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INTRODUCTION

Bourblaige with Ben More on Mull behind

When Sir Hugo Munro compiled a list of mountains in Scotland over 3000ft (914m), back in 1891, it’s unlikely that he would have predicted the enthusiasm that arose for climbing them all. ‘Munro-bagging’, as it’s become known, has fed that part of human nature that loves to collect, to tick off lists and to reach for an ultimate goal. In this case, climbing all 282 of the 3000ft-plus mountains, or Munros, in Scotland.

While this offers a challenge and an opportunity to climb some of the best mountains in the world, the downside is that many of Scotland’s finest mountains are overlooked by walkers, purely because they lack a few metres in height. Yet what they lack in stature, they often more than make up for in other ways. This book champions just some of Scotland’s best smaller mountains, each of which has been selected for its character, location, views, historical significance, technical difficulty or simply its beauty. From the surreal and striking landscape of the Storr in Skye, the pagan festivals of Ben Ledi in the Trossachs, to the imposing and rugged ridges of Quinag in Sutherland, this guide is, in its own way, ‘an antidote to Munro-bagging’.

But neither is this another guide to the Corbetts (2500ft-plus peaks) or the Grahams (2000ft-plus) in Scotland – it is a guide that shuns height altogether as a factor for climbing a mountain. People who climb mountains to tick them off a list, and then do not return, never find out more about the mountain than how to reach its summit. This guide sets out to convey some of the character of the mountain, its history, who lived there and why they left, the wildlife, the flora and the geology. It encourages you to climb a mountain many times, in different seasons, until you know it as you would an old friend.

There is, obviously, a question mark over what a mountain actually is. In England and Wales, a mountain is defined as a landmass over 600m. This fits with other definitions that use 2000ft (610m) as their benchmark. In Scotland, however, there is no such definition and, in keeping with the spirit in which this book is written, no attempt is made to offer one, or to exclude peaks that fall below 2000ft. Few who have gone up the 528m of Ben Hiant from sea level could say it was any less of a climb than the 1245m of the mighty Cairn Gorm, which most climb from a starting point of 625m.

Above all, this guide aims to increase the enjoyment of Scotland’s mountains. Whether you are an avid Munro-bagger (please don’t take offence), an experienced walker, or new to Scotland’s mountains, this book offers something for everyone. While it can’t do anything about Scotland’s weather or midges, it does describe opportunities to get away from it all on mountains that are far less climbed, with the potential for discovering new peaks and new places, and finding out more about the landscape you’re walking in.

There are so many wonderful ‘smaller’ mountains in Scotland that one guide could not possibly attempt to cover them all. This is a selection of some of the best, but by no means exhaustive.

This book divides Scotland into seven areas (see overview map), with routes in each, so that wherever you are, there will be some of Scotland’s best small mountains to explore. The routes range in length and difficulty, so you can easily choose what best suits your experience and plans. Where possible, circular routes are described, and different options are highlighted to increase your choices and make the routes even more interesting.

Walking in Scotland

While Scotland is a relatively small country, the combination of stunning mountains and spectacular coastlines make it one of the best walking destinations in the world. Few other locations offer dramatic rocky ridges that rise up from stunning sandy beaches, and fewer still offer this and the opportunity to get away from it all completely.

As one of the least populated areas in Europe, the Scottish Highlands are one of the last great areas of wilderness. Characterised by remote peaks reached, in some cases, only by single-track roads, or occasionally only on foot, walking in Scotland can be a splendidly secluded experience. Rough footpaths and few waymarks are more than made up for by breathtaking sea views, an eagle soaring overhead, or nothing but the sound of the wind in the trees.

Scotland is home to two national parks – the Cairngorms National Park and the Loch Lomond and the Trossachs National Park – but much of northern and western Scotland is mountainous, offering many more beautiful destinations to choose from.

Wherever you go, water is likely to be a major feature. From the coast and the sea to the many beautiful lochs, lochans, rivers and burns that make up a large part of the Scottish landscape, you are never likely to be far from water. And with many great walks on Scotland’s islands, you even have to cross the sea to reach some of these routes.

