Читать книгу No Ordinary Man - Lois Winslow-Spragge - Страница 15

A VOYAGE BY SAIL TO GREAT BRITAIN

In 1869, George sailed to Great Britain at age twenty to enter the Royal School of Mines in London. His father prepared the way for him by writing to his scientific friends in London. At this time he was provided with an invalid’s chair, which indicates that he was as yet not a strong young man. The trans-Atlantic trip George described as “not very pleasant,” as the following diary entries will attest:

Saturday Sept 11th. 1869.

Started from Montreal for Glasgow in ship Lake Erie {930 tons Capt Slater,} from Island wharf at 2.30 PM. after waiting on board from 8.30 AM which had been fixed the night before as the time. Just after leaving wharf in tow of two tugs the ship took the ground opposite the Richaleau wharf and reained there till both tugs were made fast alongside and drew her off. Anchored opposite Sorel at 8.30 PM for the night.

Sunday Sept 12th

Weighed anchor at 4.30, and proceeded down the river, passed Three Rivers at <ten minutes to> 10 o’clock. Passed Batiscan at ten minutes to 12 and the S.S. Prussian at anchor waiting for the tide. She caught up to and repassed us at 2 P.M. Passed Quebec at 6.30 and changed pilots without stopping. Passed S.S. Austrian inward bound 7.40 P.M. Wrote home; and sent the letter by river pilot a Quebec. Dropped anchor, half way down the Island of Orleans;⁴⁹ to wait for daylight and tide to go through the Traverse⁵⁰ at 8.30 P.M. Port anchor in about 10 Fathoms water 30 fathoms cable out.

Monday Sept 13 1869

Got anchor up and under way at 6 A.M. were delayed till then waiting for the tug which had gone to coal. Light winds and hazy. Passed the Besearch of Yarmouth N.S. in tow of Ranger, and Sunbeam at anchor near the end of the Traverse at 1.40 P.M. Pulled in the hawser <and> cast loose from tug Hero, and set sail at 2 P.M. Abreast of Murray Bay 3.30 P.M. 4.30 P.M. We passed the John Bunion in tow of Hero. Passed Wolfville at anchor 4.40. Abreast of Grosse Isle⁵¹ of Kamouraska light at 6.40 P.M. Opposite Pilgrims light {about 1 1/2 miles off} at 9 o’clock. Have had light S. and S.W breezes since the tug left us, gradually freshening, and going round more to the west. It has been a very fine warm day with a beautiful warm sunset over the north shore mountains. Made two sketches one of Goose point⁵² above Petit Mal Bay⁵³ and the other of Grosse Island lighthouse.

A great many white porpoises⁵⁴ round the ship all the afternoon and evening. About 8 o’clock counted 32 blowing in 30 seconds. Pilot said in conversation that formerly there was a regular cod and halibut fishery off Green Island⁵⁵ though they are not now caught in profitable quantities higher than Father point.⁵⁶ Also that there were plenty of lobsters there though none are now seen. That sea cows (Walruses) were caught all up the river the farmers using strips of their thick skins for calache straps,⁵⁷ and that Mille Vache shoal was called after these animals Wrote a letter home to send off by pilot at Bic. In case there should not be time to do so before he leaves in the morning.

Tuesday Sept 14th

Pilot left us at Bic 5 A.M. Fine westerly breeze. 10.45 passed Champion of Troon bound up. Fresh breezes W.S.W Barom. 30.35 sympiesomr⁵⁸ 30.195 Thermo 64. 3 P.M. Wind chopped into the Northward, braced up and trimmed the sails⁵⁹ 7 P.M. Point de Monts light bearing N.W 1/2 N. distant 18 miles. Wind chopped into NE. braced up and trimmed sails. 8. PM Barom 30.35. sympesom 30.410 Thermom 61.

