Читать книгу The Food of Asia - Kong Foong Ling - Страница 9

Ingredients

Most of the ingredients called for in this book are readily found at Chinese or Asian grocery stores or some supermarkets.

AGAR-AGAR A setting agent derived from seaweed which hardens without refrigeration, used for cakes and desserts. It comes in long strands or in powder form; 1 teaspoon of powder sets 1-1½ cups liquid. To use, sprinkle powdered agar-agar over liquid and bring it gently to a boil, stirring until dissolved.

ANCHOVIES, DRIED Most are usually less than 1 in (2½ cm) long, and used to season many Malaysian and Indonesian dishes. Discard the heads and any black intestinal tract before using. Sometimes sold as "silver fish".

ANNATTO SEEDS The dark reddish-brown seed of the "lipstick plant." commonly used as a coloring agent. The seeds are fried in oil to extract an orange color and discarded. The oil is used for cooking.

ASAFOETIDA A strong-smelling gum derived from a Persian plant believed to aid digestion. Use sparingly.

ASAM GELUGUR, DRIED Slices of a sour fruit (Garcinia atnoviridis) used in place of tamarind pulp in some Malay and Nonya dishes; the latter can be used as a substitute.

EGGPLANT Known also as aubergine or brinjal, this vegetable is much smaller and thinner throughout Asia than its Western counterpart. Japanese eggplants are often no more than about 4-8 in (10-20 cm) long. The Thais also use a rather bitter pea-sized eggplant and the apple variety. Use slender Asian or Japanese eggplants for all recipes in this book-they are less bitter and have a better texture. They do not need salting before use.

BAMBOO SHOOTS Used fresh, vinegared or dried in Asian cookery. Fresh shoots are sweet and crunchy. Peel, slice and boil for about 30 minutes before adding to dishes. Soak and boil dried shoots before use. If using canned bamboo shoots, drain and boil in fresh water for 5 minutes to remove the metallic taste.

BANANA BLOSSOM The flower bud of the banana plant. Slice finely and use as garnish for noodle soups or in salads.

BANANA LEAVES Used primarily for wrapping sweetmeats, sausages, and pates before cooking. The leaves preserve moisture, and impart a mild fragrance to the food.

BASIL Three varieties are used in Thailand. The most common variety. horapa. is fairly similar to European and American sweet basil, and used liberally as a seasoning. "Lemon basil" or manglak is added to soups and salads. Kaprow. sometimes known as "holy basil", is stronger in flavor and has purplish markings. Basil is known as daun selasih or kemangi in Indonesia.

BEAN CURD Widely used in Thai. Chinese. Malaysian, and Japanese cuisines. The most common variety is called "cotton" or momen tofu. Use this unless otherwise specified. "Cotton" bean curd is generally sold packed in water in containers and is firmer and easier to handle than fine-textured "silken" bean curd, which is often available in plastic trays or rolls (cut with a sharp knife while still in the plastic so it keeps its shape).

Deep-fried bean curd or aburage is available in plastic bags and should be rinsed in boiling water to remove excess oil before using. A grilled beancurd (yakidofu). which has a speckled brown surface, is also sold in plastic bags. Small cubes of dried deep-fried bean curd are added to slow-cooked dishes and some soups. Fermented bean curd (nam yee), sold in jars and either red or white in color, is used in small amounts as a seasoning in Chinese dishes.

BEAN CURD SKIN The skin that forms on top of soybean milk when it is brought to a simmer, skimmed off and dried. Reconstitute the sheets in warm water before using as a wrapper or in braises. The stuffed skins can be deep-fried, simmered or sauteed.

BEANSPROUTS Sprouted green mung peas are eaten blanched in some salads and soups, or quickly stir-fried as a vegetable. Pinch off the straggly tails just before use if desired.

BELIMBING See CARAMBOLA

BENITADE Decorative maroon-colored sprouts with a slight peppery taste. A popular Japanese garnish. Substitute with alfalfa sprouts or very finely shredded red cabbage.

BESAN Flour made from Bengal gram or channa dal, sometimes referred to as gram flour. Used to make a batter for vegetables or fish, or to thicken and add flavor to Indian dishes.

BITTER GOURD A firm gourd that looks like a fat, knobbly, green cucumber. It has a crisp texture and a strong, bitter flavor. Remove the seeds and inner membrane before cooking. Slice thinly if using in salads, or cut into thick chunks for stuffing.

BLACK BEANS, SALTED Fermented salted black soy beans, a common seasoning for fish and beef. Sold in packets or tins, they can be kept for several months if stored in a covered jar in the fridge. Rinse before use to remove excess salt.

BLACK MOSS FUNGUS A fine, hair-like fungus valued in Chinese cooking. Soak in warm water until pliable before using.

BLACK SAUCE, SWEET A thick, treacle-like sauce used in fresh spring rolls (popiah).

BONITO, DRIED With dried kelp, an essential component of Japanese stock or dashi. Shaved bonito flakes (katsuo-bushi) are now available in plastic packs.

BOXTHORN BERRIES Oval red berries sometimes known as wolf berries, prized by the Chinese for their medicinal properties. Used in soups.

