Читать книгу The Food of Asia - Kong Foong Ling - Страница 11
ОглавлениеBURMA
The undiscovered treasures of this land of gold and gems are its culinary delicacies.
The weekly floating market at Ywama village, Inle Lake, is a colorful affair.
Burma, "The Land of Gold" of ancient Indian and Chinese manuscripts, has one of the Asia's least known cuisines. This is more a result of the country's long period of self-imposed isolation than the intrinsic quality of the food itself. However, as Burma-or Myanmar as it is now officially called-opens its doors to visitors and international business, more people are discovering its intriguingly different cuisine.
The Land and its People
Burma's beginning dates back some 2,500 years, when Tibeto-Burman-speaking people moved from Tibet and Yunnan into the northern part of the country. Kingdoms rose and fell over the centuries, many different tribes arrived and established themselves. The British gained control over the country little by little, annexing it to British India in stages, until the last king was dethroned in 1886. Burma regained its independence in 1946, becoming a socialist republic in 1974. In 1979, the ruling authorities changed the name to Myanmar.
Although religion and tribal customs influence the cuisine of the people of this polyglot land-in which today's specialists have identified 67 separate indigenous groups-it is perhaps the terrain and climate, which have had the greatest effect on regional cuisines. These factors determine the basic produce and therefore influence the dishes prepared by the people living in each area. The Burmese tend to classify their country into three broad areas: what used to be referred to as "Lower Burma," the humid Ayeyarwady delta around Yangon, and the land stretching far south into the Isthmus of Kra; "Middle Burma," the central zone around Mandalay, ringed by mountain ranges and thus the driest area in all of Southeast Asia, and "Upcountry," the mountainous regions which include the Shan Plateau and Shan Hills to the east, the Chin Hills to the west and the ranges frequented by the Kachin tribe to the far north.
The long southern coastal strip of "Lower Burma," Tanintharyi, is washed by the waters of the Andaman Sea and shares a border with Thailand. This region is rich in all kinds of seafood, which is understandably preferred to meat or poultry. While people in other areas of Myanmar eat freshwater fish caught in the rivers, lakes and irrigation canals, this coastal region offers a cornucopia of marine fish, crabs, squid, shrimps, lobsters, oysters, and shellfish.
Flowing in a general north-south direction for some 1,349 miles, the life-giving Ayeyarwady rises in the mountains of the far north, then branches into a maze of rivers and creeks that make up the delta-about 168 miles at its widest. This is the rice granary of the nation. Rice is the staple crop in Myanmar and is consumed not only for the main meals of the day but for snacks as well. It is eaten boiled, steamed and parched; in the form of dough or noodles; drunk as wine or distilled as spirits. A combined coastal length of about 1,492 miles and a network of rivers, irrigation channels and estuaries, particularly in the Ayeyarwady delta region, yields a dazzling array of fresh-and saltwater fish, lobsters, shrimps, shrimp, and crabs. The Ayeyarwady delta supplies the bulk of freshwater fish, sold fresh, dried, fermented or made into the all-important ngapi, a dried fish or shrimp paste (similar to Thai kapi, Malaysian belacan and Indonesian trassi).
Mandalay, where the last king of Burma ruled, is the cultural heart of the fiercely hot, dry plains of central Myanmar. Irrigation has made it possible to expand agriculture from dry rice (which depended on seasonal rain for its growth) to include crops such as peanut, sorghum, sesame, corn and many types of bean and lentil. Various fermented bean or lentil sauces and pastes are used as seasonings in this region, rather than the fermented fish and shrimp products typical of the south. Not having access to fresh seafood, the people of the central plains generally eat freshwater fish, with the occasional dish of pork or beef.
The most populated "upcountry" area of Myanmar is the Shan Plateau, a region of mountain ranges and wide fertile valleys with a mean altitude of 3,443 feet above sea level, adjoining China, Laos and Thailand. A wide variety of food is grown here: rice, wheat, soya beans, sugar cane, niger seed, sunflowers, maize, and peanuts; and vegetables including potatoes, cabbage, cucumber, cauliflower, celery, eggplant, hops, kale, kholrabi, lettuce, mustard, rape, roselle, tomatoes, and chayote. Soups from this region are more likely to be based on beef or pork stock than made with fish or dried shrimps. The soups are not as clear as those found elsewhere in Myanmar, as they are often thickened with powdered soya bean. One example of this is the Shan version of Burmese noodles (kyaukswe), which is based on pork in a soup thickened with powdered soya bean, rather than made with chicken and coconut milk as in the rest of the country.
