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My Asian Pantry

These are tried-and-true Asian Ingredients that I always have on hand. Fortunately, many sauces and pastes are pretty similar across cultures, so I just buy one type Instead of having, say, both Japanese shoyu and Chinese soy sauce. I try to buy these essentials at an Asian market because they’re usually cheaper there, but some variation of all the Items listed should be available in the Asian/International aisle at your local supermarket If not you can also find them at a specialty market like Whole Foods or Trader Joe’s (or online). This section describes only a fraction of all the Ingredients used in Asian cooking. It would take whole volume to cover them all, so only the Ingredients used in this book are Included here.

CHINESE BLACK VINEGAR Also called Chinkiang black vinegar, this can be made from rice or other grains such as wheat, millet or sorghum. The best ones have a complex, smoky flavor developed over years of aging, reminiscent of a good Italian balsamic vinegar, which is a great substitute. My favorite brand, Gold Plum, is found in the bottled sauce aisle of the Asian market.

CHINESE COOKING WINE This aromatic cooking wine, also known as Shaoxing rice wine, is made by fermenting glutinous rice. I add it in moderation to marinades, braises and stir-fries for a little kick. I like LinChen's Michiu brand from California, but any additive-free brand will do. If I can't make it to the Asian store, I'll buy a bottle of pale dry sherry as a substitute. Because I don't have room for three different types types of cooking spirits, I also use it in recipes that call for mirin (adding a little sugar, because mirin is sweet) or sake.

Chilies

Chilies are a very important component of Asian cooking, adding both aroma and heat. Try to obtain a good balance of the two when selecting chilies, remembering that size and color are not good indicators of their potency. In all the recipes in this book, the amount of chilies you use is up to your discretion. The seeds are the most potent part of the chili, so remove them as desired. One caveat: Don't add so much chili that you cannot taste the sweet, salty and sour flavors that make up a dish.

DRIED RED CHILIES Dried chilies abound, but the small red ones used in Asian cooking tend to be arbol or Japanese chilies. Both are spicy, measuring no longer than 3 to 4 inches (7.5 to 10 cm). Use them whole, ground, crushed or roasted, with or without their seeds. Store them in an airtight container in a cool, dark place.

LONG RED CHILIES You'll find an assortment of long red chilies ranging in length from 4 to 8 inches (10 to 20 cm) at the Asian market. Most are nameless, and the only way to gauge their flavor is to try them. At the grocery store, you might find Fresno (sometimes called red jalapeno), cayenne, or Anaheim chilies; all are good choices. Use only the red, ripe fruits, not the immature green ones. Store them in a closed paper bag in the refrigerator for up to two weeks, or in plastic in the freezer for three months.

THAI CHILIES Thai chilies are only 1½ inches (4 cm) long, but these fiery little specimens pack a lot of heat into their little bodies. Extremely spicy, they can be used both fresh and dried and come in red, green and sometimes orange. When the green immature chilies ripen, they turn red. Keep in a paper bag in the refrigerator for up to two weeks, or freeze them fresh and they should keep well for up to three months. Arbol or Serrano chilies can be substituted if chilies are unavailable.

Long red chillies

Thai chillies

dried chillies

Asian Noodles

Chinese egg noodles

Rice vermicelli

Somen noodles

Cellophane noodles

Soba noodles

Lo mein egg noodles

Medium-width egg noodles

Thin flat rice noodles or sticks (for pho)

Stir-fry rice noodles (for pad Thai)

Pad Thai rice noodles

BUCKWHEAT NOODLES

Thin and brownish in color, soba (the Japanese name) is made from buckwheat flour, often with wheat flour added. Buckwheat is not a true cereal grain, but is related to rhubarb and sorrel, making it suitable for those who are gluten-free. Buckwheat-only noodles are available-just read the labels. A striking green noodle called cha soba is made with green tea. Although soba noodles are often served cold with a dipping sauce (page 88), they can be used interchangeably in any udon recipe. Korean buckwheat noodles (page 113) are chewier in texture, and may also contain sweet potato flour or arrowroot. Soba noodles are usually available dried in the U.S.

