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6

Exploring Lisbon

Lisbon’s historic center is compact. Most attractions can be reached by foot or by hopping onto the historic streetcars, elevators, and funiculars. Safe and mostly efficient public transport and relatively cheap taxis will get you to farther-flung attractions like historic Belém, modernist Parque das Nações, or the Gulbenkian museum. To really see the city, allow at least 3 days, more if you make side trips to Sintra and Cascais (see chapter 7).

Suggested Itineraries

For more extended itineraries, not only of Lisbon, but Portugal itself, refer to chapter 4.

If You Have 1 Day

Take a stroll through Alfama, Lisbon’s most evocative bairro (neighborhood). Visit the 12th-century Sé (cathedral) and take in a view of the city and the River Tagus from the Miradouro Santa Luzia belvedere. Climb to the Castelo de São Jorge. Then, head out to Belém to visit the Mosteiro dos Jerónimos, stroll along the river to Torre de Belém, and take in the modern art at the Berardo Collection Museum. Be sure to try a pastel de Belém (custard tart) in the historic cafe of the same name.

If You Have 2 Days

On Day 2, start by checking out the food on show at Mercado da Ribeira, then stroll along the waterfront to Praça do Comercio to begin a walking tour through Baixa and Chiado to peruse the historic shopping streets. Stop for a shot of coffee at Café A Brasileira before walking up to the ruined Convento do Carmo and gold-lined São Roque church, and take in the view at Miradouro São Pedro de Alcântara. After lunch in the hip Príncipe Real neighborhood, cram in some culture at the Gulbenkian Museum and relax in its delightful gardens. In the evening, go full circle to enjoy the gourmet experience at Time Out Market and some Cais do Sodré nightlife.

If You Have 3 Days

Head east to spend the morning by the river at Parque das Nações to admire the modern architecture and visit the Oceanário, an awe-inspiring aquarium. Enjoy fish in a different way over lunch at Senhor Peixe before crossing town to admire the magnificent old masters at the Museu Nacional de Arte Antiga. Wrap up the afternoon with a visit to the hip LX Factory area of stores, cafes, and bars, and a wander along the Tagus for more cutting-edge design at the MAAT contemporary art museum.

Castelo & Alfama

Let’s start in the cradle of Lisbon, its ancient hilltop fortress and the emblematic hillside quarter where a warren of lanes connects Renaissance palaces, baroque churches, and taverns emitting the scent of barbecued sardines and the plaintive melodies of fado.

Castelo de São Jorge CASTLE This is the best place to get your bearings on a first visit to Lisbon. From its hilltop perch, virtually the whole city is laid out before you, from the medieval alleyways beneath the ramparts to the 18th-century blocks of the Baixa and gleaming modern towers in the distance.

Nowadays the castle is a peaceful green oasis. Come in the early morning or evening when there are fewer visitors and it’s more like a tranquil garden than a fortress. There are pathways shaded by venerable olive, pine, and cork trees, peacocks hopping among the ruins. The setting sun adds another dimension to the extraordinary views over the city and the shimmering waters of the Tagus. It wasn’t always so serene. Standing on the ramparts, it’s not hard to imagine the mayhem in 1147, when the troops of Portugal’s first king Afonso Henriques joined forces with northern European crusaders to successfully lay siege to the castle and end over 4 centuries of Muslim rule. When Lisbon replaced Coimbra as Portugal’s capital in 1255, the castle became a royal palace, and many of the walls you see today date from that period. Later it served as a military base and a prison.

Within the walls there’s an archeological site where secrets of past centuries are still being unearthed; a neat little museum showing the history of the castle through Roman coins, Iron Age pottery, and Moorish ceramics; and an odd camera obscura in one of the towers, which uses a lens and looking glasses to zoom in on city landmarks. Kids will enjoy the regular weekend re-enactments of battles and medieval pageantry, not to mention the after-dark tours to observe the castle’s abundant bat population. There’s a good restaurant: the Casa do Leão (mains 18€–31€), located in the remnants of the old royal palace, plus a range of snack options inside the castle, although their opening hours can be a little unpredictable. With over 2 million visitors in 2018, the castle was Portugal’s most visited national monument, so buying tickets in advance via the website is advised to avoid lines at the entrance in peak times. Guided tours run up to nine times a day.

