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5

Settling

into Lisbon

Lisbon is the gateway to Portugal, the nation’s capital, its biggest city and a vibrant cultural hub. Long a sleeping beauty, the city is now firmly established as a must-see European destination. Bathed in milky light, the ancient hills of Europe’s sunniest capital overlook the shimmering estuary of the river Tagus just before it flows into the Atlantic. Lisbon has been a global meeting place since its explorers and traders reached out around the world in the 15th century.

Today, it’s changing fast, as trendy boutiques, gourmet restaurants, and chic hotels spring up to serve the tourists who fill its winding lanes and 18th-century avenues. Some fear it’s losing its soul, but the city’s unique character endures. Find it in the impassioned strains of fado music echoing down the alleys of Alfama, the fishmongers hawking sardines in the Ribeira market, or the gentle sway of ferry boats carrying commuters across the broad river. For visitors the city offers a potent emotional mix. You can surf ocean rollers in the morning, peruse exquisite art in the afternoon, and then dine alfresco beneath castle walls once guarded by Roman legionnaires, Arab warriors, and crusader knights.

Top Things to Do Like Rome, Lisbon is built on seven hills, each ringed by viewpoints (miradouros) where you can contemplate the city laid out before you, the vast estuary, and distant hills: The miradouro at São Pedro de Alcântara (p. 101) is a good place to start. Eat seafood in bustling marisqueiras (seafood restaurants) like Ramiro (p. 88). Rattle through lanes in a vintage street car; Tram 28 (p. 105) is the most sought after, but other routes are less crowded. Grab some great art: from the masterpiece-filled Gulbenkian (p. 116) and Ancient Art (p. 111) museums to cutting-edge collections at the MAAT (p. 107) or CCB (p. 110). Refresh your wardrobe in the hip Príncipe Real (p. 126) district, where an Arabian Nights–style palace maybe the world’s prettiest shopping mall. Sip bicas (shots of strong espresso) at the bar where poets and artists have dallied for over a century. Explore the monumental Belém (p. 71) neighborhood redolent of the great Age of Discoveries. Go nose-to-nose with sharks and rays at the colossal Oceanário (p. 113) aquarium. Dance the night away in the clubs of Cais do Sodré. Save some energy for the best Lisbon activity: losing yourself in a stroll around the streets and alleys of the old city where every curve can reveal a surprise, be it a church lined with baroque gold; a “hospital” that’s treated broken dolls since 1830; or another stunning view of the expanse of blue water that holds the city in an eternal embrace.

Lisbon

Shopping Avenida da Liberdade has been Lisbon’s chicest shopping street since 1879. Inspired by Paris’s Champs Élysées, this tree-lined boulevard boasts 1,200 yards of designer stores, theaters, and upscale eateries. More eclectic shopping experiences can be found in older neighborhoods like the Baixa, Chiado, or Príncipe Real. The Baixa has a street almost entirely devoted to tiny retro stores selling buttons and ribbons, as well as some of the best specialist wine and gourmet stores. Chiado’s treasures include the world’s oldest bookshop and a tiny boutique dedicated to exquisite handmade leather gloves. Príncipe Real is a fashionistas’ delight. For mall rats, the city is ringed by huge modern shopping centers: Amoreiras is the poshest and most architecturally distinctive.

Dining Lisbon’s food scene has been transformed. A generation of young chefs such as José Avillez and Henrique Sá Pessoa have refined and modernized Portuguese cuisine, winning the city of constellation of newly minted Michelin starts. The city’s historic ties means Lisbon has always had an exotic mix of restaurants serving cuisine from places like Brazil, Mozambique and Goa, but lately there’s been an explosion of international eating options meaning you can get excellent pizza, ceviche, mezze, or braised sea cucumber. Thankfully, traditional Portuguese food is still available either in hole-in-the-wall tascas (taverns) or decades-old temples to tradition, where white-suited waiters will supply you with city favorites like fava beans sautéed with peppery chouriço sausage and cilantro, or shredded salt-cod mixed with scrambled egg, fried potatoes, and black olives. Then, of course, you must track down the source of Lisbon’s most successful culinary export, the cinnamon-dusted custard tarts, known as pastéis de nata.

Nightlife & Entertainment Lisbon’s legendary nightlife includes riverside discotheques featuring Europe’s top DJs, rooftops where you can toast the sunset, and whimsical antique-filled cocktail bars. The Bairro Alto and Cais do Sodré districts hold the greatest concentration of nightspots. To get an authentic taste of Lisbon’s unique fado music, it’s best to go late when most tourists head for their hotels but true aficionados emerge. Cinema buffs will love that Portugal doesn’t dub, but shows subtitled films in their original language. The São Carlos opera house is a rococo treat; the Gulbenkian orchestra offers world-class classical music, and the Teatro Camões showcases avant-garde dance.

Lisbon Yesterday & Today

In his hit Lisboa Menina e Moça, fado legend Carlos do Carmo croons an erotic paean to his hometown, likening this “city-woman” to a lover who has seduced him by the purity of her light. Lisbon is a sensual city, easy to fall in love with. Seen from the river, the gentle curves of its hills are clad in a harmonious architectural mix where gothic towers and baroque church fronts blend with the Enlightenment rigor of its 18th-century downtown.

Sunlight from the expanse of slow-flowing river reflects onto limestone walls and paving stones giving Lisbon a “white city” nickname. Close up, you’ll find it’s full of colors. Centuries-old government ministries, mansions, or apartment blocks can be painted in burgundy, cornflower-blue, or lemon-yellow. Even the skyline’s most intrusive modern addition—the towers of the Amoreiras shopping mall—are a technicolor tribute to 1980s taste.

Be prepared for a sensory overload. Another favorite song claims “it smells good, it smells of Lisbon”: you can catch the scent of orange blossom, laundry freshly hung from wrought-laundry balconies, or cinnamon sprinkled on oven-hot pastries. Tastes and sounds will be a multicultural mix. Lisbon was the first global city; its cuisine is fused with cinnamon, cumin, and cilantro. Shots of thick black coffee are knocked back at countless neighborhood pastry shops. The soundtrack will include the cries of gulls, rattling of streetcars, and fado music mixed with rhythms from Brazil and Africa, the throb of Portuguese hip-hop from the suburbs. Feel the cool of marble bars in 19th-century cafes or the sun-warmed azulejo tiles on the walls of a baroque church.

Of course, you also get the horns of backed up traffic, the whiff of blocked drains and uncollected trash, and the babble of tourists from around the world. Lisbon is not a museum, but the capital of a modern European state with all the issues facing big cities around the world. Despite the changes, travelers will discover a place of great beauty: laidback, welcoming, and affordable.

The history of Lisbon can be told in four landmarks. Let’s start with Castelo de São Jorge (p. 98), the city’s cradle, whose crenelated ramparts are immediately visible on one of the highest of the city’s shills. Humans have lived here since at least the 8th century b.c. Celtic tribes and Phoenician, Greek, and Carthaginian traders all had defensive outposts before Roman colonizers erected a fort to defend their seaport of Olisippo. After them came a succession of Germanic tribes, including the Christian Visigoths who ruled from their capital in Toledo for almost 150 years, before they were defeated by Muslim armies who swept in from North Africa and captured Lisbon in 714. Under Arab rule, the city spread down the hillside in the current neighborhoods of Alfama and Mouraria, whose narrow winding lanes still recall the medinas of North African cities. Remains of the Moorish fortifications (Cerca Moura) can still be seen today, but most of the medieval walls you see were built after the 1147 capture of the city by Portugal’s first king, Afonso I Henriques, with the help of crusaders from northern Europe. The siege of Lisbon was a turning point in the Reconquista wars, confirming Afonso’s leadership and setting the Christian forces on course for victory, although it would be another 100 years before they captured the whole of the country. In 1255, King Afonso III, grandson of the country’s founder, transferred the capital from Coimbra to Lisbon, and the castle became a royal residence. It was named after St. George (São Jorge) only in the 14th century, after King João I married an English princess, the legendary dragon-slayer being England’s patron saint.

Next up, the Mosteiro dos Jerónimos, a symbol of Portugal’s Age of Discoveries. The 15th-century monastery is the city’s best example of the flamboyant Manueline style of architecture, named for King Manuel I who oversaw Lisbon’s transformation from a medieval town on the margins of Europe to the capital of a global empire. The man who perhaps did most to bring about that change lies buried inside: Vasco da Gama, who prayed on this spot the night before he left on the first sea journey from Europe around Africa to India. The Discoveries made Portugal rich and powerful, as Asian spices, African ivory, and Brazilian gold flooded into Lisbon. Long viewed as a golden age, the era is now questioned by historians given Portugal’s role in launching the Atlantic slave trade and European colonialism. Foreign travelers at the time were amazed at the variety of produce and people in Lisbon. By the mid-16th-century, estimates suggest, over 10% of the city’s population was black, both slaves and free. A visiting Flemish painter produced cityscapes showing Africans carrying out menial tasks, but also mixed-race couples dancing together and a black horseman in colors of the knightly Order of Santiago.

Manuel’s reign also saw the expulsion of Portugal’s Jewish community who had thrived in Lisbon since Roman and Arab times. Under pressure from Spain, in 1496 he ordered all Jews to convert to Catholicism or leave. Those who chose to stay were persecuted by the Inquisition. For more than 250 years, it tormented converts suspected of clinging to the Jewish faith and executed almost 500 people in autos-de-fé in Lisbon. A monument near Rossio square marks the spot where the Inquisition carried out its deeds. In 2019, the city council approved plans for a memorial to the victims of slavery on Lisbon’s waterfront.

Our third landmark is the vast riverside plaza officially named Praça do Comércio. Even when Portugal was in decline as a world power in the 18th century, its overseas territories continued to bring in riches, notably in the form of Brazilian gold, which financed the construction of lavish churches and palaces around the capital. It all came crashing down on November 1, 1755, when Lisbon was hit by a massive earthquake. Tremors were felt around Europe but it devastated the Portuguese capital, where it was followed by a tsunami and fire that left the city a gutted, charred shambles. Up to 90,000 were believed to have died. Cometh the hour, cometh the man: Prime Minister Sebastião José de Carvalho e Melo, better known as the Marquis of Pombal, took charge of the reconstruction efforts. He rebuilt downtown Lisbon along modern lines, inspired by the rational ideas of the Enlightenment. Praça do Comércio became the centerpiece of the new capital, with grand government buildings in an austere classical style that became known as Pombaline. From it runs a grid of straight streets and identical buildings making the Baixa district unlike the heart of any other European city. Informally, Lisbonites still refer to the square as Terreiro do Paço (Palace Yard) after the royal residence that stood there before the quake laid it low.

Pombal tried to modernize the country as well as its town planning, but his reforms were too little, too late. Left behind by the Industrial Revolution, Portugal entered the 19th century in deep decline. When Napoleon’s troops conquered Lisbon in 1807, the royal family escaped in the nick of time on British ships and transferred the capital to Rio de Janeiro. Brazil’s independence and a civil war in the 1830s hastened Portugal’s decline.

In 1908 King Carlos II and his oldest son were assassinated in Praça do Comércio and 2 years later, a republic was proclaimed from the balcony of City Hall. More chaos followed until dictator António de Oliveira Salazar took power in 1932. He managed to keep Portugal neutral during World War II, when Lisbon became a nest of spies and a haven for refugees.