CHINESE EGG NOODLES

come in various widths and diameters, and are available fresh or dried. I stock up on both thin and flat dried noodles

They should be pale yellow in color-bright golden-yellow noodles usually contain food coloring. After a quick boil, I'll use them in stir-fried noodles or toss them with peanut sauce for a quick noodle salad. Fresh uncooked noodles can keep in the refrigerator for about a week. You can also freeze them for about three months. Don't thaw them before using, or they will turn soggy; simply boil them for a little longer than directed on the package. Thin spaghetti makes an acceptable substitute.

CELLOPHANE NOODLES

Made from mung bean starch (hence their other moniker, bean thread noodles), these translucent noodles have a smooth and slippery texture, making them perfect for soup-noodle dishes (page 126). Cellophane noodles are commonly sold dried in packages containing eight to ten bundles, each ranging from 1.3 to 2 ounces (40 to 60 g). Look for a brand that contains only mung beans and water, with no additives.

FINE RICE NOODLES This variety, called vermicelli or maifun, is great for stir-frying. Deep-frying turns them into a crunchy garnish or a bed for sauces.

MEDIUM PAD THAI NOODLES

Versatile noodles about ¼ inch (6 mm) wide, these can be used in soups, stir-fries, salads—and, of course, for Pad Thai (page 66). Find them in the Asian/international aisle of your local grocery store.

RICE STICKS are flat noodles made from rice and water—they contain neither mung beans nor wheat. Extremely popular in Southeast Asia, rice sticks come in several different shapes and sizes, which can be roughly classified into thin/small, medium and wide categories. They are most often available in packages containing 14 or 16 ounces (400 or 450 g) of noodles. Don't worry too much about the size and shape for the recipes in this book.

ROUND RICE NOODLES (BUN)

come in various sizes ranging from small to extra-large. Small round rice noodles are used for Vietnamese Noodle Salad Bowls (page 62). They bear a very close resemblance to rice vermicelli; place the two side by side, however, and you'll be able to tell that rice vermicelli noodles are thinner. These noodles are sold dried as wiry flat skeins or straight sticks in clear plastic packages.

THIN BANH PHO NOODLES

These noodles are ⅛ inch (3 mm) or less in width, and are most often used in soups, especially the popular Vietnamese soup-noodle dish pho (page 136). Sometimes they can be found fresh in the refrigerated section of Asian markets.

Asian Herbs

Cilantro (coriander leaves), lemongrass, Asian (kaffir) lime leaf and Thai basil are my favorite Asian herbs. While cilantro is easy to find, lemongrass, lime leaves and Thai basil are usually only available at Asian markets. However, I have seen lemongrass and lime leaves sold fresh and dried at specialty markets like Whole Foods in cities with large Asian populations. If you do have to make a trek to an Asian market to purchase them, take heart: all these herbs (except cilantro) freeze well—as do chilies. You can store them in the freezer for three to six months and they'll still be full of flavor. Just run them under hot water before using, or simply drop them into your soup or stew straight from the freezer. This means you'll only have to make that trek once every few months and you can still cook your favorite Asian dishes in the meantime.

Another solution is to grow Asian herbs at home. They can be easily cultivated in the garden or in containers, according to Wendy Kiang-Spray, master gardener and author of The Chinese Kitchen Garden: Growing Techniques and Family Recipes from a Classic Cuisine (Timber Press). She gives some growing tips below.

