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ОглавлениеFour Seasons Resort & Spa Sayan
Wallpaper* magazine described this groundbreaking resort outside Ubud as "the hot hotel for the close of the century"—and there is no doubt that it is architecturally unique. Daring, both in terms of its suitability to site and its futuristic design, it is a love it or hate it sort of place. One thing you can't do, however, is ignore it.
Designed in the late 1990s by the studio of Malaysian-born British architect, John Heah, the resort is like an inverse high-rise. You enter at the top via a 55-meter (180-foot) elevated teak-and-steel walkway from the Sayan ridge, and proceed down through five floors of a monumental elliptical structure to the valley floor. Each level affords breathtaking views across valley, gorge, river and rice field, in an ever-descending, heady spiral. Once grounded, 28 villas scattered amongst imaginative gardens, continue the downward trend. Access to these is via a balé on the roof, from where a circular staircase leads down to the rooms; emerging one floor down onto a patio, it is down some stairs again to the Ayung River's edge.
Extremely controversial during construction (after all is a five-story flying saucer-shaped structure really appropriate in a pristine and sacred river valley?), the hotel has weathered over time. Natural ivory-toned cladding has acquired an attractive darker patina, the gardens and paddy fields have grown in, and the extremely strong architectural presence of the main building is no longer so starkly visible from the surrounding vegetation. A plethora of water features—a massive lotus and lily pond on the entrance roof, ponds on the villa roofs, a number of plunge pools, inclined walls oozing moss and water lining the corridors, and a freeform, double-level riverside swimming pool—further help the buildings merge into the landscape.
The architect clearly liked to juxtapose natural and man-made materials. The stunning central atrium building which houses the lobby, bar, restaurant, spa and fitness center, and has suites radiating from it, is as dramatic for its views as it is for its architecture. Sitting in the Jati Bar where an extensive wine cellar helps to lubricate and relax guests, looking out between stone columns over a panoramic jungle vista is about as good as it gets. Similarly on ground level the villas are interspersed amongst paddy fields and vegetable plots, rather than in manicured tropical gardens.
There are a number of accommodation options, both in the main building off mossy walkways and in villas. A batch of 14 stand-alone villas above the entrance-way is a newer addition. Designed by Cheong Yew Kuan, they are more mini-houses than villas, and would do well for larger groups or families. The valley villas, on the other hand, have easy access to the river and adjacent freeform swimming pool, with a large outside terrace, private plunge pool, and sumptuous bedroom and bathroom. I didn't see many people making use of the lily pond and balé on the roof though. Of the 18 suites in the main block, the nicest are the two-level suites: these are slightly smaller than the other rooms, but because they are split level, they have a bit more character. Double-height windows are an added bonus.
As is the norm in all Four Seasons properties, standards of service are very high. Four Seasons prides itself on its highly personalized, anticipatory service; a recent annual report notes: "Simply put, we treat others—partners, customers, co-workers, everyone—as we would wish them to treat us." This is evident at the Sayan property: members of staff appear to genuinely enjoy working in such an unusual and gorgeous location, and your wish really is their command.
The big bonus, though, is simply being in the heart of Bali: its culture, landscape, religion and mystery is as central to the Four Seasons experience here as is the fast-flowing Ayung River. The Balinese have been dipping into this river to purify, wash and nourish for centuries, and the tradition continues today. Adjacent the property, a vertiginous stairway leads down from the ridge above to the valley floor, and local people continue to use this as if there were no tourists, no five-star hotel, no modern architectural edifice in sight. Offerings are laid at the water's edge and in the five temple shrines as they have been for eons. Sarong-clad beauties bathe, and small children caper in the shallows. Life's natural cycle continues—a joyous celebration of nature and the gods—and the hotel simply exists within it.
Sayan, Ubud, Gianyar, Bali 84571, Indonesia.
tel: +62 361 977 577
fax: +62 361 977 588