A Unique Cuisine Evolves
Poised between two culinary giants, India and China, and inspired by the ingredients and styles of Southeast Asia, the cuisine of Myanmar has developed a unique personality of its own. China has had a marked impact on the food of Southeast Asia, including that of Myanmar. Noodles made from wheat, rice and mung peas are perhaps the most noticeable legacy of China. In Myanmar, these are found in noodle soups like mohinga, a spicy, fish-based dish with sliced banana heart that is virtually the national dish. Another widely available dish is chicken in spicy coconut gravy, ohn-no kyaukswe, which includes either wheat, rice or mung pea ("transparent") noodles.
The Indian influence on Myanmar food is seen in the widespread use of ingredients such as chickpeas, coriander seeds, cumin, and turmeric. But whereas Indian cuisine relies on a complex blending of spices, Burmese food uses only a few dried spices, adding extra flavor with many fresh seasonings and condiments.
The food of Myanmar has, perhaps, more in common with its Southeast Asian neighbors, Laos and Thailand, than with India. The use of fermented shrimp and fish products such as dried paste, fermented fish in liquid, and clear fish sauce has parallels in both Laos and Thailand, where these ingredients largely replace salt and give a characteristic flavor to many dishes. The sour fruit of the tamarind tree, most commonly used in the form of a dried pulp, is often preferred to vinegar or lime juice in many Burmese dishes.
Coconut milk, so prevalent in the cuisine of Southeast Asia, is also used in many Burmese dishes and for sweetmeats, while agar agar-a setting agent from seaweed-is also popular in Burmese desserts and drinks.
At the Burmese Table
Breakfast in Myanmar is traditionally a light repast of fried rice, or yesterday's rice warmed up, served with boiled garden peas and green tea. Many delicious alternatives are now becoming popular though. Breakfast today could take the form of steamed glutinous rice topped with roasted sesame seeds and fish or vegetable fritters; smoked dried fish; mohinga, thin rice noodles in fish soup; or ohn-no kyaukswe, wheat flour noodles in chicken and coconut gravy. Rice gruel garnished with chunks of fried Chinese dough sticks might be gulped down, as might naan, flat bread fresh from the tandoor oven, with either boiled garden pea salad or lamb bone soup. Alternatively, a steaming chickpea broth or a chicken curry might provide the morning's sustenance.
The main meal is not served in courses as in the West. All the dishes, soups, condiments and vegetable dips are arranged in the middle, with a large bowl of rice for second helpings placed on the side. Meat and fish dishes are usually prepared in the form of curries, with fish dishes being much more popular in the lands bordering the lower reaches of the Ayeyarwady River and the delta region, while up country palates are partial to beans and pulses and their various by-products. Most curries are prepared with a thin gravy, which is then drizzled over the rice, mixed in and eaten with the fish or vegetables and fish preserve.
Soup is almost always served during the course of a meal and helps wash down the rice. It may be a hingga, meaning hot peppery soup, or a hincho, a slightly milder concoction. The soup is usually a clear broth with leaves, buds or slices of fruit. On more formal occasions, a thicker broth of fish and vegetables is served with rice noodles. Vegetable and fruit salads are very popular. Some of the heavier salads, such as a rice-based "salad," can be eaten either as snacks between meals or as meals in themselves.
No meal would be considered complete without the condiment ngapi, or to use its full name, ngapi-seinsa: fish, or sometimes shrimp, boiled and garnished with crushed garlic, toasted dried chilies and chili powder.
After a meal, fruits such as banana, mango, pomelo, and durian are usually eaten in lieu of cooked desserts, which tend to be eaten as snacks throughout the day. As a special treat, lephet, or fermented tea leaf salad, might be served. The main ingredient of this unusual salad is fermented tea leaves; these are then mixed with, or accompanied by, peanuts, roasted sesame seeds, fried garlic, coconut, and ginger slices, and so on. Though it may seem unusual to serve a savory dish after the main meal, this is when lephet is often eaten; though you may find it served as a first course in Burmese restaurants in the West.
