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Suggested Portugal Itineraries
Portugal is a relatively compact country, and major road investments over the past few decades mean fast highways have cut driving times even to the most remote regions. Despite its size, there’s a great variety of landscapes, from the rolling plains of the Alentejo to sun-kissed resorts along the coast and the rugged highlands of the north and center, where rough-hewn granite towns rise out of the hillsides.
Whether you race along the autostradas or prefer pottering along country roads or discovering the country by rail, traveling around Portugal can be a delight. Driving from Lisbon, in less than 3 hours you can be bronzing on a beach in the Algarve or sipping port in a riverside bar overlooking Porto.
Yet it would be a mistake to spend your holiday rushing from point to point. Portugal is a land that lends itself to taking things easy. If you’ve got a week, spend time exploring Lisbon, the historic and happening capital that is the heart of the country’s cultural life; take a relaxed ride out to nearby attractions, driving through forested hills or vine- and orchard-covered countryside to view World Heritage Sites within an hour or so of the city; chill on a beach, admire the view from a cliff-top lighthouse, or settle down to a seafood lunch.
If you’ve more time, or are on a return trip, move north to the great city of Porto, or to smaller but culturally rich cities such as Braga or Guimarães, the beautiful wine regions of the Douro and Minho, or the wild landscapes of Peneda-Gerês National Park. Or go south, passing through the Alentejo’s picturesque cities and villages, gastronomic temples, and landscapes redolent of the African savannah before reaching the Algarve’s beaches.
The following itineraries assume that you’ll be traveling by car outside the main cities. You can do most of it by train or bus, but it will take longer to get from place to place. Boa viagem!
Lisbon and Around & Northern Delights
LISbon & Around in 1 Week
This tour will give you time to get an impression of the capital, from its medieval heart to futuristic new riverside districts, plus take in some of the surrounding area, reaching no less than six World Heritage Sites without spending more than an hour per day on the road.
Days 1, 2 & 3: Lisbon
Lisbon is the cultural highlight of Portugal. As the capital and biggest city, it is packed with cultural attractions, great restaurants, and exciting nightlife. It has a fabulous river-mouth location and maintains timeless traditions and a unique maritime heritage while reaching out to the world as a dynamic, cosmopolitan metropolis.
DAY 1
9am: Start by getting your bearings. The best place to do that is from Castelo de São Jorge (St. George’s Castle; p. 98). From the ramparts of this hilltop fortress you get stellar views over the city’s neighborhoods. The castle is the cradle of the city and traces its roots back to Roman, Arab, and Crusader times. Spend an hour up there checking out the view, soaking up the history, and relaxing in the gardens.
10am: Next, head down to the Alfama (p. 118), a casbah-like ancient neighborhood tumbling down to the broad River Tagus. The warren of lanes is imbued with the plaintive sounds of fado music and the whiff of sardines on the grill. Take a couple of hours getting lost here, wandering into baroque churches like the splendid São Vicente de Fora (p. 99), with its panels of azulejo tiles and rooftop views.
Noon: After admiring the view over Alfama’s rooftops from Portas do Sol (p. 101) square, walk downhill following the tram line, pausing for a quick look at the Sé, Lisbon’s fortress-like cathedral (p. 102) built in 1147, before reaching the downtown Baixa (p. 102) district. Rebuilt on a grid pattern after the devastation of a 1755 earthquake, this is the administrative and commercial heart of the city. Opening out onto the river is Praça do Comércio (p. 102), one of Europe’s great city squares, surrounded by grand ministerial buildings linked by a triumphal archway. Running inland is Rua Augusta (p. 122), a pedestrianized shopping street built in the harmonious 18th-century Pombaline style. Pause to take a picture of the Elevador de Santa Justa, a 19th-century iron elevator whisking shoppers uptown. Grab lunch at one of the restaurants popular with locals in the parallel street, Rua dos Correeiros.
2pm: Nearby is the busy Rossio square (p. 122), the hub of the downtown bustle. From there, head uphill again to the Chiado district (p. 102), an uptown, upscale shopping area that’s thrived since the 18th century, with its old-world stores, gilded theaters, and historic cafes, like A Brasileira (p. 106), serving up shots of coffee (or something stronger) to artists and poets since 1905. Walk there up Rua do Carmo and Rua Garrett, which are steep but have some of the best shops.