By the 1960s, however, Portugal was at war: Lisbon’s quaysides saw the tearful departure of troops ships headed for colonial conflicts in Angola, Mozambique, and Guinea Bissau. Poor and isolated, Portugal was an outcast in democratic Europe. That began to change as dawn broke on April 25, 1974 to reveal armored cars and young soldiers taking up position in Praça do Comércio. The revolution launched by junior officers immediately won the hearts of Lisbon’s citizens, who took to the streets and decorated the soldiers’ guns with carnations from the flower stalls on Rossio. Portugal was set on the path to democracy.

The soaring towers and cutting-edge architecture of Parque das Nações symbolize modern Lisbon. The district was built to house the Expo ’98 World Fair, which drew 11 million visitors to the city on the 500th anniversary of Vasco da Gama’s arrival in India. It was a brash statement of a newly confident country. The new landmarks included Europe’s then-longest bridge, towering blocks of upscale apartments, shopping malls, exhibition halls, theatres, and a railway station designed by Spanish architectural superstar Santiago Calatrava. It embodied Lisbon’s transformation since the 1974 revolution. After some years of revolutionary turmoil, the country emerged as a stable parliamentary democracy. In 1986, it joined what would become the European Union, along with neighboring Spain. EU funds and foreign investment fueled an economic boom with new roads and infrastructure springing up around the country. The party had fizzled out by the mid-2000s and Lisbon, like the rest of Portugal, was hard hit by the world economic crisis. The capital, however, has been at the forefront of a recovery since 2015, with tourism and foreign investment fueling a booming property market.

Today, the city is the heart of an urban area that’s home to 2.8 million people. Its airport struggles to keep up with the demand for visitors flying in to enjoy its attractions. Neighborhoods in the old center that were once picturesquely rundown are spruced up with facades brightly painted or covered in new azulejos. The downside of the renewal is that those districts are losing their character. Residents are forced out as demand for vacation apartments pushes up rents; unique stores and cafes that have served neighborhoods for generations are replaced with souvenir shops and hipster watering holes that look like they’re transplanted from New York’s Williamsburg or London’s Shoreditch. Like in Prague and Barcelona, you’ll find old timers who’ll tell you Lisbon’s not what it was, but its sun-drenched beauty endures and, if you know where to look, there’s still charm aplenty in the streets and squares, along with marvelous museums, fabulous (and still affordable) food and wines, and amazing architecture for all tastes from early medieval to startlingly modernist.

Orientation

When to Visit

Lisbon is a year-round destination, but the summer months of July and August are the busiest, when tourists flock in, temperatures sizzle, and Lisboetas leave on vacation. June is a party month when Lisbon city celebrates its patron, Saint Anthony. It’s great for atmosphere with street parties and open air concerts on warm evenings, but not ideal if you seek peace and quiet. Winter is calmer, when hotels are cheaper, temperatures cool (January averages 12°C/53°F), and cultural programs are in full swing in museums and theaters. April and May are many people’s favorites as the weather warms and markets fill with strawberries and juicy loquats, but they can be showery. September and October see the city still warm and fizzing with energy after the summer break.

Arriving

By Plane Lisbon’s Humberto Delgado Airport (www.aeroportolisboa.pt; 21/841-35-00), is Portugal’s main entryway, serving almost 30 million passengers in 2018. It’s an important hub for flights from Europe to Brazil and Africa and has an increasing number of direct routes to North America (p. 465). The smaller Terminal 2 handles mostly low-cost departures within Europe. There are plans to open a second airport by 2022 on the site of a military air base in Montijo, across the river Tagus from downtown.

The current airport is conveniently just 6.5km (4 miles) from the heart of the city. A cheap and easy way to the center is the Aerobus (www.aerobus.pt; 21/850-32-25) shuttle service running on two lines into the city center and a third, less frequent, line to the Sete Rios bus terminal. Lines 1 and 2 stop close to main downtown landmarks and hotels. They operate daily every 20 minutes from 8am to 9pm and take approximately 30 minutes to reach the center. Tickets cost 4€ from the stand outside Arrivals, or 3.60€ online.

The airport Metro station is part of the red line, connecting with central Lisbon in Alameda (green line), Saldanha (yellow line), or São Sebastião (blue line) stations. A single journey costs 1.40€ plus 0.50€ for the reusable Viva Viagem Card (p. 73).

Taxi passengers line up outside the Arrivals hall. The parking lot in front of Departures is the place to meet drivers from Uber or other ride hailing firms. Taxi fares to downtown should be around 15€, with supplements at night and an extra 1.60€ for each piece of luggage. Watch the meter, because taxi drivers frequently try to hike prices for unsuspecting visitors.

By Train Lisbon’s few international train connections (p. 467) arrive at the Oriente station in Parque das Nações and Santa Apolónia close to Alfama. Both are on the metro and have taxi ranks. Mainline trains to Porto and the north also depart from there. Trains from the Algarve and Alentejo arrive at the Sete Rios and Entrecampos stations. Bookings on domestic routes can be made on the website of CP (www.cp.pt) the national rail company, which also has details of fares, routes, and timetables

By Bus Intercity domestic and international buses (p. 468 and 471) terminate at the Terminal Rodoviário de Sete Rios (www.rede-expressos.pt; 21/358-14-72) which is next to Jardim Zoológico subway station, where you can catch a 10-minute metro ride to downtown.

By Car If you are arriving by car (p. 466), try to avoid rush hour when there are a number of bottlenecks, notably on the Ponte 25 de Abril bridge. If you can, book accommodation with private parking, because parking lots are expensive, street parking is limited, and foreign-registered cars left overnight in downtown streets are a preferred target for thieves looking for valuables inside.

Visitor Information

The official Lisbon Tourism Association (www.visitlisboa.com) has 13 “Ask Me Lisboa” information points around the city, including on Praça do Comércio ( 21-031-2810) and in Palácio Foz on Praça dos Restauradores ( 21/346-33-14). Both are open daily 9am to 8pm. If you are planning some intensive museum visiting, consider the Lisbon Card run by the tourist board. It includes free public transport and free (and sometimes fast-track) access to 35 museums and attractions, including A-list destinations like Jerónimos monastery and the Museu Nacional de Arte Antiga, as well as reductions on selected tours and stores. Adult prices range from 20€ for 24 hours or 42€ for 72 hours, with reductions for children. They are available online at the Visit Lisbon site, or from any of their stores and information points.

City Layout & Neighborhoods

Lisbon is the westernmost capital of continental Europe. Atlantic beaches start a 20-minute train ride away from downtown. It’s spread out along the north bank of the Tagus, the longest river on the Iberian Peninsula, where it broadens into an estuary almost 20km (12 miles) wide before narrowing again just before it reaches the ocean. Like Rome, Lisbon is built on seven hills, but as the city spread it took in more rises and valleys. That makes walking tough on the calves but easy on the eye, as you discover more and more viewpoints over the city and the river. Here’s a pick of Lisbon’s most interesting neighborhoods.

Baixa The city’s downtown core, Baixa was laid out in a grid of rectangular blocks after the earthquake of 1755. It’s bookended by two plazas: Praça do Comércio, whose arcaded government offices and sidewalk cafes open out onto the Tagus; and Rossio (officially Praça de D. Pedro IV) the city’s favorite meeting place, featuring waves of black-and-white paving, the National Theater, fountains, and a towering column in honor of King Pedro. The lattice of busy streets running between them is a unique example of 18th-century town planning and a major shopping hub. Although tourist-oriented stores are increasingly taking over, it’s still packed with enchanting curiosities: from generations-old stores selling buttons and ribbons to grocers backed with strings of spicy sausage and bags of aromatic coffee, and splendid old cafes like Confeitaria Nacional (p. 106). The grandest, most harmonious (and most touristy) street is pedestrianized Rua Augusta, which ends in a triumphal arch leading into Praça do Comércio. Among the Baixa’s curiosities are the Elevador de Santa Justa (p. 105) and the fire-damaged Igreja de São Domingos church. Praça da Figueira is another fine square with interesting stores and cafes.

Alfama, Sé & Castelo Immediately east of Baixa is the hill where Lisbon began. It’s crowned by Castelo São Jorge and the medieval lanes of the Castelo neighborhood that surrounds it. They contain some fine hotels and the Fundação Ricardo do Espírito Santo Silva, a living museum with artisans’ workshops. On the slope leading up to the castle, the Sé neighborhood takes its name from the fortress like 12th-century Cathedral (Sé). It’s traversed by the famed Tram 28 line along a street lined with antique and handicraft shops. At its foot, Campo das Cebolas is a plaza lined with cafes, restaurants, and historic facades like Casa dos Bicos. Next door, Alfama is Lisbon’s most characteristic district. Its steeply winding streets are the spiritual home of fado music and, although fast gentrifying, it remains highly atmospheric. Among Alfama’s many churches, grand São Vicente de Fora contains wonderful azulejos, and Santa Engrácia holds the tombs of Portugal’s great and good. Both have sweeping river vistas from their rooftops, but Alfama’s best view is from Largo Portas de Sol—especially if you get (or stay) up for sunrise.

Chiado, Bairro Alto & prÍncipe Real The hill on the other side of Baixa is for shopping and partying. Chiado has been a chic shopping district since the 19th century. On its streets nestle venerable shops like the tiny Luvaria Ulisses glovemaker and Livraria Bertrand, the world’s oldest working bookshop. There are also splendid old cafes, grand theaters like the São Carlos opera house, and the National Museum of Contemporary Art. Among the attractive squares, Praça Luís de Camões is a popular meeting place, and Largo do Carmo fronts the gothic arches of the Convento do Carmo, an atmospheric museum amid ruins left by the 1755 earthquake. Bairro Alto means “high neighborhood”—the name refers to its hillside elevation rather than the impact of substances consumed in the bars and clubs that line its narrow alleys. Amid the booze joints are some cool bars, fine restaurants, and fado houses. Across the road, São Roque church has a golden interior of baroque carvings. Príncipe Real, spread out around the shady gardens of the same name, is the premier fashionista hangout, packed with eclectic boutiques and yet more cool bars. The Miradouro de São Pedro de Alcântara has iconic views over the city and Praça das Flores (Square of Flowers) is as pretty as its name.

Cais do SoDrÉ, Santos & AlcÂntara Cais do Sodré is the other main nightlife district, down by the river. Its nocturnal focus is bar-lined Rua Nova do Carvalho, better known as “Pink Street” for its rose painted asphalt. During the day, the big attraction is the Time Out Market, an always-packed gourmet hall, and its neighbor the traditional Ribeira Market with its morning displays of fish and fruit. Riverside Santos has more bars and design stores, but its must-see is the Museu Nacional de Arte Antiga, a 17th-century palace housing a world-class collection of old masters. Farther along the river and in the shadow of the Ponte 25 de Abril bridge, Alcântara is an old working-class district that’s making the most of its industrial heritage with LX Factory, a jumble of hip stores, bars, and restaurants installed in a derelict printworks and the Museo do Oriente, a superb collection of Asian art housed in a 1940s warehouse.

