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A VOYAGE TO GREAT BRITAIN WITH FATHER


In 1865, Sir William took George and Anna for a trip to Great Britain. The excerpts below, from George’s diary written as he turned sixteen, will give some account of his impressions and activities on this his first trip across the Atlantic to the British Isles.


July 8, 1865


Sailed from Quebec this morning about nine. The St David sailed about 1/4 of an hour before us. Saw the falls of Montmorrency. met Magnet steamer going up, below Murry bay24 passed Cacouna at 1/2 past 7 saw Marquis house and beach, kept up in sight of St David all day gradually gaining passed her at nine, water phosporessant. weather very fine.


July 9th, Sunday


had service on board this morning. Sailed down the south coast all day Made the lighthouse near Gaspe this evening and started across for east end of Anticosti Gaspe on sight on one side and low land of Anticosti on the other. Passed several vessels this afternoon. St David out of sight astern. Had a little sail up this evening.


July 10th.


Had some sail up all day. Saw a whale. No land in sight all Day.


July 11th. Tuesday


Made the lighthouse at the entrance of Belisle straits25 early this morning. We could not see much of either the Labrador or Newfoundland coast on account of the thickness of the weather. Saw a great many icebergs near Belisle island26 and passed close to some saw one ship


Wedensday July 12th.


Went slow most of last night on account of fog. We are getting rooled and pitched agood deal today


Thursday July 13


Heavy sea and head wind disagreable weather


Friday July 14th.


Fine day and fair wind


Saturday July 15th.


Unpleasant wet day with very heavy swell.


Sunday July 16th.


A very fine day with fair wind. Mr Stag preached us a sermon this morning.


Monday July 17th.


Strong head wind and rain all day. At about eleaven o’clock this morning a steamer came in sight going the opposite way, the first sail we have seen since leaving the straits of Belisle; on Signaling she proved to be the St George from Glasgow for Quebec.


Tuesday July 18th.


Strong head wing, with heavy sea and rain all day.


Wedensday July 19th.


Made the lighthouse on Tory island very early this morning. When I came up on deck we were in sight of the Irish Coast we sat watching it till breakfast. Began to enter Loch Foyle27 soon after we had a very fine view passing up, we saw Greencastle and the fort near it, the former all covered with ivey. When we came up opposite to the telegraph station a pilot came on board also a boat for the dispatches. We then fired a cannon and soon after a steam tender called the lion came alongside and took off all the pasangers and lugage for Londonderry. Going out we passed quite close to the shore and had a very fine view of the Giants Causey28 and several other fine bold clifs and capes near it. We passed two rocks this afternoon with very fine lighthous upon them called the Maidens, and also had a distant view of the isle of Man

Thursday July 20th.

We passed the bell boy this morning, not long before breakfast, and when we came up from breakfast we were entering the Mercy,29 in passing up we had a very good view of both banks, we got to Liverpool about 7 o’clock and drove to the railway station where we left our luggage, we then drove to Mr Crows, and found his office not yet opened, when it was opened we found that he was out of town but papa had notes from him and from Scotland, we then walked down and saw {one of} the docks, we then walked to the public museum30 and spent an hour or two in looking over it, there was some very interesting machinary, two models of Liverpool, as well as Natural History specimens, products &c. We then went to St Georges hall which is a very fine building indeed. We then went back to the Railway Station and had dinner in a refreshment room. We waited in the Station and watching the election which was going on till the train started at 3.40 we arrived at London at 9.15 and drove to Dr Bigsby’s31 we had tea and then went to bed.


Friday July 21st.


{We} Had breakfast this morning at 9 then drove to doctors and afterwards Torn road where Anna was stopping saw her and then went to the bank drove round <seing seeing> doing some buisiness went in to a confectioners and had lunch, and then walked home up Oxford street stopping to get a map of London and make some other purchases, lay down and rested till dinner. After dinner papa went to see Dr Davis32 and I stayed at home had tea at half past nine and went to bed.


Saturday July 22nd.