4pm: Hopefully, you’ll be energized by that shot of coffee, so continue to climb. Head up Rua da Misericórdia to visit the Igreja de São Roque church. Spend an hour inside admiring one the city’s great baroque interiors and the attached museum.
5pm: Just behind the church is the Miradouro de São Pedro de Alcântara, a leafy viewpoint where you have another spectacular view of the city, this time looking across to the castle where you started the day. If you have the energy, walk uphill just a little bit farther to the Jardim do Príncipe Real, a garden surrounded by some of the city’s trendiest boutiques, bars, and restaurants. The Arabesque architecture of the 19th-century Embaixada building may contain Europe’s coolest shopping mall.
7pm: Drag your shopping bags into the Pavilhão Chinês bar for a cocktail among the extraordinary collection of vintage bric-a-brac before dinner.
DAY 2
10am: Start the day at the Museu Nacional de Arte Antiga (p. 111). You should spend a couple of hours here; it houses the country’s best collection of old masters. Take coffee in the riverside garden and cafe.
Noon: Head along the river to the Belém district, a UNESCO World Heritage Site packed with monuments and museums. After lunch at one of the riverside restaurants near the Monument to the Discoveries, stroll along the river to the Torre de Belém. The white tower has guarded the entrance to the city since 1514 and is its most recognizable symbol. Skip the queues lined up to visit the less-than-overwhelming interior.
2pm: Walking past the vast stone buildings of the Belém Cultural Center, head now to the Jerónimos Monastery (p. 108), which dates to the early 1500s and is the most impressive church in the country, containing the tomb of explorer Vasco da Gama.
4pm: Time for refreshments. Next door to the monastery are the scrumptious, custard-filled tarts served at the Pastéis de Belém cafe (p. 106), dating from 1837. You can beat the crowds lining up for takeout by taking yours at a table inside with coffee or tea.
4:30pm: Finish your visit to Belém with a visit to the National Coach Museum (p. 111), featuring one of the world’s greatest collections of Cinderella-style carriages.
DAY 3
10am: Time to get modern. After all that history, the Parque das Nações comes as a shock. Built to house the EXPO ’98 World’s Fair, it’s a showcase of contemporary architecture spectacularly located on the broadest expanse of the River Tagus. The highlight here is the Oceanário (p. 113), arguably the world’s paramount aquarium. A multistoried treasure trove devoted to ocean life; it features creatures from huge sharks circling the main tank to tiny iridescent jellyfish. You’ll need a whole morning to visit the aquarium and to stroll among the modern architecture.
2pm: After lunch, head back into town to the Calouste Gulbenkian Museum (p. 116), an awe-inspiring collection of artwork—from 3,000-year-old Assyrian sculptures to French Impressionist masterpieces—all amassed by an Armenian oil magnate. The museum buildings are integrated into soothing landscaped gardens, and there’s a separate modern art museum.
4pm: Up the hill from the Gulbenkian complex, the top of Parque Eduardo VII provides yet another stunning viewpoint over the city, from which the world’s biggest Portuguese flag is flown. Walk down and you come to Avenida da Liberdade, the city’s swankiest boulevard, over 1km (2⁄3 mile) of leafy walkways, grand buildings, and luxury brands.
Day 4: Sintra
9am: Head out to Sintra (p. 157). Packed with palaces, this little town in the thickly wooded hills west of Lisbon has for centuries been an escape from the summer heat for the capital’s elite.
11am: A hilltop fantasy built in the 19th-century Bavarian mode, Palácio da Pena (p. 162) was the dream of the German husband of Portugal’s Queen Maria II. The views are amazing. Spend a couple of hours visiting the palace and strolling the romantic gardens.
1pm: The whole Sintra area is a World Heritage Site. After lunch in the town, drive west through the lush semitropical vegetation dotted with aristocratic abodes. Pass through the charming little wine village of Colares until you reach Cabo da Roca (p. 163), a blustery promontory that is Europe’s most westerly point.
3pm: If the weather is good, dip down to the beach of Praia da Adraga, enclosed between soaring cliffs, to soak up some rays.
5pm: Return to Sintra via the Parque e Palácio de Monserrate, a fairytale, Arabian-inspired palace surrounded by semitropical parkland that inspired Lord Byron and Hans Christian Andersen. Overnight in Sintra.