Rua de Santa Cruz do Castelo. www.castelodesaojorge.pt. 21/880-06-20. 10€ adults; 5€ youngsters 13–25; 8.50€ over 65s; free for children under 13. Mar–Oct daily 9am–8:30pm; Nov–Feb daily 9am–5:30pm. Bus: 737. Tram: 12, 28.

Fundação Ricardo do Espírito Santo Silva MUSEUM If you can tear yourself away from the views at the Portas do Sol miradouro, the crimson-painted palace across the road has something rather special. Behind the baroque facade, the perfectly preserved interior of the Palácio Azurara houses an array of furniture, textiles, tiles, porcelain, and glassware that offers a fascinating insight into 18th-century aristocratic life. Even more fascinating are the workshops where craftsmen and women preserve centuries of knowhow in silver plating, leather book binding, cabinetmaking, and 15 other decorative arts. The collection and the workshops are run by a foundation set up by banker Ricardo Espírito Santo Silva (1900–1955) with the aim of keeping traditional crafts alive. You can book tours of the ateliers to watch the artisans in action, purchase their work, including reproductions of the museum exhibits, even take a lesson in one of the crafts (5€ a lesson, booking required). In 2019, the foundation opened the Manufactum, a store in Chiado (Rua do Alecrim 79) retailing contemporary pieces made by its craftspeople.

Largo das Portas do Sol 2. www.fress.pt. 21/881-46-00. 4€ adults, 2€ students under 25; free for children under 12. Guided visits 8€; workshops 10€. Both need to be booked in advance. Wed–Mon 10am–5pm. Tram: 12, 28. Bus: 737.

Igreja da São Vicente de Fora CHURCH Portugal’s first king, Afonso I Henriques, raised a first church here on the site of his camp during his successful siege of Arab-held Lisbon; the tombs of a couple of Teutonic knights who helped can be seen inside. Construction of the current grand late-Renaissance building begun in 1583, during Portugal’s 6-decade Spanish occupation, the involvement of Spanish and Italian architects reflected in the style.

Ironically, it holds the tombs of the Braganza royal family, who kicked the Spanish out and ruled from 1627 to 1910. Fourteen monarchs are buried there, together with their consorts and children. When you visit the somber pantheon , look for the eerie weeping statue over the caskets of King Carlos I and Crown Prince Luís Felipe, assassinated at Praça do Comércio in 1908.

The monastery-church takes its name from St. Vincent, one of Lisbon’s patrons, and from the fact that it was outside (fora) the city walls. Its white limestone facade dominates Alfama’s skyline. There are great views from the rooftop . The interior is filled with baroque paintings and sculptures, and there’s a magnificent marble-clad sacristy and an intricate altarpiece by sculptor Joaquim Machado de Castro. The greatest treasure, however, are the around 100,000 blue-and-white tiles (azulejos) painted with historical scenes and illustrations of the fables published in the 1600s by French writer Jean de La Fontaine, full of crafty foxes, rapacious magpies, and greedy bears. The tiles form one of the best examples of this particularly Portuguese artform. Guided tours can be booked via the “Património” section of the website.

Largo de São Vicente. www.patriarcado-lisboa.pt. 21/888-56-52. 5€ adults; 2.50€ youngsters 12–21 and over 65s; free for under 12s. Tues–Sun 10am–5pm; Sun 9am–12:30pm and 3–5pm. Tram: 28. Bus: 712 or 728.

Igreja e Museu de Santo António CHURCH The rest of the Christian world may know him as St. Anthony of Padua, after the Italian city where he died; Lisboetas venerate the saintly friar as one of their own. His festival day on June 13 is the city’s biggest party. Anthony is believed to have been born in 1195 where this pretty baroque church now stands next to Lisbon Cathedral (p. 102). The museum recounts the story of his life and holds relics of the saint. The saint’s reputed talents as a matchmaker mean he is especially revered by young couples, and mass weddings are held in the cathedral on the eve of his saint’s day.