ASIAN LIME LEAVES (KAFFIR, MARKUT) These glossy forest-green leaves are wonderfully aromatic. Crumple them before adding to coconut-milk dishes, soups and braises for a citrusy, floral undertone. The unmistakable double-barrel leaves are best when fresh or frozen. Don't buy dried leaves if you can help it, as they lack aroma and flavor. Asian lime leaves keep for ten days in the refrigerator and up to six months in a zip-top bag in the freezer. If you can't find them, try substituting lime zest, lemon thyme, lemon verbena or lemon myrtle. If you live in a tropical climate, you can plant Asian lime trees in your garden. In other climates, grow them in containers and bring indoors during winter to protect from frost. Lime trees enjoy indoor temperatures around 60°F (16°C) or above, especially during winter months. Prune while young to encourage branching and a bushier plant.

CILANTRO (CORIANDER LEAF, CHINESE PARSLEY) is used to flavor marinades and is also added to noodles, soups and stir-fries as a garnish right before serving. The flavorful, earthy-tasting stems and roots are minced and thrown into curry pastes and stocks. Look for whole cilantro plants with roots at farmer's markets. To grow, buy starter plants or start from seed. To harvest fresh cilantro all season, sow seeds every two to three weeks for a continuous crop. As soon as plants are 3 to 4 inches tall with cuttable leaves, snip them for cooking. Cilantro is an annual and will need to be replenished when mature.

LEMONGRASS These yellowish-green stalks have stiff, lance-like leaves and impart a delicate citrus flavor to soups, curries, and stir-fries. Choose plump stalks that are firm and tight with no signs of mildew or rot. Wrap fresh lemongrass in moist paper towels and store in the refrigerator for up to two weeks. Or freeze them in a zip-top bag for three months. Lemongrass is available dried (at many spice shops), minced (in the freezer section of Asian markets), and as a paste (in the refrigerated produce section of mainstream grocery stores), but ultimately fresh tastes the best. Lemon verbena has a similar flavor. The easiest, cheapest and most rewarding way to start lemongrass is by taking a cutting from a friend or by finding find fresh green stalks at an Asian supermarket. Place healthy stalks in a glass of water. Change the water every other day or whenever it begins to look murky. Roots should appear within two weeks. When the roots are a couple of inches long and there is no danger of frost, the lemongrass stalks can be planted directly in the garden. Lemongrass can grow to at least three feet tall. Harvest as needed by cutting larger outer stalks at soil level.

Thai basil

Asian (kaffir) lime leaves

coriander leaves (cilantro)

lemongrass stalks

Trimming lemongrass: Peel away the loose outer layers. Trim about 1 inch (2.5 em) from the hard root and cut off the woody top where green meets pale yellow, leaving 3 to 4 inches (7.5 to 10 em) of the tender white core. Bruise the stem to release the aroma and oils. Throw it whole into soups and stews. To mince for stir-fries and pastes, slice the stem crosswise into the thinnest ringlets you can cut. Then rock your blade over the slices to chop them into confetti-sized chips. You'll get 1½ to 2 tablespoons of minced lemongrass for every stalk.

THAI BASIL The leaves of Thai basil are smaller and more pointed than those of the Italian sweet basil commonly used to make pesto. The burgundy stems are also a dead giveaway. Its flavor, much like licorice, is distinctive in curries and stir-fries. A mix of Italian basil and mint may be used as a substitute. To grow, start seeds indoors in early spring. Place about three seeds in a small pot; when they germinate, leave the strongest seedling and snip the others at the soil line. Water gently and grow on a sunny windowsill or under grow lights. When plants are about 4 to 6 inches (10 to 15 cm) tall and the soil outside is warm, transplant into the garden. Harvest regularly by cutting stems down to the second set of leaves. This encourages the growth of healthy, full, bushy basil plants.

COCONUT PALM SUGAR

I used to buy palm sugar in disks or cylinders from the Asian market, and it was a bit of a chore to prepare, because pieces have to be shaved off before measuring and throwing into dishes. Then I discovered granulated coconut palm sugar, and now I'm hooked!

It's so much easier to use, and I've seen it at just about every grocery store I've been to. Light or dark brown sugar may be used as a substitute in a pinch, but they don't carry the same complexity of flavor as palm sugar. Keep in mind that brown sugar is sweeter than coconut sugar, so always start off with less than the recipe calls for: Wholesome is a good brand, but even a generic grocery-store brand tastes fine.