BelÉm Memories of the Discoveries abound in Belém. Spread out amid riverside gardens are the unmissable Jerónimos Monastery and the Torre de Belém, perhaps Europe’s most photogenic fortress. There’s a 1960s Monument to the Discoveries in the grandiose style preferred by the Salazar dictatorship, and a Maritime Museum. More recent attractions include the Centro Cultural de Belém (CCB), which holds theaters and a fine modern art collection, the Coach Museum and the spanking-new MAAT contemporary art center. Portugal’s president lives in a pretty pink palace overlooking the river and, of course, there is the cafe that opened in 1837 to serve the custard and cinnamon treats known as Pastéis de Belém.

Avenida & Avenidas NovAs Back downtown, head north from Rossio and you’ll hit the Avenida de Liberdade, Lisbon’s swankiest boulevard since 1879. It’s over a kilometer (1,000 yards) long, with trees, ponds, and pavements down the center and boutiques, banks, shopping malls, and theaters along both sides. It’s the place to flex your credit card. Oddly enough, it also contains the headquarters of the Portuguese Communist Party in a striking Art Deco building. At the top is Parque Eduardo VII, the biggest city center park. Farther out toward the airport is the Avenidas Novas district laid out in the 19th and early 20th centuries. It has more shopping, historic cafes like Pastelaria Versailles, and quirky buildings like the arabesque Campo Pequeno bullring. But by far, the biggest draw is the Gulbenkian Museum, with amazing art surrounded by a tranquil garden.

Estrela, Lapa & Campo de Ourique Uphill from Santos, the tony Lapa neighborhood is filled with mansions holding embassies and ambassadorial residences. Neighboring Estrela is centered around the Basílica da Estrela, a white-domed baroque church from the 18th century and the Jardim da Estrela gardens, a favorite place for Lisbon families to cool off in summer. Nearby Campo de Ourique is a village within the city: Built largely in the early 20th century on a flat plateau, it contains some fine Art Deco buildings, a gourmet market, and excellent shops and cafes away from the tourist trail (even though it’s the terminus of Tram 28). The Cemitério dos Prazeres, Lisbon’s oldest cemetery, is here; a stroll among the popular trees and grand 19th-century tombs is a peaceful escape from the urban bustle.

Mouraria, Graça & intendente At the other end of tramline 28 is Graça, a bustling, quintessentially Lisbon area atop one of the tallest hills. A leafy terrace in front of the baroque Convento da Graça is one of the best places to enjoy a drink with a view. Tumbling down the hill is the medieval Arab neighborhood of Mouraria, whose maze of alleys echoes to the sound of fado. It leads down to Intendente, once a seedy red-light district, now fast upcoming, particularly around Largo do Intendente Pina Manique, home to the tiled facade of Viúva Lamego, one of the city’s best ceramic stores. Largo Martin Moniz is a focus for Lisbon’s Chinese and South Asian communities; around it are Asian groceries and some tasty hole-in-the-wall eateries.

Parque das NaÇÕes Strung out along the Tagus at Lisbon’s northeastern extremity, Parque das Nações is a modernist counterpoint to the city’s retro charms. It holds Lisbon’s most-visited attraction, the Oceanário, one of the world’s biggest and best aquariums, containing a panoply of sea life from huge rays to tiny fluorescent jellyfish. The whole neighborhood was developed on a former industrial site for the 1998 World’s Fair. Among all the architecture is an interactive science museum that kids will love, a big shopping mall, casino, theaters showcasing dance and music, towering hotels, and some first-class riverside restaurants.

Getting Around

Central Lisbon is relatively compact and walking is a joy, although because of the hills it can be hard on the feet. There’s a clean, safe, and efficient subway system, and the trams and buses can be a delight to ride through the historic streets. Traffic gets jammed at rush hour, driving in narrow old town streets is challenging, and parking hard to find except in expensive parking lots. Public transport is a better option. Taxis are plentiful, easy to hail, and cheap compared to many other European cities. Uber and other ride-hailing services are available. Ferries can take you to destinations across the Tagus, and suburban trains run out to Cascais and Sintra. There’s a plethora of tourist-related transport options: from tuk-tuks to bikes and electronic scooters.

One Card, Many Rides

For most modes of public transport in Lisbon and surrounding areas, you can use the Viva Viagem card, which can be bought at ticket booths and machines at metro stations as well as the post office, most newsagents, and other shops bearing MOB and Payshop logos. They cost just 0.50€ and can be charged up with amounts from 3€ to 40€ through a system called zapping. Using the card, a single ride costs 1.31€. The amount is deducted from your card when you touch it on a contact pad as you enter and leave metro or train station platforms, or board the bus. In comparison, a single ticket for the metro costs 1.45€ and a bus ride is 2€ if you buy a ticket on board. The cards can also be used on suburban trains like those heading to Cascais and Sintra, ferry boats crossing the Tagus river, and Lisbon’s iconic trams and funiculars. You must buy a card for each person traveling. They are valid for a year, if you are planning a return trip. Alternatively, you can buy a daily card offering unlimited 24-hour travel for 6.40€ for the bus, street car, and metro, or 10.55€ if you add suburban train services, for example to Cascais and Sintra. Avoid buying your ticket at the ever-crowded Cais do Sodré railway station.

Metro The Metro (www.metrolisboa.pt), Lisbon’s clean and modern subway, is the quickest and easiest way to get around. There are four lines identified by colors: red, yellow, blue, and green. Many of the metro stations are clad in tiles decorated by modern artists and are attractions in their own right. The Olaias, Parque, and Cidade Universitária stations are recommended. The Metro operates daily from 6:30am to 1am.

Bus, Tram, Train & Ferry The city bus company Carris (www.carris.pt) runs an extensive network that gets to places the metro doesn’t reach. Carris also runs street cars (eléctricos), often using little yellow trollies dating back to the early 1900s, which have become a major attraction for visitors (annoying regular users who often find them too crowded on their commute to work). Other public transport options include the suburban rail lines run by the CP rail company (www.cp.pt) departing from Cais do Sodré station for the beach resorts of the Cascais coast, and to Sintra from Rossio station. For a cheap, off-the-beaten track adventure and great views of Lisbon, take the little orange ferry boats or fast catamarans that leave from Cais do Sodré, Terreiro do Paço, and Belém to the south bank of the Tagus.

Funiculars & Elevators Carris runs a trio of cute funiculars that will haul you up to elevated districts: Glória, which goes from Praça dos Restauradores to Rua São Pedro de Alcântara; Bica, from Rua da Boavista in Santos to the Bairro Alto; and Lavra, from the eastern side of Avenida da Liberdade to Campo Mártires da Pátria. There’s also the Elevador de Santa Justa, an iron landmark constructed in 1902 and a stylish way (although you’ll have to queue) to rise from Baixa to Chiado. A pair of newer elevators will take you from Baixa to Castelo (they aren’t so picturesque, but are free and will save your feet).

Taxis & Ride Hire Taxis are plentiful, relatively cheap and easily hailed in the street in all but the busiest times. A 15-minute trip from riverside Praça do Comércio to the cool Campo de Ourique neighborhood will cost around 5€, for example. For a radio taxi, call 21/811-90-00 (www.retalis.pt). Uber and other ride hailing services such as Bolt and Cabify also operate. Tipping cab drivers is not obligatory, but most travelers will round up to the nearest euro, or add a euro or so on longer trips.

Lisbon

See also “Fast Facts” on p. 471.

Currency Exchange Currency-exchange booths at the Santa Apolónia station and at the airport are open 24 hours a day. But ATMs run by the Multibanco network offer better rates. They operate in English, and there are almost 3,000 around the city.

Dentists Among dental practices orientated to foreign visitors are: São Dente (www.saodente.pt; 21/397-00-96) at Rua Borges Carneiro 20B in Lapa; and Medidental (www.medidental.pt) with clinics in Alcantâra ( 21/590-06-20) and Campo do Ourique ( 21/139-00-01).

Drugstores Pharmacies (farmácias) normally open Monday to Friday 9am to 7pm, and Saturdays 9am to 1pm. Most in the center will have staff who speak English. A list of “farmácias de serviço” that stay open late and on Sundays are listed on the windows of all pharmacies and on the website www.farmaciasdeservico.net.

Hospitals & Doctors The U.S. embassy has a list of hospitals and doctors: (https://pt.usembassy.gov/u-s-citizen-services/doctors). Good private hospitals include Hospital da Luz (www.hospitaldaluz.pt; 21/710-44-00) and CUF (www.saudecuf.pt/en; 21/112-17-17). The English-speaking team at International Medical Clinic of Lisbon (www.cmil.pt; 21/351-33-10; located at Av. Sidónio Pais 14 beside Parque Eduardo VII) offers general and specialized services.

Internet Access Lisbon is a wired-up city. Most restaurants, cafes, and hotels have free Wi-Fi (just ask for the password). There’s also free Wi-Fi on buses, the metro, and in several public buildings.

Lost Property The Interior Ministry runs an interactive web page for locating lost property (https://perdidoseachados.mai.gov.pt), but it’s only in Portuguese. Failing that, the Lisbon police lost property office is at Secção de Achados da PSP, Praça Cidade de Salazar Lote 180 in the Olivais Sul district near the airport ( 21/853-54-03; open Mon–Fri 9am–12:30pm and 1:30–4pm). If you’ve lost something on a CP train, call customer service at 70/721-02-20.

Luggage Storage & Lockers Lisbon airport runs a baggage storage system near the P2 car park ( 21/841-35-94). It’s open 24/7. Prices start from 3.36€ per day for luggage less than 10kg. There are coin-operated lockers at the following Lisbon train stations: Cais do Sodré, Lisboa Oriente, Lisboa Santa Apolónia, Rossio. and Sete Rios, with a 24-hour limit. Among several private storage operators are City Lockers (www.citylockers.pt), which has lockers in Rossio metro station and in the parking lots at Martin Moniz and Praça da Figueira; or Luggage Storage Lisbon (www.luggagestoragelisbon.com; 21/346-03-90), which has storage in the Chiado and Parque das Nações areas. Online storage booking services like Stasher (www.stasher.com) and Bagbnb (www.bagbnb.com) also operate in Lisbon with local partners.

Police For emergencies call 112. There is a “tourist police” unit dealing with travelers’ problems based in the pink Palácio Foz building in Praça dos Restauradores ( 21/342-16-23 or 21/340-00-90).

Safety Violent crime against tourists is rare, but pickpocketing and theft from parked cars are problems. Don’t leave valuables in cars if you can avoid it, even during daylight. Pickpockets and bag snatchers tend to focus on crowded areas where there are lots of tourists. The Chiado district and the Portas do Sol viewpoint in Lisbon are hotspots. They also operate on public transport: Take special care on packed Lisbon streetcars. If you are robbed, it’s best to report it to the police. They may not put out an all-points alert, but they will return stolen documents which frequently show up dumped by criminals after they’ve emptied purses and wallets of cash. Foreigners are frequently approached by shady characters offering cocaine or marijuana. What they sell is usually fake. They can seem intimidating and appear to operate with impunity. It’s best to politely say “no, thanks” and walk away.

Taxes Lisbon (and Cascais) imposes a 2€ city tax on hotel bills on a per-person, per-night basis for all visitors over 13, up to a maximum 7 nights.