Largo de Santo António da Sé. www.museudelisboa.pt. 21/581-85-30. Museum admission 3€; 1.50€ over 65s; free for students, under 12s and all Sun before 2pm. Church: Mon–Fri 8am–7pm, Sun–Sat 8am–8pm. Museum Tues–Sun 10am–5:30pm. Tram: 12, 28; Bus: 714, 732, 736, 737, 760.

Museu do Aljube Resistência e Liberdade MUSEUM This grim building was a prison dating back to the Middle Ages—its name comes from the Arabic for pit. From 1928 to 1965, the Salazar dictatorship detained and tortured political prisoners here. It’s now a moving museum of “Resistance and Freedom” showing the history of the dictatorship, the suffering of prisoners held, and the underground resistance movement that eventually triumphed in the democratic revolution of 1974.

Rua de Augusto Rosa, 42. www.museudoaljube.pt. 21-581-8535. Admission 3€; 2.60€ over 65s; 1.50€ youngsters 13–25; free under 12s. Tues–Sun 10am–6pm. Tram 12, 28; Bus 737.

Museu do Fado MUSEUM The museum dedicated to Lisbon’s favorite musical genre (p. 34) is a short walk from Rua dos Remédios, one of Alfama’s most typical streets, lined with cute stores and some well-known fado bars. The museum is situated in a former water-pumping station close to the river. With visual displays and a great soundtrack, it tells how the music evolved from the melody of dockside mean streets to a UNESCO World Heritage treasure. Galleries feature interactive presentations, old guitars, theater bills and artworks, including national treasure José Malhoa’s 1910 portrait of bohemian tavern life O Fado . Check the website for the program of live performances organized in the museum and venues around the city. There’s a well-stocked shop with CDs and a good cafe/restaurant.

Largo do Chafariz de Dentro, 1. www.museudofado.pt. 21/882-3470. Admission 5€; 2.50€ youngsters from 12 to 25; 4.30€ over 65s; free for under 12s. Tues–Sun 10am–5:30pm. Tram: 28; Bus: 728, 735, 759, 794.

The best Views

Lisbon’s hilly waterside topography offers many opportunities for fabulous panoramas. Each miradouro (belvedere) provides a different angle over the city and the Tagus; many have alfresco cafes. Here are five of our favorites:

Miradouro das Portas do Sol Alfama is spread before you in one of the most photogenic views of Lisbon, featuring russet rooftops, church towers and domes, and conveniently placed palm trees against the river’s blue backdrop. Adding to the charm, little yellow street cars rattle by every few minutes. It’s wonderful at sunrise, but at all times watch out for pickpockets. Tram: 12, 28.

Miradouro de Santa Catarina This one looks directly down to the river, and sunsets are spectacular. There are lawns and a couple of cafes. It’s a popular spot for young people, who gather in the evenings to drink beer and listen to street musicians. It’s looked over by the brooding statue of Adamastor, a mythical giant who haunts the Cape of Good Hope in the epic poem Os Lusíadas. Nearby is the picturesque Bica neighborhood with its famed funicular. Largo Santa Luzia. Tram 28; Bus 734.

Miradouro de Santa Luzia Wander down through the charming lanes of the Castelo neighborhood to discover this viewpoint suspended over the river. It’s shaded by purple bougainvillea and surrounded by azulejos. Below are the red rooftops of Alfama. The panoramic viewpoint is backed by a pretty little church belonging to the knightly Order of Malta. Hidden behind it is a staircase leading to a little terrace bar with its own unique vista. Largo Santa Luzia. Tram 28; Bus 734.

Miradouro de São Pedro de Alcântara Just beside the Bairro Alto, this broad belvedere has a leafy garden and views across to Castelo de São Jorge, Graça, and the hill of Santana. Across the road is a convent interior beautifully decorated with azulejos. Rua São Pedro de Alcântara. Tram 24; Bus 758.

Miradouro de Sophia de Mello Breyner Andresen Atop the hill of Graça, the pine-shaded spot lays the city at your feet, from the gardens of Castelo São Jorge to the distant river and a tangle of narrow lanes in medieval Mouraria district just below. Commonly known as Miradouro da Graça after the handsome baroque church behind, it was named after poet Sophia de Mello Breyner Andresen (1919–2004). Try a sundowner from the little kiosk cafe. Calçada da Graça. Tram 28; Bus 734.