Day 5: Mafra , Óbidos , Alcobaça & Nazaré
10am: It’s a 20-minute drive north from Sintra to Mafra (p. 170), home to the vast palace and monastery built by King João V, using riches acquired from an 18th-century Brazilian gold rush. The sheer scale of it is mind-boggling. You’ll need a couple of hours to tour the inside, including the library, which holds 36,000 leather-bound books, some over 500 years old.
Noon: Next stop, Óbidos (p. 193), 40 minutes farther north through the vineyards and apple and pear orchards of Portugal’s far west. Surrounded by high walls, this is one of the country’s best-preserved medieval towns. It’s filled with whitewashed houses, their doors and windows decked out in deep blue and yellow. Take lunch in the town.
3pm: From here, it’s a short hop to the Mosteiro de Alcobaça (p. 196), founded in 1153 by Portugal’s first king, Afonso Henriques, in the unadorned Gothic style newly imported from France. Entering the interior is like stepping into the Middle Ages. The little town of Alcobaça is also renowned for its brightly colored chintz fabrics and the heavenly treats based on centuries-old convent recipes sold by Alcôa pastry shop (p. 202).
6pm: Take an evening stroll around the clifftop heights of Nazaré (p. 205), a picturesque fishing port 20 minutes to the west. Then finish the day with a hearty fish stew before overnighting in Nazaré.
Day 6: Batalha & Tomar
9:30am: It’s a 30-minute drive from Nazaré to the monastery at Batalha (p. 209), the first of two medieval UNESCO World Heritage Sites you’ll visit today. Executed in flamboyant Gothic style, Batalha was built in golden stone as a tribute to a Portuguese victory over invading Spaniards in 1385.
Noon: Another 40 minutes heading inland takes you to the pretty riverside town of Tomar (p. 262). After lunch in one of the restaurants in the pretty downtown, head up to the Convento de Cristo (p. 265), a fascinating complex of buildings dating back to the 12th century. It was once a stronghold of the Knights Templar. The architecture of the round church at the center was inspired by their crusading ventures to Jerusalem. Spend the night in Tomar.
Day 7: Coimbra
9am: Leave early to make the hour-long drive through thick forests of eucalyptus to the romantic city of Coimbra (p. 294), where you’ll spend the day.
10am: You’ll need a couple of hours to visit Portugal’s oldest university, dating back to 1290, including the ceremonial rooms, jail for unruly students, and the magnificent baroque library.
Noon: Wander down the narrow old street of the upper town, taking care descending steep Rua Quebra Costas (backbreaker street), popping in for a look at the Romanesque cathedral. When you reach the busy Baixa commercial district, grab lunch at historic Café de Santa Cruz.
2pm: Move next door to the church bearing the same name as the cafe, then lose yourself in the maze of narrow streets making up the Baixa and enjoy an amble through the romantic gardens beside the River Mondego.
4pm: Uphill again, spend a couple of hours in one of Portugal’s best provincial museums, the Museu Machado de Castro (p. 299). Be sure to explore the remains of the Roman city in the basement.
6pm: Catch an early-evening performance of Coimbra’s own amorous version of fado music at Fado ao Centro, where they’ll explain the music’s significance and serve a glass of port at the end.
The Best of Portugal in 2 Weeks
You can return to Lisbon from Coimbra in a couple of hours but if you have time, head north. A second week will open up the delights of Porto and the Douro wine region.
Days 1–7
Follow the itinerary suggested above.
Days 8 & 9: Porto
Porto (p. 331) is an hour’s drive from Coimbra. Both banks of the River Douro (p. 335) will keep you occupied on the first day.
DAY 8
10am: On the northern bank, the Ribeira district is Porto’s most traditional neighborhood. Behind a row of high-fronted, brightly painted merchants’ houses lining the quayside are a warren of alleys strung with washing, where you’ll stumble on architectural landmarks like the gold-lined São Francisco church (p. 337) and the Bolsa (p. 340), or stock exchange, with its sumptuous Arabian Salon (p. 340). Afterward, grab lunch at one of the cool restaurants in Largo de São Domingos.
2pm: Walk up the pretty Rua das Flores shopping street. At the top, peek at the tiled hall of São Bento railway station, and then continue up the hill to the Sé, Porto’s cathedral, where you’ll want to look in at the richly decorated cloisters and admire the view from the patio out front. Then walk across the upper level of the double-decked Dom Luís I bridge (p. 347), whose mighty ironwork spans the Douro. Now you are in Vila Nova de Gaia (p. 335), home of port wine.