CORIANDER SEEDS There are two types of coriander seeds; the tiny round tan ones with a lemony taste are most common. Like all spices, they are best when used whole. The green coriander leaf is what we call cilantro in the U.S. Store coriander seeds in a tightly sealed jar for up to six months.

COCONUT MILK is the creamy, sweet liquid pressed from the freshly grated flesh of mature brown coconuts.

I always have a few cans sitting in my pantry for the times I want to whip up a curry or make a sticky rice treat. I buy Chaokoh brand whenever possible. Before opening, always shake the can to mix the richer coconut cream that rises to the top with the thin milk below. Be aware that the large tetra-pak box you may find in the grocery store's refrigerated section isn't suitable for Asian recipes.

CURRY PASTES are a moist blend of ground or pounded herbs and/or spices. Thai curry pastes comprise fresh aromatics such as lemongrass, galangal and chilies that are pounded together into a paste. Red curry paste may also include red chilies, shallots, coriander root, shrimp paste and lime leaves. I applaud you if you want to make curry paste at home; it yields the best flavor and you can control what goes into it (especially if you want to omit shrimp paste and additives). But if you don't want to be hunting down a laundry list of ingredients, a store-bought curry paste such as the vegan Thai Kitchen brand works well and is available in the Asian/ international aisle of most grocery stores. Note that not all brands are vegan, so be sure to read the labels!

Mae Ploy, Lobo and Aroy-D curry pastes are available at Asian markets, while the Thai Kitchen brand can be found in the Asian aisle of most grocery stores.

DUMPLING WRAPPERS These wrappers, usually made with egg and wheat flour, are available fresh and frozen in square or round shapes and various thicknesses. They can be fried, boiled, steamed or even baked, resulting in different textures: crispy, springy, chewy, or soft as clouds. Dumpling wrappers are usually labeled to indicate their use: wontons, potstickers, siu mai or gyoza. Dumpling wrappers will stay fresh in the refrigerator for up to a week, or in the freezer for up to two months.

GALANGAL has an earthy aroma and a pine-like flavor with a faint hint of citrus; it is somewhat medicinal. As one of Southeast Asia's most popular aromatics, it is tossed into curries, soups and stews, as well as sambals and sauces. Be sure to remove it before serving, as it has a hard, chewy texture. Wrapped well, the roots will stay fresh in the refrigerator for up to three weeks, or frozen for up to six months. Galangal is available dried or ground (not bad, if used sparingly), but fresh has lots more flavor. Many recipes suggest ginger as a substitute, but I think the flavors are oceans apart! You'll find galangal in the refrigerated section at Asian markets.

Korean red pepper paste (gochujang) is available in bottles or big tubs.

Ssam-jang or ssam sauce (left) is a mixture of fermented bean paste and red pepper paste. It accompanies grilled meats wrapped in lettuce.

KOREAN RED PEPPER PASTE (GOCHUJANG) is made from fermented soybeans, glutinous rice, red peppers and malt. Read the labels and buy a brand without additives, especially MSG. Better yet, make your own (page 34). Store it in the refrigerator once opened and it will stay fresh indefinitely.

KOREAN RED PEPPER POWDER (GOCHUGAR) Made from hot Korean red peppers, this powder is a brilliant flaming red with a smoky, sweet smell. Some stores offer three grades of the powder. The fine-ground type is used for cooking and making Korean red pepper paste, coarse-ground is for making kimchi, and crushed flakes are for cooking and as a garnish. Store in a tightly covered jar or plastic bag in the refrigerator where it will stay fresh for several months. Most Asian stores carry gochugaru, but if you can't find it, make your own blend. I suggest 2 parts ground paprika powder, 2 parts ground ancho chili powder and 1 part cayenne or generic chili flakes. You'll get a combination of sweet (paprika), smoky (ancho), and spicy hot (cayenne).