Waited till nearly 11 for Anna and Mrs Simpson as soon as they came we drove to the houses of Parliment and spent some time going through them; we saw the throne in the house of Lords, <and> the house of commons, and St Stephens hall where there are statues of many noted men we also went down into a cloister under it which is a restoration of an ancient one which existed there before, we saw Westminster Hall and went into a court which opens off it which is the divorce court, and waited a little while to see what was going on. We next went to Westminster Abby and saw all the tombs of the kings and queens, as well as those of many other great people, a guide conducted us through the chapels where most of the tombs and monuments are explaining them as we went along. We then drove to the [blank in diary] where we saw a great many very fine pictures we then came home and had dinner. About 8 o’clock Dr Bigsby took Anna and I to Madame Toussauds where there are a great many wax figures of noted men and wimen we stayed there till nearly 10 o’clock when we came home, had tea and went to bed.


Sunday July 23rd.


Papa and Anna went this morning to hear Mr Spurgeon,33 and I stayed at home, in the afternoon, Dr. and Mrs Bigsby took Anna and I to a very beautiful garden near Regents Park to which they are subscribers, it is very nicely aranged and taken care of and there are several conservitaries in one of which there is a beautiful specimen of the Victoria Regina. Papa went out to church this evening but Anna and I stayed at home


Monday July 24th.


Drove over to Regents Park College this morning after breakfast and Papa left Anna and I there with Dr Davies till he went to see another gentleman when he came home we walked to the Zooligical Gardens and we walked all round them when we had seen them all we went back to Dr Davies and had dinner there Papa went out to do some buisiness and left us there all the afternoon, after tea he called for us and we went home by an omnibus, got home at 1/2 past 9 had tea and went to bed.

[There is a gap of several days in the diary]


Friday July 28th.


Started this morning about eleaven for Scotland had a very pleasant journey arrived at York about nine went to a hotel and went to bed


Saturday July 29th.


After having breakfast this morning we walked to the Old York Minster Cathedral and spent some time looking at it and its crypts and some old relics which are there preserved stayed to hear the morning choral service. We then went to the museum which has large grounds around it in which are a portion of the Roman wall and the ruins of an old abby or hospital in the museum are a lot of interesting Roman and Ancient British antiquities. We started in the train for Edinborough a little after two and had on the way a fine view of Newcastle from the high leval bridge, and also a good sight of Berwick. We arrived in Edinborough about 9 and after having stopped at Mr Bells went to bed.


Sunday July 30


Went to church this morning with papa and lay down and read in the afternoon.


Monday July 31st.


Started almost immediately after breakfast for the station and I waited there while papa called on a gentleman Started about eleaven for Musselborough arrived there and had dinner. Papa returned to Edinborough on his way to London between four and five in the <afternoon afternoon> {evening} we were watching the honey being taken from the bees.


Tuesday August 1st.


Intended to start at 8 this morning for North Berrick but put it off till ten. When we arrived we walked from the station to the house we are to occupy after dinner Charles and I went down on the beach and found two hermit crabs and a good many shells came up home and then went down again for salt water for the crabs. After tea we all went down on the beach for a walk and found some more shells.


Wedensday <July> August 2nd.


After breakfast Fred Alfred and I went down to the wharf to fish but we caught nothing we then came home and had dinner, After dinner I wrote letters to Mama, and Charly Davies, and a short scrawl to William and posted them. I then went down to the beach where the rest were and we took a walk along the sand we found some shells; hermit crabs, and shrimps for our aquarium; and we also got some whilks34 2 which were boild and we ate some after tea.


Thursday August <2> 3nd.


Went down to the pier and fished we caught two came home and rested till dinner; After dinner we all walked along the shore to the westward a good peace found some shells and other things. After tea I stayed at home and read


Friday August <3> 4rd.


Alfred Frederic and I went down and had a bathe before breakfast after breakfast we went down and fished we caught nothing worth keeping. In the afternoon we took a long walk to the eastward found several small fishes in the pools, and a nine rayed starfish. Charles came out <to> tonight <he> he arrived after tea and he and Alfred went out shooting and Frederic went with them they shot a rabbit and a hare.


Saturday August <4> 5th.