4pm: Take the cable car to the waterfront and admire the barco rabelo boats that once hauled wine barrels, now moored in the Douro. Along the riverfront and rising up the bank are dozens of centuries-old warehouses where ports are blended, then left to age. Most port lodges offer tasting tours. Among the best are the 300-year-old Taylor’s cellars up the hill.
DAY 9
9am: After that wine, it’s time for coffee. The city of Porto has some fabulous old cafes. The most opulent is Café Majestic (p. 343), founded in 1921. After your caffeine shot, wander out onto Rua de Santa Catarina (p. 342), the main shopping street in Porto’s uptown Baixa district (p. 341).
11am: Visit the Bolhão market, a colorful collection of stores selling the city’s favored foodstuffs, which was due to reopen in May 2020 after 2 years of renovation, and the traditional stores in the street around it. Lunch on Porto’s famed francesinha sandwiches in a nearby cafe.
1pm: Continue your uptown tour, admiring Avenida dos Aliados (p. 341), the city’s grandest boulevard, fronted with Belle Epoque buildings leading up to the tower of City Hall, the soaring Clérigos church tower (p. 343), and the intriguing Lello bookstore (p. 341).
2pm: Head to the leafy Boavista district (p. 343) where, among patrician villas, the Serralves (p. 343) cultural complex contains a cutting-edge modern art museum surrounded by parkland.
4pm: If the weather is fine, carry on to the coast to promenade along the oceanfront at Foz (p. 349) or swim on one of the suburb’s sandy beaches.
8pm: Return to Boavista in the evening to catch a concert at the Casa da Música (p. 362).
Day 10: Braga
10am: Make the 40-minute drive out to Portugal’s spiritual capital, Braga (p. 388).
11am: Braga has been a center of Christianity since Roman times and is home to Portugal’s oldest cathedral (p. 392), founded in 1070. After a visit, spend the rest of the morning exploring downtown around Praça da República and Rua do Souto. Be sure to get coffee at an iconic cafe like A Brasileira or Vianna.
2pm: After lunch, head up to the 18th-century church of Bom Jesus do Monte (p. 391) looming over the city at the summit of a 116m (380-ft.) baroque staircase. The sanctuary is surrounded by gardens filled with statues, lakes, and grottoes.
4pm: Back in town, visit the Museu dos Biscainhos museum for a taste of the 18th century. The building has been preserved as a noble home, complete with ornamented ceilings and walls with panels of tiles and paintings. Spend the night in one of Braga’s fine hotels.
Day 11: Ponte de Lima & Peneda-Gerês National Park
9am: Drive northeast through the green, vine-covered slopes of vinho verde wine country.
10am: Pull into the delightful wine town of Ponte de Lima (p. 386), with its medieval bridge arching over the River Lima.
Noon: You reach Portugal’s most spectacular wilderness area, the Peneda-Gerês National Park (p. 396). Spend the rest of the day exploring Portugal’s only national park, 700 sq. km (270 sq. miles) of rugged highland: boulder-strewn plateaus, mountains, forests of oak and pine, and valleys carved by fast-flowing rivers. Wolves, boar, and wild horses roam. The human geography is also fascinating. The area is studded with granite villages, where longhorn cattle, sheep, and goats are raised, and rural life seems little touched by the 21st century. Sinister stone structures, looking like tombs raised on pillars, are everywhere: They are actually grain stores, known as espigueiros. The clusters of them around the villages of Soajo and Lindoso (p. 396) are striking. Fortunately, you can find modern comforts in plenty of fine hotels and inns around the region.
Day 12: Guimarães
10am: Moving south, head to Guimarães (p. 380), another of Portugal’s World Heritage cities. It’s the cradle of the nation, birthplace of the first king, Afonso Henriques, in 1109, and Portugal’s first capital. “Guimarães is Portugal, the rest is just what we conquered,” locals like to say.
11am: The founding father’s hilltop castle still looms over the city, along with a Renaissance-era royal palace (p. 382).
1pm: Head downtown for lunch, then explore the tangle of cobbled lanes and plazas—like Largo da Oliveira and Largo do Tourel—lined with centuries-old granite homes, often painted in bright tones, sporting wrought-iron balconies or glass-fronted verandas.
