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INTRODUCTION

The Mont Blanc massif seen from the Col d’Anterne. The Brévent is in the foreground (photo: Jonathan Williams)

Extending in a huge arc of more than 1000km (620 miles) from the Mediterranean coast near Nice to the low, wooded foothills outside Vienna, the Alps display the full gamut of mountain landscape features. With such a varied panoply of dramatic and spectacular scenery, there’s nothing remotely comparable anywhere else in Europe – maybe in the World – and for two centuries and more walkers, mountaineers and general tourists have been flocking there in increasing numbers, and coming away enriched.

Walking is unquestionably the best method of exploring, and it is the mountain walker for whom journeys in the Alps reveal some of the finest views, the greatest contrasts. This book then is a guide to just 100 walks out of the many thousands possible, with a geographical span that ranges from the Maritime Alps of southern France to the Julians of Slovenia, from Italy’s Gran Paradiso to the little-known Türnitzer Alps of eastern Austria, from the ice-bound giants of the Bernese Oberland to the green rolling Kitzbüheler Alps and the bizarre towers of the Dolomites of South Tirol, the routes having been especially selected in an attempt to show the amazing diversity of this wonderful mountain chain.

There are walks to suit every taste: gentle and undemanding, long and tough, and everything in between. Most of the routes avoid climbing of a technical nature, beyond the odd scramble aided by a fixed rope. Glacier crossings where crevasses lurk for the unwary have also been avoided in the main, although just a small handful of walks stray onto ice in order to reach a distant hut. And it is, of course, the huts which give this collection a unique flavour.

Mountain huts are found right across the Alpine chain and provide a focus for these walks. On some of the outings a hut will be reached in time to have lunch in the dining room, or outside on the terrace with a view, and then return to your valley base. But some are located too far from the valley to make a round-trip in a single day, so one would need to spend a night there. On a few occasions I’ve suggested making a short hut to hut tour, as an introduction to one of the most satisfying methods of spending an active mountain holiday. Some of the huts visited will be familiar to regular Alpine walkers and climbers, but I’ve also included a number that are likely to be unheard of. Each has its particular merit, its own character, and will be worth seeking out.

Mountain Huts

Private hut above Les Contamines (photo: Jonathan Williams)

The Alpine hut system is a tremendous boon to both walkers and climbers. Initially built as simple overnight bases in order to reduce the time mountaineers might need to tackle a chosen peak, a comprehensive series of huts (cabane, capanna, refuge, or rifugio) gradually developed that were of use to mountain walkers too. It is now virtually possible to traverse the Alps from one end to the other using huts throughout.

Most have been built by mountaineering clubs, but there are many – especially in Austria – that are privately-owned but open to all. Accommodation is not cheap, so if it is your intention to stay in a number of them during your holiday, consider joining the British Mountaineering Council (BMC) or an Alpine club to benefit from a discount on each overnight, although meals are not subject to reductions. Note that in Italian huts members should be of the same nationality as the club they belong to in order to benefit from discounts. Addresses are given in Appendix A, but it is worth noting that it is cheaper to join the Austrian Alpine Club, which has a UK branch, whose membership card is accepted for reduced rates in all huts other than those that are privately owned. (Another benefit of AAC membership is that of automatic insurance for mountain rescue, medical treatment and repatriation worldwide.)

Strategically placed, most huts visited in this book are looked after in the summer season by a guardian, or warden, who provides hot meals, snacks and drinks. French huts sometimes have a separate room for self-catering where you can prepare food on your own stove. Meals provided by the guardian are usually served at set times. They may not be haute cuisine, other than by definition of the hut’s altitude, but they are often good and fairly substantial as to quantity – apart from breakfast, that is. In huts owned by the Austrian Alpine Club there’s usually a choice of menu, the cheapest item being the Bergsteigeressen (literally the mountaineer’s meal) which must contain at least 500 calories. It is often possible to buy a jug of boiled water to make your own hot drinks, so it’s worth taking your own tea bags or coffee. A bag of muesli, pre-mixed with milk powder (simply add water), could also be carried to enhance a breakfast that would otherwise be limited to a few meagre slices of bread and jam or cheese.