Korean red pepper powder is available coarse (for kimchi-making) or fine (to make gochujang).

GINGER One of the most versatile and widely used ingredients in Asian cooking, fresh ginger has a warm, zesty flavor and fragrance that adds a spicy bite to both sweet and savory dishes. It is used smashed, grated, sliced, chopped, shredded and juiced. Look for firm, wrinkle-free rhizomes with glossy tan skin. Wrap ginger in paper towels, cover with a plastic bag and refrigerate. In my recipes, “chubby” refers to fresh ginger pieces that are about 1 inch (2.5 cm) in diameter.

KOMBU (KELP) SEAWEED

The Japanese name for kelp, kombu is a dark-green—al-most black-seaweed with a sweet, ocean-fresh scent. It is sold dried in ⅛-inch (3-mm)-thick pliable sheets about 10 by 5 inches (25 by 12.5 cm) in size. Kombu is used to make Dashi (page 29). Choose sheets that are very dark and wipe them to remove any grit, but don't rub off the white residue—this is not only safe to eat, but actually incredibly flavorful. Stored in a cool,.dark place, kombu keeps indefinitely. Icelandic dulse seaweed is a good substitute if your grocery store doesn't carry kombu in the Asian/international aisle.

MIRIN is a pale-gold spirit used in Japanese cooking to add subtle sweetness to salad dressings, marinades and stews. It was originally a sugar substitute during a time when sugar was scarce and expensive. Look for hon-mirin (true mirin), a naturally brewed elixir containing natural sugars; avoid aji-mirin or any bottle labeled “sweet cooking seasoning.” Opened bottles of mirin can be left on the shelf.

I've seen recipes where sugar is used as a mirin substitute (how things change!), but I mix ¼ cup dry sherry with 2 teaspoons granulated sugar.

MISO is a thick, rich paste made from fermenting rice, barley or soybeans. This flavorful paste is very similar to Chinese doubanji-ang and Singapore taucheo—they are all made from fermented beans (soybeans, broad beans or lima beans). I keep a big tub of (usually white) miso in my fridge, and use it in recipes calling for these other pastes too. There are various grades, colors and strengths, but the two most common are white miso (shiro-miso), a mild, sweet miso; and red miso (aka-miso) which has a higher salt content and an earthier flavor.

RICE We're a family of rice-eaters—I usually buy fragrant white jasmine rice by the 25-pound bag. For the sake of variety I sometimes make brown jasmine rice, which I buy in smaller 1- or 2-pound bags or from the bulk bins. Jasmine rice is an all-purpose type that goes with just about everything we eat. When I can, I buy Elephant or

Royal Umbrella brands. I also keep a small bag of Japanese sticky rice or sushi rice on hand. The stickier texture is better suited for making sushi and other Japanese-style dishes. I recommend the Kokuho Rose and Nishiki brands, which are grown in California.

NORI SEAWEED Most familiar as the wrapper for sushi rolls, nori comes in crisp, thin sheets pre-cut for this purpose, and ranges in color from a dark green to a deep purple. It is used not only to wrap sushi, but also as a garnish for soups. Keep nori in a cool, dark place, and store it wrapped up in plastic if possible. For a fun change, I like to substitute Kale “Chips” (page 26) over soups.

PANKO Panko are coarse breadcrumbs used in Japanese cuisine to coat deep-fried foods like tempura and tonkatsu.

They can be found in the Asian/ international section of most grocery stores in cellophane packages or canisters. The unopened packages last indefinitely. Once opened, panko should be frozen.

POTATO STARCH is the gold standard for making perfect Japanese kara-age (fried chicken), as it produces a light, crispy coating. While cornstarch is usually the thickener of choice in Chinese cooking,_ cornstarch and potato starch can be used interchangeably in both instances. Mix 1 part starch with 2 or 3 parts water to make a slurry. Bob's Red Mill sells potato starch in 24-ounce (680-g) bags that are available at many grocery stores.