BURDOCK The root of the burdock plant, popular in Japanese cuisine. Scrape off the skin and place into water to stop it discoloring until ready to slice or shred. Fresh and tinned burdock are available from Japanese stores.

CANDLENUT A waxy, cream-colored nut similar in size and shape to a macadamia, which can be used as a substitute (although less expensive almonds or cashews will also do). It is ground and used to add texture and a faint flavor to Malay and Nonya dishes. Do not eat raw. Store in the fridge.

CARAMBOLA A pale-green acidic fruit about 2-3 in (5-8 cm) long that grows in clusters. A relative of the starfruit, carambola is used whole or sliced to give a sour tang to soups, curries, fish dishes and sambals. Sour grapefruit juice or tamarind juice are good substitutes.

CARDAMOM About 15-20 intensely fragrant brown-black seeds are enclosed in a straw-colored pod. Try to buy the whole pod rather than seeds or powder for maximum flavor. Bruise lightly with the back of a cleaver to break the pod. More common are small, greenish or straw-colored pods containing a dozen or so tiny, intensely aromatic black seeds. Large black cardamom pods, which are at least six times the size of the green, are used in some northern Indian dishes.

CAROM Carum ajowan comes from the same family as cumin and parsley. Known as carom or bishop's weed in the West, it is called ajwain in India. The flavor is similar to caraway with overtones of thyme.

CATERPILLAR FUNGUS Neither a caterpillar nor a fungus, these dried pods (Cordyceps sinensis) are used in Chinese dishes for their medicinal value.

CELERY The celery used in Asia is much smaller than the Western variety, with slender stems and particularly pungent leaves. Often known as "Chinese celery" and used as a herb rather than vegetable, it is added to soups, rice dishes and stir-fries. Substitute with regular celery leaves.

CENTURY EGGS Duck eggs coated with a mixture of powdered lime; rice husks and salt and left to cure for several months. To use, peel off the shell and quarter or chop the eggs, which have a translucent black albumen and greenish-grey yolk.

CHILI Many different varieties of chilies are used in Asia. The flavor of fresh and dried chilies is different, so be sure to use the type specified in the recipes. Large, finger-length green (unripe) and red (ripe) chilies are usually moderately hot.

In India chilies are used fresh only in their unripe green state. The majority of ripe red chilies are dried and a large percentage ground to make chili powder. Cut or break dried chilies into pieces and soak in hot water for about 10 minutes to soften before grinding or blending. If you want to reduce the heat without losing flavor, discard some or all of the seeds.

The main types of chili used in Thailand, Malaysia and Indonesia include the normal finger-length red or green chili; tiny but fiery-hot bird's-eye chilies (which may be red, green or yellowy-orange) and dried red chilies. Be careful to wash your hands thoroughly after handling chilies-use rubber gloves if possible.

CHILI OIL Dried chilies or chili powder steeped in oil, used to enliven some Sichuan dishes.

CHILI PASTE Pounded chilies, sometimes mixed with vinegar, sold in jars. The heat varies from brand to brand. Sichuan chili paste is made from dried chilies, soaked and ground with a touch of oil.

CHILI POWDER Made from finely ground dried chilies. Do not confuse with American chili powder, which is a blend of a variety of seasonings.

CHILI SAUCE Chilies mixed with water and seasoned with salt, garlic, sugar, and vinegar, sold in bottles and jars. Some sauces are sweeter than others, and others may have added flavorings like garlic or ginger.

CHINESE CABBAGE The three most common types are white cabbage (bai cai or in Cantonese, bok choy), which has white stems and bright green leaves and is often sold in immature form; long white or "celery" cabbage, which has long pale green leaves and white celery-like stems; and round cabbage.

CHINESE RICE WINE Wine made from fermented rice used in cooking. Wine from Shaoxing, generally considered the best, is available from Chinese food stores. Dry sherry is a substitute.

CHINESE SAUSAGES Thin, sweet Chinese pork sausages that are delicately perfumed with rice wine. Used as a seasoning rather than eaten on their own. They will keep almost indefinitely without refrigeration.

CHIRONJI NUTS Small brownish nuts that look a little like large sunflower seeds, sometimes ground with other nuts, such as cashews or almonds, or with white poppy seeds to enrich some dishes. The flavor is similar to that of hazelnuts. Substitute with a mixture of hazelnuts and almonds.

CHIVES "Chinese", "coarse" or "garlic" chives have dark green flat leaves about 12 in (30 cm) long. They are used as a vegetable and as a herb. The flavor is stronger than normal chives.

CHOKO An oval-shaped squash that looks like a light green cucumber, with a small white seed inside. Peel before using as a vegetable. Zucchini is a substitute.

CHRYSANTHEMUM LEAVES Enjoyed as a vegetable for their distinctive flavor and bright green color. Spinach leaves can be used as a substitute.

CILANTRO See CORIANDER.

CINNAMON True cinnamon comes from the fragrant bark of a tree native to Sri Lanka, and is lighter in color, thinner and more expensive than cassia bark, which is often sold as cinnamon. Powdered cinnamon is not a substitute.

CLOUD EAR FUNGUS Sometimes known as wood fungus, this crinkly greyish-brown dried fungus swells to many times its original size after soaking in warm water for a few minutes. They have little flavor but are prized for their texture.

