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INTRODUCTION

Up there in the sky, to which only clouds belong and birds and the last trembling colours of pure light, they stood fast and hard; not moving as do the things of the sky … These, the great Alps, seen thus, link one in some way to one’s immortality.

Hilaire Belloc, The Path to Rome

After the Mont Blanc range the Swiss Alps contain the highest and most spectacular mountains in Western Europe, as well as the longest glacier, the greatest number of 4000m summits, and numerous other peaks on which the foundations of alpinism were forged. The 1786 ascent of Mont Blanc by Paccard and Balmat may have signalled the beginnings of alpine interest and activity under a veil of scientific enquiry, but in the same decade the Benedictine monk Father Placidus à Spescha was busy climbing and exploring the Glarner and Adula Alps with an undisguised passion for mountains and mountaineering that is now shared by tens of thousands of visitors who flock to Switzerland in summer and winter alike.

With their rich variety of massifs, their snowpeaks and immense rock faces, their glaciers, lakes and waterfalls, their forests, flower meadows and pastures, the Swiss Alps may justifiably claim to be the quintessential Alps, a love of which is not confined simply to those who walk, climb or ski among them, but also shared by the frail and elderly and those content simply to sit and gaze in wonder. Yet thanks to its mountains, more than a century after Leslie Stephen coined the phrase, Switzerland remains for many the playground of Europe.

The Alps are without question the best known of all the world’s mountains, and those that tower over the valleys of Switzerland count among the most easily recognised by both connoisseur and layman alike. The Matterhorn instantly comes to mind, but it is not the only one, for Eiger, Mönch and Jungfrau are symbolic of the Oberland, and the graceful buttresses of Piz Palü in the Bernina range, for example, are depicted on calendar and chocolate box with as much frequency as the proverbial edelweiss and flower-hung chalet. Yet familiarity with such mountains should not breed contempt, for the beauty of the Swiss Alps remains a perennial gift for all to admire.

The Ried glacier hangs above the tiny village of Gasenried (Chapter 2:10)

Mountains make up over 60 per cent of this small landlocked country. With an area of just 41,285 square kilometres, small it may be, but if it were rolled out flat it would be enormous! The landscape, being at once abrupt, dramatic and sublime, is what makes Switzerland so appealing, and while the Pennine and Bernese Alps remain the principal focus of attention for the general tourist as well as for climber, skier and hillwalker, elsewhere the Bernina, Uri and Glarner Alps, the Lepontines, Adula, Silvretta and Rätikon – to name but a few – host a great number of compelling summits that remain unknown to all but a relative handful of enthusiasts.

About this Book

This book sets out to redress the balance, to introduce those who have not yet found them to some of the unfamiliar and largely unsung mountains and valleys, while still giving due regard to the giants that dominate the landscape at Zermatt, Grindelwald or Pontresina. It’s a handy resource for the active hillwalker, trekker, climber and ski tourer; a guide and gazetteer to the peaks, passes and valleys, providing sufficient background information to help anyone planning a visit to make the most of their time there. Questions such as ‘Where to walk, climb or ski?’, ‘What multi-day treks are available and where do they go?’, ‘Where are the mountain huts, what are their facilities, which peaks do they serve?’, and ‘Where are the most suitable valley bases?’ – all these and more are addressed in detail.

This book does not give detailed route directions but information is given about all the guides and maps available for every region under review. The aim of this volume is not to lead step by step, but to inspire, to entertain and to inform; to show the first-time visitor – and those who have already discovered one or two of its districts – what the Swiss Alps have to offer. The emphasis is on activity; the intention to help the reader gain a quality experience with every visit. In truth the outdoor enthusiast is spoilt for choice, but armed with this guide, it should be possible to make that choice a better informed one.

Val Morteratsch, the original route to Piz Bernina (Chapter 4:4)

Dozens of individual valleys are described, together with the mountains that wall them, with recommendations given for their finest walks, treks and climbs. As such recommendations are purely subjective readers may well take issue with some of the suggestions. That is just how it should be.

Working eastwards across the country, this guide is divided into seven chapters, each devoted to a specific range or group of connecting ranges.

The Mountain Ranges

1: Chablais Alps

A small area located south of the Lake of Geneva (Lac Léman) in Canton Valais, its most emblematic peaks are those of the Dents du Midi. No summit exceeds 3200m, and there’s very little permanent snow and ice, but plenty of rock routes can be found in the lower-to-medium grades. There are lots of good walking opportunities, including multi-day hut-to-hut routes, and downhill skiing is popular around Champéry and Morgins. Despite its close proximity to the Mont Blanc range, the Chablais district has some surprisingly little-trod corners where activists may experience a degree of solitude unknown in several other regions of the Swiss Alps.

2: Pennine Alps

Extending along the Swiss-Italian border from the edge of the Mont Blanc massif to the Simplon Pass, the Pennines boast the largest concentration of 4000m summits in the Alps, including Monte Rosa, Matterhorn, Weisshorn, Dent Blanche and the Dom. Snow and ice climbs abound, and while the ordinary rock routes are not technically difficult, the length of many climbs, and the exposure and sometimes questionable quality of the rock, tends to raise the standard of seriousness. Ski mountaineering is popular, with classic tours like the Haute Route (Mont Blanc to the Matterhorn) being a major attraction. Some of Switzerland’s busiest downhill ski resorts are found here (Verbier, Zermatt, Saas Fee), but there are also many seemingly timeless villages and unspoilt valleys. In summer day walks and hut-to-hut tours make the Pennine Alps a veritable mecca for mountain walkers of all persuasions.