PRESERVED RADISH some-times labeled salted radish, comes in both salty and sweet versions. While sweet is preferable for pad Thai, preserved radish is generally not very easy to come by, so just buy what you can find-sweet or salty, finely chopped, whole or in long strips.

RICE FLOUR usually made from long-grain rice, is the basis of rice noodles. It's also used for making sweets in Malaysia and Indonesia. Until just a few years ago, rice flour was only sold at Asian markets, but due to the high demand for gluten-free products, brands like Bob's Red Mill now offer rice flour in 24-ounce (720-g) packages through mainstream grocery stores.

SESAME OIL This thick, amber-colored oil is pressed from toasted sesame seeds. I use it as a seasoning, not a cooking oil—I like to drizzle it over stir-fries and soups and add it to marinades.

SESAME SEEDS My pantry is stocked with both white and black sesame seeds for sprinkling over salads and into dipping sauces. I also like to grind them into a paste for making noodle sauces and sweets. Toasting brings out their nutty flavor. They're available already toasted but you can do it at home, too (page 25).

Black and white sesame seeds. If possible, buy toasted seeds.

Darker sesame oil has stronger flavor. I use Kadoya brand.

TAMARIND is a popular souring agent in Southeast Asian cooking, with a more complex flavor than lime or lemon.

You probably know it as a key flavoring in pad Thai (see Tamarind Sweet and Sour Sauce, page 67), but its uses extend much further, to soups and stir-fries. I always buy “wet tamarind”—the sticky, coffee-colored pulp is pressed into semi-pliable blocks and packaged in cellophane. The pulp must be soaked in hot water to form a paste before using. Tamarind concentrate-processed pulp in a cylindrical container—is convenient, but the flavor cannot compare.

In a cool, dry place, blocks of tamarind last almost forever! Substitute lime juice if you must.

Seedless “wet tamarind” comes in clear cellophane packages, and is sold at Asian markets.

RICE VINEGAR The 24-ounce (71 0-ml) bottle I buy goes quickly! I use rice vinegar for pickling, in dressings and in dipping sauces; a few drizzles will punch up any dish with a mellow acidic flavor. In a pinch, cider vinegar is a good substitute. Try to avoid using white distilled vinegar, as it's much sharper. If you have no alternative, use less than what the recipes calls for.

SALT, PEPPER AND SUGAR

I buy fine sea salt because it is less processed than iodized table salt and has a more complex flavor: Plus, if you make fermented products like kimchi, as well as pickles, the additives in table salt may interfere with the fermentation process and/ or cause the brine to go cloudy.

Don't be mistaken, though—they both contain the same amount of sodium.

Although ground white pepper powder is more commonly used in Asia, I use black peppercorns, grinding them directly into my cooking. White pepper is just husked black peppercorns anyway, so which one you use is just a matter of preference.

Organic raw cane sugar is my preferred sugar: Eco-friendly and unrefined, it has the full-bodied taste of sugarcane and undergoes less processing than white sugar:

SAMBAL OELEK Chili paste, or sambal in Malay or Indonesian, is a popular condiment in Southeast Asian cuisine; it conveniently comes in a bottle. Indonesian sambal oelek is my favorite. Named for the grinding or pounding action used to make it in a mortar, sambal oelek comprises a mixture of fresh chilies, vinegar and salt. This fiery mixture results in a powerful flavor that complements almost any dish (see page 32). Kept in your refrigerator, sambal oelek will last indefinitely.

SICHUAN PEPPERCORNS

Sichuan peppercorns may resemble black peppercorns, but they are actually berries. They have a spicy, slightly woodsy flavor and leave a numbing sensation on the tongue. Before using, toast them in a skillet and crush them. To preserve their flavor, keep them in an airtight jar in a cool place. An intensely flavored peppercorn like Tellicherry is a good substitute.

