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THE FRENCH ALPS

A distant view of the Pennine Alps in Switzerland taken from the north side of Lac Léman 80km away (photo: Jonathan Williams)

The Alps of France extend roughly northward from the Mediterranean, running parallel with the Italian frontier, and culminating in the Mont Blanc massif where the borders of France, Italy and Switzerland coincide on the summit of Mont Dolent. Each of the mountain groups has its own distinctive appeal, its own scenic dimension that gives it a unique quality. The bare stony peaks of the Maritime Alps are very different, for example, from the bold snow- and ice-draped peaks of the Massif des Écrins; the tarn-dazzling pasturelands of the Vanoise in direct contrast to the aiguille-guarded Mont Blanc range, yet each will repay the explorations of the mountain walker. The GR5 makes an epic traverse of the French Alps from Lake Geneva to the Mediterranean – see The GR5 Trail by Paddy Dillon (Cicerone Press).

THE MARITIME ALPS

Rising behind Nice at the southwestern end of the whole Alpine range, the Maritime Alps have no permanent snowfields, and few summits rise much above 3000m. With deep valleys and surprisingly tortuous road passes linking one with another, picturesque medieval villages appear to hang suspended from gorge walls, or are perched on the top of remote and seemingly inaccessible crags. Many of the inner valleys are uninhabited, save for the occasional mountain hut which entices walkers to explore, and a number of splendid tarns lie scattered among the upper pastures. Since 1979 a large section of the Maritime Alps has been set aside as the Mercantour National Park. Although popular among local walkers and climbers, very few English-speaking enthusiasts stray into these mountains.

Guidebooks:Mercantour Park by Robin Collomb (West Col), Walking the Alpine Parks of France & Northwest Italy by Marcia R Lieberman (Cordee/The Mountaineers), Walks and Treks in the Maritime Alps by Gillian Price (Cicerone Press).

DAUPHINÉ ALPS

This extensive region includes several mountain groups, among them the Queyras and Massif des Écrins. The first of these forms part of the Cottian Alps which border the northernmost hills and mountains of the Maritime Alps. Again, few English-speaking activists are seen here, other than walkers tackling the multi-day Tour du Queyras, but the lush inner glens are very fine, while many of the peaks, though little-known to any but the most avid of mountain buffs, are excitingly attractive. Only one Queyras hut walk is included here, but with Monte Viso in sight for much of the way, that will provide a good hint of what the area has to offer. As for the Massif des Écrins, this dramatic block of high mountains is situated northwest of the Queyras. Boasting the southernmost 4000m summit in the Alps (Barre des Écrins: 4102m), this compact yet complex group, with huts in amazing locations, reveals some unforgettable scenery.

Guidebooks:Tour of the Queyras by Alan Castle (Cicerone Press), Tour of the Oisans by Kev Reynolds (Cicerone Press), Walking the Alpine Parks of France & Northwest Italy by Marcia R Lieberman (Cordee/ The Mountaineers), Écrins National Park – a Walker’s Guide by Kev Reynolds (Cicerone Press).

GRAIAN ALPS

Wedged between the Dauphiné Alps and the Mont Blanc range, the Graian Alps have at their hub the Vanoise National Park – a glorious region of glacier peaks reflected in a wealth of dazzling mountain tarns. This is walking country par excellence. In the early summer the high meadows are ablaze with flowers. Chamois, ibex and marmots are seen almost daily, and there’s a good selection of mountain huts, many of which are owned by the National Park authorities. Although day walks are possible on the periphery, the most rewarding way of getting to know the Vanoise is by making a hut to hut tour of the region. Several possibilities exist, of varying lengths and degrees of difficulty.

Guidebooks:Walking in the Tarentaise & Beaufortain Alps by J W Akitt (Cicerone Press), Walking the Alpine Parks of France & Northwest Italy by Marcia R Lieberman (Cordee/The Mountaineers), Tour of the Vanoise by Kev Reynolds (Cicerone Press), Mountain Adventures in the Maurienne by Andy Hodges (Cicerone Press).

THE MONT BLANC RANGE

With Chamonix at its base, the Mont Blanc range is understandably the busiest of all the mountain regions of France. Scenically dramatic, all the ingredients of an Alpine landscape are gathered here in abundance – towering aiguilles, huge snow domes, rock slabs, screes, glaciers, waterfalls, flower-starred pastures, forests and lush green valleys. Shared between France, Italy and Switzerland the Mont Blanc massif is surrounded by seven valleys, the linking of each providing the route of the classic Tour du Mont Blanc. But numerous possibilities exist for day walks, and just a small selection of hut routes are offered here.

Guidebooks:Mont Blanc Walks and Chamonix Mountain Adventures by Hilary Sharp and Tour of Mont Blanc by Kev Reynolds (published by Cicerone Press).

Col de la Croix du Bonhomme (Walk 18)