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Uma Ubud Campuhan

The word "uma" translates as "living house" in Bahasa, the Indonesian national language. Significantly it also means "light" in Sanskrit and is an alternative name of the Hindu goddess Parvati. The word is associated with Buddhist philosophy too. With such credentials, it is an apt name for the new line of inland retreat-style hotels launched by Christina Ong's Como group.

Presently, there are two Uma hotels—this one in Bali and a second one in Bhutan. It is no coincidence that they are located in culturally rich spiritual heart-lands, as their intention is to "immerse guests in the textural richness of the resort's carefully chosen region—from culture to religion and landscape—offering the dual experience of escape and adventure." This experience is furthered at both resorts by expansive Shambhala spas where yoga and other programs are offered, an inspiring range of excursions and an uplifting natural environment.

The atmosphere at Uma Ubud is in keeping with this aim. Quiet and secluded, it is situated outside the town on a steep site overlooking the divine Campuhan valley. A celestial vista of rice paddy, coconut palm and river gorge is to be had from most parts of the resort; within, tropical planting, a restrained building ethic and comfortable, but stylish, interiors predominate. This is Bali at its best. The traffic-clogged streets and conspicuous consumerism of the south is far away; art flourishes, as does a thriving culture complete with ritual, dance performances, theater and temple attendance.

Built along the lines of a traditional Balinese village in the hills, Uma Ubud aims to be both ecologically sound and culturally appropriate to setting. Buildings are simple: using wood, alang-alang and local stone, the landscape is generously given center stage. Interiors, likewise, are pared-down. Japanese designer Koichiro Ikebuchi of the Ikebuchi Atelier blends a Zen simplicity with natural materials, all the while harnessing light and air flows in the rooms. Public buildings are similarly tranquil, yet modish. This is a more ascetic design than that found at other Como hotels and resorts, but it is entirely in keeping with the mind/body/spirit ethos of the Uma brand.

The property comprises 29 rooms and suites, three with individual infinity-edge plunge pools. All have garden terraces or private courtyards and facilities include TVs, DVD players, safe, yoga mat and minibar. Some villas have open-air bathrooms that are decadent in their details with custom-crafted tubs, stools covered in poleng (black-and-white check) cloth and floaty mosquito envelope. This isn't as daft as it sounds: the baths are open to the elements, and a protective cover isn't such a bad idea. The fact that they look totally gorgeous is an added bonus.

The hotel prides itself on its local knowledge and local staff. Tailor-made excursions are designed to help visitors appreciate the truly magical milieu they've found themselves in. Bespoke cultural tours include visits to local museums, artists' studios and temples, while courses on a range of activities, including Indonesian batik, puppet making, mask painting and Balinese cookery, can be organized. Special week-long yoga retreats and physical training challenge weeks are offered, as are a range of more activity-oriented excursions: guided walks, mountain biking, volcano runs and whitewater rafting. Each day guests are briefed of any special local events taking place.

This resort is clearly aimed at stressed urbanites desirous of something more than a sun, sea and sand break. If you want to learn a little (nothing too educational though, you understand!), love a little and chill more than a little—this could be just the Indonesian idyll you've been searching for. It isn't really a kids' place, it has to be said, so honeymooners and couples should take note. Whether you are practising yoga in an out-jutting voluminous pavilion or relaxing in the lakeside restaurant, you'll be drinking in vertiginous views over the valley and luxuriating in the power of near-silent stillness. It is a exhilarating combination.

The message at Uma Ubud is about discovery. Forget the coast, forget the traffic, put a block on the mayhem outside the resort walls: spend time with yourself or a loved one, and you may find a bit more. About the island, about the culture—or even about yourself.

Jalan Raya Sanggingan, Banjar Lungsiakan, Kedewatan,

Ubud, Gianyar 80571, Bali, Indonesia.

tel: +62 361 972 448

info.ubud@uma.como.bz

www.uma.como.bz