Panteão Nacional CHURCH The National Pantheon is the final resting place of many of Portugal’s great and good. Aside from the presidents and poets buried here, you can visit the tombs of fado legend Amália Rodrigues (1920–1999), soccer great Eusébio (1942–2014) and Gen. Humberto Delgado, an opposition hero murdered by the dictatorship’s secret police in 1966. That was the year this white-domed church—also known as Igreja de Santa Engrácia—was finished, almost 300 years after work began. Portuguese still refer to never-ending tasks as obras (works) de Santa Engrácia. Richly decorated in multicolored marble, the interior also has monuments to (but not the remains of) Discoveries-era heroes, including Henry the Navigator and Vasco da Gama. There are spectacular views from the roof. If you come on a Tuesday or Saturday, combine a visit here with shopping at the Feira da Ladra (p. 127) flea market next door.

Largo de Santa Clara. 21/885-48-20. Admission 3€ adults, 1.50€ ages 15–25, free for children under 14; free for all Sun after 2pm. Tues–Sun 10am–5pm; closed holidays. Tram: 28.

Sé de Lisboa CHURCH Chances are you’ll do a double take on first sight of Lisbon’s medieval cathedral. It looks more like a fortress than a place of worship. Lisbon’s new Christian rulers built the church on the site of a mosque (itself constructed over an ancient Visigothic church) after taking the city in 1147 but made sure it could serve as defendable sanctuary in case of a Muslim counterattack. An English crusader-turned-bishop named Gilbert of Hastings was put in charge of the works.

Although damaged by the 1755 earthquake, the Sé remains an impressive example of Romanesque architecture with a barrel-vaulted ceiling and arched upper-level gallery. Graceful Gothic additions were made in later centuries. Most notable are the airy cloisters , but restoration work and archeological excavations means they are closed until at least 2020.

Among the treasures inside are the font where St. Anthony is said to have been christened in 1195; the 14th-century Gothic chapel of Bartolomeu Joanes , a wealthy merchant; and 14th-century sarcophaguses holding the remains of nobleman Lopo Fernandes Pacheco and his book-reading wife Maria Villalobos. There are frequent performances of Portuguese classical guitar music in the sacristy.

Largo da Sé. 21/886-67-52. Free admission Mon-Sat 9am–7pm, Sun 9am–8pm. Tram: 12, 28. Bus: 737.

Baixa & Chiado

The Baixa is the commercial heart of old Lisbon, its handsome plazas connected by a grid of streets lined by solid five-story building erected after the 1755 earthquake. Climbing up the hill to the west, Chiado’s elegant shops, theaters, and cafes recall the days of 19th-century artists and poets, while neighboring Bairro Alto and Príncipe Real are today’s hip nightlife and shopping hubs.

Convento do Carmo & Museu Arqueológico MUSEUM No other Lisbon museum conveys so well the sensation that you’ve wandered into a living relic to become a witness to history. You enter into the ruined nave of a Gothic church, originally built in 1389, that has stood in a state of partial collapse since the earthquake of 1755, when many parishioners died inside.

In a stark monument to nature’s destructive power, the pointed Gothic arches point skyward like the ribs of a skeletal whale. The church was the center of a convent that was built in the 14th century by Nuno Álvares Pereira, the kingdom’s richest nobleman and a military hero for defeating Spanish invaders at the battle of Aljubarrota (p. 18). When construction was completed, Álvares Pereira gave away his wealth and lived there as a humble monk. Pope Benedict made him a saint in 2009.

The magnificent church tumbled like most of Lisbon in 1755, and its soaring nave was left as a memorial to quake victims. Surviving structures at the back rooms contain the Archeological Museum , whose exhibits include 6th-century Jewish gravestones, an Egyptian sarcophagus, and a pair of spooky Peruvian mommies.

