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Preparing Seasonal Vegetables The Flavorful Asian Way

When I was growing up in Singapore. I didn’t yet understand the concept of eating and cooking seasonally, or what is now known in the U.S, as the "farm-to-table” movement The tropical climate meant we only had two "seasons”—hot and wet and hot and dry. And since the island-state imported most of its food, many of the same items were available year-round (except for the "King of Fruits.” the durian, which I looked forward to every June and December). My childhood meals usually consisted of white rice accompanied by one or two vegetable dishes, an egg, meat or fish dish, and/or a soup. One-pot meals like nasi goreng (Indonesian fried rice) and mee soto (noodles in turmeric-spiced broth) featured rice or noodles studded with tiny bits of meat and showered with fresh vegetables, herbs, spices and chilies. This diet is a perfect example of the peripheral role meat plays in the average Asian diet.

When I moved to Seattle for college. I was shocked to learn that many of the fresh fruits and vegetables I had taken for granted back home were hard to come by. And even when available, they were only sold at certain times of year. In their place I found strange items like fennel, crookneck squash and parsnips. My introduction to the seasonal food-growing cycle was also a rude awakening, but I quickly learned to adapt.

Today, my edible inclinations stem both from my cultural upbringing and a conscious lifestyle choice. My affinity for seasonal produce grown by local farmers developed while managing a farmer's market in Pacific Grove. California. I was at the market every week, getting to know the people who grew my food and discovering all their wonderful locally grown produce. Friendly farmers gave me samples of their best wares, and cooking suggestions were always forthcoming. I was taught to sauté Swiss chard with potatoes and onions and wrap this filling up in fresh tortillas. I learned to peel and slice broccoli stems and toss them with a red-wine vinaigrette dressing to make a crunchy and delicious salad. As a result I’m a full-fledged, card-carrying member of the farm-to-table club, eating whatever is grown locally according to the rhythm of the seasons.

I bring my son to the farmer’s market to show him how to select fresh produce.

Red and Golden Beets in Green Curry (page 106)

My mom, Juliana taught me the finer points of Indonesian cooking. I still defer to her.

The benefits of local and seasonal eating are manifold, including grocery savings and a smaller carbon footprint Foods in season are harvested and sold at the peak of their availability, making them cheaper to harvest and transport But most of all, foods in season are at their freshest and most flavorful. Japanese food expert Hiroko Shimbo uses the term shun to describe the magic moment when ingredients are at peak quality. For example, asparagus becomes shun in early summer when they are bursting with flavor, and tender and juicy. Spicy-crisp daikon radish is shun in winter, as are sugar-sweet English peas in springtime.

The Asian Spark

I've always known that Asian cultures approach vegetables with creativity and spark. This is no coincidence, as much of Asian cooking is authentically vegetarian—and very often vegan.

The key to cooking vegetables is understanding how to blend flavors, textures, aromas and colors—all trademarks of Asian cooking—to create dishes that truly sing.

Asian cooks tend to combine contrary flavors, and love to play with the four basic tastes of sweet sour, salty and bitter. If you've had a bowl of tom yum soup or a plate of sweet-and-sour pork, you'll agree that Asian cooks are masters at balancing these tastes to create a culinary symphony.

The fifth taste, umami, is another important component in Asian cooking. The word umami has been used in Japan for hundreds of years to signify something delicious. Yet umami's true qualities remain elusive. Simply put umami is the satisfying flavor of protein— which makes everything delicious.

"Secrets" of Asian Cooking

Think of this cookbook as an Asian cooking "tell-all" sharing secrets used throughout Asia to make dishes more flavorful and more nuanced.

Here's a sneak peek

Harmonizing the contrasting flavors of ingredients like palm sugar (sweet), soy sauce (salty), tamarind juice (sour), and chili paste (spicy) elevates a vegetable dish from ordinary to oh-so delicious.

My mom invented a yu sheng (raw fish salad) for our Lunar New Year celebration.

Vegetable and Egg Donburi Rice Bowl (page 112)

Fun on Portland, OR, KATU's "AM Northwest" cooking with the late Dave Anderson.