CLOVES A small, brown, nail-shaped spice that emits a floral, spicy fragrance. Used in spice blends.

COCONUT Widely used in Malaysia, Singapore, Sri Lanka, Philippines, and Indonesia, not just for cooking but also for palm sugar, alcohol, housing, utensils, and charcoal. The grated flesh is often added to food; it is also squeezed with water to make coconut milk. To make fresh coconut milk, put the flesh of a grated coconut into a bowl and add ½ cup lukewarm water. Squeeze and knead for 1 minute, then squeeze handful by handful, straining into a bowl to obtain thick milk. Repeat the process with another 2½ cups of water to obtain thin milk. Combine both lots of milk for the coconut milk called for in this book, unless thick milk is specified. Coconut milk can be frozen; thaw and stir thoroughly before use.

The best substitute for fresh coconut milk is instant coconut powder, sometimes sold under the name "santan". Follow the instructions on the packet. Use tinned coconut cream for desserts and cakes.

CORIANDER Widely used in Asian cooking. Thais use the whole coriander plant: leaves, seeds, and roots. The roots are pounded together with garlic and black pepper to make a common basic seasoning. The seeds are roasted and ground for spice blends, and the leaves, known as cilantro or Chinese parsley, are eaten as a vegetable or used as a herb.

CORNFLOUR Known also as cornstarch, this fine white powder is widely used to thicken sauces. Mix cornflour with water, stir and add to the pan. Cook, stirring constantly for a few seconds, until the sauce thickens.

CUCUMBER Japanese cucumbers are short, roughly 1 in (2½ cm) in diameter, and have a sweeter flavor and better texture than large cucumbers. Lebanese cucumbers are an ideal substitute.

CUMIN Pale brown to black fragrant seeds that look similar to caraway. Frequently partnered with coriander in spice mixtures and curry pastes.

CURRY LEAF Sprigs of these small, dark green leaves with a distinctive fragrance are often used in Indian curries. A sprig is about 8-12 individual leaves. Dried curry leaves are milder, but a more satisfactory substitute than daun salam or bay leaves.

CURRY POWDER Various spices are ground together to form curry powders. Certain spice combinations are appropriate to different basic foods, and curry powders labelled "fish", "chicken" and other more specific dishes such as "korma" or "rendang" should be used for that particular purpose only. Curry powders are often blended with water to a stiff paste before being fried. For maximum freshness, store in a jar in the freezer.

DAIKON: see RADISH, GIANT WHITE

DAL Also "dhal". Refers to dried legumes, usually husked and split. Varieties include channa dal or Bengal gram, which resembles a small yellow pea and is often sold split; moong dal, a small green pea; urad dal or blackgram dal, which is sold either with its black skin still on or husked; masoor dal (salmon-pink lentils); toor, tuvar or arhar dal, a pale yellow lentil which is smaller than the Bengal gram; and kabuli channa or chickpeas, also known as garbanzos.

DASHI A stock made from dried kelp and dried bonito flakes, the basis of Japanese soups and sauces. Instant dashi granules (dashi-no-moto) are sold in glass jars in Japanese stores.

DAUN KESUM This pungent herb (Polygonum hydropiper) has long, pointed green leaves tinged with purple. Used in Vietnamese table salads and other Asian dishes.

DEVIL'S TONGUE A greyish-brown mass made from a starchy root known as devil's tongue (konnyaku). It is sold in plastic packets and used in Japanese soups, one-pot cookery and to make noodles called shirataki konnyaku. Keep refrigerated.

DRIED MANGO POWDER Dried and ground unripe mangoes, used to give a sour tang to some Indian dishes. If unavailable, use a squeeze of lemon juice.

FENNEL Only the seeds are used in Asian cooking. The spice smells of aniseed, and looks like a larger, paler version of cumin. Used to add a sweet fragrance to Malay and Indian dishes.

FENUGREEK These almost square, hard yellowish-brown seeds are strongly flavored and generally used whole in southern Indian dishes and frequently in pickles and fish curries. Fenugreek leaves are eaten as a vegetable and because of their rather bitter taste, are combined with other greens or potatoes. Substitute with spinach if fenugreek leaves are not available. The dried leaves (methi) are sometimes used as a seasoning.

FISH SAUCE The distinctive nam pla, made from salted, fermented fish or prawns, is used in Thai and Vietnamese marinades, dressings and dipping sauces. Good quality nam pla is golden-brown in color and has a salty, pungent flavor.

FIVE-SPICE POWDER A Chinese spice combination of star anise, Sichuan peppercorns, fennel, cloves and cinnamon. A very strong seasoning, so use in small amounts.

GALANGAL A member of the ginger family, used in Thai, Malay and Nonya dishes. Peel off the tough skin before pounding or slicing. The young, pinkish galangal is the most tender and imparts the best flavor. Slices of dried galangal (sometimes sold under the Indonesian name, laos) must be soaked in boiling water for about 30 minutes until soft before use. Jars of tender, sliced galangal packed in water from Thailand make an adequate substitute for the fresh root. As a last resort, use the powdered form (1 teaspoon = 2.5 cm/1 in).