In summer, concerts, plays, and open-air movie screenings are held in the ruins, which are even more evocative in the evening light. The entrance is on one of the Chiado’s prettiest squares. Next door, guarded by soldiers in plumed helmets, is the headquarters of the National Republican Guard (GNR) where the remnants of Portugal’s 46-year dictatorship surrendered to revolutionary forces in 1974.

Largo do Carmo. www.museuarqueologicodocarmo.pt. 21/346-04-73. Admission 5€, 4€ students and seniors; free under 14s. May–Sep Mon–Sat 10am–7pm; Oct–Apr Mon–Sat 10am–6pm. Metro: Baixa-Chiado. Tram: 28. Bus: 758.

Chiado & Bairro Alto

Igreja de São Domingos CHURCH This church was never fully repaired after a devastating fire in 1957. Scorched walls and soot-blacked columns stand where once were baroque paintings and gilded carvings. Its eerie atmosphere is accentuated by a dark history.

In Easter 1506, an argument broke out in the church between a Jewish man who had recently converted to Christianity and other worshipers in what was then one of the biggest churches in Lisbon. The dispute sparked a pogrom against Lisbon’s Jewish community. Before King Manuel sent the royal guard to quell the violence, an estimated 2,000 Jews were murdered.

More horrors were to come. Manuel’s successor João III invited the Holy Inquisition to Portugal. This became the inquisitors’ church. Hundreds of suspected heretics were burned at the stake over the next 250 years, many in the square facing the church. Most victims were “New Christians”—Jews who converted to avoid being exiled from the country.

In 1987, President Mário Soares asked the Jewish community for forgiveness and in the 2000s, a memorial was placed in front of the church and a ceremony declared Lisbon a “City of Tolerance” open to all races and religions.

Largo de São Domingos. 21/342-82-75. Free. Daily 7:30am–7pm. Metro: Rossio. Bus: 711, 732, 736, 746, 759, 783.

Igreja e Museu de São Roque CHURCH From the plain white facade it’s hard to guess at the treasures within. The interior is a masterpiece, combining artforms that Portugal made its own: azulejo tiles and talha dourada (gold-covered wood carving). Both reached their peak when a gold rush in Portugal’s Brazilian colonies made King João V one of the richest monarchs in 18th-century Europe.

The church is lined with side chapels gleaming with gold, but its crowning glory is the Chapel of St. John which the king ordered from Rome and shipped here at enormous cost. It is a rococo fantasy in lapis lazuli, agate, alabaster, Carrara marble, gold, ivory, and more. Look up too at the 16th-century painted ceiling , the only one of its kind in Portugal, and the sacristy lined with baroque paintings.

The church was a headquarters of the Jesuits, the wealth and power of which led the Marquis of Pombal to kick them out of the country in the 1750s because of a perceived threat to Portugal’s secular rulers. A museum adjacent to the church tells the order’s story and includes a notable collection of religious art. Don’t miss the ivory sculpture of the Crucifixion, a fine example of the 17th-century East-West crossover art produced in Portugal’s Indian colonies.

Largo Trindade Coelho. www.museu-saoroque.com. 21/323-50-65. Museum 2.50€; free for over 65s, under 14s, students, and all on Sun before 2pm. Oct–Mar: Mon 2–5:30pm, Tues–Sun 10am–5:30pm; Apr–Sept: Mon 2–6:30pm, Tues–Wed and Fri–Sun 10am–6:30pm, Thurs 10am–7:30pm. Tram: 24. Bus: 758.

Trams, elevators & funiculars

Lisbon provides some vintage transport solutions to help footsore travelers (and locals) overcome its hilly terrain. Its trams, elevators, and funiculars date back to the turn of the 20th century. They’re run by the Carris public transport company and can be accessed with the Viva transport card (p. 73).

Elevador de Santa Justa Inaugurated in 1902, this imposing iron structure towers over the Baixa and continues to haul pedestrians up the Largo do Carmo in the Chiado. Contrary to local lore, Gustave Eiffel had no role in its construction, although the ornate 45m (148-ft.) structure definitely shares style-points with his Parisian tower. Be prepared to queue, but there are great views from the top. Runs daily 7am to 9pm in winter and until 11pm summertime.