SUGGESTED MENUS
Family meals
For a simple yet satisfying family meal, try serving with steamed white rice and a Fish Sauce Dip (page 29):
• Rice Noodles in Fish Soup (page 27);
• Hand-tossed Salad (page 26);
• Catfish in Tamarind Sauce (page 28);
• Fresh fruits such as mango or papaya,
Dinner parties
For a fun Burmese-style dinner party, serve:
• Pumpkin Soup with Basil (page 26),
• Grilled Eggplant Salad (page 26);
• Burmese Crab Curry (page 28);
• Pork and Mango Curry (page 28).
• Sesame-topped Semolina Cake with Coconut (page 29).
Finger food
The following snacks and appetizers may be eaten throughout the day, even as desserts:
• Fermented Tea Leaf Salad (page 26), which is also served after a meal in Burma;
• Transparent Savory Rice Pancakes (page 29).
A melting pot menu
Enjoy a culinary tour of Asia at your dining table with:
• Shrimp Mousse on Sugar Cane (page 177) from Vietnam as an appetizer;
• Pork and Mango Curry (page 28) from Burma and Shrimps with Sweet and Sour Sauce (page 159) from Thailand with plain rice;
• Mango Jellies (page 134) from Malaysia for dessert.
THE ESSENTIAL FLAVORS OF BURMESE COOKING
Indispensable to the Myanmar pantry are garlic, ginger, and cilantro (coriander) leaves. A good supply of fresh jasmine rice is a must and glutinous rice would be useful for some dishes. Flavorings you'll need include fish sauce, soy sauce, and sesame oil. Fresh chilies and dried chili flakes are a common addition to dishes as are dried shrimps and shrimp paste. Fermented tea leaves are easily found at all Burmese foodstores and come ready packed with all the extras making for a great, instant Burmese snack.
While Burma has long been renowned for its natural beauty, its culinary treasures have remained a well-kept secret until recently. The country has absorbed the culinary influences of its neighbors to make its food even more unique.
Lephet Thoke
Fermented Tea Leaf Salad
Lephet is an everyday part of Burmese social culture. Lephet is served to welcome guests to a house, as a peace offering after an argument, as a snack in front of the television, as a palate cleanser after a meal, and even as a stimulant to ward off sleep during all-night Burmese opera. Instant, packaged Lephet Thoke is now readily available from Burmese shops.
4 tablespoons lephet (fermented tea leaves)
3 cloves garlic, sliced and deep-fried till crisp
1 bird's-eye chili, finely chopped
2 tablespoons dried shrimps, soaked and blended to powdery fluff
2 tablespoons roasted peanuts
1 tablespoon toasted sesame seeds
2 teaspoons lime juice
2 teaspoons fish sauce
1 tablespoon peanut oil
Traditionally, lephet is served in a lacquer container with different compartments for each ingredient. Diners then choose their ingredients and, using only the thumb and first two fingers of the right hand, delicately serve themselves. Finger bowls would be provided.
Today, most Burmese combine all the ingredients in a bowl and mix them thoroughly as with a conventional salad.
Shwepayon Hincho
Pumpkin Soup with Basil
1 tablespoon oil
3 cloves garlic, coarsely chopped
1 lb 6 oz (700 g) peeled, seeded and cubed pumpkin
4 cups (1 liter) chicken stock
Salt and pepper to taste
½ cup chopped Thai basil (horapa) leaves (substitute with European basil)
Heat oil in pan and lightly saute garlic for 5 minutes till fragrant. Add pumpkin and chicken stock to the pan and bring to a boil. Cover and simmer for 20 minutes till pumpkin is tender. Transfer to a blender and process till smooth. Return the soup to the pan and add salt and pepper to taste. Add chopped fresh basil just before serving.
Khayanthee Thoke
Grilled Eggplant Salad
2 large eggplants (aubergines)
2 tablespoons finely sliced onion, soaked in water
6 cloves garlic, sliced
2 tablespoons peanut oil
2 tablespoons chopped roasted peanuts
1 tablespoon toasted sesame seeds
2 bird's-eye chilies, finely sliced
2 teaspoons fish sauce
2 tablespoons chopped cilantro (coriander) leaves
Grill eggplants over charcoal flame till skin lightly charred; alternatively, bake or cook under grill (broil) till soft. Cool, discard skin and mash the flesh. Heat oil in wok, add garlic and deep-fry till crisp. Remove with slotted spoon and retain oil.