GALAN GAL, LESSER A white, ginger-like rhizome believed to have medicinal properties. Do not confuse with the fragrant greater galangal used in Southeast Asia. Omit if unavailable.

GARAM MASALA An Indian blend of several strongly aromatic spices designed to add flavor and fragrance to meat dishes. Powdered garam masala can be bought from stores specialising in spices. Store in a jar in the freezer.

GARLIC Widely used as a flavoring and for its medicinal qualities. It is often pounded or puréed before use in curries. Garlic cloves are often much smaller in Southeast Asia than in Western countries, so adjust to taste.

GINGELLY OIL A light oil made from unroasted sesame seeds, quite different in flavor from Chinese sesame oil. It adds a distinctive touch to Indian pickles.

GINGER This pale, creamy yellow root is widely used not just to season food but for its medicinal properties. Always scrape the skin off fresh ginger before using, and do not substitute the powdered. Store in a cool, dark place. To make ginger juice, finely grate about 8 cm (3 in) fresh ginger. Squeeze it little by little in a garlic press, or wrap in cheesecloth and squeeze to extract the juice. Depending on the age of the ginger (young ginger is far more juicy), you will obtain 1-2 tablespoons of juice. Pickled ginger (benishoga or gari), sometimes dyed red, is sold in jars and widely used as a garnish. Slender pink young ginger shoots are also pickled and sold in jars.

GINSENG A highly prized medicinal root, sometimes used in cooking. Available from Chinese medicine shops.

GREEN PEPPER, JAPANESE Tiny slender green peppers which have none of the spiciness of green chilies. Eight japanese peppers are the equivalent of a green capsicum. The latter is closer in taste to Japanese peppers and makes a better substitute than seeded green chilies.

HOISIN SAUCE A sweet sauce made of soya beans, with spicy and garlicky overtones. Used to season meat and served as a dipping sauce. Refrigerate the jar after opening.

HORSERADISH See WASABI

IKAN BILIS See ANCHOVIES, DRIED

JACKFRUIT A large, green fruit with a tough, knobbly skin. The segmented flesh is sweet and perfumed when ripe. In Vietnam, young jackfruit, which is whitish in color, is used as a vegetable.

JAGGERY A crude sugar popular in Sri Lankan cookery most commonly made from cane sugar and the sap of coconut or palmyrah palms. Southeast Asian palm sugar makes an acceptable substitute, or use soft brown sugar.

JASMINE ESSENCE The heady perfume of fresh jasmine flowers, soaked overnight in water, adds a unique fragrance to many Thai desserts and cakes. Substitute bottled jasmine essence.

KAFFIR LIME Also known as fragrant lime, this citrus fruit has intensely fragrant skin but virtually no juice. The grated skin or rind is added to food, while the fragrant leaves are used whole in soups and curries, or shredded finely and added to salads. Round yellow-skinned limes slightly larger than a golf ball (jeruk nipis) and small, dark green limes (jeruk limau) are used in Indonesia and Malaysia for their juice. Use lemons if limes are unavailable.

KALE Known also as gai Ian, this vegetable is enjoyed for its firm texture and emphatic flavor. Only the leaves and tender portions of the stems are eaten. Peel and halve lengthwise if they are thick. Broccoli stems are a good substitute.

KANGKONG See WATER CONVOLVULUS.

KELP See SEAWEED

KENARI A soft, oily nut found in Maluku; the almond is the closest substitute.

KENCUR Kaemferia galanga is sometimes incorrectly known as lesser galangal; the correct English name is zedoary. Kencur has a unique, camphor-like flavor, so use sparingly. Wash and scrape off the skin before using. Dried sliced kencur (sometimes spelled kentjoer) or kencur powder are substitutes. Soak dried slices in boiling water for 30 minutes; use ½-1 teaspoon of powder for 2.5 cm (1 in) fresh root.

KINOME Their refreshing, minty taste makes the leaves of the prickly ash a popular garnish. Available in Japanese stores, they will keep refrigerated for about 1 week, or use watercress.

KRACHAI This rhizome, sometimes referred to as "lesser ginger", looks like a bunch of yellowish-brown fingers. Enjoyed for its mild flavor and crunchy texture. Dried krachai is a poor substitute; omit if the fresh is unavailable.

KRUPUK Also known as prawn crackers, these dried wafers made from tapioca flour, prawns or fish are a popular snack and garnish. Dry thoroughly and deep-fry in oil until they puff up and become crisp.

LADIES' FINGERS See OKRA.

LAKSA LEAF See DAUN KESUM

LEMONGRASS A lemon-scented plant that grows in clumps. Use only the bottom 2-4 in (5-10 cm) portion. If it is to be pounded or blended to a paste, discard the outer leaves and use only the pale, tender part. Or bruise the stem before adding to stews. Also available in fresh, frozen, dried and powdered form. About 1 teaspoon powdered equals one stalk.

LILY BUDS, DRIED The Chinese call these "golden needles" because they are thin and golden in color. They are usually knotted for a neater appearance and added to Chinese and Burmese soups or vegetable dishes. No substitute.

