Читать книгу Farm to Table Asian Secrets - Patricia Tanumihardja - Страница 12

Basic Recipes

In this chapter, you'll find all the basic recipes I use to amp up flavors and add dimension to my Asian vegetarian cooking. Highlights include how to cook rice on the stovetop, garnishes to add flavor and texture, and stocks for stir-fries and soups. I also give recipes for homemade versions of prepared sauces and spice mixes that are easy to whip up at home. And don't forget pickles and fermented vegetables that make delicious snacks or meal accompaniments!

Stovetop Jasmine Rice

Fragrant jasmine is my rice of choice for pairing with most dishes. Cooking rice in a pot can be tricky, depending on the type of rice you're cooking as well as how old the rice Is. The only foolproof way to perfect that pot of rice is to cook several batches from the same bag of rice and experiment If the rice is too dry, add more water a few tablespoons at a time. If It's too soggy, decrease the water bit by bit This recipe is for white rice, but you can use the same method to cook brown jasmine rice, as well as other types of medium-to long-grain rice. See "Tips" below and check package directions for the correct rice-to-water ratios.

PREP TIME: 5 MINUTES

COOK TIME: 40 MINUTES

MAKES: ABOUT 2 CUPS

1 cup (200 g) jasmine rice

1¼ cups (325 ml) water

In a medium heavy-bottomed saucepan with a tight-fitting lid (preferably glass so you can observe cooking) rinse the rice in at least 3 changes of water. Drain well.

Add the 1¼ cups (325 ml) water and swirl the rice with your hand. Let the grains settle evenly at the bottom of saucepan.

Set the saucepan on the stove over high heat and bring to a rolling boil, so that the water is bubbling around the circumference of the saucepan. Reduce the heat to the lowest possible setting and cover the saucepan tightly with the lid. Continue cooking for 15 to 18 minutes, or until all the water is absorbed. The rice will look moist,and the contents will still be bubbling. Turn off the heat and let rice steam, lid intact, for another 10 minutes. Then lift off the lid and gently fluff the rice with a fork or a pair of chopsticks. The rice should not be lumpy; the individual grains should be separate.

Keep rice covered until ready to serve. Serve hot.

Tips Visit smithsonianapa.org/picklesandtea/how-to-cook-rice-3-ways/ for other methods of cooking rice.

• To cook Japanese rice in a clay pot, visit: smithsonianapa.org/picklesandtea/the-ritual-of-rice/

• To make brown rice, use a 1:2 ratio of rice to water and cook for at least 30 minutes.

Toasted Sesame Seeds

Toasting sesame seeds helps bring out their rich aroma and nutty taste.

PREP TIME: 5 MINUTES

MAKES: ¼ CUP (30 G)

¼ cup (30 g) white sesame seeds

Preheat a medium nonstick cast-iron skillet over high heat for 2 to 3 minutes until wisps of smoke start to appear. Reduce the heat to medium-low and add the sesame seeds, spreading them out in one layer. Toast for 2 to 4 minutes, stirring or shaking the pan often, until the seeds are aromatic and begin to brown and pop. Allow to cool before using or storing.

Microwaved Crispy Garlic Bits

Fried garlic is usually prepared on the stove, but using a microwave is far more convenient when making the small quantities normally used in the home kitchen. You can also buy fried garlic in round canisters at an Asian market but you'll miss out on the flavorful garlic oil.

PREP TIME: 4 MINUTES

COOK TIME: 1 MINUTE

MAKES: 2 TABLESPOONS

2 tablespoons minced garlic (about 6 cloves) Vegetable oil

Place the garlic in a small microwavable bowl that is large enough to prevent overflow.

Add just enough oil to cover the garlic. Microwave on high for 1 to 2 minutes, checking every 30 seconds to see if it's done. Remove the garlic when it's light brown, as it will continue to cook in the hot oil after it is taken out of the microwave. The bits should be golden brown when cool. Drain the garlic in a fine-mesh sieve over a bowl, reserving the garlic oil for another use. Store the garlic bits in an airtight container for 2 to 3 days.

Toasted Coconut Flakes

You may be more accustomed to using coconut flakes in baking, but they're a very tasty addition to many savory Asian dishes. I prefer big unsweetened coconut flakes to shredded coconut which burns very quickly. If you have time and Inclination, go with the oven method. The flakes will toast more evenly and come out crunchier.