Place the eggplant, onion, garlic, peanuts, sesame, chili, and fish sauce in a salad bowl. Add 1 teaspoon of the garlic-infused oil and mix well. Garnish with cilantro.
Let Thoke Sone
Hand-tossed Salad
Main Ingredients
4 small potatoes, peeled and cubed
2 pressed (firm) beancurd cakes (about 10 oz/300 g), soaked
¼ cup (60 ml) oil for deep-frying
½ cup (75 g) cooked rice
1 large red chili, finely chopped
1 cup (200 g) fresh egg noodles, blanched
1 cup (80 g) transparent vermicelli, soaked 2 minutes and boiled 3 minutes
1 cup (20 g) shredded cabbage
1 cup (80 g) beansprouts, blanched
1 cup (150 g) shredded green papaya
1 medium tomato, peeled and chopped
1 cup (160 g) peeled and shredded cucumber
Garnishes
2 tablespoons peanut oil
1 medium onion, finely sliced
12 cloves garlic, finely sliced
2 tablespoons chili flakes
2 tablespoons tamarind pulp soaked in ½ cup (125 ml) water
3 bird's-eye chilies, finely sliced
1 teaspoon sugar syrup
4 tablespoons dried shrimps, soaked and blended to powdery fluff
4 tablespoons roasted pea flour
4 tablespoons fish sauce
½ cup chopped cilantro (coriander) leaves
For main ingredients, boil potatoes till done. Drain beancurd cakes and dry with paper towel. Slice each one in half then cut each half into 9 pieces to yield 36 cubes. Heat oil, add beancurd and deep-fry over medium-high heat for 5 minutes till golden on all sides. Remove with slotted spoon and set aside. Knead chilies into cooked rice to color it.
For garnishes, heat oil in pan and fry onion and garlic till crisp. Remove and set aside, retain the oil. Sauté chili flakes by spooning the retained hot oil onto the chili flakes in a separate bowl and set aside (if chili flakes are placed directly into very hot oil, they will burn immediately). Stir and strain tamarind water, discard solids. Add bird's-eye chili and sugar syrup to tamarind water and set aside.
To serve, arrange all main ingredients on a large plate. Place each of the garnishes in individual bowls. Take a small handful of each item from the main ingredients. Then sprinkle on a little of each of the garnishes and mix thoroughly by hand.
Monlar Oo Thoke
Daikon Salad
This easy-to-prepare and refreshing salad can be eaten as a starter or as an accompaniment to curries and rice.
3 tablespoons rice vinegar
1 teaspoon salt
1 tablespoon sugar
1 large daikon radish (long white Oriental radish) (about lib, or 450 g), peeled and finely sliced
1 small onion, sliced
9 cloves garlic, finely chopped
3 tablespoons peanut oil
2 tablespoons peanuts
1 tablespoon toasted sesame seeds
1 teaspoon fish sauce
2 tablespoons chopped cilantro (coriander) leaves
Mix rice vinegar, salt, and sugar in a salad bowl and whisk till salt and sugar are dissolved. Add the radish, toss and chill for IS minutes. Soak the sliced onion in cold water for 5 minutes and drain. Fry the chopped garlic in oil over high heat till golden, remove with a slotted spoon and drain on paper towel. (Discard oil or retain for use in another dish). Dry-roast the peanuts in a pan, cool and grind finely. When ready to serve, remove the radish mixture from the refrigerator and drain excess liquid. Add remaining ingredients and toss well.