Tram 28 The little yellow street cars that rattle around the city are one of Lisbon’s most recognizable symbols. Many of the trams (eléctricos) date back to 1901 when the network was first installed. Running through Alfama, Baixa, Chiado, and other historic districts, line 28 is a travelers’ must-do. It’s always crowded, and you should watch out for pickpockets on board. Runs weekdays from around 6:30am to 11pm, starting a bit later on Saturdays and staying in the shed on Sunday. Other trolley lines include No. 15 along the river to Belém and No. 24 heading from Chiado through Príncipe Real and Amoreiras.

Ascensor da Bica The most photogenic of three 19th-century funicular rail cars running up Lisbon’s hills, this one was installed in 1892 and takes about 5 minutes to lug passengers from Rua de São Paulo, just behind Ribeira market, through the picturesque Bica neighborhood to Bairro Alto (Mon–Sat 7am–9pm; Sun 9am–9pm). The other yellow-painted ascensors are Glória running from the start of Avenida da Liberdade to Bairro Alto; and Lavra from just off Avenida da Liberdade (next to the excellent Solar dos Presuntos restaurant) to the charming, but little-visited Santana district.

Mercado da Ribeira/Time Out Market MARKET Lisbon’s main food market was built in the 1880s and topped with a distinctive white onion-dome. The traditional side has morning displays of flowers and rows of stalls loaded with seasonal produce (strawberries in April, peaches in July, etc.). Side aisles have butchers’ counters gleaming with steaks and offal and fishmongers offering everything from baby squid to swordfish the size of small submarines. Supermarkets and gentrification have robbed the market of some of its bygone bustle, but it remains a window into the soul of the city. Avoid Mondays, when there is no fish catch and many stalls are closed. On the western side of the market hall, a gourmet food court launched by Time Out magazine has become one of Lisbon’s most-visited attractions. Diners can choose from around 40 restaurants, bars, and stores. Their offerings range from intricate dishes fashioned by Michelin-starred chefs, to sushi, pizza, and Portuguese nibbles like deep-fried cod cakes. There are stores to buy wine, cheese, or chocolate, plus cooking workshops and music into the small hours.

Avenida 24 de Julho. www.timeoutmarket.com. 21/395-1274. Traditional market: Mon–Sat 6am–2pm. Time Out Market: Sun–Wed 10am–midnight; Thurs–Sat 10am–2am. Metro: Cais do Sodré. Tram: 15, 25. Bus: 706, 720, 728, 732, 738, 760.

Five historic Cafes

Cafes are an essential part of Lisbon life. Traditionally they are also pastelarias (pastry shops) meaning you can always get freshly baked cakes to go with your bica (espresso). Unfortunately, many neighborhood cafes are closing, often to be replaced by bland imitations of international hipster joints. Thankfully this historic quintet is looking good for a few more years:

A Brasileira Lisbon’s most-famous cafe opened in 1905 and got its name from the coffee shipped from Brazil. It’s said the bica was invented here. A longtime favorite with writers and artists—including poet Fernando Pessoa, whose statue sits on the pavement terrace—paintings from 1960s habitués decorate the mirrored interior. Make like a local and knock back your (0.70€) shot of coffee standing at the bar, rather than join the tourists paying much more outside.

Rua Garrett, 120. www.abrasileira.pt. 21/346-95-41. Daily 8am–2am. Metro Baixa-Chiado.

Confeitaria Nacional One of Europe’s oldest pastry shops, this place is little changed since it opened in 1829. Its display of homemade pastries will tempt the most calorie-conscious. Locals stand in line at Christmas time for its bolo rei (king of cakes) heavy with crystalized fruit. There are eggy sponge cakes called austríacos in memory of WWII refugees from Austria who left the recipe. Among the creamy and chocolatey delights, our favorites are unassuming aniseed-flavored crescents called meia-luas.

Praça da Figueira, 18. www.confeitarianacional.com. 21/342-44-70. Mon–Thurs 8am–8pm; Fri–Sat 8am–9pm; Sun 9am–9pm. Metro: Rossio.