Where to Stay

Lisbon has a wider range of accommodations than ever before. New hotels are sprouting up all the time, often in tastefully restored historic buildings. Unfortunately, as Lisbon’s popularity grows, so do the prices. Short-term rentals have also expanded rapidly in Lisbon, with over 18,300 vacation apartments—known as Alojamento Local—registered between 2013 and 2019. They cater to all budgets, are often in restored historic buildings, and can offer practical alternatives to traditional hotels. Check out platforms like Airbnb.com and HomeAway.com.

Baixa & Chiado

Expensive

Martinhal Chiado This elegant city center five-star hotel is dedicated to families. Parents will enjoy the cool, clean design incorporated into a 19th-century mansion block. Kiddies will love the colorful family apartments, climbing wall, Xbox sessions, and pajama parties. There are supervised, complimentary kids-club activities for different age groups from early morning ’til 10pm. You can lunch with the offspring in the fun cafe serving Italian food and decorated with a vintage three-wheeler micro-car; then head out to dinner in the chic Chiado restaurants close by while the hotel’s babysitters look after junior. The owners developed the family-friendly concept after traveling with their own four children, and have sister hotels and resorts in Cascais and the Algarve.

Rua das Flores, 44. www.martinhal.com. 21/850-77-88. 37 units. 244€–650€ studios and apartments. Metro: Baixa-Chiado. Private parking 25€ for 24 hours, reservation required. Amenities: Restaurant; kid’s club; indoor play room; babysitting; free Wi-Fi.

Memmo Príncipe Real Lisbon’s second Memmo hotel maintains the group’s high standards. It blends into the hillside down a tiny lane leading out of one of Lisbon’s trendiest neighborhoods. Breathtaking views, elegant contemporary design in local limestone and painted tiles, and specially commissioned artworks. All rooms have Bang & Olufsen TVs and Hermes toiletries. Some have balconies overlooking the city and outdoor fireplaces. The stylish restaurant has modern Portuguese cuisine with influences from Asia, Brazil, and Africa.

Rua D. Pedro V, 56 J. www.memmohotels.com. 21/901-68-00. 41 units. 270€–554€ doubles. Tram 24. Paid parking 30€ daily. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; outdoor pool; free Wi-Fi.

Pousada de Lisboa This flagship addition to the Pousada chain of historic inns occupies a strategic location on riverside Praça do Comércio, in the heart of downtown. The sturdy, pastel-painted building is typical of the Pombaline style and was once Portugal’s Interior Ministry. Its interior is filled with artworks and artifacts, including a number of works by the abstract painter Nadir Afonso. After decades of neglect, a 9€-million restoration program transformed the regal building into a first-class downtown accommodation. It has an indoor pool, a fine steak restaurant, and made-in-Portugal Castelbel toiletries in marble bathrooms. Orchids on the breakfast tables are a nice touch.

Praça do Comércio, 31-34. www.pousadas.pt/pt/hotel/pousada-lisboa. 21/040-76-40. 90 units. 233€–429€ doubles. Metro: Terreiro do Paço. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; indoor swimming pool; spa; gym; massage service; babysitting; free Wi-Fi.

Verride Palácio Santa Catarina Opened in 2017, this restored palace was an immediate success. Madonna reportedly loved it so much she wanted it for her Lisbon home. Robert De Niro and the Queen of Belgium were also among early guests. Built in the 1750s, the palace occupies a skyline-dominating site and one of the city’s best viewpoints. Marvel at the marble archways, stucco ceilings and panels of antique tiles, all clustered around a monumental 18th-century staircase. On the roof, the pool and fashionable bar/restaurant offer jaw-dropping, 360-degree views. If you can afford it, the huge royal suites are decked out in lemon-yellow silk and stucco work like piped cream. It’s grand, but the ambience is relaxed and unstuffy. Glorious floral arrangements are the work of the part-owner Dutch flower merchant.

Rua de Santa Catarina, 1. www.verridesc.pt. 21/157-30-55. 19 units. 299€–1,000€ doubles; 850€–3,000€ suites. Tram: 28. Amenities: 2 restaurants; bar; outdoor pool; sun terrace; library; babysitting; free Wi-Fi.

Moderate

Casa Baltazar This classy bed-and-breakfast is a secret hideaway in the heart of the city. It’s located in a discreet townhouse owned by the same family since 1882. They also own the Confeitaria Nacional, Lisbon’s oldest (and arguably best) pastry shop, which guarantees a treat at breakfast time. Rooms blend modern art with antique furnishings. The best have private terraces with hot tubs and panoramic views over the Baixa and St. George’s Castle. It’s a 2-minute walk from Rossio square or the Carmo ruins. There’s a secret garden with lawn, loungers, and pool. Inside, a cozy lounge comes with honesty bar, art books, and quirky ceramics.

Rua do Duque, 26. www.casabalthazarlisbon.com. 91/708-55-68. 19 units. 160€–350€ doubles; 195€–340€ suites. Tram: 24. Free parking (reservation required). Adults only. Amenities: Heated outdoor pool; sun terrace; garden; Jacuzzi; bar; free Wi-Fi.

Lisbon Accommodations

Casa do Barão The “Baron’s House,” an aristocratic residence built after the 1755 earthquake, is now a friendly, family-run bed-and-breakfast, a haven in a quiet side street just off the bustle of Chiado. Rooms are spacious and white-painted with soft drapes, period prints, and marble bathrooms. Some are decorated with Bordallo Pinheiro ceramics. The top suites and rooms have private terraces and spectacular views. There’s a courtyard pool, and you can breakfast in a secret garden filled with tropical vegetation. Complimentary port and muscatel wines await in the library.

Rua da Emenda, 84. www.casadobarao.com. 96/794-41-43. 12 units. 105€–290€ doubles; 260€–390€ suites. Tram: 28. Public parking nearby. Adults only. Amenities: Bar; outdoor swimming pool, garden; free Wi-Fi.

Hotel do Chiado Occupying the two upper floors of a building restored by Pritzker Prize–winning Álvaro Siza Vieira after fire ravaged many of the Chiado’s historic stores in 1988, Hotel do Chiado has a hard-to-beat location. Top-floor rooms have private lawns offering amazing views over the city and river. You can also admire the vista over cocktails on the terrace of the rooftop bar amid blooming bougainvillea and wildflowers. Rooms are comfortably sized and furnished in modern-classic style with sober natural tones, and they’re just an elevator ride from the designer stores and centuries-old shops below.

Rua Nova do Almada, 114. www.hoteldochiado.pt. 21/325-61-00. 39 units. 119€–353€ double. Parking 12€ daily, reservation required. Metro: Baixa-Chiado. Amenities: Bar; sun terrace; free Wi-Fi.

International Design Hotel From the floor-to-ceiling windows of the bar or the private balconies in suites and superior rooms, guests enjoy unique views over Rossio square, Lisbon’s favorite meeting spot for centuries. Opened in the 1920s, the hotel received a total makeover in 2009. The exterior features creamy columns, lilac walls, and intricate wrought-iron railings. Inside it’s hyper-hip, with modern art and colorful design features. Rooms are decorated according to Pop, Tribal, Urban, or Zen themes. The second-floor Bastardo restaurant is a favorite for Lisbon trendsetters.

Rua da Betesga, 3. www.idesignhotel.com. 21/324-09-90. 55 units. Doubles 77€–324€. Metro: Rossio. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; garden; babysitting; free Wi-Fi.

LX Boutique Hotel Once the emblematic Hotel Braganza, a hang-out for Lisbon’s 19th-century literary set: it features prominently in José Saramago’s novel The Year of the Death of Ricardo Reis. Reborn in 2010 as this cool boutique hotel, the LX maintains a historic ambience behind the sky-blue exterior. Each floor is themed—one is dedicated to poet Fernando Pessoa, another to fado music, with rooms featuring photos of guitars and singers. Interiors have bold colors, stripes, and floral prints. Standard rooms are rather small, but gain in size, light, and river views as you get higher up. The ground floor has a restaurant renowned for sushi, although for breakfast it serves goodies from the nearby Tartine bakery. For better or worse, the hotel is smack in the middle of Lisbon’s nightlife action.

Rua do Alecrim 12. www.lxboutiquehotel.com. 21/347-43-94. 61 units. 140€–275€ double; 409€–439€ suite. Metro: Cais do Sodré. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; babysitting; free Wi-Fi.

Inexpensive

The Independente This cool operator combines a hip hostel offering bargain bunks with elegantly bohemian rooms and suites. The hostel and four suites are set in the artfully decorated Belle Époque former home of the Swiss ambassador; 18 more suites fill in the palace next door. The location is hard to beat, overlooking one of the best panoramic views, on the edge of Bairro Alto nightlife and the chic shopping zones of Príncipe Real and Chiado. In mixed and single-gender dorms for 6, 9, or 12, furniture is Nordic minimal, the cotton sheets crisp and clean. There’s a spacious kitchen and a light-filled lounge hosting movie nights and occasional live music. Separately, they offer private rooms and suites offering a taste of offbeat luxury. There are two excellent restaurants on site, including The Insolito on the roof. The group has recently opened an offshoot, The Indy, in the fast upcoming Intendente quarter.

Rua S. Pedro de Alcântara 81. www.theindependente.pt. 21/346-13-81. 33 units. 94€–234€ double; 10€–34€ dorm bunks. Tram 24. Amenities: Bar; 2 restaurants; free Wi-Fi.

My Story Tejo The hotel reception greets guests with a funky mix of bare brick and contemporary wood and glass. This youthful hotel is just a short walk from Rossio. It was made by combining two smaller hotels in a building that contains the remains of a Roman wall and Pombaline arches. Rooms are simple but comfortable with modern pine furniture, soft-wool blankets, and white cotton sheets. They are a bit on the small side (taller guests should take care if they take an attic room) but many have high windows and balconies facing the bustling street, and some have castle views.

Rua dos Condes de Monsanto, 2. www.mystoryhotels.com. 21-886-6182. 130 units. Doubles: 87€–254€. Metro: Rossio. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; free Wi-Fi.

Sunset Destination Hostel Downtown accommodation with a riverside rooftop pool for less than 20€ a night? Sounds impossible? Well if you don’t mind bunking down in a dorm, it’s perfectly feasible here. One of Lisbon’s premium hostels is perfectly located for exploring downtown, hitting the nightlight hotspots, and escaping to the beach. It’s located upstairs from the Cais do Sodré station, where trains depart along the coast to Cascais. There are electronic lockers, a funky design featuring French comic strip art, bikes to hire, surf school trips, and other activities. All in an Art Deco gem of a building within staggering distance of the bars on Pink Street. Double rooms with private bathrooms are available.

Praça do Duque de Terceira. www.sunset-destination-hostel.lisbon-hotel.org. 21/099-77-35. 20 units. 53€–125€ double; 19€–46€ dorm. Metro: Cais do Sodré. Amenities: Bar; outdoor pool (Apr–Sept); sun terrace; shared kitchen; lockers; free Wi-Fi.

Alfama & East of Center

Expensive

Palacete Chafariz d’el Rei Between Alfama and the river, this theatrical oddity was built by a coffee tycoon in a turn-of-the-20th-century style known as Brazilian Nouveau. A 2-year restoration respects the hotel’s heritage, with stucco ceilings, polychrome tiled floors, and tropical plants. Rooms are spacious, overflowing with crystal chandeliers, hardwood antiques, and velvety drapes. The terrace garden filled with flowering plants is a delight for taking afternoon tea.