LIME Various types are used. Large limes are about the size of a small egg with a greenish-yellow skin, and have a tart flavor similar to lemons. Small green limes, frequently known as kalamansi, are about the size of a walnut and have a less acidic, more fragrant juice. These are preferred for squeezing over noodle dishes and into sambals. See also KAFFIR LIME.

LOOFAH A gourd with an earthy flavor, often used in Vietnamese soups. Any type of gourd can be substituted.

LOTUS The tumescent root has a delicious crunchy texture and decorative appearance when sliced, making it a popular vegetable and garnish in Japanese and Chinese cooking. Its seeds are used fresh for sweets or dried in stews. Soak dried lotus nuts in boiling water for 1 hour, peel, and poke out the central core with a thin skewer or toothpick. (Canned lotus nuts normally have this core already removed.)

MACE The lacy orange-red covering or aril of the nutmeg seed. Used in spice mixes and garam masala for flavoring sweet and savory dishes. For maximum flavor, grind as required.

MINT Peppermint and spearmint are often used in salads and as flavor accents. See also DAUN KESUM.

MIOGA BUD This pretty pale pink bud with green tips, a member of the ginger family, is used for its spicy flavor and appearance in some Japanese dishes. No substitute.

MIRIN A bottled sweet rice wine used in Japanese cooking. If mirin is not available, use 1 teaspoon sugar as a substitute for 1 tablespoon mirin.

MISO A protein-rich salty paste of fermented soya beans, the mainstay of Japanese soups. Many different types are available, varying in taste, texture, color and fragrance. The most common are red miso, which has a reddish-brown color and an emphatic flavor, and white miso, which is actually golden-yellow in color, has a lighter flavor and is less salty than the red variety, making it ideal for soups and dressings. Plastic bags or tubs of miso are generally sold in Japanese or health-food stores.

MITSUBA Both the stems and leaves of this decorative herb, a member of the parsley family, are used in Japanese cuisine. Parsley makes an acceptable substitute, although the flavor of mitsuba is more like celery.

MONOSODIUM GLUTAMATE (MSG) Some cooks in Asia make use of this taste enhancer. If you use only top quality ingredients, there should be no need for MSG.

MORNING GLORY See WATER CONVOLVULUS

MUNG BEANS Husked, dried green mung beans are known as yellow mung beans. Sprouted beans have a subtle flavor and a slight crunchiness. In Vietnam, yellow beans are used to make yellow bean sauce or other sauces. The starch from the beans is processed into cellophane noodles.

MUSHROOMS DRIED Black (shiitake) mushrooms are prized in Japanese and Chinese cooking for their flavor and texture. Soak in warm water for 15-20 minutes before use and discard the fibrous stems. Do not substitute with European dried mushrooms. Fresh shiitake are increasingly available outside Asia.

Fresh and delicate sheathed straw mushrooms are excellent in soups and vegetable dishes. Button mushrooms and the large, bland oyster variety are good for stir-frying. Golden mushrooms (enokitaiki), clusters of slender cream-colored stalks with tiny caps, are available fresh and tinned-discard the tough ends before use.

Reddish-brown nameko mushrooms have a slippery texture and attractive reddish-brown cap; they are more commonly found in jars or tins. See also CLOUD EAR FUNGUS.

MUSTARD OIL Oil made from ground mustard seeds is used as a cooking medium in some parts of India, particularly in Bengal. The oil gives a distinctive flavor to the food and is worth looking for in Indian grocery stores. Substitute any refined, flavorless vegetable oil.

MUSTARD SEEDS Both yellow and brownish-black mustard seeds are used in Indian cuisine. They are not interchangeable.

NIGELLA Often referred to as onion seeds, these small, black seeds are known as kalonji in India. Omit if not available. If specified for Indian breads, substitute with black sesame seeds.

NOODLES Both fresh and dried noodles made from either wheat flour, rice flour or mung bean flour are used in Asian cooking. The most popular types are fresh yellow or "Hokkien" noodles, spaghetti-like noodles made from flour and egg; dried wheat-flour noodles, plunged into boiling water to soften; fresh flat rice-flour noodles, ribbon-like noodles about 1 cm (½ in) wide, used in soups or fried; fresh laksa noodles, which look like white spaghetti; dried rice-flour vermicelli, sometimes known as rice-stick noodles; and dried mung bean noodles, generally used in soups and sometimes referred to as "glass", "jelly" or "transparent" noodles.

In Japan the wheat noodle, udon, comes in various widths and is either flat or round. Packets of dried udon, whitish-beige in color, are readily available in Japanese stores. Somen are also made from wheat, but are very fine and white in color. Soba are made from buckwheat, and are sometimes flavored with green tea. Devil's tongue is used to make shirataki konnyaku-soak in hot water until they swell and become transparent.

NORI See SEAWEED

NUTMEG A native of the Moluccan islands, the nutmeg is actually the seed of a fleshy fruit. Try to purchase whole if possible and grate as required.

OIL, COOKING Blended vegetable oils (never olive oil) are used by Chinese cooks for frying. Peanut oil is sometimes specified for its distinctive flavor.

OKRA A green, ridged vegetable about 2 ½-8 in (7-20 cm) long, favoured by Indians and Southeast Asians as a vegetable. Has a mucilaginous quality. Also known as ladies' fingers.