Wildlife

Wildlife flourishes in the large areas of mountainous wilderness in Scotland. A walk in the hills could well bring you face to face with a majestic stag and other red deer or a herd of wild goats. High on a mountain plateau you could spot a mountain hare, while you’re more likely to come across red squirrels and pine martens in the more wooded slopes of the glens. Most elusive is the Scottish wildcat.

Scotland being home to over 400 breeding pairs of golden eagles, you may also find one of them soaring above your head. Then there is the white-tailed, or sea, eagle, the UK’s biggest bird of prey, with a wingspan of eight feet (two and a half metres!). Following recent reintroduction of these magnificent creatures, there are now around 40 breeding pairs, with the best chance of seeing them being on Mull, on the Small Isles and in the adjacent west coast hills.

Wild goats

The summit of Beinn Ghoblach with Scoraig peninsula beyond

On the coast there are otters and grey and common seals to spot. Porpoise and bottlenose dolphins are often found in coastal waters too and if you are really lucky you may be able to spot minke whale, basking shark, or even the distinctive black and white form of an orca. Ferry journeys from the mainland to the islands or specialised boat trips offer the best opportunities to spot marine wildlife.

The History of Scotland

Scotland is also rich in both natural and human history. From some of the world’s oldest rocks to some of the most famous battles, the landscape and culture of Scotland has been shaped over the years by both climate and human activities.

The geographical entity that is now Scotland came into being 40 million years ago, when the continents of North America, of which Scotland was a part, and Europe collided. Many of the rocks and landforms that shape Scotland were formed much earlier, however, through the collision of tectonic plates, glaciation and weather. The Lewisian Gneiss rock of the Northwest Highlands that Scotland shares with North America is 3000 million years old.

The human history of Scotland is clearly much more recent but no less turbulent. From the Picts of Caledonia and the formation of the original Alba, then the wars of independence and Viking marauders, to the Jacobite uprisings and the Highland Clearances, people have long fought and died over the hills and glens of Scotland. The Pict, Gaelic, Norse, Scots and English names that pepper the landscape are evidence of the many waves of settlers.

This guide will tell you all about Scotland’s natural and human history as you walk through the landscapes they have formed. Each route reveals something of the people and places, features and events, both past and present, of each of Scotland’s best small mountains. From Rob Roy and Jacobite hideouts to battlefields and abandoned villages, Scotland’s history is out there to discover.

Getting there

Train travel from Europe and the rest of the UK is straightforward via the east- and west-coast mainlines, travelling to Edinburgh and Glasgow respectively. Both lines originate in London, making it easy to connect to and from Eurostar services. For train information within the UK, visit www.thetrainline.com; for Eurostar see www.eurostar.com.

There are ferry services to Scotland from Northern Ireland and Belgium. Stena Line runs a ferry service between Cairnryan in Scotland and Belfast in Northern Ireland (www.stenaline.co.uk), and P&O run services from Cairnryan and Troon to and from Larne in Northern Ireland (www.poferries.com).

There are also many international and national flights to Scotland’s major airports – Glasgow, Edinburgh, Glasgow–Prestwick and Aberdeen. In addition there are a number of national flights to the smaller airports of Inverness and Dundee.

More details of how to reach Scotland from overseas can be found at www.visitscotland.com/travel/to-scotland/overseas.

Getting around

Within Scotland, most places can be reached by public transport, via trains, buses and ferries. Scotland’s train services are operated by Scotrail (www.scotrail.co.uk) with the West Highland line from Glasgow to Mallaig proving particularly useful for accessing the mountains. Most of the ferries to the Scottish islands are operated by Caledonian MacBrayne (www.calmac.co.uk). There are also many bus operators with good services linking Scotland’s major towns and cities and, usually, less frequent services in rural areas. Details of public transport to access the mountains in this guide are given in each route description. For details of public transport options across Scotland see www.travelinescotland.com or call them on 0871 200 22 33.