3pm: The arts scene got a boost when the city was made European Cultural Capital in 2012, and it remains vibrant, so try to catch the latest contemporary art show at Centro Cultural Vila Flor.
4pm: Guimarães is a center for Portugal’s fashionable footwear industry, so leave some time to pick up a bargain in one of the city’s outlets.
Days 13 & 14: The Douro Wine Region
For the final 2 days in the north, you’ll be in the Douro wine region (p. 372), another UNESCO World Heritage Site.
DAY 13
9am: Drive south from Guimarães, stopping in the lovely riverside town of Amarante (p. 365) to check out the Renaissance church of São Gonçalo.
Noon: Continue the precipitous decline to the big river. At Mesão Frio you’ll see the Douro winding its way through a distinctive landscape of terraced hills covered with grapevines. Follow the winding riverbank until Peso da Régua (p. 376), where you can have lunch and discover the secrets of winemaking at the Museu do Douro museum (p. 376).
3pm: Cross the bridge to the south bank and visit the town of Lamego (p. 369), with its remarkable mountaintop church, before overnighting in one of the wine estates or wine-themed hotels, where you can sample the nectars without having to worry about driving.
DAY 14
9am: Hopefully your head is clear in the morning, because you will start with a twisting drive along the N-222 (p. 371) riverside road, which has been called the world’s most scenic route. There are also plenty of wineries to visit along the way.
Noon: Make a short detour to visit the charming wine village of Pinhão (p. 370) before rejoining the N-222 as it climbs through the heart of the wine region—stopping to enjoy tastings at the estates you pass.
3pm: Vila Nova de Foz Côa is the last UNESCO site on the tour, with its prehistoric rock carvings (p. 377) that date back more than 20,000 years. This is a chance to get up close and personal with some of humanity’s earliest art, both at the riverside sites and in the excellent museum that’s an architectural landmark in its own right.
SouthErn Portugal for 2 Weeks
An alternative to heading north out of Lisbon would be to discover the attractions of mainland Portugal’s two southernmost regions, the Alentejo and the Algarve. They are very different. The Alentejo, taking up a third of the country, is mostly rolling farmland broken up by occasional hill ranges. Amid vineyards, olive groves, and forests of cork oak are some of the country’s best-preserved historic towns and villages, painted white to reflect the sun which pushes summer temperatures over 40°C (100°F). The Algarve is separated from the rest of the country by a range of scrub-covered hills running east-west. It enjoys a Mediterranean-style climate where almond and citrus trees thrive. The beaches on the sheltered southern coast are among Portugal’s biggest draws for visitors.
On this tour by car, we’re assuming you’ll want to spend some time chilling on those beaches, so we’ve have spaced out the sightseeing accordingly.
Days 1, 2 & 3
Follow the Lisbon schedule at the start of “Lisbon & Around in 1 Week,” above.
Days 4 & 5: Comporta & Alcácer do Sal
Heading south out of Lisbon, you cross the red-painted Ponte 25 de Abril suspension bridge high above the River Tagus toward the outstretched arms of the Cristo Rei statue (p. 188) on the south bank. It’s less than an hour to the handsome town of Alcácer do Sal on the banks of the River Sado. Whitewashed Alcácer is an ancient center for rice production. It’s surmounted by a convent wrapped in a castle that’s now a luxurious hotel overlooking the rice fields. Spend a couple of hours there before joining the sun-worshipers on the fine sandy beaches 30 minutes farther west. The beaches curve south for almost 60km (40 miles) from the headland of Tróia to the fishing port of Sines. The village of Comporta and its beaches have become the “in” place for Lisbonites (and international celebrities) to escape for the weekend. If you have the cash, bed down at rustic-chic Sublime Comporta resort.
Days 6, 7 & 8: Lagos & the Western Algarve
To get to the Algarve, it will take you 2 hours down the A2 toll highway. Head to Lagos (p. 249), the best town in the western Algarve, which you’ll make your base for the next 3 nights.
Day 6: Explore the town that was the center for Portugal’s 15th-century voyages of discovery. The old town lies within the walls that once protected it from pirates. It retains its charm, although Lagos’ popularity with a youthful surfer crowd means it’s hopping on summer nights. Lagos is surrounded by beaches, quiet coves among honey-colored cliffs, curving dune-backed strands, and deep blue lagoons.