Umami enhances the flavor of vegetables without overpowering their delicate natural flavor. Meat and dairy products are naturally umami-packed. Vegan options include umami-laden ingredients like sea vegetables and produce such as tomatoes and mushrooms. And let’s not forget fermented products like soy sauce, kimchi and fermented beans or miso.

Infused oils are another easy way to boost the flavor of vegetable dishes. Oils infused with garlic, onion and chili are commonly used in Asian cooking—just a few drizzles can add a whole new flavor dimension to any dish.

Furthermore, Asian cooks have always known that texture is a turn-on. Fried shallots, crispy garlic slices, and crunchy pickles not only inject lots of flavor, but also impart a contrasting texture in the mouth that makes a dish more appetizing and interesting to eat

Think of fried spring rolls; when you bite into a roll, the crisp shell shatters to reveal the moist shredded vegetable filling. And doesn’t a forkful from a Vietnamese noodle bowl— crunchy pickles, firm fried tofu, slippery noodles and soft mushrooms—feel like a party in your mouth?

Local Vegetables, Asian Flavors

Many Asian vegetarian cookbooks that have come before simply replace the meat in a recipe with tofu. However, this cookbook shines the spotlight on vegetables. I also wanted to answer the question, "How do you prepare local vegetables the Asian way to maximize their flavors?"

Vegetables like bok choy. Chinese (napa) cabbage and pea shoots are a common sight in farmer’s markets and supermarkets; others, like bitter melon and Chinese flowering cabbage (choy sum) are harder to find. On the other hand, tables at farmers' markets are buckling under the weight of locally grown vegetables such as beets, butternut squash and purple potatoes. Although not common in traditional Asian cooking, these vegetables are equally versatile and delicious, and can be prepared in similar ways to Asian vegetables. You just need to learn to mix and match cooking techniques and flavors with each vegetable.

Fortunately, you don’t need special equipment to cook the Asian way, and basic Asian sauces, herbs and spices are now sold everywhere. Most cities also have a health-food store or Asian market where an even wider range of Asian ingredients is available.

Peppery Turmeric Soup (page 126)

Adapting traditional recipes to locally available ingredients is nothing new for immigrants, least of all my mom. I've often seen her work her magic in the kitchen, substituting kale for yam leaves, or experimenting with zucchini.

Taking my mom's lead. I use Asian methods of preparation like steaming and stir-frying, and quintessential herbs and seasonings like ginger and palm sugar. But my cooking style is Informed by Western sensibilities.

I’ll demonstrate how easy it is to combine the very freshest produce with the Asian flavors you love—in recipes such as Egg Flower Soup with English Peas and Sweet Corn. Red Curry Noodles with Roasted Cauliflower and Rainbow Carrots, and General Tso's Eggplant

You’ll have ample "tools" to stash in your cooking arsenal; you can wield them whether you're cooking Chinese broccoli or broccoli raab. With practice, you'll soon recognize how to apply various cooking techniques and preparations to specific seasonal vegetables.

I hope my original Ideas and creative flavor combinations will help you "think outside the wok," and encourage you to dig into your weekly CSA (Community Supported Agriculture) box and/or buy from a local farmer.

Pan-Asian Recipes

The recipes in this cookbook span East and Southeast Asia—familiar territory for me because of my background. I am of Chinese descent but I was born in Indonesia and raised in Singapore. Thus. I am accustomed to eating a wide variety of different Southeast Asian foods, and over the years have traveled, researched and eaten my way throughout Asia. I have come to appreciate the cuisines of Japan. Vietnam. Indonesia. Malaysia. India. Thailand and the Philippines, among others. Plus, my research for my previous book. The Asian Grandmothers' Cookbook, gave me an opportunity to learn firsthand from women who are experts in these cuisines.

Stir-Fried Cellophane Noodles (page 110)

Regardless of where the recipes originate, almost all of the ingredients in this book can be easily purchased. When I believe a certain exotic flavor is essential to a dish, I offer close substitutes. These dishes may not be truly “authentic”, but they're just as tasty as the dishes that Inspired them!