Given the remoteness of much of the Scottish Highlands, there are some mountains that can only be reached by car. There are car rental agencies at all the major airports, as well as in most large towns and cities.

Accommodation

A wide range of accommodation to suit differing budgets is available in most of the areas covered in this guide, although sometimes it may be a drive or bus journey from an individual route. With tourism such an important part of Scotland’s rural economy, most towns and villages have hotels or guest houses, and there are large numbers of B&Bs and self-catering cottages spread throughout the Highlands. There are also many formal campsites, and responsible wild camping well away from roads is often permitted (if in doubt check with the landowner).

For details of accommodation in Scotland contact the Scottish Tourist Board www.visitscotland.com/accommodation.

Weather

It is fair to say that the Scottish weather does not always enjoy a good reputation! With prevailing westerly winds bringing rain off the Atlantic, the Scottish hills can certainly be wet and blustery places. Low cloud can even lead to some visitors wondering where the hills actually are. That said, on a sunny, clear day, of which there are many, there is no finer place to be and you will appreciate it all the more.

Check the weather forecast before you go and be prepared for the right conditions. Always carry waterproofs and spare warm clothing – even in mid-summer the weather in the mountains can change rapidly and the higher you go the colder it gets. The Mountain Weather Information Service provides good daily mountain forecasts for the different upland regions of Scotland www.mwis.org.uk.

When to go

The routes given in this guide have been described with spring, summer and autumn conditions in mind. While some would provide a pleasant winter excursion, the longer and steeper routes could be very challenging in winter.

The summer school holidays in Scotland are earlier than in England, running from the beginning of July to mid-August. During this period places are busier and accommodation is often more expensive. May, June and September are quieter and often have good spells of weather.

The summer months are also the time of midges, Scotland’s infamous small biting insects. While they are unlikely to bother you on a very sunny or on a very windy day, in damp, still conditions they can become pretty unbearable – thankfully it is often windy on Scotland’s hills! They can also be avoided by visiting in the spring or autumn.

Sgurr an Fhidhleir and Stac Pollaidh from Ben More Coigach

Taking in the view on Sgurr Dhomhnuill

Winter walking

The mountains in winter can be very different places from during the summer. Check route details and conditions carefully in advance, and only venture out if you are confident of your winter walking abilities and have the appropriate equipment including an ice axe and crampons. Make sure you know how to use them.

Plan winter routes taking into account that winter conditions will make routes longer and that the days are much shorter. Always carry a head torch for use in emergencies.

Avalanches are an additional risk in the winter – it is important to check the avalanche forecast www.sais.gov.uk.

Mountain safety

The Scottish mountains can be dangerous places and it is important to be properly equipped and prepared. While this guide covers ‘small’ mountains, they are often in remote and rugged places, and lesser height does not negate the impact of the Scottish weather.

 Wear good walking boots and appropriate clothing, with extra warm and waterproof layers to put on if the weather changes.

 Always ensure you carry a map and compass and know how to use them. Many of the routes in this guide have sections without paths, and even on those that do it is easy to get lost, particularly in bad weather.

 Be sure to leave word with someone of where you are going and when you expect to return, and let them know when you do.

 Carry a first aid kit and a whistle to alert people to your location in an emergency. The internationally recognised distress call is six blasts on a whistle within a minute.

Access

The Land Reform (Scotland) Act 2003 establishes a clear public right to access land in Scotland, meaning that so long as you act responsibly and do not interfere with the rights of the landowner, you are able to walk where you wish in the Scottish mountains.

The main potential access issue for most of the routes in this guide is deer stalking. The red-stag stalking season is from 1 July to 20 October, although the dates on which estates start stalking vary. The season for shooting hinds is from 21 October to 15 February. Roe-deer stalking is less common, but the roe-buck stalking season is from 1 April to 20 October and the doe-stalking season is from 21 October to 31 March.