COOK TIME: 10 MINUTES

MAKES: 1 CUP (60 G)

1 cup (60 g) unsweetened large-flake coconut

OVEN METHOD:

Preheat oven to 325°F (160°C). Spread the coconut flakes out evenly in one layer on a rimmed baking sheet. Bake for 8 to 10 minutes, stirring occasionally, until they turn golden brown. Remove from the oven and transfer to a large plate to cool. Don't leave the coconut on the baking sheet because it will continue to brown.

STOVETOP METHOD:

Spread coconut flakes out in a large skillet and set over medium heat. Cook for 3 to 5 minutes, stirring frequently, until the coconut is evenly golden brown.

MICROWAVE OVEN METHOD:

Spread coconut out in a microwave-safe pan. Microwave on high for 4½ to 8 minutes, tossing the coconut with a fork after each minute.

Tip Keep for two weeks in an airtight container.

Kale "Chips"

This recipe has made kale the new darling of the culinary world. I like to use kale chips as a substitute for roasted seaweed (nori) or serve them as a snack. Lacinato kale (also known as dinosaur or Tuscan kale) is my favorite, but any type of kale will do.

PREP TIME: 10 MINUTES

COOK TIME: 20 MINUTES

MAKES: 4 TO 6 SERVINGS

1 bunch (1 0 oz/300 g) kale, washed and thoroughly dried

2 tablespoons vegetable oil

1 teaspoon fine sea salt

Preheat oven to 275°F (135°C).

Remove ribs from the kale and tear leaves into bite-sized pieces. Place on a greased baking sheet. Drizzle with the oil and sprinkle with the salt, then toss with your hands. Arrange the seasoned leaves in a single layer (use two baking sheets if needed). Bake until crisp, turning the leaves halfway through, about 20 minutes.

Fried Shallots

You can buy fried shallots at an Asian market; even French-fried onions (the kind used for green bean casserole) are okay. They are fantastic sprinkled over just about anything, Including burgers and steamed vegetables. But they are tastiest made at home. My mom always fried them in bulk, filling an entire gallon container.

The trick is to start in cold oil and cook them slowly. The flavorful cooking oil tastes great in other recipes.

PREP TIME: 5 MINUTES + 1 HOUR STANDING TIME

COOK TIME: 15 MINUTES

MAKES: ¾ CUP

3 large shallots (6 oz/170 g), peeled and sliced lengthwise about ⅛ inch (3 mm) thick

Vegetable oil, for frying

Pat the shallots dry with paper towels and let them air-dry on your kitchen counter (or out in the sun like my mom used to do!) for about 1 hour.

Pour enough oil into a small saucepan to reach a depth of 2 inches (5 cm). Add the shallots and set the saucepan over medium heat. Adjust the heat to keep the oil bubbling gently. Cook, stirring occasionally, for about 15 to 20 minutes, until the shallots turn golden brown. Reduce the heat if they color too quickly.

Place a fine-meshed sieve over a bowl and drain the shallots, reserving the oil. Cool completely and store in an airtight container for up to one week.

Quick Ramen Eggs

Cooked eggs soaked in sweet soy sauce (ni-tamago) is a popular ramen topping. I like my egg yolks gooey, but you can cook them for longer (up to 10 minutes) If you prefer firmer yolks.

PREP TIME: 5 MINUTES

COOK TIME: 8½ MINUTES + 1 HOUR TO MARINATE

4 large eggs

4 tablespoons water

3 tablespoons soy sauce

2 tablespoons mirin or rice vinegar

1 tablespoon granulated sugar

Bring a large pot of water to a rolling boil over high heat. Reduce heat to medium and lower eggs in gently. Cook for 6½ minutes, then plunge into a bowl of ice water to stop the cooking.

While the eggs are cooling, make the marinade. Stir together the water, soy sauce, mirin, and sugar in a small container (the eggs should fit inside snugly) until the sugar dissolves. Microwave for 30 seconds to dissolve sugar, if necessary.

When the eggs are cool, peel them and place them in the container. Turn to coat and place a small dish on top to keep them submerged. Refrigerate for at least 1 hour or (preferably) overnight. Drain and serve.