ORANGE PEEL, DRIED Dried orange peel is added to slow-cooked dishes for flavor. Although usually available in Chinese stores, fresh peel can be used as a substitute.

OYSTER SAUCE A thick sauce made from ground oysters, water, salt, cornflour and caramel coloring, used primarily to flavor stir-fried vegetables and meat. It is commonly used in Chinese cooking. Refrigerate after opening. Look for MSG-free brands.

PALM SUGAR Made by boiling down the sap of various palm trees, usually sold in solid cakes or cylinders and varies in color from gold to light brown. If unavailable, substitute with soft brown sugar or a mixture of brown sugar and maple syrup. To make palm sugar syrup, combine equal amounts of chopped palm sugar and water (add a pandan leaf if it is available). Bring to the boil, simmer for 10 minutes, strain and refrigerate.

PANDAN LEAF A fragrant member of the pandanus or screwpine family, pandan leaf is used to wrap seasoned morsels of chicken or pork, and added to various cakes and desserts. Bottled pandan essence can be used as a substitute in sweets.

PAPADS Also known as poppadum, these wafer-thin discs of seasoned wheat and lentil flour crisp up when fried in hot oil. Dry thoroughly before frying.

PEPPERCORNS Thought to be native to the Malabar coast of India, peppercorns are generally sold black (with their skins intact) and are frequently added whole to dishes. If crushing or grinding, do so just before use for maximum flavor and freshness.

PLUM SAUCE Sold in tins or jars, this piquant reddish-brown condiment is made from salted plums, chilies, vinegar and sugar. Refrigerate after opening. Available from Chinese stores.

POMELO A citrus somewhat similar to grapefruit, the pomelo is drier, sweeter and has a much thicker and tougher peel. It is eaten as a fruit or broken up for salads.

POPPY SEEDS Tiny white poppy seeds are prized for their delicate nutty flavor and used as a thickening agent. Soak in warm water for 10-15 minutes and grind before use. Substitute with cashews or almonds.

POTATO Yamato-imo, often referred to as a potato in Japan, is actually a type of mountain yam which is grated and used raw for its gluey texture and bright white color. Sato-imo is a type of yam with a much finer texture and slightly different flavor from Western potatoes. New potatoes make an acceptable substitute.

PRAWNS, DRIED see SHRIMPS, DRIED

RADISH, GIANT WHITE A vegetable about 6-10 in (15-25 cm) long, widely used in Japanese cooking. Daikon is shredded and used raw as a garnish, sliced for stews and stir-fries, and pickled. Preserved salted radish keeps almost indefinitely on the shelf, and is often added to rice porridge (congee) and other dishes.

RED BEANS Dried red azuki beans are used in Chinese and Japanese sweets, or cooked with sugar to make red-bean paste, a popular filling for buns and pancakes. The paste is also sold in tins.

RED DATES Valued for their medicinal properties as well as their prune-like flavor, these are added to soups. Soak in boiling water for 1 hour to soften before use.

RICE Many types of rice are eaten throughout Asia, the most popular for daily meals being fragrant long-grain jasmine rice. Some Indian recipes call for the nutty-flavored basmati rice. White and brownish-black glutinous rice are used in sweet and savory dishes. The absorbency of rice is affected by its age-young rice absorbs less water than older rice. When you use a new packet of rice, be conservative when adding water until you find out its degree of absorbency.

Wash rice thoroughly in several changes of water before using. To make plain rice, measure a minimum of ½ cup of rice per person and wash thoroughly. Put into a heavy-bottomed pan with enough water to cover the rice and come up to the level of the first joint on your forefinger (about ¾ in or 2 cm). Cover the pan and bring to the boil over high heat. Set the lid slightly to one side, lower heat slightly and simmer until all the water is absorbed and dimples or "craters" appear in the top of the rice. Reduce heat to the absolute minimum, cover the pan and leave the rice to cook for at least another 10 minutes. Remove the lid, fluff up the rice with a fork (do not stir before this), wipe any condensation off the lid and cover the pan. Set aside until required. The rice should keep warm for at least another 15-20 minutes.

Short-grained rice with a somewhat sticky texture is used in Japan. Do not serve fragrant Thai or basmati rice with Japanese food.

RICE PAPER Made from a batter of rice flour, water and salt, then steamed and dried in the sun on bamboo racks. Moisten with a little tepid water before using to make Vietnamese rolls.

RICE WINE See CHINESE RICE WINE

ROCK SUGAR Crystallized cane sugar, sold in chunks in boxes.

Added to Chinese red-braised dishes, desserts and drinks.

ROSE ESSENCE A heady fragrance from the Middle East, used in Malay desserts, drinks and some Indian rice dishes.

SAFFRON The world's most expensive spice, actually the dried stigma of a type of crocus. Infuse saffron strands in warm milk before adding to rice and dessert dishes. Store saffron in the freezer as it loses its fragrance quickly.

SAGO PEARLS The pith of the sago palm that has been ground to a paste and pressed through a sieve. It is very glutinous, with little taste, and used in Asia for desserts.

SAKE Popular as a drink, sake or Japanese rice wine is available in many different qualities and is an important cooking ingredient. It is almost always heated to get rid of the alcohol for Japanese cuisine. A bottle of sake will keep for about a month after opening. If red sake is not available, use regular sake.