3: Lepontine and Adula Alps

The Lepontine Alps of Canton Ticino (Tessin) rise northeast of the Pennine range between the Simplon Pass and the Lukmanier, where the Adula Alps then continue the line as far as the Splügen Pass. The Lepontines gather round surprisingly remote valleys – perfect for walkers, but less rewarding for the ambitious climber. Glaciers are in short supply and the rock is not always reliable. However, a good number of its peaks would repay a visit by scramblers and first-season alpinists. The highest Adula summit is the 3402m Rheinwaldhorn, while Monte Leone (3553m) and the Ofenhorn (3235m) in the western Lepontines have much to commend them. There are no major resorts, but charming and unspoilt villages provide low-key accommodation in a romantic setting, and the whole area is suffused with the warmth and light of Italy.

4: Bernina, Bregaglia and Albula Alps

In the far southeastern corner of the country these three diverse groups are linked by the Bregaglia and Engadine valleys. In the Bernina massif stands the easternmost 4000m summit (Piz Bernina) among an attractive group of snow- and ice-clad peaks where several classic, traditional routes await the visiting mountaineer. Pontresina is the main centre here. The neighbouring Bregaglia is renowned for its quality granite, and in particular the 800m northeast face of Piz Badile. Carrying the Swiss-Italian border, the Bregaglia is a rock climber’s playground par excellence. By contrast the Albula Alps, which spread along the Engadine’s left flank, have several relatively unknown peaks that form a backdrop to good walking country. Above Zuoz and Madulain the 3418m Piz Kesch is the Albula’s best known summit. Switzerland’s only national park is located on the opposite bank of the Engadine, while some of the country’s most celebrated downhill ski runs are found above St Moritz.

The evening alpenglow on the Grand Combin (Chapter 2:3)

The Grosser Aletschgletscher in the Bernese Alps is the longest glacier in the Alps (Chapter 5:10)

5: Bernese Alps

North of the Rhône valley the Bernese Alps may be slightly lower than the neighbouring Pennines, but they can certainly equal them with opportunities for climber, walker and skier. The western half of the range (St Maurice to the Gemmipass) offers plenty of scope for walkers, and mostly low-altitude climbing up to and slightly above 3000m. The main peaks are Les Diablerets (3210m), Wildhorn (3257m) and Wildstrubel (3243m), the latter renowned for its Plaine Morte glacier. East of the Gemmipass will be found a cluster of 4000m summits, with the imposing 4273m Finsteraarhorn being the highest of them all. Others include the Schreckhorn, Fiescherhorn, Mönch and Jungfrau, while the Eiger falls short by just 30m. Quality rock climbs can be found in most districts, but glaciers are also a major feature. The Grosser Aletschgletscher is the largest in the Alps, but it’s just one of several ice sheets that fill the heart of the range. Not surprisingly ski touring is popular, while Wengen, Mürren and Grindelwald, among others, gather winter crowds for downhill skiing. In summer several excellent hut-to-hut walking tours can be made.

6: Central Swiss Alps

Divided by major road passes, the Alps of Central and Eastern Switzerland are extremely diverse. Immediately to the east of the Bernese Alps, the Dammastock group dominates the neatly contained Urner Oberland, shared between Cantons Bern and Uri. High-standard, but low-altitude rock climbs abound on walls flanking the Göschenertal, the 2981m Salbitschijen being prominent among them. Snow and ice climbs are found at the head of the valley, also above the Furkapass and west of the Susten. North of the Sustenpass the Titlis (3238m) is the main focus of attention for visitors to Engelberg. But elsewhere in this group the Gross and Klein Spannort and Uri-Rotstock each have their own unique appeal. Comparatively easy climbs are the order of the day, although hard routes exist on the massive East Face of the Titlis. Walking is the main activity. On the east side of the Reuss valley the Glarner Alps are subdivided by charming valleys little known to outsiders. A few glaciers and snowfields remain among the highest peaks, but this is a range of mostly easy summits. Best known is the 3614m Tödi, first climbed in 1824, but others with considerable appeal include the Grosse Windgällen, Oberalpstock and Clariden. Ski ascents are not uncommon, and mountain walkers are rewarded with countless opportunities.

7: Silvretta and Rätikon Alps

In the far east of Switzerland these connecting groups share borders with Austria and Liechtenstein, but while the Silvretta is mostly a range of crystalline rock, with small glaciers and snowfields, the Rätikon is limestone and almost completely ice-free. To the northwest the Alpstein massif has the famous 2502m Säntis as its symbolic crown. Low-altitude but high-quality rock climbs can be enjoyed on the nearby Altmann and multi-turreted Kreuzberge. But the best climbing is to be had among the Rätikon’s big walls – Sulzfluh and Kirchlispitzen especially. Reminiscent of the Dolomites, this narrow range bursts from a chaos of boulder and scree, with magnificent rock gardens at their feet. Highest of the Rätikon peaks, the 2964m Schesaplana marks the Swiss-Austrian border. By the normal route it is an easy ascent, while a small glacier is draped on its northwest (Austrian) flank. Larger glaciers remain on the north side of the Silvretta group, where traditional-style ascents and spring ski tours are common. But the range comes into its own for the mountain walker in summer, when tempting hut-to-hut circuits are easy to plan and challenging to put into practice.

The Rätikon is a natural rock garden. Here alpenroses flower below the Kirchlispitzen crags (Chapter 7:3)