Mohinga
Rice Noodles in Fish Soup
Stock
2 lb (1 kg) whole catfish
5 stalks lemongrass, bruised
1 teaspoon turmeric powder
4 tablespoons fish sauce
8 cups (2 Iiters) water
Soup
¾ cup (150 g) raw rice, dry-roasted till light brown and ground to a powder
12 cups (3 liters) water
4 medium dried chilies
1 medium onion, roughly chopped
3 cloves garlic, minced
1 teaspoon ground ginger
2 tablespoons coarsely ground lemongrass
½ cup (125 ml) peanut oil
½ teaspoon turmeric powder
1½ teaspoons salt
1 teaspoon ground black pepper
3 tablespoons fish sauce
12 whole shallots, peeled
7 oz (200 g) banana stem, sliced 1 in (2½ cm) thick (optional)
Garnish
10 oz (300g) rice vermicelli noodles, soaked for 2 minutes and boiled for 2½ minutes, drained and tossed with a little peanut oil
4 hard-boiled eggs, peeled and quartered
1 small onion, finely sliced and fried with a pinch of turmeric till crisp
Split-pea Crackers (see below), crumbled
Fried Fish Cakes (see below)
3 scallions (spring onions), sliced
½ cup chopped cilantro (coriander) leaves
4 limes, quartered
Fish sauce
Chili flakes
To make stock, place all ingredients in large pan and boil. Reduce heat, cover and cook for 20 minutes. Remove fish, flake flesh and set aside. Strain stock and discard solids.
To make the soup, add rice powder to water, stir and set aside. Blend chilies, onion, garlic, ginger and lemongrass to a paste. Heat oil in a pan and saute chili paste with turmeric till fragrant. Stir in fish, then add salt, pepper, fish sauce, and whole shallots and continue to cook for 5 minutes. Add banana stem, stock, and rice powder water. Bring to a boil, stirring to prevent lumps forming. Boil for IS minutes, reduce heat and simmer for 20 minutes.
Arrange all garnishes on the table, add a little of each to a bowl then add. Add a drop or two of the fish sauce and chili flakes to taste.
Pe Chan Gyaw
Split-pea Crackers
5 tablespoons rice flour
2 cups (500 ml) water
½ cup (100 g) dried yellow split-peas, soaked overnight
¼ teaspoon salt
1 cup (250 ml) oil for deep-frying
Add rice flour to water and stir well. Stir in split-peas and salt.
Heat oil for deep-frying. Spoon 1 tablespoon of the mixture into the oil and deep-fry till crisp. Deep-fry several crackers at the same time. Drain on paper towel and cool. Crumble by hand if required.
Ngephe Gyaw
Fried Fish Cakes
1 lb (500 g) featherback fish (substitute with cod, kingfish or flounder)
1 clove garlic
1 teaspoon ground ginger
¼ teaspoon turmeric powder
¼ teaspoon salt
½ teaspoon chilli flakes
Water to moisten fingers
1 cup (250 ml) oil for deep-frying
Fillet the fish, flake the flesh and transfer to a mortar. Add garlic and ginger and pound to a paste. Add turmeric, salt and chili flakes and continue to pound for 10-15 minutes.
Roll the mixture into 3-in (7-cm) long "sausages", moistening fingers to help shape the mixture. Heat oil in pan, add several of the "fish sausages" at one time (not too many as they expand). Deep-fry for 5 minutes till golden brown. Remove and drain on paper towel.
Ohn-no Kyaukswe
Coconut Noodles
1 lb (500 g) boneless chicken, cubed
6 tablespoons fish sauce
¼ cup (60 ml) oil
3 tablespoons ground onion
1 tablespoon ground garlic
½ tablespoon ground ginger
½ teaspoon turmeric powder
1 tablespoon chili flakes
½ cup (50 g) chickpea flour
1 cup (250 ml) water
7 cups (1 ¾ liters) chicken stock
1 1/3 cups (330 ml) coconut milk
Garnish
4 hard-boiled eggs, peeled and sliced
1 medium onion, soaked and finely sliced
½ cup chopped cilantro (coriander) leaves
2 limes, quartered
1 lb (2 kg) fresh egg noodles, blanched in boiling water
12 oz (350 g) fresh egg noodles, deep-fried in 1 cup (250 ml) oil till crisp, drained on paper towel, cooled and crumbled by hand into bite-sized pieces
7 tablespoons chili flakes
Fish sauce
Marinate chicken with fish sauce for at least 15 minutes. Heat oil in large pan, saute onion, garlic; ginger, and turmeric for 5 minutes. Stir in chicken and chili flakes. Cover and cook over medium-low heat for 10 minutes. Stir occasionally to prevent chicken sticking to pan. Meanwhile, add chickpea flour to water and whisk to remove lumps.