Day 7: Drive out to the headland fortress of Sagres (p. 255), Europe’s southwestern tip, where Prince Henry the Navigator established his headquarters for launching the Discoveries. It is a wild atmospheric space. Try to be there for the spectacular sunsets. North of Sagres are some of Europe’s best surf beaches.
Day 8: Drive inland through orange groves to spend the morning in the former Moorish capital of Silves (p. 241) with its mighty medieval fortress. After lunch, head south to the coast. In the tiny cove of Benagil you can pick up a skiff that will take you to amazing sea caves carved into the sandstone and the beach at Praia da Marinha, arguably the most beautiful in Portugal.
Days 9 & 10: Tavira & the Eastern Algarve
Slow down and relax. The eastern Algarve, close to the border with Spain’s Andalusia region, is known as the Sotavento, meaning “sheltered from the wind”—in contrast to the breezy west. Beaches here, many of them on long, sandbar islands, are tranquil and have warmer water. Tavira (p. 227) is a sweet town, with manor houses lining the banks of the Gilão River and streets filled with restaurants and cafes. There are plenty of good places to stay here and excellent beaches to explore. Be sure to take a boat tour in the marshy Ria Formosa reserve, a magnate for birdwatchers.
Day 11: Mértola
Before leaving the Algarve coast, look in on Vila Real de Santo António (p. 232), a border town built after the 1755 earthquake, which is a rare example of 18th-century town planning. Then head north following the River Guadiana for about an hour to Mértola (p. 290), one of Portugal’s most beautiful villages. Strung out on the crest of a ridge, its white houses and crenellated battlements are perfectly reflected in the river’s still blue waters. This was once the capital of an Arab emirate and a busy medieval trading hub. Its parish church is one of the few in Portugal that still clearly shows the signs that it was once a mosque.
South for 2 Weeks of Culture & the Coast
Days 12 & 13: Évora
It’s a 2-hour drive north to Évora, the majestic capital of the Alentejo, a UNESCO World Heritage city. Take the slow road, winding your way through picturesque villages like Serpa, Moura, and Monsaraz, which occupies a spectacular location overlooking the Alqueva reservoir, Western Europe’s largest man-made lake.
Arriving in Évora in the late afternoon, spend your time moseying around its white-painted heart, admiring the medieval fortifications and 16th-century aqueduct before preparing to feast on Alentejo food in one of the city’s excellent restaurants.
Next day, start out in the main square, the Praça do Giraldo, once a scene of executions and the horrors of the Inquisition, now an elegant focal point for city life and serious coffee drinking. Spend the rest of the morning visiting the 12th-century cathedral—being sure to admire the views from the roof—and the Temple of Diana, whose columns form one of the best-preserved Roman ruins in the Iberian Peninsula.
In the afternoon, visit the Igreja de São Francisco, which, besides being an impressive example of Portugal’s “maritime discoveries–inspired” Manueline architecture, is best known for a chapel with walls made from human skulls and other bones.
Day 14: Elvas & Marvão
For the final day, visit two very different frontier fortress towns. First Elvas, whose defenses, built during Portugal’s war of independence from Spain in the 1640s, are the biggest of their type in the world. A giant complex of overlapping walls and ditches encircles the ancient city on the old road leading to Lisbon from Madrid. It’s also a World Heritage Site.
Just over an hour to the north, Marvão perches on a spur of rock surging 860 meters (2,800 ft.) above the plain. It was fought over since ancient times due to its commanding position over the lands below. Inside its stone walls, the town of red-tiled, white-walled houses seems to grow out of the rocks. There’s a peaceful atmosphere now, but it’s easy to imagine as a battlefield between Celts and Romans, Christians and Moors, and Spanish invaders versus the British redcoats helping defend Portugal in the 1760s.
Lisbon with Kids
A week In Lisbon with Kids
Day 1
Lisbon is pretty much unique among European capitals in having summer-
long sunshine, plus suburbs featuring broad sandy beaches and regular Atlantic rollers ideal for surfing. So rather than drag the kids around museums, get them enrolled in one of the city’s many surf schools. That way they spend the mornings having fun in the waves, you get to do cultural stuff undisturbed by the complaints of bored juniors, and you can all spend some quality time together in the afternoons.
Carcavelos Beach, just a 20-minute train ride from downtown, is ideal for beginners, but there are beaches within a short drive from Lisbon to suit all standards.