Sleeping arrangements in huts vary little from one end of the Alps to the other. Dormitory accommodation is the norm. Not in individual youth hostel-type bunks, but on a large communal ‘shelf’ of mattresses with a space allocated by the guardian. Blankets or duvets and pillows are provided, but not bed linen, so it is advisable to carry a sheet sleeping bag (obligatory in AAC huts). There is no segregation of the sexes, and in the more popular buildings in the height of the season these dormitories can become overcrowded and airless. If it’s a climbing hut, expect disturbance in the early pre-dawn darkness as climbers get up to begin their route; at the same time you should be aware of the need for quiet during the evening while others try to get a few hours of sleep before making their 1:00 or 2:00am start. Some huts operate a ‘silent time’ from 10:00pm until 6:00am, while in the larger huts, and this is especially true in Austria, it’s possible for a couple or a family to have a two- or four-bedded room as opposed to sleeping in a communal dormitory – at a higher cost, naturally, but often well worth the price.

Nearly all huts have a supply of slippers, or ‘hut shoes’, stored on racks in the boot room at the entrance. On arrival you should exchange your boots for a pair of these slippers, and leave trekking poles, ice axe and/or crampons on a rack too. It’s unacceptable to take these into the hut’s communal rooms, whether you plan to stay overnight or just call in for a bowl of soup in the middle of the day. In some huts rucksacks are banned beyond the boot room, and in such cases a basket is usually supplied in which you place your essentials to carry into the hut proper.

The ambience of a hut often depends as much on the sociability of the guardian as on other users. The best are hospitable and friendly, who tend their hut with care, and have a deep love of the surrounding mountains. Most are knowledgable with regard to the condition of onward routes, and their advice can be usefully sought. Some are known to produce a guitar or accordian and at the drop of a hat will fill the evenings with music. The service they provide is to be appreciated.

Except in the more remote and little-known regions (some of which are included in this book) it will be rare indeed to have a hut to yourself. In the height of the summer season, or at weekends, a number of huts will be fully booked, and it is essential to make a phone call in advance should it be your intention to stay. Telephone numbers are given with the walk descriptions.

Monte Rosa, from the terrace of the Hörnli Hut on the Matterhorn (Walk 28)

Walking in the Alps

Above Jüngen the view takes in the whole eastern side of the Mattertäl with the Nadelhorn, Dom and Tasch (photo: Jonathan Williams)

The key to a successful walking holiday in the Alps lies in preparation. To gain the most from such a holiday it is important to get fit before leaving home, then you’ll enjoy each day’s exercise, from first to last. Alpine walking can be demanding, so don’t be over ambitious as soon as you arrive, but instead gradually increase distance and height-gain as the holiday progresses. Acclimatisation to altitude varies from one person to another. Unless you attempt to climb one of the 4000m peaks during the first few days of your holiday, it’s unlikely that you’ll notice much change, although some may be a little breathless above 1800m or so even when walking on the flat. Headaches and loss of appetite may be experienced, but these should disappear as you acclimatise. First-time visitors to the Alps sometimes find the sheer scale of the mountains intimidating, but this will soon pass as you become accustomed to wandering amongst them.

Choosing the right footwear to take is of prime importance. Good walking boots will be needed on practically every hut approach described in these pages. Anything less and you’re bound to regret it. Trekking poles are now used throughout the Alps and are recommended, for they ease the strain on knees and thighs, especially when tackling steep descents, and have a beneficial long-term effect. On multi-day routes they are almost indispensable.

When planning your day’s walk read the route description beforehand and study the map so you can follow the route upon it and thereby gain an idea of what to expect. Although an estimated time is given at the head of each walk described, be aware that this is walking time only and you should therefore allow extra for rests, photography and delays. Plan your walk so as to reach your destination (be it the hut or return to the valley) with daylight to spare.

Check the weather forecast before setting out. The larger resorts usually have a guides bureau which displays a forecast, as do some of the tourist offices. Otherwise enquire at your hotel, hostel or campsite. If staying at a hut, the guardian will be able to give you an official forecast. Once you’ve set off keep alert for changes in the weather; in the mountains such changes can occur rapidly, so be prepared by taking appropriate clothing with you – see Appendix B for recommendations. Remember that a gentle valley breeze may be a piercing wind just 300m (1000ft) up the hillside, and as you wander higher so the weather intensifies, and when the sun goes behind a cloud the temperature can drop alarmingly. As a general guide, the temperature drops about 6°C for every 1000m of ascent. Should the weather deteriorate, or the route become hazardous, don’t be too proud to turn back. Carry some food and a litre of liquid per person, also a map and compass – and know how to use them. A first-aid kit, whistle and torch should be included in the rucksack.