Add chicken stock to the pan and bring to a boil. Reduce heat, add chickpea flour paste, cover and simmer for a further 10 minutes. Add coconut milk and continue to simmer for 30-40 minutes, stirring occasionally, till the sauce thickens slightly.
Arrange each garnishing item on a separate plate on the table around a central bowl of chicken and coconut soup. To serve, take a portion of fresh noodles, add a little of each garnishing (a dash of fish sauce if desired) and a generous helping of soup.
Pazunhtok Sebyan
Shrimp in Tomato Curry
Use the freshest large shrimp for this curry. Serve this spicy dish with plain rice and stir-fried vegetables.
1 lb (500 g) tiger prawns, shelled and cleaned
1 tablespoon fish sauce
1/3 cup (80 ml) oil
2 tablespoons minced onion
3 cloves garlic, minced
¼ teaspoon turmeric powder
1 tablespoon chili flakes
2 small tomatoes, cut in wedges
1 large green chili, halved length wise
½ teaspoon salt
2 tablespoons chopped cilantro (coriander) leaves
Marinate prawns in fish sauce for at least 15 minutes. Heat oil in pan and saute onion and garlic for 5 minutes till fragrant. Stir in turmeric. Lower heat and add chili flakes, tomato, green chili and salt. Cook for 6-8 minutes stirring to a paste. Add shrimps and cilantro and cook for 3-4 minutes, stirring frequently, till shrimps are done.
Ngakhu Chet
Catfish in Tamarind Sauce
4 catfish, about 1 lb (500 g) (substitute with red snapper), gutted and heads removed
½ teaspoon salt
1 cup (250 ml) water
2 tablespoons fish sauce
2 tablespoons tamarind pulp soaked in ½ cup (125 ml) water
3 tablespoons oil
1 tablespoon sugar
2 tablespoons minced onion
1 clove garlic, ground
1 teaspoon chili flakes
½ cup chopped cilantro (coriander) leaves
Score the fish diagonally and marinate in salt for 10 minutes. Transfer fish to pan, add water and fish sauce, cover and simmer for 6-8 minutes. Squeeze soaking tamarind pulp, stir, strain and discard solids. Heat oil in separate pan and saute onion and garlic till fragrant. Stir in sugar and chili. Add fish and mix welL Add tamarind water, cover and cook for 10 minutes. Garnish with cilantro.
Ganan Hin
Burmese Crab Curry
The natural sweetness of the crab and onion is complemented by the sour tang of tamarind and the aroma of garam masala.
4 whole live crabs, about 2 lb (1 kg)
4 cups (1 liter) water for boiling crab
4 medium dried red chilies, soaked
3 tablespoons chopped onion
2 whole cloves garlic
2 tablespoons oil
¼ teaspoon turmeric powder
1 tablespoon fish sauce
2 teaspoons tamarind pulp soaked in 2 tablespoons water
1 teaspoon garam masala
1 cup (250 ml) water
Plunge live crabs into about 4 cups (1 liter) boiling water for 3 minutes and drain. Clean crab and discard spongy grey matter. Use a cleaver to chop crab into large pieces; smash the claws lightly with the side of a cleaver to allow the flavors to penetrate.
Drain chilies and transfer to a blender, add onion and garlic and blend to a paste. Heat oil in pan, saute chili paste for 4 minutes till fragrant. Stir in turmeric and fry for a further 1 minute. Add crab and fish sauce and mix thoroughly. Cover and cook over a medium heat for 5 minutes, stirring occasionally. Stir and strain the tamarind water and discard the solids. Add tamarind juice, garam masala, and water to the crab, bring to the boil and simmer for 10 minutes.
Wether Ahchin Chet
Pork and Mango Curry
The sourness of this pork curry depends on the mango used. Serve with plain rice, a vegetable dish and salad.