Travessa Chafariz del Rei 6. www.chafarizdelrei.com. 21/888-61-50. 6 units. 263€–580€ suites. Metro: Terreiro do Paco. Amenities: Garden; terrace; library; babysitting; free Wi-Fi.

Palácio Belmonte There are hotels with history, and then there is the Palácio Belmonte. The Romans built one of the towers, and another two were erected over a thousand years ago when the Arabs ruled Lisbon. The noble palace chambers linking them together were constructed in the 15th century and once were home to the family of explorer Pedro Álvares Cabral, who led the first European expedition to Brazil. The current French owner invested 26€-million into turning the palace into an ultra-luxurious hotel with 10 suites. Each is unique and furnished with original antiques, and most have fabulous views. There are bathrooms clad in rare gray marble with walk-in showers, sunken baths, and their own panoramic vistas. One tower-topping bedroom boasts 360-degree views high above the city; others have private terraces where you can take your organic, freshly prepared breakfast. The walled garden has luxuriant vegetation, a swimming pool, and a waterfall. Walls are coated with more than 3,000 18th-century tiles. The French restaurant is a gourmet treat. There’s a minimum 2-night stay, but you’ll want more.

Páteo Dom Fradique 14. www.palaciobelmonte.com. 21/881-66-00. 11 units. 650€–3,100€ suites. Free parking. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; outdoor pool; sun terrace; library; garden; sauna; massage services; babysitting; free Wi-Fi.

Moderate

Memmo Alfama Set your alarm early, because this hotel has the best sunrise views over the Alfama and the Tagus. The infinity pool is brick-red, matching the rooftops of the old neighborhood tumbling down the hillside below. The hotel is tucked away down a cul-de-sac lined with citrus trees behind the 12th-century cathedral. There’s a mural outside by street artist Vhils. Modern furniture in soft creams and browns blends with ancient interior features like portions of ancient stone wall or domed baker’s ovens transformed into cozy sitting rooms. Bedrooms come with Egyptian linen sheets, LED TVs, and Apple charging docks.

Travessa das Merceeiras, 27. www.memmohotels.com. 21/049-56-60. 42 units. 157€–4,220€ doubles. Tram: 28. Amenities: Bar; outdoor pool; babysitting; free Wi-Fi.

Myriad by SANA Hotels Lisboa Soaring 23 floors out of the River Tagus in the ultra-modern Parque das Nações district, the light-filled rooms of this landmark built in 2012 enjoy fabulous sunrises. There’s a bold red-and-black design running through the rooms and public spaces, and a towering atrium complete with jellyfish-shaped chandeliers. The whole thing has a distinctly Dubai feel. Views get more spectacular as you rise toward the penthouse spa and fitness center. The deck of the River Lounge bar is the place to enjoy a waterfront port and tonic. All rooms feature a hammock seat beside the panoramic window, where it feels like you’re floating over the Tagus. Basque multi-Michelin-star-winner Martin Berasategui oversees the 50 Seconds restaurant, 120 meters over the Tagus.

Cais das Naus, Lote 2.21.01. www.myriad.pt. 21-110-7600. 186 units. 146€–413€ double. Metro: Moscavide. Private parking 15€ daily. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; indoor swimming pool; spa; fitness room; babysitting; free Wi-Fi.

Solar dos Mouros This tasteful, artsy micro-hotel sits below the walls of the São Jorge Castle in the oldest part of the city. It has an intimate atmosphere and offers panoramic terraces perfect for a glass of port or plate of petiscos (snacks) while enjoying the sunset over the city and river below. Rooms feature bold color schemes and modern art—many by owner Luís Lemos. If you can, grab the deluxe suite with vast private balconies and unique marble-clad bathroom with a view.

Rua Milagre de Santo António 6. www.solardosmouroslisboa.com. 21/885-49-40. 11 units. 132€–275€ double; 325€–365€ suites. Adults only. Tram: 28. Amenities: Bar; snacks; terrace; massage services; free Wi-Fi.

Inexpensive

Albergaria da Senhora do Monte It’s off the beaten track, a bit dated and with rooms on the small side, but this little place has bedroom views among the best in town. Perched on a hilltop in an old neighborhood served by Tram 28, the inn makes a fine budget option. The best rooms have balconies and big windows overlooking the city and river. All guests can enjoy the vistas from the top-floor breakfast room. It’s cozy with a family home vibe, but can be a bit tough to get to on foot up on its hilltop perch.

Calçada do Monte 39. www.albergaria-senhora-do-monte.inlisbonhotels.com. 21/886-60-02. 28 units. 84€–144€ double. Nearby private parking 20€ daily. Tram: 28. Amenities: Bar; terrace; free Wi-Fi.

Hotel Convento do Salvador Amid the medieval lanes of Alfama, this old convent has been converted into a hotel with Scandinavian-style minimalist rigor. There’s a hip bar and a spacious patio for chilling on summer evenings. The white walls are enlivened by colorful works by contemporary Portuguese artists. There are family and reduced-mobility rooms. It’s also a hotel with a social conscience, proud of its environmental credentials and supporting children in need. Several rooms have river views.

Rua do Salvador, 2B. www.conventosalvador.pt. 21-887-2565. 43 units. 97€–193€ double. Tram: 28. Nearby public parking 15€ daily. Amenities: Bar; garden; sun terrace; library; babysitting; free Wi-Fi.

Belém & West of Center

Expensive

Altis Belém This marble-clad cube of modernist luxury is so close to the waterfront it feels like you’re on a cruise liner floating down the River Tagus. It sits in the Belém district within sight of the iconic white tower, the UNESCO-rated Jerónimos Monastery, and the galleries and concert halls of the Centro Cultural de Belém. Despite all the history around it, the hotel is rigorously contemporary. The bar and lounge have clean black-and-white lines with liberal use of leather furniture and hardwood decks. Natural light is a big feature in the public and guest rooms, thanks to floor-to-ceiling windows opening out onto the water. All the rooms are spacious and airy with great views. A top perk: the panorama from the rooftop pool. Downstairs, the Spa by Karin Herzog has 1,000 square meters (10,764 sq. ft.) where you can relax with a massage, sauna, or Turkish bath, or work out in the gym or dynamic pool. After burning up the calories, treat yourself in the Michelin-starred Feitoria restaurant.

Doca do Bom Sucesso, Belém. www.altishotels.com. 21/040-02-00. 50 units. 176€–468€ double; 486€–846€ suite. Tram 15. Free parking, reservation required. Amenities: 2 restaurants; bar; outdoor pool; spa; sauna; hammam; jacuzzi; indoor pool; sun terrace; garden; fitness center; massage services; free Wi-Fi.

Lapa Palace Back in the 1880s, the Count of Valenças made his palatial home the glittering center of Lisbon’s high society. The city’s best artists were invited to decorate its grand salons and ballrooms, and a lush tropical garden was laid out where the in-crowd could stroll beside streams and waterfalls. Since 1992, the count’s palace has been one of the capital’s most luxurious hotels, favored by royalty, presidents, and movie stars. The 109 rooms are all individually decorated, in keeping with the building’s heritage, with themes ranging from rococo to Art Deco. The palace is located among the embassies and mansions of Lapa district on a hillside with broad views across the Tagus. The outside pool, set amid the tranquil greenery, is kept at a constant 25°C (77°F) from May through September, and there’s a fully equipped spa, gym, and indoor pool center. The gourmet restaurant features five-star variations on Portuguese cuisine. Most rooms are in a modern six-story wing, but continue the palatial decor.

Rua do Pau da Bandeira 4. www.lapapalace.com. 21/394-94-94. 109 units. 340€–755€ double; 755€–2,800€ suite. Free parking. Tram 25. Amenities: 2 restaurants; bar; babysitting; children’s play area; fitness center; indoor and outdoor pools; spa; massage service; sauna, hammam; free Wi-Fi.

Pestana Palace This temple of five-star luxury is in the Romantic Revival Valle-Flor palace, constructed by a marquis who made a fortune in African cocoa. The main building contains a succession of ever-more-opulent salons filled with Louis XV furniture, gilt-framed oil paintings, crystal chandeliers, windows bright with stained-glass nymphs. Built in 1905, the palace and its magnificent gardens are protected national heritage sites. Most of the guest rooms are located in two modern wings overlooking the tropical flora, but there are four opulent suites in the main palace. Most rooms are elegantly modern, with hardwood trim, trompe l’oeil detailing, and upholstered headboards. Between Belém and downtown, it’s a bit out of the way, but there’s a free shuttle bus four times a day.

Rua Jau 54. www.pestana.com. 21/361-56-00. 190 units. 184€–485€ double; 489€–3,005€ suite. Parking 17€ daily. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; babysitting; exercise room; Jacuzzi; spa; indoor and outdoor pools; garden; sun terrace; sauna, business center; chapel; free Wi-Fi.

Moderate

As Janelas Verdes This boutique hotel in an 18th-century mansion was once a hangout of novelist José Maria Eça de Queiros, whose 19th-century epic The Maias is partly set nearby in “green windows street.” Designer Graça Viterbo has given it a comfortably contemporary feel in keeping with the literary history. Rooms have modern facilities and period charm, with wood furnishings and pastel drapes on the tall windows. There are two honesty bars and a cozy top-floor library with a fireplace and terrace. The mansion’s ivy-clad garden is a lovely spot for breakfast, and all the masterpieces of the Museu de Arte Antiga are just next door.

Rua das Janelas Verdes 47. www.asjanelasverdes.com. 21/396-81-43. 29 units. 139€–650€ double. Parking 10€. Tram: 15, 25. Amenities: Bar; garden; terrace; library; free Wi-Fi.

Hotel da Estrela In a quiet neighborhood featuring one of Lisbon’s most beautiful gardens is this luxury boutique hotel. It’s located in the former palace of the Counts of Paraty, a historic Brazilian town. The interiors feature quirky, colorful designs that reference old-style school rooms. They are the brainchild of Miguel Câncio Martins, the designer behind Paris’ Buddha Bar and the Pacha in Marrakech. All the spacious rooms have views over the city, the River Tagus, or the hotel’s own peaceful garden. For a real treat, book one of the Hästens suites kitted out by the Swedish firm reputed to make the world’s most comfortable beds. There’s an excellent restaurant, Book, where customers choose how much they want to pay. Many of the efficient young staff are graduates from the next-door hotel school.

Rua Saraiva de Carvalho, 35. www.hoteldaestrela.com. 21/190-01-00. 19 units. Doubles 110€–190€; suites 125€–219€. Parking 15€ daily. Metro: Rato. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; garden; terrace; babysitting; free Wi-Fi.

Avenida & North of Center

Expensive

Four Seasons Hotel Ritz Lisbon Back in the 1950s, dictator António de Oliveira Salazar decided Lisbon needed a modern five-star hotel. The Ritz was the result. Still a modernist icon, it’s a byword for service and luxury overlooking Eduardo VII Park. The lounge contains one of the best private collections of 20th-century Portuguese art; the Varanda restaurant is among the city’s finest; there’s a vast spa and a bar that remains the rendezvous of choice for the Lisbon elite. An extra bonus is the rooftop running track and fitness center 10 stories over the city. Rooms feature mahogany canopied marquetry desks and satinwood dressing tables, and plush carpeting. Try for one of the rooms with a private terrace overlooking the park.