Leave details of your planned route and expected time of return with a responsible person. When staying in a mountain hut always make a point of writing your name and route details in the book provided. This information enables the authorities to plot your movements in the event of an accident. Be insured, for mountain rescue in the Alps, whilst highly organised, is very expensive.

Most walks described in this book follow established routes along marked trails, but on occasion wild terrain is encountered when extra caution should be adopted. Some routes are on trails safeguarded in places with fixed ropes, chains or cables. Although you may feel confident on these sections, the safeguards have been provided for very good reasons, so take care. Be vigilant when crossing mountain streams, exposed rocks or snow, and don’t stray onto glaciers unless you have first learned the special techniques necessary for safe travel, or are in company with others experienced in glacier travel and with equipment to deal with crevasse rescue. Avoid icefalls and hanging glaciers, and be careful not to knock stones onto anyone who happens to be below.

Paths and Waymarks

Mountains have always been seen as obstacles to communication, and throughout the Alpine chain for centuries the only way for most people to journey from one valley to the next was to walk, often over difficult or dangerous terrain. Routes taken by generations of farmers, hunters and traders going about their daily business steadily developed into a network of trails that have been adopted by today’s recreational walker and climber. This network now forms a basic grid from which many more paths have sprung. Some have been created by official footpath organisations, like the Swiss Footpath Protection Association (Schweizerische Arbeitsgemeinschaft für Wanderwege), others by members of a mountaineering club in order to reach a hut, or the base of a popular climb.

With increased popularity in mountain walking, local communes in many Alpine regions have taken it upon themselves to improve and expand these footpaths further, to waymark and place signposts at strategic junctions, while other groups have added fixed rope safeguards in areas of potential danger. Some of these ‘improvements’ do little to enhance the mountain environment, but fortunately there is still a lot of wild country left, where activists need to use judgment and mountain sense.

Since many of the huts visited in this book are situated in fairly remote locations, walkers ought to be familiar with basic navigational procedures before tackling some of the longer routes described. Most waymarks in the Alpine ranges consist of paint flashes (usually red and white bands) on rocks, trees, posts or buildings. In the French Alps a number is sometimes added, which refers to a GR (Grande Randonnée) route. Signposts, where they appear, usually convey basic information, while in Switzerland yellow metal signposts appear at many trail junctions. These bear a central white plate which records the name of that junction and the altitude, while the finger pointers give the name or names of landmarks or villages and an estimate of the time it will take to walk there. In the Gran Paradiso National Park in Italy waymarks are often yellow; in Austria there are also yellow and black bands, as well as red and white. Numbers are frequently painted on Austrian waymarks, but these do not always agree with route numbers marked on some of the maps, so confusion can arise. In Slovenia waymarks are in the form of a red circle with a white centre.

Safety in the Mountains

It may be that one day, despite having received a positive forecast, the weather turns nasty when you’re still far from your destination, and a storm breaks. In such instances, stay clear of metallic fixtures and dispose of any metal objects you have with you (ice axe, trekking pole etc) which can be retrieved later when the storm abates. Keep away from ridges and prominent features that stand above open ground. Do not shelter beneath over-hanging rocks or trees, and should you be caught in high open country, squat or curl up on your rucksack (assuming it does not have a metal frame) so as not to attract the lightning.

In the unfortunate event of an accident, stay calm. If your party is large enough to send for help while someone remains with the patient, make a careful written note of the precise location where the victim can be found. Should there be a mountain hut or farm nearby, seek assistance there. If valley habitation is nearer, find a telephone and call for help. Emergency numbers are usually prominently displayed. (See the Mountain Safety box for more information.)

The Alpine Environment

Concern for the mountain environment through which you walk ought to be second nature, but a few pointers are worth noting.

 Alpine flowers are to be appreciated, but not picked. Many are protected by law, but even those that are not specifically listed should be left for others to enjoy.