In the afternoon, it’s time to discover what lies beneath the waves. The Oceanário (p. 113) is a delight for all ages, but children will marvel at its range of sea life. The aquarium also organizes special events such as concerts for young children, or sleepovers where kids (and parents) can spend the night next to the shark tank. You’ll need at least a couple of hours to explore the Oceanário.
Day 2
After the morning at surf school, spend the afternoon on dry land. Take the kids to Castelo de São Jorge (St. George’s Castle; p. 98) so they can admire the view, roam the ramparts, and imagine the days of the Romans, Moors, and Crusaders who lived and battled there. Then head down the castle hill and up the next slope to the Graça neighborhood to catch Tram 28 (p. 105), the most iconic line of Lisbon’s vintage yellow streetcars (eléctricos). It will likely be crowded with tourists, but the eléctrico remains a fun way to see the city as it rattles down the narrow lanes of the Alfama neighborhood, scoots through Baixa’s streets, passes the posh shops of Chiado, and finally ends at the Cemitério dos Prazeres, Lisbon’s largest cemetery. Few tourists venture here, but the 19th-century necropolis, with its massive family tombs, makes for an intriguingly spooky visit. Don’t miss the pyramid built by Dom Pedro de Sousa Holstein, Duke de Palmela, believed to be Europe’s biggest private mausoleum.
Day 3
In the afternoon head for the zoo. The Jardim Zoológico de Lisboa (p. 117) has been around for 132 years and contains over 2,000 animals from 300 different species. At least one you’re unlikely to see anywhere else—the Iberian lynx—is the world’s rarest cat, struggling to survive with the help of a conservation program in the wild lands of southern Spain and southeastern Portugal. The zoo is a much-loved attraction for Portuguese schoolchildren who come to see the rare red pandas or the “enchanted woods,” where exotic birds fly in the open air.
Day 4
Take the train out to Sintra (p. 157). High up in the hills to the west of Lisbon, this was the summer retreat for the royal family and their aristocratic entourage. Among the thickly forested hills are fairytale palaces and secret gardens to explore. Make like 18th-century nobles and hire a horse-drawn carriage to take you through the forests to the gates of the phantasmagorical Palácio da Pena (p. 162).
Day 5
Sport Lisboa e Benfica, better known simply as Benfica, is one of the world’s great soccer clubs, twice European champions. In fact, it’s believed to be the world’s biggest club in terms of membership, with almost 160,000 paid-up fans. Catching a home game can be a tremendous experience, especially if they are playing against cross-town rivals Sporting or northern upstarts FC Porto. If you can’t get to a match, you can still tour the Estádio da Luz stadium and visit its state-of-the-art museum dedicated to the club’s 112-year history, in which its greatest player, Eusébio (1942–2014), plays a starring role.
Next door to the stadium is one of Europe’s largest shopping malls, the Centro Colombo, offering 119,725 square meters (1.3 million sq. ft.) of retail therapy. There are 340 stores, 60 restaurants, nine movie screens, and a bowling alley. It’s all vaguely themed around the Portuguese Era of Discoveries.
Day 6
Lisbon’s coach museum, the Museu Nacional dos Coches (p. 111), has one of the world’s greatest collections of historical carriages. It is Portugal’s most visited museum and contains Cinderella-style carriages dating back to the 16th century. The oldest was used to bring King Filipe II from Madrid to Lisbon during the Spanish occupation, and the most exuberant is a gold-covered vehicle given as a gift to the Pope from a Portuguese king in 1715. It’s housed in a new building that opened in 2015 in Lisbon’s riverside Belém district.
Nearby in the Picadeiro Henrique Calado you can watch some 18th-century-style horsemanship. This arena is where the Portuguese School of Equestrian Arts holds its daily training and weekly performances, with horses and riders clad in period costumes to conjure up the displays they once put on to entertain the royal family. The Lusitano horses used in the performances are a unique Portuguese breed.
Day 7
Head back out to the riverside Parque das Nações district packed with modern architecture. Apart from the Oceanário (p. 113), kids will love the Pavilion of Knowledge–Ciência Viva, an interactive science museum, where they can engage in an array of experiments, including riding a bike on a tight rope. It’s loads of fun. After that, take a ride in the cable cars that run high above the riverbank, giving a splendid view over Europe’s longest bridge. Be warned: The area also contains another big shopping mall.