SALAM LEAF A subtly flavored leaf of a member of the cassia family, infused in curries. If you cannot obtain fresh or dried leaf, omit altogether.

SALTED FISH Salted and sun-dried freshwater fish that do not require soaking before using. Grill whole or cut into fine slices and fry to a crisp, and serve as a condiment. Salted fish is also sometimes pickled.

SALTED CABBAGE Various types of heavily salted cabbage are used in some Chinese and Nonya dishes; the most common is made from mustard cabbage. Soak in fresh water for at least 15 minutes to remove excess salt, repeating if necessary.

SALTED DUCK EGG A popular accompaniment to rice and savory Malay dishes. Wash off the black coating (often added to protect the egg), boil for 10 minutes, then cut egg in half while still in the shell.

SALTED SOYA BEANS Salty and with a distinctive tang, these are often lightly pounded before being used to season fish, noodle or vegetable dishes. Varieties packed in China are sometimes labelled "Yellow Bean Sauce". Mash slightly before using. Sichuan brands contain additional chili. Keeps indefinitely on the shelf.

SANSHO A peppery powder made from the seeds of the prickly ash, available in small glass bottles in Japanese stores. The dried Sichuan pepper is an exact substitute.

SCALLION Also known as spring onion, this popular herb is often used as a garnish and to add flavor to many dishes. It has slender white stalks with dark green strap-like leaves.

SEAWEED Used extensively in Japan. Dark green dried kelp or konbu is an essential ingredient in basic stock or dashi. It is sold in packets. Wipe clean with a damp cloth but do not soak before using. Other varieties include a fine golden kelp (shiraita konbu), mozuku, which are hair-like shreds, small squares of salted dried kelp (shio-kobu). and laver (nori), which is dried and sold in very thin, dark green sheets. Wakame is sold either dried or in salted form in plastic bags. Reconstitute by soaking in water.

SESAME Both black and white sesame seeds, the latter more commono are used in Japanese cooking. White sesame seeds are toasted and crushed to make a paste; if you don't want to do this yourself, you can buy either a Chinese or Japanese brand of sesame paste. Middle-Eastern tahina has a slightly different flavor as the sesame seeds are not toasted.

SESAME OIL Added to some Chinese dishes-usually at the last minute-for its fragrance and flavor, but never used on its own as a frying medium.

SESAME RICE CRACKERS Thin crackers made from rice flour sprinkled with sesame seeds. Grill or lightly bake before serving, and use like a cracker for dipping. Prawn crackers or puffed rice crackers may be used as a substitute.

SEVEN-SPICE POWDER A mixture of different spices and flavors, shichimi contains sansho, ground chilies, hemp seeds, dried orange peel, nori flakes, white sesame seeds and white poppy seeds. Shichimi togarashi contains chili. Both are available in bottles in Japanese stores.

SHALLOTS Small, round and pinkish-purple, shallots add a sweet onion flavor to sambals and curries. Packets of deep-fried shallots are generally available in Asian supply stores. If they lose their crispness, scatter in a large baking dish and put in a very low oven for a few moments to dry thoroughly. Cool before storing. Indonesian shallots are smaller and milder than those found in many Western countries.

SHARK'S FIN Transparent threads of dried shark's fin (generally sold in packets) are highly valued for their gelatinous texture and added to soups or sometimes cooked with egg. Soak in boiling water for about 30 minutes to soften before use. Shark's fin is also available canned.

SHISO The tangy, attractive green leaves of the Perilla frutescens or beefsteak plant, related to the mint family, are a common garnish in Japan. There is no substitute for the flavor of shiso leaf. The flower is often used as a garnish, and the tiny seeds for cooking. If the seeds are not available, omit as there is no good substitute.

SHRIMP PASTE Known variously as kapi, trasi, and belacan. A dense mixture of fermented, ground shrimp used extensively in Southeast Asian cooking. There are many different types, ranging in color from pink to blackish-brown. The former is good for curry pastes, the latter for making dipping sauces. Shrimp paste should be cooked before eating; if the recipe you are using does not call for it to be fried together with other ingredients, either grill or dry-fry the shrimp paste before pounding. To grill, wrap a piece of the paste in a piece of foil and toast under a grill or dry-fry in a pan for about 2 minutes on each side.

SHRIMP SAUCE, BLACK A very thick syrupy paste, usually sold in jars or plastic tubs, with a strong shrimp flavor. It is commonly added to rojak. a fruit and vegetable salad, and Penang laksa.

SHRIMPS, DRIED Small dried shrimps or prawns are a popular seasoning in many Asian dishes, particularly in sauces, condiments (sambals), and vegetable dishes. Choose dried shrimps that are bright pink in color, and soak in warm water for about 5 minutes to soften before use.

SICHUAN PEPPER A round, reddish-brown berry with a pronounced fragrance and flavor, used primarily in Sichuan cuisine and as an ingredient in five-spice powder. It is also known as prickly ash or fagara, and often sold powdered under the Japanese name sansho.

SOUR PLUMS Salty pickled plums (umeboshi) are very popular with plain rice for breakfast in Japan, as they are believed to aid digestion. These dull-red plums are available in jars, and should be refrigerated after opening.