A lovely sunset this evening over Cap de Monts splendid fiery clouds lying like bais across the west. The south shore a beautiful cool lavender. The sky behind the flaming clouds was a bright soft canary colour. Had the mackerel lines over this afternoon but caught nothing. I find the time passes away very lazily, especially with regard to reading. The soft flashing of the water and noise of the sails seems to exercise a mesmeric efect, and keep one from understanding anything but the most simple books. Took first lesson with quadrant today. 8 P.M. going 6 1/2 knots water phosphorescent where disturbed by ship

September 15 1869

A.M. Wind veering northwards 6 AM Trimmed yards⁶⁰ and set lower and <top> mast studinsails.⁶¹ 9 A.M. W end of Anticosty in sight. Light bore SE distant about nine miles. 4 1/2 points variation. Noon wind going westward with clear weather Remarkable hill bearing S. by west about 8 miles off. <2> 2 P.M. abreast N point beacon. Breeze freshening. 6.30 W cliff and beacon bore SW. by W. distant 7 or 8 miles. <3 P> Barometer 30.10 at 3 P.M. symp 30.15 Therm 58 1/2°. 8 P.m. Barom 30.10 symp 30.5 Thermo 58°

Only passed one ship and two schooners all day. We took the Canadian channel⁶² N of Anticosti intending to run through the straits of Belle Isle, the wind being favourable. It has been very cold all day. Passed down mid channel to far off to see anything but the outline of the Labrador and Antacosti coasts. Ship roaling and pitching a good deal and some water coming in by the scuppers. Saw some of the splendid cliffs on the N coast of Anticosti through the glass. Had the mackerell lines over in the morning but caught nothing. I tried <on> the towing net, but the ship was going too fast. 8 P.M. wind began to go [‘rount] towards N.E. 10 P.M. Wind about N.N.E. ship going 12 1/2 knots 10.30 wind went round a few points more yards had to be braced up.

Sept 16th. 1869

Fresh breezes and clear weather. 10 A.M. Wolf Island⁶³ bore NE by N. distant about 10 miles. Noon, strong breezes 3 P.M. Barom rising & a head sea coming. Breezes being contrary we gave into Belle Isle straits, and bore away for Cape Ray Latitude at Noon 49° 55’ Long 59° 17’ All stunsails out. 8 P.M. Barom 30.475 Therm 58° symp 30.275. Fresh breezes and clear weather. S.S. Very cold.

Friday 17th. Sept

6 A.M. Hauled up for cape Ray in all stunsails braced up. Set fore and afters.⁶⁴ Several ships under the lee bow coming up the Gulf. Barom 30.5 Therm 56° symp 30.4. Noon fresh breezes from the East. Barom 30.5 Thermom 55 1/2° symp 30.9. All sail set. P.M. Light winds and variable. 8 P.M. Cape Ray bore NNE distant 8 miles. Water very phosphorescent where disturbed by the ship. Had over the towing net and got several rich hauls. Entomostricans⁶⁵ Jelly-fish &c. [illustration in diary] S.S. most of day.

12. P.M. Light winds and variable

Saturday 18 Sept

A.M. Light and variable winds. 5 A.M. wind chopped up from N.W Trimmed sails. 8 Wind veering NE and E Barom 30.530 symp 30.4 Therm 56°. Noon light winds and clear weather. P.M. Employed washing down. 4 P.M. Wind veering SW [ous] starboard stunsails. Lat at noon 47° N Long by chronometer 58° 54’ W Saw [severas] ships schooners &c. A number of small birds, some sparrows, but mostly a small olive and grey flycatcher were about the ship all day; also a hawk which, caught and ate one of them. Caught several of the flycatchers and put them in the cabin where they flew about catching flies for some time. Tried the tow-net this A.M, and had a good haul of very small red bodies with protruding spicules. Watched the sun go down over the edge of the ocean, not a cloud intervening at the moment of contact it appeared thus, [illustration in diary] and also fore some moments afterwards. A {bright} projection seeming to rise out of the water to meet it. After the upper limb had dissapeared for some moments a small conical light remained visable pointing upwards. When the sun was just on the horison the strata of thin mist in the atmosphere made it to assume exactly the {banded} appearance of Jupiter, through a telescope.