We went down to the <beach> pier to try and get a boat to go out shooting in but could not get one went along the rocks and then along the beech but they saw nothing to shoot. <We> I went down to the shore with Mrs Primrose and Marian and sat and read there after dinner. About four o’clock Alfred and Charles found a herring boat and they went out in it with Frederic and I round the Craig they shot one sea bird.


<Saturday> Sunday August 6th.


We all went to church this morning and some of them went to church in the afternoon but I stayed at home after they came back we went for a walk up the hill.


Monday August 7


Went down and fished but caught nothing worth keeping at the pier but went over to the rocks and {Alfred} caught one large fish. I stayed at home and rested in the afternoon and we went out for a short walk in the evening


Tuesday August 8th.


Went out to bathe this morning with Alfred and Frederic but the tide was so far back that we could not find a good place but we got some nice starfish, we came back late for breakfast. I stayed at home this forenoon, but went out to the rocks in the evening.


Wedensday August 9th.


I Went down to the rocks this forenoon with Alfred and Fred and as it was spring tides we got a long piece out and got a lot of sea urchins, some sea mice35 and [rarer] fishes and star-fishes. I stayed at home writing home in the afternoon, Alfred and Frederic went out to fish and caught quite a lot. We all went out for a walk down to the pier in the evening we sat there a while and then went home.


Thursday August 10th.


It was raining more or less all day today I stayed in and read, all the morning Alfred <Charles> {Frederic} and I went down to fish about four caught only one fish worth keeping. I got a letter from Paris from papa and Anna today


Friday August 11th.


After breakfast this morning Alfred <Charles> {Frederic} and I went to the sea urchin rock we got some sea urchins, sea mice Starfish &c after dinner we were prepairing what we got in the morning. Alfred and Frederic went to fish before tea but I stayed in. I was pasting on some stamps after tea


Saturday August 12th.


I got up this morning before breakfast and had a bathe with Alfred and Frederic. I stayed in and read in the forenoon, and went down to the sands in the afternoon. After tea Alfred, Frederic, Charles and I went out in a boat with two other gentlemen fishing for mackerell it was very rough and Alfred and Frederic were a little sick, we came back soon without catching anything. Aunt Uncle Frederic and I {then} went for a walk to the East Links.


Sunday August 13th.


I went to church this morning but stayed at home in the afternoon. In the eavening we all went for a walk to the Glen and back by the beech


Monday August 14th.


I went down to the pier this forenoon a while and came up and read a while before dinner. After dinner Uncle, Alfred, Frederic, Marion, and I went up the Law, but just as we came to the top and were expecting to enjoy the view it began to rain we got into the shelter of a ruined cottage till the worst of it was over and then went home. After tea we went out fishing in a boat but caught nothing we had however a very pleasant sail.


Tuesday August 15th


We went down this morning to the pier to try and get a boat but thought it would be better to put it off on account of the weather. Aunt Uncle and Louisa Cleghorn came to spend the day about eleaven but we could not go out all day on account of the rainy weather Frederic and I took a walk down to the pier in the evening


Wedensday August 16th.


I stayed at home this morning and wrote to William, but went down to the rocks before dinner to see how Alfred and Frederic were getting on with fishing. I read a while after dinner and then wrote to Mama and posted the letter I then went down to the pier with Alfred. After tea Fred and I went out in a little boat with some other boys to the sea urchin rock and back.


Thursday August 17


I went down to the pier this morning about 10 o’clock and stayed there a while. After dinner Alfred Frederic & the <& two> two Halls went out for a row round the black rock and back We came back and took Marian in for a while and then landed. After tea we went and sat at Miss {Matthiews} for a while and then went down to the pier coming back about dark.


Friday August 18th.


Alfred Frederic and I got up this morning before breakfast and had a bathe and also gathered some shells, I stayed in and read all the forenoon. In the Afternoon we went down to the pier and sat a while and then went out to the Craig and back in a small rowing boat. After tea I went out with aunt and bought a sponge took a short walk and then came home.


Saturday August 19th.


I got letters from home this morning by Charles and after I had read them We went down to the shore, and Alfred Charles Frederic and I went out to the craig in a boat, and then a good piece to the east of it, Alfred and Charles rowing we picked up a dead solan goose36 and Charles shot a Norry but we did not catch any fish After dinner we went down to try and get the boat again but could not get it, we then came up and Alfred and I were engaged most of the afternoon and evening skinning the solan goose.