SOY SAUCE Three types are used in Chinese cooking. Light soy sauce is thinner, lighter in color and saltier than black soy sauce. which is often added to give a dark coloring to a dish. Delicately flavored red soy sauce is seldom used and can be substituted with light soy sauce.

For Japanese food, use the Kikkoman brand. Tamari is very strong, thick and black and available from Japanese stores; dark soy sauce is a reasonable substitute.

In Indonesia. thick sweet soy sauce (kemp manis) is most frequently used as a condiment, followed by the thinner, saltier light soy sauce (kemp asin). If you cannot obtain kemp manis, use thick black Chinese soy sauce and sweeten with brown sugar.

SPRING ONION See SCALLION.

STAR ANISE A sweet-smelling star-shaped, eight-pointed pod with a pungent flavor of aniseed or licorice. Frequently used in soups.

STARFRUIT A star-shaped fruit, eaten raw and finely sliced. Young starfruit has a tart taste and is often served on the Vietnamese vegetable platter as a complement to grilled or fried foods.

SUGAR CANE Fresh sugar cane juice-extracted from the stalks by a crushing machine-is a very popular drink in Vietnam. In addition to the familiar uses of sugar cane, the peeled stalks are also used as skewers in cooking.

TAMARIND A large, brown pod with several seeds, tamarind has a tangy, acidic taste, and is a popular sour flavoring. It can be bought fresh, dried or in pulp form, and is most commonly sold in compressed blocks, with the seeds removed. The paste is used in hot and sour soups, and fresh crab dishes. To make tamarind juice, add 1 part pulp to 3 parts hot water for 5 minutes before squeezing to extract the juice. Discard the seeds and fibrous matter before using.

TAPIOCA The root of this plant (also known as cassava) and the tender green leaves are both eaten, though the leaves have to be cooked for at least an hour to remove the mild toxins. The root is grated and mixed with coconut and sugar to make sweetmeats. Fermented tapioca root is added to some desserts, while the dried root is made into small balls and used in the same way as pearl sago. Substitute spinach for tapioca leaves.

TAPIOCA STARCH Used as a thickening agent, and sometimes in the making of fresh rice papers. Combined with rice flour, it adds a translucent sheen and chewiness to pastries. Available in many Asian food markets.

TARO A barrel-shaped oval root, with hairy, brown skin and white flesh with purple-brown fibers, which can be used like a potato in soups. The tubers are best eaten when the fibers are small and barely noticeable.

TEMPEH Cakes of compressed, lightly fermented soy beans with a nutty flavor. Often available in health food stores. No substitute.

TURMERIC A bright yellow-orange tuber from the ginger family, turmeric is often used in curries and as a coloring agent. It is also used for medicinal purposes. Peel before using. Substitute ½ teaspoon turmeric powder for ½ in (1 cm) fresh.

VIETNAMESE MINT: see DAUN KESUM

VINEGAR Black, red and white Chinese vinegars are all made from rice, and as the flavor differs, be sure to use the type specified. Red vinegar has a distinctive tang, while full-bodied black vinegar. sometimes known as Tientsin vinegar, has a faint flavor similar to balsamic vinegar. Use sparingly as a seasoning or dip. Japanese rice vinegar makes an acceptable substitute for the white. There are no good substitutes for red and black vinegar. Slightly diluted cider vinegar can be used in place of rice vinegar.

WAKAME See SEAWEED

WASABI Indispensable in Japanese cuisine, and widely available in tubes. Wasabi powder (available in tiny tins), mixed with a little water 10 minutes before required, gives a much closer approximation of the freshly grated root.

WATER CHESTNUT Although it is troublesome to peel away the dark brown skin of this crunchy tuber, it's well worth using fresh water chestnuts if you can find them. Their crisp texture and sweet flavor make them ideal in salads, stir-fried vegetable dishes and desserts. Fresh yam bean is a better substitute for fresh water chestnuts than the canned variety.

WATER CONVOLVULUS This aquatic plant, a member of the convolvulus or morning glory family, is sometimes known as kangkong or water spinach. The arrowhead-shaped leaves and tender tips are usually stir-fried. Discard the tough, hollow stems. Young shoots are often served as part of a mixed platter of raw vegetables for dipping into hot sauces.

WHITE FUNGUS A crinkly golden-colored dried fungus that turns transparent after soaking. Prized for its chewy texture, and used in Chinese soups and desserts.

WILD GINGER BUD The pink waxy flower from a ginger plant, sometimes known as torch ginger (Etlingera elatior). Used in some Malay and Nonya dishes. No substitute.

YAM BEAN Known as jicama in the Americas, where it originated, this crunchy, mild tuber has a crisp white interior and beige skin, which peels off easily. It taste like a potato and apple cross. Excellent raw with a spicy dip, and can be cooked.

YUNNAN HAM A smoked salted ham used mainly as a seasoning. It is sold in tins.

YUZU ORANGE An orange-colored citrus fruit used for its fragrant rind. Lemon or lime rind could be used as a substitute, or else kaffir lime.

The traditional open hearth or irori is virtually a museum piece in Japan today