Sunday 19th Sept

A.M. Wind veering SW, Trimmed in port stunsails set all fore and afters. 8.30 passed a light ship bound westward. Saw several large whales blowing. 10 A.M. passed a schooner at anchor on St Peters Bank. Noon Breeze freshening. Latitude obs 46° 24’ Long Chronom 56° 58’ W. 6 P.M. ship sailing 9 1/2 knots sea getting up. 6.30 passed a schooner running to westward. 7 P.M. commenced raining weather beomming thick. Barometer slowly falling since morning. At 7 PM Barom 30.25 symp 30.25 Therm 60°

Monday Sept 20th. 1869

Breeze still freshening with hazy weather and passing showers. 5.30 A.M. Passed Cape Race bearing NNE distant 5 or 6 miles, in main top gal studinsails.⁶⁶ Noon, strong breezes and hazy, with a rising sea Barom 29.9 Therm 59 1/2° symp 29.9 Lat by acc 46.53 Long 51.8 W

6 PM Breeze <freshening> falling and weather becomming thicker. Had cabin fire lit for first time. Blowing fog horn. 9 P.M. sounded and got bottom at about 45 Fath 11 P.M. Breeze almost gone. Tried tow net, and got a lot of the usual luminous entomostricans some jelly fish of this shape [illustration in diary] and some curious transparent animals of this form [illustration in diary]

Tuesday Sept 21

A.M. threatening to blow by sudden puffs and hazy in all fore and afters and light sails.⁶⁷ 3 A.M. blowing hard, close reefed the three topsails reefed and furled cources and furled topsails.⁶⁸ 8 AM strong gale wore ship Bar 29 symp 29.7 Noon strong gale with a very heavy topping sea. Ship making very bad weather of it. Wore ship to SE. Cabin filled with water first from sail locker, afterwards on the port side large quantities of water continually on deck rushing from side to side as the ship rolls. <ship> Sometimes shipped several heavy seas in succession and righted with great difficulty. Cargo shifting. Cabin stove broke adrift. Mate was nearly washed overboard.

Wednesday Sept 22nd.

{A.M.} More moderate but a heavy sea an barom rising set lower mizen top sail⁶⁹ and reefed fore sail 8 A.M. More moderate, set the three reefed up topsails whole fore-sail and reefed main cource.⁷⁰ Noon strong breezes, and passing cloudy weather with showers Lat obs 47° 48’ Long by chronometer 50.4 W

Bar 30 symp 29.75. 7 PM Breeze freshening in up mizen top sails

Thursday 23rd. 1869

Set sail. Daylight more moderate but very heavy head sea.

Set whole top sails courses staysail and main top sail.⁷¹ Tried to catch some gulls and petrals which were flying astern with a hook but the ship was going to fast and sea too heavy.

7 PM Bar 30.15 symp 30.15

Very heavy swell from the NE increasing much, took in most of the sails to keep her from pitching into it so much.

Friday Sept 24th.

Daylight more moderate swell more [easy] made all sail Barom 30.1 symp 30.1 Noon more moderate out all small sails.⁷² Lat obs 48° 40’ Long 45° 20’ PM wind veering aft and swell going down. Out all port, studding sails. A great many gulls and petrals were flying astern all day but refused to be enticed by the bait. 7.30 PM symp 30.1 Barom 30.3.

Saturday Sept 25th.

AM Freshening breezes with heavy rain 3.30 am wind veering right aft, in port studdin sails and mizen royal daylight still increasing with a topping sea. 8 am Bar. 30 symp 30 wind veering NW

Noon Bar 29.95 symp 29.95 strong breezes with a very heavy sea <with> wind running N with heavy squalls 2 PM breeze increasing in top gallant sails 4 PM still increacing with heavy and frequent squalls single reeffed⁷³ the top sails. 6 P.M in outer jib⁷⁴ and reefed the main course 7.30 in upper mizen top sail

Lat by Pole Star 50 25 N.

Saw a land bird on the ship today.

Sunday 26th. Sept 1869