The Goals of This Book

Even though I have professional culinary training. I'm a home cook at heart To reflect this philosophy. I have created straightforward, flavorful dishes—the kind I make for my own family regularly. My recipes are designed for regular folks who don't want to spend too much time in the kitchen but still want to eat well.

As you'll discover in this book, home-cooked Asian food is very different from what you find at most Asian restaurants in the U.S. With just a few staple Ingredients and simple tricks of the trade, you, too, can cook delicious Asian-style vegetable dishes.

Flaky Chinese Pancakes with Chive Blossoms (page 48)

Many recipes can be completed in 30 to 45 minutes; a few require slightly more time and energy. In these cases. I have Indicated the steps that can be done ahead. All in all, you'll find plenty of recipes suitable for weekday meals, as well as options for a leisurely weekend of cooking with friends or entertaining without lots of fuss.

Overall, I had three goals in mind as I wrote.

1. To show vegetarians, vegans and omnivores (and perhaps even ardent carnivores) that vegetable-focused meals can be Incredibly tasty and satisfying.

2. To encourage you to learn a few “secret" Asian techniques and tricks, and not just follow recipes blindly. This way, you can adjust your cooking to the availability of Ingredients. Be creative—many Ingredients have similar flavor profiles, so substitutions are your allies!

3. To demystify Asian cooking. It's easy—and quick—once you know a few basic techniques and understand the method behind the madness. You'll save money on takeout, and you'll Impress your family and friends!

With that, I leave you to explore and experiment I hope you'll enjoy learning how to create vegetable-focused meals with Asian flavors to suit your palate and to satisfy your appetite.

Patricia Tanumihardja

Seasonal Variations

I have a collection of favorite recipes that I like to make year round by simply substituting other vegetables that are at the peak of their flavor. Here are some of my seasonal variations on recipes in this book.

RECIPE	SPRING	SUMMER	AUTUMN	WINTER
Dumplings (page 100)	Leeks and cellophane noodles	Tomato, chives and egg	Fennel, carrots and egg	Cabbage, mushrooms and tofu
Fried Rice (page 63)	English peas Pea shoots	Zucchini Tomatoes	Kale Chanterelles	Rainbow chard Cauliflower
Red Curry (page 54)	Asparagus Fava beans	Red peppers Eggplant Tomatoes	Kabocha, delicata or acorn squash	Sweet potato Parsnips Kale
Greens with Sesame Sauce (page 54)	Fiddlehead ferns Dandelion greens	Spinach Chrysanthemum leaves	Swiss or rainbow chard	Red Russian kale
Spring Rolls (page 50)	Bamboo shoots and mushrooms	Zucchini and fennel	Celery root and carrots	Turnip and carrots

Seasonal Menu Suggestions

When planning your menus, it is important to think about how the flavors and textures will work with one another. For example, If you choose a spicy dish, contrast that with one that is more bland. Or if you chose a dish with lots of sauce, combine that with a drier dish. There are so many different types of rice available on the market today red rice, pink rice, green-tea rice, black forbidden rice, and so on. Each of them has distinct qualities that make them suitable for different occasions and seasons. Here are some Ideas for family-style menus.

SEASON	STARTER	RICE	MAIN DISH 1	MAIN DISH 2
SPRING	Crispy Spring Rolls (page 50)	Jasmine brown rice	Fresh Artichoke Hearts, Green Beans and Bell Pepper in Thai Red Curry (page 54)	Broccolini with Seasoned Soy Sauce (page 57)
SUMMER	Fresh Salad with Sweet, Sour, Spicy Sauce (page 70)	Pink rice	Spicy Fried Okra (page 83)	Grilled Vegetable Kebabs with Two Marinades (page 76)
AUTUMN	Green Apple Salad with Tangy Thai Dressing (page 94)	Sticky (glutinous) rice	Red and Golden Beets in Green Curry (page 106)	Cherry Tomatoes Simmered with Tofu (page 107)
WINTER	Tofu, Spinach and Fennel Wontons (page 118)	Red rice	Roasted Brussels Sprouts with Sweet Chili Sauce (page 128)	Sweet Soy and Black Pepper Cauliflower (page 129)