1 lb (500 g) pork loin, cubed
1 tablespoon fish sauce
2 tablespoons oil
3 tablespoons minced onion
2 cloves garlic, minced
1 teaspoon ground ginger
3 medium dried red chilies, soaked and ground
1 ½ tablespoons peeled and shredded young (unripe) mango
1 teaspoon salt
1¼ cups (300 ml) water
Marinate pork in fish sauce for at least 10 minutes. Heat oil in pan and saute onion and garlic 5 minutes till fragrant. Add ginger and chili and continue to fry for 2 minutes. Stir in pork, mango and salt and mix well. Cover and cook over low heat for 20 minutes, stirring occasionally. Add water and simmer over low heat for 20-25 minutes.
Kyethar Ngapichet
Chicken Curry with Tomato
1 chicken, cut into 8 pieces
3 medium dried red chillies, soaked and ground
3 tablespoons finely sliced onion
1 small tomato, seeded and chopped
1 tablespoon finely sliced large green chili
¼ cup (60 ml) peanut oil
1 teaspoon shrimp paste
250 ml (1 cup) water
¼ cup (60 ml) chopped saw-leaf, herb, substitute with cilantro (coriander) leaves
Marinade
1 tablespoon fish sauce
1 teaspoon salt
¼ teaspoon turmeric powder
1 teaspoon ground ginger
3 cloves garlic, minced
Mix the marinade, combine with the chicken and set aside. Heat oil and saute chili paste and onions for 5 minutes till fragrant. Stir in shrimp paste. Add tomato, green chili, and chicken, cover and cook for 5 minutes. Stir occasionally to prevent chicken from sticking. Add water, cover and cook over moderately low heat for 30 minutes till chicken is done. Garnish with saw-leaf herb or cilantro.
Ye Mon
Transparent Savory Rice Pancakes
These deliciously light crepes can be filled with a variety of different ingredients.
2 cups (300 g) rice flour
2½ cups (625 ml) cold water
1 teaspoon salt
¼ teaspoon baking soda
1 teaspoon finely chopped ginger
2 tablespoons peanut oil
½ cup (100 g) cowpeas (garden peas may be substituted)
3 scallions (spring onions), sliced
Mix rice flour, water, salt, baking soda and ginger in a bowl. Place a 12-in (30-cm) frying pan over medium heat and pour 4-5 tablespoons of rice paste into the pan. Lightly brush the pancake with a little oil and sprinkle on cowpeas and scallion. Cook for 3-4 minutes till under-side is crisp. Fold in half and cook for 1 minute on each side.
Shwekyi Senyinmakin
Sesame-topped Semolina Cake with Coconut
2 ¼ cups (240 g) semolina
2 ½ cups (625 ml) coconut milk
2 ½ cups (625 ml) water
2 ½ cups (550 g) sugar
2 teaspoons salt
2 eggs, beaten
½ cup (125 ml) oil, heated
2 tablespoons white poppy seeds
½ cup (75 g) raisins
Preheat oven to 400°F (200°C, gas mark 6). Dry-roast semolina in a frying pan over low heat for 10 minutes till reddishbrown, then cool. In a saucepan, add roasted semolina, coconut milk, water, sugar, salt, beaten eggs, and hot oil. Bring to a boil and cook over medium low heat for 20 minutes till the mixture comes away from the sides of the pan. Stir continuously with a wooden spatula throughout cooking process. If the mixture begins to stick to the pan, add a teaspoon or two of oil. Several minutes before the end of cooking, add raisins and mix well.
Transfer the mixture to a lightly oiled round baking tray 12 in (30 cm) in diameter and 3 in (7½ cm) deep. Smooth the surface with a metal spoon or cake knife and sprinkle poppy seeds on surface. Bake on medium shelf for 15 minutes. Remove from oven and set aside for several hours at room temperature. Cut the cake in the baking tray and arrange slices on a serving plate.
Ngapiyayche
Fish Sauce Dip
1 cup (250 ml) water
1 tablespoon preserved fish paste
¼ teaspoon turmeric powder
2 dried red chilies, soaked
2 bird's-eye chilies
1 tablespoon dried shrimps, soaked
2 cloves garlic
Bring water, fish paste and turmeric to the boil, simmer and reduce by half. Strain and discard solids. Pound remaining ingredients in a mortar and mix with fish stock. Serve with raw vegetables.
"An ancient Chinese proverb says, 'To the ruler, people are heaven; to the people, food is heaven.'"
Three generations sit down to a meal in the courtyard of an old house in Fujian province, in Southern China.
