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Suilven (731m) the ‘suil’ part meaning ‘pillar’, from the Norse sular, the ‘ven’ part meaning ‘mountain’, from the Gaelic bheinn

Start	GR 107 219
Distance	23km (+ 6km road walk if no transport)
Ascent	1170m
Time	7hr
Terrain	This is a long and demanding route. A good approach path gives way to boggier ground and a very steep, rocky ascent. The descent is equally steep, with a long walk out on boggy paths until the good path down the River Kirkaig.
Maps	OS Landranger 15, OS Explorer 442
Access	www.assyntfoundation.org 01571 844100
Getting there	The route starts on the road to Glencanisp Lodge from Lochinver. There is parking just before the public road ends (107 219). If walking from Inverkirkaig back to Lochinver, it would be worth parking in the village itself to avoid a climb at the very end of the day. There are buses to Lochinver from Inverness and Ullapool (www.stagecoachbus.com or contact Traveline Scotland 0871 200 22 33, www.travelinescotland.com).
Something else	Visit the Achins bookshop and cafe at Inverkirkaig (01571 844262) or get one of the best pies in the world at the Lochinver Larder (01571 844356, www.lochinverlarder.co.uk).

Scottish mountains don’t come any more iconic than Suilven. Instantly recognisable, this small but mighty peak rises up as if from nowhere to dramatic effect. A long, classic route with rewards aplenty.

When the Vikings came to their ‘south land’ – Sutherland – they saw Suilven from the sea and named it ‘pillar mountain’, so much did it dominate the landscape. Today geologists refer to it as an inselberg, or island mountain.

Meall Meadhonach from the summit

An isolated peak rising dramatically out of moorland, Suilven is formed of Torridonian Sandstone capped with Cambrian Quartzite. This tougher quartzite cap protected the sandstone beneath during the ice ages, creating the inselberg shape, as the rocks all around were eroded away. The surrounding landscape, worn down to the ancient Lewisian Gneiss that forms the base here, was scoured out to leave hundreds of little lochans and hummocks.

The human history of the area is pretty groundbreaking too. Sitting above the fishing village of Lochinver, Suilven forms part of the Glen Canisp Estate. In an area of Scotland hardest hit by the Highland Clearances, this estate was long held in private hands.

In 1886, the Lochinver branch of the Highland Land League agreed to demand the restoration to the people of the deer forest of Glencanisp ‘where there is plenty of provision for ourselves and our families. It extends twenty-one miles … and the land of our fathers lying waste.’ In 2005, their demand was met.

Suilven – the classic view

The Assynt Foundation, formed by a group of local residents, managed to secure a community buy-out of the Glencanisp Estate and neighbouring Drumrunie Estate, under the 2003 Land Reform Act. The foundation now owns and manages the 44,000 acres, including Suilven, for the benefit of the community and the public, and the sustainable development of the natural environment.

This route on Suilven takes in both Glen Canisp itself and a descent down the beautiful River Kirkaig, passing the stunning 20m cascade of the Falls of Kirkaig.

Route

Starting from the parking area on the road to Glencanisp Lodge, continue along the road and take a left fork to pass behind the lodge. From here head right, the road becoming a gravel track with great views of Suilven and Canisp ahead.

The track divides after 4.5km (147 209) at Suileag. You take the right fork to pass in front of the lovely old wall of a sheiling. This brings you alongside the Abhainn na Clach Airigh, aptly meaning ‘river of the stone sheiling’. The track crosses the river via a bridge just beyond Lochan Buidhe.

From here you climb gently until you reach a cairn, where you turn off the track onto a path to the right (167 196). This is before the second bridge marked on the map. This small path is boggy at first and climbs up a series of shelves in the landscape to come to Loch a’ Coire Dhuibh.

The path takes you round the west side of the loch, between it and some smaller lochans, to reach the base of the climb up to the bealach. The route up is steep and eroding in places, but the zigzags in the path make it reasonably straightforward, and the narrow, airy bealach (at 600m) is soon reached. From here the views south over to Stac Pollaidh and the Inverpolly Estate are breathtaking.

To gain the highest top, Caisteal Liath (‘the grey castle’), follow the path right over a couple of lumps and some exposed sections of ridge before the final climb up some step-like rocks to the summit of Caisteal Liath (731m) (153 183, 10.5km, 3hr30). The top itself is surprisingly large and flat, with stunning 360° views to take in.

To continue, head back to the bealach, then down a path on the other side. This takes you first down a steep scree gully before giving way to a slightly less steep path cutting diagonally down the hillside below crags. A final steep descent down the side of a small gully brings you onto the level by a small burn. Follow the burn to meet a path at the side of Fionn Loch, along which you go right.

The path, very boggy in places, runs the length of Fionn Loch, bending round the northwest end to pass between it and Loch Uidh na Ceardaich. You then double-back on yourself to walk down the other side of the loch. There is a great view back to Suilven here, with Fionn Loch in the foreground. When the path divides, take the right fork, happily cutting a corner to come to the River Kirkaig.

Follow the path down the River Kirkaig, detouring, if you have the energy, to see the beautiful Falls of Kirkaig. The path ends at a small road. Head left along it to reach the main single-track road by the parking area (086 193) (23km, 7hr).

Alternatives

Avoiding the road

Either the Glencanisp or River Kirkaig routes could be used for either approach or return, eliminating the road walk at the end.