Even when an estate is stalking, it is unlikely to prevent you walking many of the routes. The best advice is to contact the estate and find out where they will be. Many will post details at main car parks and popular route access points. In general, walkers are advised to stay on paths and ridges during the stalking season. It is worth noting that deer stalking does not take place on Sundays. The Hillphones network provides phone numbers for walkers to call a number of estates. The relevant hillphone and other estates’ phone numbers are given where available in the information box for each route. However, these can change and it is important to check local information where possible.

Near Cunside on the walk in to Ben Loyal

The rocky summit of Beinn Resipol

Looking south across the rocky shoulder of Meallan Diomhain on Cul Mor

Another potential access issue is forestry work, and again the relevant contact numbers are given where available.

Wherever you are walking it is important to follow the Scottish Outdoor Access Code (www.outdooraccess-scotland.com) and to be responsible for yourself and your activities. As they say, leave only footprints and take only memories and photographs.

Using this guide

For each mountain in this guide, one main route is described in detail. Where possible this is a circular route, providing an interesting and enjoyable ascent and descent of the peak, taking in any notable features and landmarks. This is often, but not always, the most popular route up a hill. It is not always the shortest or quickest.

Alternative routes, where they exist, are described in less detail, to give walkers a choice of routes or allow them to construct their own. The distance and ascent of each alternative route is given in brackets at the end of the description. The route descriptions are not designed to be followed without a map, except for armchair planning.

Little Loch Broom

Each route is accompanied by a description of the mountain and the area in which it is located, and a factual information box detailing distance, timing, ascent, difficulty, access, how to get there, grid reference and other nearby attractions and facilities.

Mountain names

The spelling of mountain names and features in this guide is taken from the Ordnance Survey 1:50,000 maps.

Maps

Each route is highlighted on the relevant section of Ordnance Survey’s 1:50,000 maps.

The main route described is shown in orange, then any alternatives are first blue, then green, then pink, where applicable.

The small section of map provided is not a replacement for carrying the relevant OS map. For those who prefer to use the more detailed 1:25,000 maps, the map numbers for these as well as for the 1:50,000 maps are given in the route information box. HARVEY Maps also cover many of the mountain areas in this book – www.harveymaps.co.uk.

Grid references

Grid references (expressed as two groups of three digits) are given for the start and end points, and summits of all the mountains included, as well as for some useful points along the way, particularly where routes lack paths or key landmarks to aid navigation. These are six-figure references based on GPS readings taken by the author while on the routes.

Distance and ascent

Figures given for distance and ascent both refer to the whole route from start to end. This means the level of ascent is often greater than the height of the peak being climbed.

Difficulty

Rather than give any kind of grading of difficulty, the guide provides an overview of the type of terrain, gradient, exposure, length and need for navigation on each route, to allow you to judge for yourself how easy or difficult you will find a route. A very long walk without any exposure may be difficult for some, while a short walk down steep scree is easy, and vice versa. This allows you to match routes to your own skills and confidence.

Times

Timings given for each route are the walking time to complete the whole route. They are based loosely on 4km an hour plus 30 minutes for every 300m of ascent (Naismith’s Rule) and the author’s own timings. They do not include time for breaks, which should be added to give a clearer idea of the length of time needed. A 4hr30 route may appear short, but can easily become a full day out by the time you’ve stopped for lunch and had a couple of breaks.

Getting to routes

Details of the starting point for each route are given in the information box. In the majority of cases these refer to a car park, but where there is none, details of where you can park are given. Information on how to reach a route by public transport, where possible, is also included and while it is hard to reach many of Scotland’s mountains without the use of car, in an age of climate change we should all be encouraged to do so where we can.

Something else

Also in the information box are details of one or two of the best attractions or things to do near the route, with relevant contact details. These attractions range from ruined castles to real ale pubs, and are intended to enhance your enjoyment of your visit to an area, or fill some time while waiting for a train, bus or lift, and are by no means exhaustive. Visiting attractions and facilities in rural areas, rather than just turning up to do a walk and leaving again, also helps the local economy, so you can feel good about yourself while drinking that pint!