Tempeh Three Ways

Tempeh can be an acquired taste, but It's protein-packed and easy to digest because It’s fermented. Before cooking. I recommend simmering sliced tempeh in boiling water for 10 minutes to remove any bitterness. Then drain and proceed with marinating.

PREP TIME: 5 MINUTES + MARINATING TIME

COOK TIME: 5 TO 25 MINUTES

4 tablespoons soy sauce

1 tablespoon rice vinegar (or whatever vinegar you have)

1 tablespoon water

1 teaspoon sesame or vegetable oil

2 cloves garlic, minced Pinch of granulated sugar

One 8-oz (250-g) package tempeh, cut into ¼-in (5-mm) slices

Mix together the soy sauce, rice vinegar, water, oil, garlic and sugar in a medium bowl. Add the tempeh, turning to coat. Marinate for 20 minutes up to 1 hour.

Pan-fry in an oiled skillet over medium heat until golden brown and crispy, 1 to 1½ minutes on each side.

Alternately, grill over medium heat until lightly charred, 1 to 2 minutes on each side.

Or bake at 375°F (190°C) for 12 to 15 minutes, then turn over and bake for another 10 minutes.

Roasted Veggie Stock

Cutting the vegetables into small pieces (the finer the dice the better) extracts greater flavor; roasting caramelizes and makes the flavors more complex. If you have time for additional simmering, do so. The vegetables suggested below are just a guide. Use 8 to 9 cups (450 to 500 g) of any chopped veggies you have on hand. Be aware that starchy ones like potatoes can make your stock cloudy. Strong-flavored vegetables like cabbage and broccoli may overpower your stock, but that can be a good thing If it suits your taste.

PREP TIME: 20 MINUTES

COOK TIME: 2 HOURS

2 tablespoons vegetable oil, divided 4 Large carrots, sliced

3 celery stalks, chopped

1 Large yellow onion, quartered and Left unpeeled 1 Large Leek, greens and whites, chopped

1 daikon radish or Large purple turnip, chopped

10 white or brown button mushrooms, sliced

6 cloves garlic, smashed

12 cups (3 Liters) water

Chubby 2-in (5-cm) knob fresh ginger, sliced along the grain

1 small bunch cilantro stems or stems with Leaves, tied with kitchen twine (about 15 stems)

¼ cup (60 ml) soy sauce (optional)

Fine sea salt

Preheat oven to 425°F (220°C).

Line two rimmed baking sheets with foil and spray with cooking spray. Divide the vegetables equally between the sheets and spread them out in a single layer. Drizzle each baking sheet with 1 tablespoon oil and toss vegetables to coat. Roast for 45 minutes to 1 hour, until well browned. Set aside.

Combine the water, ginger and cilantro in a medium stockpot. Add the roasted vegetables and bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce heat so the stock bubbles steadily but gently. Simmer until the vegetables are very tender, at least 1 hour, or up to 2 or 3 hours if you have the time.

Strain, then add the soy sauce, if using (omit if using in a recipe that calls for low-sodium stock). Taste and adjust seasonings, adding more soy sauce or salt, before using or storing. The stock will keep in the freezer for up to a month.

Tip If you don't have time for roasting, heat the oil in the stock pot, then add the vegetables and let them brown for a few minutes before adding the water.

Dashi Seaweed Stock

Seaweed stock, or dashi, is the basic stock used in Japanese cuisine. It's normally made with both kombu seaweed and dried bonito (skipjack tuna) flakes. You can Infuse this vegan version with more umami oomph by adding 4 to 5 dried shiitake stems or I large cap to the dashi pot If you can get your hands on some. If you can't find kombu, dulse (a sea vegetable more commonly harvested in the West) is an option too.

PREP TIME: 30 MINUTES

COOK TIME: 5 MINUTES

MAKES: 4 CUPS (1 LITER)

One 3 x 3-in (7.5 x 7.5-cm) square piece of kombu or ½ cup (8 g) loosely packed dulse

4 cups (1 liter) filtered water

Combine the kombu or dulse and water in a medium saucepan. Steep for 30 minutes.

Bring the water to a near boil over medium-low heat. This will take 5 to 7 minutes-bubbles will ring the edges of the saucepan. Do not let the dashi boil, or it will turn cloudy and acquire a strong taste of the sea.

Turn off the heat and let cool completely,