Rua Rodrigo de Fonseca 88. www.fourseasons.com/lisbon. 21/381-14-00. 282 units. 575€–830€ double; 1,145€–3,950€ suite. Private parking 40€ daily. Metro: Marquês de Pombal. Amenities: 2 restaurant; 2 bars; spa; indoor pool; Pilates studio; fitness center; massage services; rooftop running track; free Wi-Fi.

The One Palácio da Anunciada Walk into the lobby and you’re met by a symphony of colors from the marbled floors and walls, stained-glass windows, stucco ceilings, and extravagant floral arrangements. Opened in 2019, this five-star occupies a once-abandoned 16th-century palace. Barcelona-based designer Jaime Beriestain has blended the building’s history with a stripped-down design in dazzling white that’s softened by subtle greys and warm colors in the rooms and suites. There are 2,500 square meters (3,000 sq. yards) of garden, including a pool and sun terrace forming a welcome oasis, just a block from bustling Avenida da Liberdade. A highlight is the 100-year-old dragon tree. A grey-marble-clad spa, high-tech gym, two elegant bars, and a gourmet restaurant in one of the palace’s noble salons round out the package.

Rua das Portas de Santo Antão, 112-134. www.hotelstheone.com. 21/041-23-00. 83 units. 220€–458€ double; 288€–668 suite. Private parking 30€ daily. Metro: Restauradores. Amenities: Restaurant; 2 bars; spa; gym; sun terrace; outdoor pool; babysitting; free Wi-Fi.

Tivoli Lisboa This Lisbon landmark has been attracting visiting politicians, artists, and stars since the 1930s. The lobby oozes old-world elegance with marble columns and velvet armchairs in rich, deep tones. It’s long been the preferred meeting spot for Lisbon’s business elite. New owners gave this grand dame a facelift in 2016, installing the sumptuous Anantara spa, a traditional Portuguese beer-and-shellfish restaurant and, more recently, hip Seen restaurant on the rooftop Sky Bar, already one of the capital’s hottest spots on summer evenings. Rooms are big and airy, overlooking the tree-lined avenue or the lush garden and pool below. They are decorated in modern classic style with easy-on-the-eyes shades predominating. Portuguese movie icon Beatriz Costa liked it so much, she lived there for 30 years.

Av. da Liberdade 185. www.tivolihotels.com. 21/319-89-00. 285 units. 325€–685€ double; 514€–932€ suite. Parking 17.50€ daily. Metro: Avenida. Amenities: 2 restaurants; 3 bars; spa; massage services; sauna; fitness center; outdoor pool; garden; terrace; babysitting; free Wi-Fi.

Moderate

1908 Lisboa Hotel There’s a clue to this place’s vintage in this splendid Art Nouveau construction, whose restoration and reopening in 2017 symbolized the regeneration of the once-seedy Intendente neighborhood. Room decor is restrained and comfortable. For a real treat, book the duplex suite in the dome that crowns the building. The cool Infame restaurant shows off the building’s original features. There are regular displays by contemporary artists. This is a perfect base for exploring the new shops and restaurants of the exciting neighborhood, which is just a short walk from downtown.

Largo do Intendente Pina Manique, 6. www.1908lisboahotel.com. 21-880-4000. 36 units. 119€–309€ double. Private parking nearby 20€ daily, reservation required. Metro: Intendente. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; free Wi-Fi.

DL Valmor Palace Lisbonites were delighted to see new life breathed into this iconic building, which had lain abandoned for over a decade before being transformed into this charming boutique hotel in 2019. Located on busy Avenida da República, the two-story mansion scooped up the city’s top architecture prize when it was built in 1906 as home for the Viscountess of Valmor. It served for many years as a businessman’s club and fine restaurant. A tasteful restoration maintains the romantic ambiance with heavy drapes and oriental rugs, chandeliers and empire-style wall paintings. A little out of downtown, but close to the Gulbenkian museums.

Av. da República 38. www.dearlisbon.com. 21/249-71-87. 12 units. 79€–247€ double; 121€–285€ suite. Metro: Campo Pequeno. Amenities: Garden, terrace; free Wi-Fi.

Heritage Avenida Liberdade Hotel This boutique hotel combines the 18th-century grandeur of the original building with understated contemporary style. With its sumptuous sofas, low lighting, and sweet scent, the foyer is as relaxing as the spa and pool downstairs. Rooms feature stylish wallpaper, chaises longues, large, cool en-suites, and city center views. Some have French windows opening onto Juliet balconies overlooking the Avenida. Bedding is cloud-like—we love the array of pillows.

Av. da Liberdade 28. www.heritageavliberdade.com. 21/340-40-40. 41 units. 162€–600€ double. Public parking nearby 15€ daily, reservation needed. Metro: Restauradores. Amenities: Bar; exercise room; indoor pool; babysitting; free Wi-Fi.

Hotel Avenida Palace The Avenida Palace first opened in 1892 as a typical grand hotel in the European fin-de-siècle style. Full of atmosphere, the hotel hosted well-heeled refugees from the Spanish Civil War, undercover agents during World War II, and stars of screen and stage in the ’50s and ’60s. It later fell on hard times, but has since had its glamor restored. The neoclassical landmark is strategically located between Rossio Square and the start of Avenida da Liberdade, close to all the city center attractions. The public rooms are glittering confections of gilt, crystal, and marble. An English-style bar in hardwood and worn leather is famed for its cocktails, and 5 o’clock tea with scones is served by white-coated waiters in the palatial main salon. This is a genuine classic in the heart of the city.

Rua 1 de Dezembro 123. www.hotelavenidapalace.pt. 21/321-81-00. 82 units. 181€–287€ double; 307€–700€ suite. Limited free parking. Metro: Restauradores. Amenities: Bar; babysitting; exercise room; free Wi-Fi.

Hotel Britania Built in the 1940s by famed Portuguese architect Cassiano Branco, this hotel is an Art Deco gem. It has been restored to enhance its original 1940s style, with a dash of contemporary design. The location on a quiet road off the Avenida da Liberdade means you can escape the city traffic and retreat to the clubby bar, library, and lounge, warmed in winter by an open fire. Original decor includes murals in the bar, expanses of marble, and porthole windows. Inside is an old barber’s shop converted into a small museum.

Rua Rodrigues Sampaio, 17. www.heritage.pt. 21/315-50-16. 32 units. Doubles 112€–746€. Parking 15€ daily. Metro: Avenida. Amenities: Bar; library; free Wi-Fi.

Maxime Hotel Lisbon’s sexiest hotel opened in 2018. Name and decor pay tribute to Maxime Dancing, once Lisbon’s most notorious nightspot which occupied the ground floor from the 1940s until its demise in 2011. Throughout, the hotel is inspired by the old Maxime’s. There are blow up black-and-white photos of dancers in stockings and bodices, a bondage-themed room decorated with handcuffs and black feather dusters, and cabaret shows featuring standup comics and burlesque entertainers in the restaurant/bar that occupies the old nightclub. It could have turned out sleazy, but instead the atmosphere is cheeky but sophisticated. Even so, probably better for a romantic getaway à deux than a family vacation. It’s set in a verdant square, just a few steps from Lisbon’s grandest boulevard.

Praça da Alegria, 58. www.maximehotellisbon.com. 21/876-00-00. 75 units. Doubles 119€–254€. Metro: Avenida. Amenities: Restaurant; bars; terrace; garden; free Wi-Fi.

Torel Palace This charming boutique hotel occupies a pair of 1900s mansions in a noble, but little-visited hilltop district overlooking Avenida Da Liberdade. One is painted in bold blue, the other a soft pink. Decor in the rooms reflects that mix of primary or pastel shades. All the rooms are named after Portuguese royalty. Our favorite is Dona Amélia, with royal blue walls and astounding views from the veranda. Between the two buildings is a leafy garden patio paved with traditional tiles and a pool that makes up for its small size with a hillside location and great views. Recent additions include a private villa and the innovative Cave 23 restaurant.

Rua Câmara Pestana, 23. www.torelboutiques.com. 21-829-0810. 26 units. Doubles 120€–420€. Parking 15€ daily. Metro: Avenida (then take the funicular). Amenities: Restaurants; bars; outdoor pool; garden; sun terrace; babysitting; free Wi-Fi.

Inexpensive

Casa de São Mamede This solid, yellow-painted townhouse was built in 1758 as a magistrate’s home and has been a hotel since 1948. It’s great value for money on the edge of the happening Príncipe Real district. The good-sized rooms are individually decorated. Some may feel a tad old-fashioned, but most have a stylishly uncluttered historical style, and all have private bathrooms. Breakfast is served in a sunny second-floor dining room decorated with antique tiles. Service is friendly and attentive.

Rua da Escola Politécnica 159. www.casadesaomamede.pt. 21/396-31-66. 28 units. 99€–224€ double. Metro: Rato; Tram 24. Amenities: Free Wi-Fi.

HF Fénix Music The best of a row of mid-20th-century hotels run by the HF group just across from Eduardo VII Park. This one has a musical theme. Each room is decorated according to a style from jazz to classical to fado. There are live bands and DJ sets beside the rooftop pool and bar, where there’s a city view that’s the envy of many more expensive hotels. High-tech sound systems allow guests to turn their rooms into a personalized disco. The check-in desk is shaped like a drum kit and the bar’s a piano keyboard.

Rua Joaquim António de Aguiar, 5. www.hfhotels.com. 21/049-65-70. 109 units. 81€–193€ double. Metro: Marquês de Pombal. Amenities: Bar; outdoor pool; sun terrace; free Wi-Fi.

Where to Eat

Baixa & Chiado

Expensive

100 Maneiras INTERNATIONAL Sarajevo-born chef Ljubomir Stanisic is a star in Portugal. He judges TV cooking contests, fronts food documentaries and played Gordon Ramsey’s role in Portugal’s version of “Kitchen Nightmares.” He’s also an excellent cook. His restaurant (which means “100 ways”) underwent its own makeover in 2019, moving down the road to a new Bairro Alto location with a mildly spooky modern-gothic interior. For the new menus, Stanisic has reached back to his Bosnian roots, serving Balkan treats like peppery ajvar and creamy kajmak along with Belenga island barnacles, amberjack, and other fishy treats plucked from the Portuguese ocean. Stanisic takes an iconoclastic approach, incorporating cough sweets, garlic, and hay into his desserts. This is a true original.

Rua do Teixeira 39. www.restaurante100maneiras.com. 21/099-04-75. Reservations recommended. Tasting menu 80€–110€. Daily 7pm–2am. Metro: Baixa-Chiado.

Belcanto CREATIVE PORTUGUESE Lisbon’s most famous fine-dining experience boasts two Michelin stars and is a regular fixture in the world’s top 50 restaurants rankings. Belcanto is the flagship of celebrity chef José Avillez’s flotilla of eateries spread around the Chiado and Baixa. In 2019 it moved from its cozy-but-cramped location in front of the São Carlos opera house to take over a more spacious neighbor with domed brick ceilings and more natural light. The discreet charm and exquisite food remain. It’s not cheap, but Avillez’s irreverent take on Portuguese classics is unique. New dishes introduced with the move include braised red mullet with squid rice, liver sauce, vegetable roe, and cuttlefish-ink aioli; and roasted, hay-smoked pigeon with foie gras and hazelnut-cinnamon sauce. Go for the tasting menus for a special treat, and sample from the incomparable wine list.

