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ОглавлениеBegawan Giri Estate Sayan
There ought to be a warning sign at the entrance to Begawan Giri Estate reading: "Begawan causes total bliss-out. Beware." My advice? Take precautions before you leave home: Don't pack books, laptops, telephone numbers, fancy clothes and makeup. Take only yourself, an open mind and a sarong. On arrival, just give yourself up to the place; don't fight it. The trick is total submission.
So how? Indeed, why? These are difficult questions to answer, because the magic of Begawan lies in simply being. But if push comes to shove, I'd say it's because it has elevated the concept of service to an art form in an environment that combines wilderness with refinement. Because the 9 hectares (22 acres) of land comprise a "private estate" rather than a "hotel." Because the warmth of the staff comes from an inner radiance rather than from a learnt code of conduct. Because, once you immerse yourself in the place, you're freed from the normal constraints of a normal hotel—and you can simply be.
If this sounds a bit new agey, it isn't. "First and foremost, Begawan Giri is a home," declares founder Bradley Gardner, "albeit an extremely luxurious one. That's why it's called a private estate, not a hotel." And it pushes the boundaries of hospitality. You, as the guest, are its raison d'etre.
It's as if all the irritating quibbles you have about hotels have been erased. For a start, if you're flying into Denpasar, a representative meets you before immigration and fast tracks you through customs and out the airport. When you arrive at the estate, a private butler deals with your passport formalities; he or she unpacks, packs, feeds, clothes, even breathes for you if necessary. You soon discover that you don't have to bother with signing after you have a meal or a drink; your order is just discreetly added to your bill. You don't pay extra for any of the generous quantities of mineral water left at strategic points in your residence. If you want a special request food-wise, nothing is too much trouble. The air-conditioning is virtually silent; in fact there is no sound of generators, buggies or any machinery. If you want a bath, boiling hot water tumbles out of a bamboo tap into a huge six-ton carved-in-situ rock bathtub. If you want a swim, crystal clear spring-fed pools beckon.
Such are the small details. The bigger picture encompasses, and surpasses, them—if it were possible. Begawan Giri's 22 suites housed in five highly individual residences along with some newer villas are scattered on a precipitous swathe of land above the revered Ayung River outside Ubud. Designed by Malaysian-born architect Cheong Yew Kuan, they overlook a mystical panorama of gorge, rice field and tropical vegetation. At the Estate's heart are a trio of streams, a sacred spring and a cluster of rock pools. The benevolent sounds of water, birdsong and breeze in the trees are a constant. Be it in a glimpse of water tumbling over boulders in the gorge, the flit of a flamboyant butterfly's wing or the unfurling frond of a giant tree fern, the environment soothes, calms and restores.
"Conceiving and building the estate was like climbing up a glacier with my finger nails," remarked Bradley. He and his wife bought the site in 1989, but didn't really know what they were going to do with it. It was only after they "sat the land"—all the while meditating, planning and planting over 2,000 hardwood trees—that they began to get an inkling of what was to come. First came work on the outdoor spa; water was harnessed into natural pools, decking laid and simple outdoor balés built. Then Yew Kuan's extraordinary vision as to where and how buildings could be situated was incorporated, and as the gardens matured so did the nuts and bolts of the resort. The years passed, the trees pushed upward, paths were laid, and form and beauty were conferred on what was already tantamount to a Garden of Eden.
Today, Begawan Giri Estate is part of Como Hotels & Resorts' portfolio. Como's mission is "to create bespoke retreats where discerning travelers can connect to the spirit of an unspoilt and precious destination," so Begawan complements its other resort properties (including Uma Ubud featured on pages 48-53) admirably. Its acknowledgement of cultural context, a sensitive aesthetic and plans to incorporate a Shambhala spa are now part of the bigger picture.
Even though the resort has the highest in the world guest to staff ratio, the cuisine is superb, the spa is healing and nurturing, the architecture is to die for—it is the natural environment that captures the heart. Succumb to its beauty, let it touch you, reflect, restore and rejuvenate. You won't regret it. Because even though Begawan's strap line is "a vow to return often," it could be a once in a lifetime experience.
P O Box 54, Ubud 80570, Bali, Indonesia.
tel: +62 361 978 888
fax: +62 361 978 889
reservations@begawan.com