Sunday August 20th.


I did not go to church today, but went out for a short walk in the evening on the shore.


Monday August 21st.


We had breakfast early this morning to let Charles off in time for the train. I went down to the beech after breakfast gathering shells and came up and read a while before dinner. I stayed at home all the afternoon but took a walk after tea down to the pier. Dr and Mrs Wilson were here spending the day today. Uncle went <home> back to Musselbourgh this evening.


Tuesday August 22nd.


It was raining most of today and I stayed in the house <nearly> all day reading &c till after tea when I took a walk down to the pier with Alfred, we caught a young sparrow, afterwards I went out and bought a pencil case.


Wedensday August 23rd.


I went down to the black rock this forenoon with Alfred and Frederic but we could not get on it because the tide was not low enough. When I came home a letter from Papa and Anna was waiting for me. After reading it I began writing home, and after dinner finished writing and, sent my letter away. I then went down to the pier and went out for a sail with Alfred Frederic, the Halls, and George Lees. We went away out to the west of the craig and then came back to the Pier, and landed some of our party, and then went out again, Alfred shot two Norries, and we caught a few fish. After tea I stayed in most of the evening, but took a short walk before dark.


Thursday August 24th.


I got up this morning and had a bathe with Alfred, Frederic, George Lees and Mercer. When I got home I was very tired so I lay down in bed while Alfred was skinning his Norrie; But he went away to the Bass with Marian and Mr Duncan before he had finished it. I then got up and began mine I worked till dinner, and after dinner I took a rest on the sofa for a while and then began again and finished at five, I then went over to Miss Matthiews for tea with Aunt and Frederic. After tea Fred, I and the Halls went town to the shore and were sailing boats till dark; when we came home they had returned from the Bass and Alfred had brought a young solan Goose with him.


Friday August 25th.


I stayed in part of this forenoon but afterwards went down to the beech calling at Miss Matthiews by the way with Aunt; I was sailing boats part of the time with the Halls and Frederic. After dinner I stayed in and read for a while and afterwards went down to the rocks and read with Alfred, and George Lees. <I> In the evening we went out for a short sail in the small boat, Alfred and Charles rowing


Saturday August 26th.


I stayed in the first part of this forenoon but afterwards went down to the shore with Aunt. In the afternoon I went down to the pier, and the rocks, and in the evening went down to the beech again.


Sunday August 27th.


I went to church this morning, and in the latter part of the afternoon went down with Charles, and Fred for a walk about the pier. After tea I took another short walk to the pier.


Monday August 28th.


I got a letter from Anna today. Alfred and I went out with the Lees in a rowing boat to the Craig and round it; Alfred had his gun and took several shots but killed nothing. In the afternoon Alfred Frederic and I went out again in a boat to the Craig, and shot a rabbit. I also wrote to papa this afternoon In the evening Frederick and I called at Miss Mathiews, and then went down to the pier with George Lees.


Tuesday August 29th.


We intended to go to the Bass this forenoon but it was too windy so we spent most of the morning about the pier. In the afternoon I was down at the pier again, and in the evening we went out in a sailing boat for Mackerell but caught none.


Wedenday August 30th.


I spent most of this forenoon down at the pier. In the afternoon we were all down to go the Bass, but it was too windy; I had forgotten that it was the day for writing home and came up just in time to write a short scrawl to Mama. In the evening we went down to the pier and fished, we caught more than usual. Aunt Alfred and I took supper tonight with Miss Mathiew.


Thursday August 31st.


I was packing up my trunk to go away this evening, when papa and Anna came in quite unexpectedly we went for a walk towards the glen and back by the harbour. Almost immediately after dinner we started to go up to the train, taking a sight of some pretty gardens on our way <and> papa thinking it would be best {for me} to go right on to Edinborough with him and Anna. We arrived in Edinborough about five and spent the Evening in doors.


Friday September 1st.