 Wildlife should not be disturbed.

 Leave no litter, but take your rubbish back to the valley for proper disposal.

 Take care not to foul water supplies.

 Make no unnecessary noise.

 Light no fires.

 Don’t take shortcuts on mountain paths, for this can damage the soil and add to problems of erosion.

Recommended Maps and Guides

Maps

At the head of each walk description a note is given in regard to the map or maps recommended for that particular route. These are mostly at a scale of either 1:25,000 or 1:50,000, with a few at 1:30,000 or 1:40,000, depending on the publisher responsible. Not all are entirely accurate, although I found each one adequate for the walker’s needs.

The Rando Éditions Cartes de Randonnées sheets recommended for walks in the French Alps are based on maps of the official French survey, l’Institut Geographique National (IGN), with paths, huts, National Park boundaries etc overprinted upon them.

Those suggested for use in the Swiss Alps and marked with the initials LS are by the Swiss National Survey, Landeskarte der Schweiz. A few Wanderkarte are also noted; some of these are produced by local tourist authorities under licence, others published by Kümmerley and Frey with easy-to-read routes and hut details etc overprinted on them like those of Rando Éditions mentioned above.

Maps published by Kompass for Alpine districts in Austria and Italy often include a booklet giving basic tourist information regarding towns and villages which appear on specific sheets, as well as hut details and walks suggestions.

All these maps should be obtainable from Stanfords in London, who operate a mail order service, or from The Map Shop in Upton-upon-Severn. (See Appendix A.)

Guides

In the introductory essay to each Alpine country, a selection of guidebooks is given, for as the present collection of walks covers the length of the Alps and concentrates on hut routes, there will be countless possibilities left for walkers to explore elsewhere that simply could not be covered in this book. So for each district, or mountain group, visited within these pages, I have given a note of those English-language guidebooks that cover the same area. Most of these are produced by Cicerone, but a few others are published by West Col, Cordee or Inghams. Again, addresses are given in Appendix A.

Using this Guide

The Weisshorn is an elegant snow pyramid from almost every viewpoint, here seen from the north side of the Rhône valley (photo: Jonathan Williams)

The layout of this guidebook is such that walks are grouped, first under the individual country, then under specific Alpine districts. At the beginning of each country’s selection of walks, a short essay is given which summarises the character of the mountain districts under that country’s heading, together with a note of other guidebooks that could usefully be employed for further exploration – as mentioned above.

As for the walks themselves, basic information is given at the head of the page, followed by a brief outline of what to expect, then the route description which culminates in specific details in regard to the hut, including the telephone number which could be useful if it is your intention to stay overnight.

Distances are given in kilometres, and heights in metres. To convert kilometres to miles, divide the distance given by 1.6; for metres to feet, multiply the amount by 3 and add 10 per cent. These details are mostly taken from the recommended maps, but where these are not shown I have used an altimeter. In attempting to measure distances walked I have made the best estimate I could from cartographic readings. With numerous zigzags it’s impossible to be exact.

Times quoted are approximations too. They make no allowances for rest stops or photographic interruptions, but are based simply on actual walking time. Inevitably they will be considered slow by some walkers, fast by others, but are offered as an aid to planning.

In route descriptions, ‘left’ and ‘right’ refer to the direction of travel, whether in ascent or descent. However, when used to describe the bank of a stream or glacier, ‘left’ and ‘right’ indicate the direction of flow, ie: downhill. Where doubts might occur a compass direction is also given.

The sketch maps which accompany each walk are based on the recommended mapping sheet quoted, and are offered as a route outline for orientation. They are not an alternative to a real map.

Finally, all the route and hut information contained in this book is given in good faith and in the firm hope that those who follow will gain as much enjoyment as I have, on the individual walks and in the actual huts visited. But I am fully aware that changes do occur from time to time, both to the landscape and to mountain huts, and it may be that you will discover paths that have been rerouted and certain landmarks altered. Huts may be improved, enlarged or rebuilt; some quoted as having no resident guardian may one day be fully staffed. Conversely, one or two that are manned today, with meals provided for visitors, may become less popular so there’s no guardian and self-catering the only option.

Glacier Blanc in the Ecrins Massif (Walk 10)