Largo de São Carlos,12. www.belcanto.pt. 21/342-06-07. Reservations required. Main courses 50€; tasting menus 165€–185€. Tues–Sat noon–3pm 6:30–11pm. Metro: Baixa/Chiado.

Gambrinus PORTUGUESE Gambrinus is resolutely old school, its menu unchanged for years and its dining room classically styled, with leather chairs under a beamed cathedral ceiling (we always try to nab the little table beside the fireplace at the raised end of the room). The restaurant is renowned for its seafood bisque, its lobster dishes, and the seafood cataplana (a traditional dish from the Algarve cooked in a copper pot). Those are all pricey, but you don’t have to break the bank to dine here: Sitting at the counter (barra), the menu is affordable, featuring petiscos (Portuguese snacks) if you feel like a mid-afternoon or late night nibble.

Rua das Portas de Santo Antão 23. www.gambrinuslisboa.com. 21/342-14-66. Reservations recommended. Mains 18€–38€. Daily noon–1:30am. Metro: Rossio.

Moderate

Aqui Há Peixe SEAFOOD The name of this stylish restaurant in the heart of one of the Chiado’s prettiest squares translates as “Here there are fish”—and so there is, a lot of it, freshly caught and selected by Chef Miguel Reino from Lisbon’s markets. On our last visit, we started with one of the few fish not lately plucked from Portuguese waters (anchovies from off Spain’s northern Cantabrian coast), but followed up with a whole Atlantic turbot for two, served with rice cut with tangy rapini greens, followed up with vanilla ice cream doused in a thick fig syrup. There’s meat if you must: The Brazilian-style picanha steak is excellent.

Rua da Trindade 18A. www.aquihapeixe.pt. 21/343-21-54. Reservations recommended. Mains 16€–45€. Tues–Fri noon–3pm, 7–11pm. Metro: Baixa/Chiado.

Cervejaria Ramiro PORTUGUESE This place has been popular since opened by a Spanish immigrant in the 1950s, but after the late Anthony Bourdain raved about it on TV, lines stretch down the street. It’s noisy, crowded and chaotic, but the wonderous seafood makes it all worth it. The usual routine is to take a series of shellfish plates, say clams with garlic and cilantro; grilled giant shrimp, leathery goose barnacles, or a football-sized crab served with a mallet to smash through the claws. Wash everything down with icy draft beer or vinho verde and follow up with a steak sandwich (prego). Try to find space for the fresh mango. They don’t take phone reservations. To avoid the queues, eat early (or late). Like with most such joints, the seafood is sold by the kilo. For lobster, crab and other larger critters ask the waiter in advance how much you’re likely to pay.

Av. Almirante Reis,1. www.cervejariaramiro.pt. 21/885-10-24. Main courses 13€–38€. Tues–Sun noon–midnight. Metro: Intendente.

Fidalgo PORTUGUESE With its marble-clad walls and displays of standout Portuguese wines, Fidalgo is a class apart from the tourist traps and cheap-booze joints that have infested much of the Bairro Alto. It’s been operating to a loyal clientele since the 1950s. The cuisine is classical Portuguese with daily specials that can include rare treats like rice with salted cod cheeks or char-grilled boar. There are over 250 wines to choose from, so let Sr. Eugénio guide you to the perfect match with your dish.

Rua da Barroca 27. www.restaurantefidalgo.com. 21/342-2900. Mains 11€–18€. Mon–Sat noon–3pm, 7–11pm. Metro: Baixa-Chiado.

Lisbon Restaurants

Ibo MOZAMBICAN/PORTUGUESE Little-known beyond the Portuguese-speaking world, the cooking of Mozambique blends African roots with Asian and European influences with delicious results. This upscale restaurant serves up a posh version of the East African nation’s delicately spiced cuisine, with prices to match. Set in a former salt warehouse, it enjoys a prime riverside view from where to watch the come and go of Tagus boats. The emphasis is on seafood. Start with crab and mango salad, move on to shrimp curry with okra, and finish up with papaya stuffed with ewe’s milk cream cheese. Wash it down with 2M beer imported from Maputo, or some chilled Douro white wine.

Armazém A, Porta 2, Cais do Sodré. www.ibo-restaurante.pt. 96/133-20-24. Reservations recommended. Mains 18€–33€. Tues–Fri 12:30–3pm, 7:30–11pm; Sat 12:30–3pm, 7:30pm–1am; Sun 12:30–3:30pm. Metro: Cais do Sodré.

Monte Mar PORTUGUESE/SEAFOOD In summer, diners flock to this fish restaurant’s deck jutting out over the river Tagus. This is the little sister of a famed seashore restaurant in Cascais and shares its reputation for serving the freshest Atlantic seafood in a stylish waterfront setting. You can eat fish for cheaper in Lisbon, but it’s hard to match the river views, or the quality of seafood. The house specialty is tempura-style hake with cockle rice, but other fine choices include squid and shrimp on a skewer, or swordfish steak, as well as the catch of the day grilled, oven-baked, or salt-baked. Among the meat selection, iscas (liver) is typically Lisbon. They also operate a riverside oyster bar through the summer. There are other offshoots in Troia and Time Out Market.

Rua da Cintura, Armazém 65. www.mmlisboa.pt. 96/334-29-83. Mains 17€–32€; Tues–Sun noon–11:30pm. Metro: Cais do Sodré.

Pap’ Açorda PORTUGUESE To dodge the crowds at the Time Out Market food hall, head upstairs to this airy space on the first floor of the old market building. Hip since the 1980s, when it was based in the Bairro Alto, the Pap’Açorda serves top-notch Portuguese dishes with a dash of innovation. It moved downhill to the market in 2016, taking up a space designed by the trendy Aires-Mateus architectural team. You can order rice with baby cuttlefish and Azores cheese or paprika-spiced black pork tenderloin, but chef Manuela Brandão’s signature is naturally açorda, a traditional mash of bread, seafood, eggs, coriander, garlic, and olive oil. Finish with their famous chocolate mousse, thick and rich and oh so good.

Mercado da Ribeira, 49, Av. 24 de Julho. www.papacorda.com. 21/346-48-11. Reservations recommended. Mains 14€–36€. Sun, Tues, Wed noon–midnight; Thurs–Sat noon–2am. Metro: Cais do Sodré.

Inexpensive

Café Buenos Aires INTERNATIONAL Founded by an Argentine-Portuguese couple, the interior of this cozy cafe resembles a Parisian bistro. Lit by yellow street lamps, the terrace offers romantic views over the Baixa. Dishes reflect the owners’ origins, like Argentine steak with chimichurri sauce or Portuguese salt cod in olive oil with sweet potatoes. There are occasional live tango nights. Fresh salads and pastas make it a great stop for a light lunch, too.

Calçada do Duque 31 B. www.cafebuenosaires.pt. 21/342-07-39. Mains 10€–26€. No credit cards. Mon–Fri 6pm–1am, Sat–Sun noon–1am. Metro: Baixa/Chiado.

João do Grão PORTUGUESE Take care dining in the Baixa district. While good traditional restaurants survive, there are plenty of rip-off joints with hidden charges and substandard food. This place, whose name translates as “Johnny Chickpea,” is the real deal. It’s been serving honest Portuguese comfort food for well over 100 years. Nobody seems to be sure exactly when it opened up under the building’s 18th-century arched ceiling, but it featured in a popular 1940s musical hit. It fills with die-hard regulars, families from the suburbs, and tourists. They enjoy an ever-changing menu featuring seasonal specialties, but the salt-cod (bacalhau) dishes are a fixture, including mixed with scrambled egg and fries (à brás) or plain boiled with those chickpeas (cozido com grão).

Rua dos Correeiros 222. www.joaograo.pai.pt. 21/342-47-57. 7.90€–15€. Summer: Mon noon–3:30pm, 6–10pm, Tues–Sun noon–10pm; Winter: Daily noon–3:30pm, 6–10pm. Metro: Rossio.

Alfama & East of Center

Moderate

Marítima de Xabregas PORTUGUESE Since 1966, hungry families have been gathering in this warehouse-sized dining space tucked away in the docklands between downtown and the Parque das Nações. The three amigos who pooled their funds to launch the place are still in charge over half-a-century later. They oversea huge charcoal-fired grills that are constantly filled with favorites like steak on the bone or slabs of codfish to be served with smoky skin-on potatoes. The more adventurous can try eel stew, a specialty from up the Tagus or (on Thurs only) cozido—Portugal’s cherished boiled meat dinner. Portions are big, ordering a portion to share between two is the norm.

Rua Manutenção, 40. www.restaurantemaritimadexabregas.com.pt. 21/868-22-35. Mains 10€–17€. Sun–Fri 7am–11pm. Bus: 728/759.

The Old House CHINESE Lisbon has become a popular European base for wealthy Chinese, with the happy consequence that the city has grown a number of very good Chinese restaurants. This one serves gorgeously presented Sichuan cuisine in a stylish dining hall decorated with red lanterns and blue ceramics, private rooms and a shady riverside terrace. The owners see themselves as ambassadors for Chinese culture and their encyclopedic menu features dishes hard to find in Europe, like tea shrimp or chicken with Chinese yam. Appropriately, its address translates as “pepper street.”

Rua Pimenta 9. www.theoldhouseportugal.pt. 96/932-27-71. Mains 8€–59€. Daily noon–3pm, 7–11pm. Metro: Oriente.

Senhor Peixe SEAFOOD “Mr. Fish” is the name and fish is very much the game in this riverside restaurant that opened 20 years ago out among the modernist architecture of the Parque das Nações district. Its slogan is “Setúbal in Lisbon,” a reference to the southern port whose famed fish market is the source of the piscatorial pleasures served up here. Most people go for charcoal-grilled catch of the day, be it seabass, gold-eyed bream, red mullet, or whatever, but there are other specialties such as a sloppy pasta stew with wreckfish (cherne, a highly-prized white fish), or Setúbal favorite fried cuttlefish with fries.

Rua da Pimenta 35. www.senhorpeixe.pt. 21/895-58-92. Mains 15€–28€. Tues–Sun noon–3:30pm, 7–10:30pm; Sun noon–3:30pm. Metro: Oriente.

Inexpensive

Cantinho do Aziz MOZAMBICAN This backstreet, family-run restaurant serves up the exotically delicious cuisine of Mozambique, a coconut and chili infused blend of African, Indian, and Portuguese flavors. It’s been a favorite in the hillside Mouraria district since the 1980s, and Chef Jeny Sulemange launched her own cookbook in 2019. Try crab curry, shrimp with okra, or baby goat with toasted coconut. Three things that are hard to resist but it might be better to go easy on: iced 2M beer shipped in from southern Africa, Chef Jeny’s fiery piri-piri sauce, and the oh-so-sweet cashew-fruit mousse for dessert.

Rua de S. Lourenço 5. www.cantinhodoaziz.com. 21/887-64-72. Mains 9€–19€. Daily noon–11pm. Metro: Martim Moniz.

O Pitéu PORTUGUESE Run by the same family since the 1960s, this is a typical neighborhood restaurant: decorative tiles on white walls, paper tablecloths, soccer game on the TV. It buzzes with the chatter of regular customers and curious newcomers wandering in from the nearby terminus of Tram 28 up in the trendy Graça neighborhood, just a short walk away from one of Lisbon’s most spectacular view points. There’s a wide daily range of traditional Portuguese dishes, but for many the highlight is fried fish served with tomato rice. Finish up with Siricaia, an eggy dessert from the Alentejo that’s accompanied by syrupy preserved plums.

