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Ben More Coigach (743m) and Sgurr An Fhidhleir (705m) ‘big hill of Coigach’, Coigach coming from the Gaelic coigeach, meaning ‘a fifth share of land’, in this case thought to mean a fifth of the then Cromarties; Sgurr an Fhidhleir translates literally as ‘peak of the fiddler’

Start	GR 061 041
Distance	10km
Ascent	900m
Time	4hr
Terrain	A short route with some steep slopes and exposed sections of ridge. Stretches without paths make for some rough walking and the need for good navigation in poor visibility.
Maps	OS Landranger 15, OS Explorer 439
Access	Ben More Coigach is located in its entirety within the Scottish Wildlife Trust’s reserve. For up-to-date access information, contact 0131 312 7765.
Getting there	Park in a lay-by at Culnacraig, near the very end of the road that passes through Achiltibuie (061 041). There are some buses from Ullapool to Achiltibuie (Traveline Scotland 0871 200 22 33, www.travelinescotland.com).
Something else	Take a boat trip on the Hectoria from Achilitibuie to the seal colonies of the Summer Isles (01571 622200).

Rising dramatically out of the sea, the Ben More Coigach range dominates the Coigach peninsula while remaining fairly unknown to walkers. The great ridge walk combined with some of the best views in the world make for a brilliant day out.

The long ridge to Ben More Coigach

Ben More Coigach is the highest peak on the peninsula that gives it its name. Together with its neighbour and subsidiary peak, Sgurr an Fhidhleir, it forms part of a stunning mountain massif.

Carved out of sandstone by glaciers, the peaks form part of the North West Highland Geopark. The first of its kind in Scotland, the geopark celebrates the unique geology, landscape and communities of the far northwest of Scotland. With the Ben More Coigach ridge dominating the view north from Ullapool, it is easy to see why it is geology to be celebrated.

The ridge ends abruptly, dropping dramatically to the sea, with the spectacular views out to the Summer Isles more famous than the peaks themselves. The Summer Isles, a collection of picturesque islands out to the west, when caught at sunset on a descent from Ben More Coigach and Sgurr an Fhidhleir, offer one of the best vistas there is.

While once widely inhabited by farmers, herring fishermen and even illicit whisky distillers, it is now only Tanera Mor, the largest of the Summer Isles, that still has a few occupants, though it is a very popular destination for day-trippers in the summer months.

History has played its part in shaping the landscape of the Coigach peninsula too. Visited or occupied at various times by Vikings, Bronze Age farmers and Picts, some evidence of these prehistoric settlers remains. Perched on a promontory not far from Ben More’s crags are the remains of the Pictish fort of Dun Canna.

More recently, the settlements of Achiltbuie, Culnacraig and others came into being as people crofted the land and fished off its shores. Perhaps surprisingly, the post office has played a role too. The current 10km path from Blughasary, and a potential route to Ben More Coigach, was formed by a hardy postman delivering the mail to Achiltibuie from Ullapool.

Route

From the car parking area walk left down the road to cross the bridge. Take a small path off to the left just after the bridge to climb steeply northeast (this path looks as if it is used by sheep more than people). At about 280m the path levels out and heads southeast towards Garbh Choireachan and the start of the ridge.

The path divides soon afterwards – go right to continue towards the ridge, contouring southeast still. The path disappears just before the gorge of the Allt nan Coisiche, or ‘walker’s burn’, but bear east along the burn to find a crossing place. Once across, head southeast again towards the end of the ridge. This is ascended on the west side by bearing east all the way to the top and making use of bits of sheep paths. While steep, and on some well-eroded rock, it is never too difficult.

Once on Garbh Choireachan (738m), follow the path along the hugely enjoyable ridge. It sticks to the west side to avoid some rockier sections, though there is the option of scrambling along the very top. This brings you to the summit of Ben More Coigach (743m) (094 042, 4km, 2hr). The view from here over to better-known neighbour Stac Pollaidh is spectacular and unique.

From the summit head northeast briefly until the gradient down to the left lessens, then head north diagonally down across short grass to the bealach (544m).

From the bealach the prominent peak of Sgurr an Fhidhleir (705m) (094 054, 6km, 2hr45) lies ahead. Climb northwest to gain the summit, and stunning views over its precipitous northern edge.

To return, head southeast, picking up a path that runs the length of the shoulder from the summit back to the junction where you originally turned right. This gentle descent allows you to take in the great view out over the sea to the Summer Isles. Once back on the original path, follow it back to the start (4hr, 10km).

Alternatives

One Peak Only

The route could be shortened by climbing either Sgurr an Fhidhleir by the same ascent as the descent, or Ben More Coigach by joining the path from the bealach, missing out the ascent of Sgurr an Fhidhleir (7.5km, 630m former; 8.5km, 710m latter).

Taking in Beinn nan Caorach and Cairn Conmheall

The route could be extended by continuing along the ridge from Sgurr an Fhidhleir to take in the tops of Beinn nan Caorach (649m) and Cairn Conmheall (541m). Rather than heading down the southeast shoulder from Sgurr an Fhidhleir, go southeast briefly then drop northwest to the bealach with the unnamed peak (648m). Ascend this (no paths) then follow the shoulder southwest to Beinn nan Caorach. From there, cross the broad plateau with little further climbing to Cairn Conmheall. Retrace your steps briefly to avoid crags and follow the burn down to the road (12km, 1100m, shown in blue).

Looking out to the Summer Isles from Sgurr an Fhidhleir

From the Northeast, following the Allt Claoniadh

Approach the peaks from the northeast following the Allt Claoniadh on a small path from the end of Loch Lurgainn, past Lochan Tuath, then up steeply to the bealach between Sgurr an Fhidhleir and Ben More Coigach (10km, 400m to/from bealach, shown in green).