In the morning papa and I and Mr Bell went to the taylors and to get orders to see the regalia. <and> When we got home there was a letter from mama waiting, After taking a little rest Anna and I with Ellen and Margaret drove to the Castle and saw there the regalia &c, we then walked to Holyrood Palace,37 and saw all that was to be seen there and then drove home We meant to have taken a drive round the Queens drive in the evening but it was too wet so we stayed in amusing ourselves with games &c.


Saturday September 2nd.


In the morning after breakfast, we along with Ellen and Margaret went to the Botanical gardens, and when we had seen the gardens with the palm house, the greenhouses, &c., we drove to the railway station and after waiting in the gardens for a while, near the Scot Monument we started for Dalkeith, we arrived at Aunts in time for dinner, and stayed with her till six; amusing ourselves in the garden with Croquet &c, at six we started for Musselbourgh, and stayed there till nine, when we returned to Edinburgh


Sunday September 3rd.


I did not go out to church this morning though papa and Anna did. Alfred, and Charles Primrose were here for dinner. In the afternoon I went to Church with Christena, and in the evening Anna and I had a walk in the garden.


Monday September 4th.


This morning Papa and I went to the taylors, and then to the College where we met Christena, and Anna we went through the College Library, and the Industrial exhabition , afterwards we went, and I bought a pair of vases and then drove home leaving the rest to complete their shopping. In the afternoon we were packing up our trunks and in the evening we took a walk in the garden.


Tuesday September 5th.


We started for Liverpool this morning at ten, most of the Bells, and Alfred Primrose were down at the station, we had on the whole a pleasant journey, and arrived, at Liverpool, about six, (nearly an hour late) we got a cab and went to Mr Crows office and he got in, and drove down to the ferry, we got into the ferry steamer, and then took another Cab on the other side and drove to Mr Crows house. After tea we had a walk in their garden.


Wedensday <August> September 6th.


Anna and I went out this morning to gather blackberries, with the Children and papa went into town, he came back about one and after a lunch he and Anna started for Birmingham. In the evening I went out for a drive with Mrs Crow and two of the children.


Thursday September 7th.


I stayed in reading this morning and in the afternoon went over to Liverpool with Mrs Crow we went to the Egyptian Museum38 and then walked down to the wharf again shopping as we went. In the evening I was reading and walking in the garden.


Friday September 8th.


I got a letter from papa this morning I spent all the forenoon in the house and garden, as likewise the afternoon.


Saturday September 9th.


This morning, I had a letter to poast so I had to go away about 3/4 of a mile for stamps for it, when I came back there was a letter from papa, and, anna for me with one enclosed from Canada After dinner I went out for a drive, with Mr, and Mrs Crow, and three of the children we went to Parkgate, on the Dee, and back which is 16 miles, it rained a little as we were coming home; when we got back Anna had arrived back from Birmingham.


Sunday September 10th.


I went to church this morning with the rest, and stayed at home in the afternoon and evening


Monday September 11th.


This forenoon I occupied myself with reading, and walking in the garden. In the afternoon we went out for a drive, we first went to some quarries which are, about a mile and a half from here, and got some heather, we then drove to Birkenhead Park, we took a short walk in it and then drove home.


Tuesday September 12th.


I stayed in the house and garden today all day, reading &c. In the evening papa arrived from Birmingham.


Wedensday September 13th.


We started this morning after breakfast for the town, we walked down to the ferry, and got on board

The diary ends with George’s embarkation for Canada.

24La Malbaie.

25Strait of Belle Isle.

26Belle Isle.

27Lough Foyle.

28Giant’s Causeway.

29Mersey River.

30Now the Merseyside County Museum and Library.

31John Jeremiah Bigsby (1792-1881), a medical doctor, was also a well-known geologist who had done work on Upper Canadian geology.

32Benjamin Davies, a British geologist, was a friend of George’s father.

33Charles Haddon Spurgeon (1834-1892) was a prominent Baptist preacher who had opened the Metropolitan Tabernacle, seating some six thousand worshippers in 1861.

34Or whelks, marine spiral-shelled gasteropods, probably common whelks, Buccinum undatum, used for food.

35An iridescent sea-worm, Aphrodite aculeata.

36Gannet, Sula bassana.

37Palace of Holyroodhouse.

38Possibly the Merseyside County Museum and Library.

No Ordinary Man

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