neighbouring Trient on its way to Le Châtelard and the French border. For those who plan to stay overnight in the valley, however, simple gîte accommodation is available at the Refuge du Peuty (40 dorm places, open June to mid-Sept; tel 027 722 09 38), while in Trient itself the Relais du Mont Blanc has 80 places (open all year; tel 027 722 46 23), with another 21 dormitory places to be found at the Gîte La Gardienne, which is also open all year (www.largardienne.ch). (For further information go to www.trient.ch)
Although there are a few local valley walks, in summer Trient is mostly used as an overnight halt by trekkers passing through. There are no climbs easily accessible from the valley, for the main peaks of interest are approached from huts such as the Cabane du Trient under Pointe d’Orny at an altitude of 3170m, and the shortest route to that takes 5½–6hrs from the village. But in winter the upper Vallée du Trient can be explored on snowshoes and cross-country skis, while low-key ski tours are promoted on the Croix de Fer above Col de Balme, the Pointe Ronde massif southeast of the Col de la Forclaz and, of course, on the Plateau du Trient and Aiguille du Tour. The classic Haute Route ski tour avoids the Vallée du Trient by descending from Cabane du Trient into the Val d’Arpette by way of either the Fenêtre du Chamois or Col des Encandies, but in summer trekkers following the Walker’s Haute Route pass through the valley by a choice of routes, as do those tackling the ever-popular Tour du Mont Blanc. In addition, a third multi-day trek comes this way, intent on making a complete tour of the valley. This is the Tour de la Vallée du Trient.
THE BISSE DU TRIENT
Flowing from the foot of the Trient glacier to Col de la Forclaz, the Bisse du Trient is just one of more than 200 similar channels created throughout Canton Valais in order to carry glacial water sometimes a considerable distance to irrigate cultivated farmland, often in the Rhône valley. The oldest are believed to have been made in the 12th and 13th centuries; some channels being hewn from bare rock, others using hollowed tree trunks to bridge sections impossible to excavate; many were made by prisoners used as forced labour. Footpaths were invariably created alongside each bisse to facilitate its maintenance, but the track alongside the Bisse du Trient had rails laid on it in the 19th century to carry ice blocks from the glacier to the hotel at the col.
In summer Trient is a major overnight halt for countless trekkers
TOUR de LA VALLÉE DU TRIENT
This is a very fine walking tour which crosses no fewer than six cols and picks out virtually all the scenic highlights of the district. Since some of the cols hang onto their snow cover until quite late, it should not be tackled before about mid-July, by which time conditions ought to be fairly settled. The route is normally walked in a counter-clockwise direction.
Day 1: Begin at Col de la Forclaz where a path strikes uphill heading north to make the ascent of Mont de l’Arpille (2085m), over whose summit the way then descends to the Arpille alp, then much more steeply down to the Gorge du Trient which is crossed more than 1400m below Mont de l’Arpille. A steep climb out of the gorge leads to Salvan at the end of a 6–6½hr day.
Day 2: Although this is a much shorter stage (3hrs), it’s uphill all the way. Leaving Salvan along the narrow road that works its way to the Vallon de Van, it concludes by taking the old mule-path from the campsite at the roadhead. This goes steeply uphill to the Salanfe basin in full view of the Dents du Midi where the night is spent at the Auberge de Salanfe.
Day 3: This third stage is similar to the first day’s trek on the Tour du Ruan, in that it begins at Salanfe and finishes at the Vieux Emosson refuge. However, after crossing Col d’Emaney, our route descends into the head of the Vallon d’Emaney, then goes for the more direct Col de Barberine instead of Col de Fenestral, and descends to Lac d’Emosson with the Mont Blanc massif in view for much of the way. After crossing the dam at its southern end, the way then follows the narrow service road up to Refuge Vieux Emosson (5½–6hrs).
Day 4: Skirting the shore of Lac du Vieux Emosson, the continuing Tour de la Vallée du Trient is a 4hr stage that visits the site of the dinosaur footprints. It then crosses the 2645m Col de la Terrasse and descends past the Chalets de Loria to Vallorcine, the first village on the French side of the border.
Day 5: Leaving Vallorcine for the final stage of the trek, begin by following the cog railway upvalley towards Col des Montets, then break out of the valley with a 600m climb to the grass saddle of Col des Posettes with its big view of the Aiguilles du Chardonnet and Argentière, Verte and Drus, and of Mont Blanc itself. The way then loops round to Col de Balme to re-enter Swiss territory, but instead of plunging straight down into the Vallée du Trient, it adopts the path that remains high before cutting round the Remointse spur to Refuge Les Grands. From here you descend to the valley below the Trient glacier, cross the glacial torrent and finish the trek by a gentle stroll alongside the Bisse du Trient that leads directly to Col de la Forclaz (a 5½–6hr stage).
ACCESS, BASES, MAPS AND GUIDES
Access
Val de Morgins By minor road west of Monthey in the Rhône valley. By train from Aigle or Monthey to Troistorrents, then bus to Morgins.
Val d’Illiez As for Val de Morgins, but branch left at Troistorrents. By train from Aigle or Monthey to Champéry.
Vallon de Susanfe On foot from Champéry or the Salanfe basin.
Rhône Valley By train from Geneva to Monthey or St-Maurice via Lausanne. The postbus runs a service from St-Maurice to Mex and Vérrosaz.
Vallée du Trient By train (Mont Blanc Express) from Martigny through the Trient gorges to Finhaut and Le Châtelard on the French border. By bus from Martigny to Col de la Forclaz, Trient and Le Châtelard.
Valley Bases
Val de Morgins Morgins
Val d’Illiez Troistorrents, Val d’Illiez, Champéry
Vallon de Susanfe Cabane de Susanfe
Rhône Valley St-Maurice, Mex
Vallée du Trient Salvan, Les Marecottes, Finhaut, Trient, Col de la Forclaz
Information
Chablais Tourisme SA, Case postale 1429, CH-1870 Monthey 2 (Tel 024 471 12 12 info@chablais.info www.chablais.info)
Huts
Several huts, both staffed and unmanned, are situated in the main areas described, as mentioned in the text. Most of these belong to the SAC, although some are privately owned. In addition, a few mountain inns with low-priced dormitory accommodation may be found in secluded locations.
Maps
For planning purposes Kümmerly + Frey publish a useful Wanderkarte at 1:60,000: Grand-St-Bernard, Dents du Midi–Les Diablerets
The Swiss National Survey (Cartes Nationales de la Suisse) cover the same area at 1:50,000 with sheets 272 St-Maurice and 282 Martigny and at 1:25,000 with sheets 1284 Monthey, 1304 Val d’Illiez, 1324 Barberine, 1325 Sembrancher and 1344 Col de Balme
Walking and/or Trekking Guides
Randonnées en montagne – Chablais et Valais francophone by Philippe Metzker (SAC)
Trekking in the Alps by Kev Reynolds (Cicerone, 2011)
Trekking & Climbing in the Western Alps by Hilary Sharp (New Holland, 2002)
Snowshoeing: Mont Blanc & the Western Alps by Hilary Sharp (Cicerone, 2002)
Climbing Guides
Dents du Midi (West Col, 1967 – long out of print)
Chaîne franco-suisse (SAC, 2003)
Guide du Valais: Du Trient au Nufenen
Klettersteig Schweiz by Iris Kürschner (Bergverlag Rother, Munich, 2004)
See Also
Freie Sicht aufs Gipfelmeer by Marco Volken and Remo Kundert (Salvioni Edizioni, Bellinzona, 2003)
Walking in the Alps by Kev Reynolds (Cicerone, 2nd edition 2005)