Largo da Graça, 95-96. www.restauranteopiteu.pt. 21/887-10-67. Mains 10€–20€. Mon–Fri noon–3:30pm, 7–10:15pm. Tram: 28.

Belém & West of Center

Moderate

Darwin’s Café INTERNATIONAL Enjoying a spectacular waterfront location in the Champalimaud Center for the Unknown, a cutting-edge science center and architectural landmark, this vast white space is dominated by evolutionary-inspired modern art with giant, multicolored prints of 19th-century zoological tracts on the walls. Mediterranean and Portuguese influences mingle on an international menu that includes the likes of shrimp and octopus risotto with sundried tomato, and salt cod under a corn-bread crust. They have a lighter menu for snacks on the riverside terrace and are open for lanche, Portugal’s version of afternoon tea. Darwin’s is a short walk from the Torre de Belém.

Champalimaud Center for the Unknown, Av. Brasília. www.darwincafe.com. 21/048-0222. Mains 15€–27€. Mon 12:30–3:30pm; Tues–Sun 12:30–3:30pm, 4:30–6:30pm & 7:30–11pm. Tram: 15.

Nune’s Real Marisqueira PORTUGUESE/SEAFOOD One of the best fish restaurants in the city, Nune’s is a welcome escape from the bustle of Belém’s tourist attractions—just follow the tram line out of town. This upscale seafood joint serves up superlative shellfish alongside fresh chargrilled fish plus a number of signature dishes like John Dory filets served with roe or grouper arroz (Portuguese risotto). It’s more expensive than most such places, but the stream of regular local customers know that you pay for quality. There’s meat too, its aged steaks are justly famed.

Rua Bartolomeu Dias 112. www.nunesmarisqueira.pt. 21/301-98-99. Mains 11€–45€. Tues–Sun noon–midnight. Tram: 15.

Rio Maravilha INTERNATIONAL Climb to the top floor of what was an old printworks, to discover this uber-trendy post-industrial space. Expansive views over the river await, as does some of the city’s most interesting food. An innovative blend of Portuguese and Brazilian influences pervades the frequently changing menu. We’ve particularly enjoyed broiled shrimp with pureed manioc or salt cod with caramelized turnips and miso. The atmosphere is relaxed and sharing is encouraged. The bar, with its irreverent polychrome statue reaching out to Cristo Rei across the river, is the coolest place amid all the cool hangouts in LX Factory.

Rua Rodrigues Faria, 103. www.facebook.com/riomaravilha.lxfactory. 96/602-82-29. Mains 14€–25€. Tues–Thurs 12:30pm–2am; Fri–Sat 12:30pm–3am; Sun 12:30–midnight. Tram:15.

Inexpensive

Cantina LX PORTUGUESE A canteen for print workers for generations back in the days when LX Factory was actually a factory rather than Lisbon’s hippest post-industrial shopping, eating, and cultural hub. Cooking is traditional with the occasional twist—try dishes like slow-cooked pork cheek with asparagus “migas” (a bread-based accompaniment), or tuna steak with fennel and spinach. The decor is a homely junkyard jumble of recycled furniture and tools left behind by workers dating back to the 1840s. There’s a cocktail bar and a leafy terrace out back.

R. Rodrigues Faria 103. www.cantinalx.com. 21/362-82-39. Mains 12€–17€. Sun–Mon, Fri noon–11pm; Tues–Thurs, Sat noon–3pm, 7:30–11pm. Tram: 15.

Soajeiro MADEIRAN/PORTUGUESE This hole-in-the-wall does a range of Portuguese standards, but the crowds who pack in every lunchtime are drawn by one dish: espetada. A specialty from the owner’s Madeira island home, it comprises cubes of tender, garlic-infused beef skewered on laurel branches, then grilled over hot coals. Served with red-pepper salad, fries, and (on baking days) garlic-infused bolo do caco (a Madeiran flat-bread). This traditional tasca (tavern) is extremely popular with people working in the neighborhood, so get there early to avoid the lines. For dessert there’s passion-fruit pie, and do try a poncha, the potent island cocktail of rum and lemon juice.

Rua do Merca-Tudo, 16. 21/397-53-16. Mains 8€–11€. Mon–Sat noon–3pm. Tram: 25.

Avenida & North of Center

Expensive

Estórias na Casa da Comida CONTEMPORARY PORTUGUESE Occupying the ground floor of an old townhouse off one of Lisbon’s must atmospheric squares, this joint oozing old-world charm has been a standout on the Lisbon restaurant scene for 40 years. It’s built around a courtyard garden and decorated with ceramics tiles and French Empire furnishings. Chef João Pereira’s creations add a contemporary touch to Portuguese tradition. Dishes vary with the seasons, but regular delicacies include blackbelly rosefish with corn-broth and razor clams, chestnut soup with wild mushrooms and truffle, or peasant stuffed with quince. The cellar contains an excellent selection of wines and the atmosphere is ideal for a romantic tête-à-tête.

Travessa das Amoreiras 1. www.casadacomida.pt. 21/386-08-89. Reservations recommended. Mains 24€–30€; tasting menus 50€–65€; Mon–Sat 7–midnight. Metro: Rato.

Olivier Avenida MEDITERRANEAN Chef Olivier was a pioneer in Lisbon’s food revolution, blending classical French techniques with fresh local produce. His flagship restaurant continues to pull in a glamorous crowd (a former prime minister, several ambassadors, and a scattering of telenovela stars were on show last time we visited). The food is a sophisticated fusion of French, Italian and Portuguese, creating dishes like scallops gratin with truffle and duck magret in port wine.

Rua Júlio César Machado, 7. www.restaurantesolivier.com. 21/317-41-05. Mains 18€–55€. Mon–Fri 12:30–3pm, 7pm–1am; Sat 7pm–1am. Metro: Avenida.

Moderate

Adega da Tia Matilde PORTUGUESE We once overheard a Portuguese father here telling his son, “Food like this will make a man out of you.” Indeed, it’s a great place to sample the savory and hearty specialties of Ribatejo, including cabrito assado (roast mountain kid), arroz de frango (chicken with rice), pato corado com arroz (duck rice), and pungent caldeirada (fish stew). The Portuguese love this large, busy place in the Praça de Espanha area—foreign visitors are rare.

Rua da Beneficência 77. www.adegatiamatilde.com. 21/797-21-72. Main courses 10€–31€. Mon–Fri noon–4pm, 7:30–11pm; Sat noon–4pm. Metro: Praça d’Espanha. Bus: 31.

Comida de Santo PORTUGUESE/BRAZILIAN From your first drop of caipirinha to the last spoonful of papaya puree, this is a tropical taste-bud adventure. One of Lisbon’s oldest Brazilian restaurants, it’s inspired by the cooking of Salvador da Bahia famed for its use of coconut, lime, and delicate spices. Typical dishes include vatapá, made with fish, palm oil, cashew nuts, and dried shrimp; or cured beef with cassava and catupiry cheese.

Calçada Engenheiro Miguel Pais, 39. www.comidadesanto.pt. 21/396-33-39. Mains 12€–18€. Wed–Mon 12:30–3:30pm, 7:30–midnight. Metro: Rato. Bus: 758/730.

Dom Feijão PORTUGUESE This is hallowed ground for lovers of true Portuguese cuisine, so book in advance, because local families often besiege this retro open-plan dining room off the Avenida de Roma shopping street. Like many in this mid-20th-century neighborhood, it’s rooted in the robust cooking of northern Portugal, serving baked turbot or roast young goat. Nobody is quite sure how it got the name, which translates as “Sir Bean.”

Largo Machado de Assis, 7D. www.domfeijao.com. 21/846-40-38. Mains 10€–17€. Mon–Sat noon–3:30pm, 7–10:30pm. Metro: Roma.

O Polícia MEDITERRANEAN Named for the ex-cop who founded it in 1900, this discreet little gem has a decor and menu that seems little changed in decades. The classic Portuguese food is consistently good, but you’re in for a special treat if baked porgy (pargo no forno) is on the specials board. Close to the Gulbenkian Museum, this place is popular for business lunches.

Rua Marquês Sá da Bandeira, 112A. www.restauranteopolicia.com. 21/796-35-05. Mains 12€–17€. Mon–Fri noon–3pm, 7–10pm; Sat noon–3pm. Metro: São Sebastião.

Rabo D’Pexe AZOREAN/JAPANESE Portugal’s mid-Atlantic Azores islands are renowned for wonderful seafood and free-range beef. This place serves it up, flying in 80% of its fish and meat from the archipelago. Fish takes pride of place. You can choose spectacular array of species in the ice tray, then watch them prepare it the open kitchen. As well as traditional Portuguese preparations, there are expert sushi chefs on hand if you want it raw. Dishes are beautifully presented in a light-filled interior.

Avenida Duque de Ávila 42. www.rabodpexe.pt. 21/314-16-05. Mains 12€–25€. Sun–Thurs noon–11:30pm; Fri–Sat noon–midnight. Metro: Saldanha.

Inexpensive

Casa dos Passarinhos TRADITIONAL PORTUGUESE Solid comfort food at affordable prices—that’s the promise of good tascas like this one, and it’s a potent draw. Even more alluring: the idea of cooking for yourself. Bife na pedra (steak on the stone)—it comes raw for you to grill on a hot stone—is very popular here. It’s smoky and smelly but also lots of fun. If you don’t want to work for your supper, the octopus is recommended, as is the tuna steak and Iberian pork (called secretos). Arrive before 1pm or you’ll have to wait, as that’s when local workers arrive for lunch.

Rua Silva Carvalho 195. www.casadospassarinhos.com. 21/388-23-46. Mains: 7.95€–17€. Mon–Sat noon–3pm and 7–10:30pm. Bus: 758.

Jesus é Goês GOAN Culinary exchanges between India and Portugal have been producing delicious results for 500 years. Nowhere more fruitfully than in the state of Goa, a Portuguese outpost until the 1960s. Chef Jesus Lee recreates the tropical charm and tangy flavors of his homeland in the brightly colored shrine to gastronomic intermingling. Try shrimp masala or spiced cilantro chicken. On no account should you miss the date-filled samosas with ginger and cardamom ice-cream.

Rua de São José, 23. 21/154-58-12. Mains 8€–19€. Tues–Fri noon–3pm, 7–11pm; Sat noon–3pm, 7pm–midnight. Metro: Restauradores.

Os Tibetanos VEGETARIAN When it opened in the 1980s, this was the first vegetarian restaurant in Lisbon, and 20 years later, it’s still going strong. The decor and cuisine pay tribute to the people of Tibet, offering several variations on the stuffed Himalayan dumplings known as momos. There is a range of other internationally inspired dishes that change with the seasons, but could include oven-baked tofu steaks with goat’s cheese and pesto, or beetroot pancakes with roasted squash.

Rua do Salitre 117. www.tibetanos.com. 21/314-20-38. Mains 8€–13€. Mon–Fri 12:15–2:45pm, 7:30–10:30pm; Sat 12:45–3:30pm, 8–11pm; Sun 12:45–3:30pm, 7:30–10:30pm. Metro: Restauradores.