Читать книгу 100 Hut Walks in the Alps - Kev Reynolds - Страница 13

WALK 1

Refuge de Valmasque (2221m: 7287ft)

Start	Nat. Park entrance (1732m: 5683ft)
Valley base	Casterino or St-Dalmas
Distance	11km (7 miles) round trip
Total ascent	489m (1604ft)
Time	2hrs up, 1½hrs down
Map	Didier Richard 9 ‘Mercantour’ 1:50,000

The Vallée de la Roya, flowing south from Col de Tende, marks the eastern limit of the Maritime Alps. To the west the Mercantour National Park runs against the Franco-Italian border, and within it lies some firstrate walking country. Several huts grouped within a comparatively small area are linked by accessible cols. The first of these is Refuge de Valmasque. Overlooking a small dammed lake at the head of the Valmasque valley, it is reached by a short but interesting walk from a narrow road which projects deep into the mountains from St-Dalmas-de-Tende. Walkers without their own transport can take a twice-daily bus from St-Dalmas railway station as far as Casterino (13km), and begin the walk there – in which case add 5km and a further 1½hrs to the overall route.

About 3km upvalley from the hamlet of Casterino, the narrow jeep road forks at the entrance to the Mercantour National Park; vehicles should be parked here. At this point wander along a stony track, signposted to Refuge de Valmasque, soon looking steeply down to the Valmasque stream. Green mountains on the north side of the valley rise to the Italian frontier, while the track rises gently among larch, rowan and alder and curves south-west towards wilder country marked by jagged, rocky peaks. After about 40mins an alternative path slants off right ahead to explore Lac de l’Agnel. We remain on the track for a further 15mins to reach a barrier (2027m).

Supply mule on its way to Refuge de Valmasque

Now take a narrow path rising on the left. At first steeply, the angle soon eases across a small pasture with a fine stream flowing through. The path accompanies this stream upvalley, then rises to a higher level and crosses the stream below a cascade. At a junction of paths take the upper option and eventually gain a high, rocky terrace where you traverse to the right (north). The trail forks; the left branch leads to the Baisse de Valmasque via Lac Noir and Lac du Basto, the right-hand option is marked to the refuge. This latter trail contours over a hillside of bald slabs, passes a ruin, climbs a little to a second ruin, now with the hut in sight, and slopes down to the small barrage at the eastern end of Lac Vert. The hut is perched on a rocky knoll on the far side overlooking a wild and rocky landscape dominated by Cime Montolivo, Cime Chamineye, and Cime Lusiere. Above the latter rises the cone of Mont Clapier.

Refuge de Valmasque belongs to the CAF (Section Nice). It has 54 places and a guardian is in residence from mid-June to the end of September; meals available. (Tel CAF, Nice: 04 92 31 91 20).

Unless your plan is to make a cross-country journey to Refuge des Merveilles (see Walk 2), return by the same path as the upward route. Allow 1½hrs to the roadhead.