SOY SAUCE There are many different varieties of this condiment, which is made from fermented roasted soybeans and ground wheat. Sometimes I'll stock both a Japanese-style and a Chinese-style soy sauce in my pantry. Japanese soy sauce (shoyu) contains more wheat (Japanese tamari, however, contains little to none) and is darker and less salty than the Chinese variety. Most of the time, I'll have just one or the other. You can hardly taste the difference in a cooked dish. Kikkoman and Pearl River Bridge make good soy sauces across the board.

SPRING ROLL WRAPPERS

are thin sheets of dough that range in size from 4 to 8 inches (1 0 to 20 cm) square. I prefer these to the thick wrappers usually used for fried egg rolls served at Chinese restaurants in the U.S. Spring roll wrappers can be used for Indonesian, Vietnamese, and Filipino versions of fried spring rolls. Choose paper-thin, translucent wrappers like the Spring Home brand, found in the refrigerated section at Asian markets.

Store dumpling and spring roll wrappers in the refrigerator or freezer, but let them come to room temperature before using. While assembling, cover the stack of wrappers with a damp cloth to keep them moist. The wrappers are very delicate and prone to tearing. If possible, buy the ones that are already separated, and always buy extra!

SRIRACHA HOT CHILl SAUCE

In the U.S., sriracha is synonymous with Huy Fong Foods.

The California-based company makes the sauce from chili peppers, distilled vinegar, garlic, sugar and salt. Their signature squeeze bottles with the green cap and a rooster on the front are a fixture on table-tops across the country.

STAR ANISE These eight-pronged star-shaped pods impart an intense licorice flavor and fragrance to braises and soups. Hard and reddish-brown, star anise is usually sold in plastic bags; it should be stored in an airtight jar away from light and heat. Both star anise and aniseed contain the essential oil anethole, and one can be substituted for the other.

STICKY RICE Also called glutinous rice, it comes in two colors-white and purple. White sticky rice—which is not to be confused with Japanese sushi rice—turns from opaque to translucent and clumps together once it's cooked. Whole-grain purple sticky rice has a sweet, nutty taste and is commonly used for making desserts. Both types are usually found only at Asian markets. If you can't find white sticky rice, use purple.

TOFU is a high-protein, low-fat wonder that is made by coagulating fresh soy milk with a calcium compound to form curds, which are then pressed together into cakes. Tofu comes in several varieties, ranging from silky-soft and fragile to firm and dense. The type you use will depend on your cooking method, and sometimes your taste. House, Sunrise and Sun Luck are good brands available at many markets, both specialty and mainstream.

Delicate silken tofu is only suitable for soups, braises and desserts. Don't try to deep-fry silken tofu, as it can react dangerously with hot oil.

Medium-firm (momen) tofu can be battered, baked, boiled or braised.

Firm or extra-firm tofu can be sliced, diced and cubed; it is sturdy enough for stir-fries and deep-frying. Extra-firm is drier and not as silky in texture.

DRAINING TOFU Tofu should always be drained—or at least blotted—before using, especially when deep-frying. Cover a cutting board or rimmed plate with two layers of paper towels or non-terry kitchen towels. Place the tofu on top and cover the tofu with two layers of fresh towels. Carefully place a heavyweight, such as a book or pot, on the tofu. Drain for 15 minutes, changing the towels as needed.

Firm and medium tofu are the most versatile types.

TURMERIC imbues dishes with a peppery, musky flavor. The fresh rhizome has a rich orange tint and a gingery taste that is lacking in the ground dried form. However, the recipes in this book call for only the powdered version. Look for turmeric powder that is a pure deep yellow or gold. Store in an airtight container.

VEGETABLE OIL With their neutral flavor and high smoke point, vegetable oils (corn, peanut, safflower, soybean, sunflower) are the best choices for Asian cooking. I generally use organic cold-pressed sunflower oil. Feel free to use your choice of oil, but note that different oils add slightly different flavors to your dishes. It's best to experiment with a variety of oils for different purposes.