Martinho da Arcada In the middle of the action, surrounded by government ministries on riverfront Terreiro do Paço, this joint has been serving thirsty Lisboetas since 1782. There’s a bar with a couple of tables for snacks, beer, or coffee, an elegant dining room out back, and an esplanade under the arcades. City workers pop in through the day to refuel, and it’s always been a literary hangout, favored by poet Fernando Pessoa.

Praça do Comercio, 3. www.martinhodaarcada.pt. 21/887-92-59. Daily 7:15am–11pm. Metro: Terreiro do Paço.

Pastéis de Belém This tile-covered cafe/bakery founded in 1837 is famed for the little custard tarts (known as pastéis de nata) that have become one of Portugal’s best-known culinary exports. This is where they were invented to bring in income for cash-strapped monks. Skip the (always long) lines for takeaway by grabbing a table in the waiter-service back room where the tarts come warm from the oven and ready for you to sprinkle them with cinnamon. You can always ask them to add a to-go box to your bill.

Rua de Belém, 84–92. www.pasteisdebelem.pt. 21/363-74-23. Daily 8am–11pm. Tram 15.

Pastelaria Versailles Lisbon’s most beautiful cafe opened in 1922 on one of the new boulevards built for the expanding city. Its gleaming mirrors, carved woodwork, and stained glass recall the French palace of the same name. Waist-coated waiters whisk trays of tea and homemade pastries to crowds of regular customers. They also serve full meals. Recently opened branches are in Belém and at Lisbon Airport.

Avenida da República 15-A. 21/354-63-40. Daily 7:30am–11:45pm.

Museu Nacional de Arte Contemporânea MUSEUM Popularly known as the MNAC or Museu do Chiado, the official title of this fine museum is a little misleading because as well as hosting exhibitions of contemporary artists, the permanent collection presents a panorama of Portuguese art from mid-19th-century Romanticism to eclectic 21st-century works.

Among our favorite pieces, look for works by José de Almada Negreiros, Amadeo de Souza-Cardoso, Columbano Bordalo Pinheiro, José Malhoa, and Paula Rego. Housed in a sprawling building that was formally a Franciscan convent and then a cookie factory before being transformed into a museum during the 1990s. The impressive architecture features a sculpture-filled atrium and garden (although the garden cafe had closed as we went to press).

Despite a recent expansion into a neighboring building (creating a second entrance on Rua Capelo), there’s not enough space to display all 5,000 works, so the collection is regularly rotated.

Rua Serpa Pinto 4. www.museuartecontemporanea.gov.pt. 21/343-21-48. 4.50€, 2.25€ students and over 65s, free for under 12s. Tues–Sun 10am–5:30pm. Metro: Baixa-Chiado. Tram: 28.

Belém, Santos & Alcântara

Among the riverside gardens of Belém, you’ll find Lisbon’s paramount monuments to the Discoveries era, but also exciting modern art and architecture, as well as a range of restaurants and cafes. Portugal’s president has his palace there. Between Belém and downtown, Santos and Alcântara offer a mix of hip shopping and nightlife as well as a couple of top-flight museums.

MAAT MUSEUM The Museum of Art, Architecture and Technology is a spectacular new addition to the Lisbon art scene. Opened in 2016, the building, designed by British architect Amanda Levete, rises like a soft white wave over the Tagus, transforming this stretch of Lisbon’s waterfront. It set records for Lisbon museum attendance in its first week, when natives rushed to view its swooping architectural panache.

The new building connects and contrasts with Centro Tejo , a 20th-century power plant next door, which is also open to visitors as a museum of electricity and hosts regular art exhibitions among the furnaces and turbines.

MAAT showcases the collection of the EDP power company based on 21st-century Portuguese artists and hosts regular temporary exhibitions within its curvilinear galleries, with a focus on links between contemporary art, new media, and technology. The choices are not to everybody’s taste, but even those with no stomach for contemporary art will enjoy strolling up to the grass-covered roof and taking in the views.

Avenida de Brasília, Central Tejo. www.maat.pt. 21/002-81-30. 5€, 2.50€ students and over 65s, free for under 18s and unemployed. Free for everyone the first Sunday of the month. Combined ticket with the Central Tejo powerplant 9€. Wed–Mon 11am–7pm. Train: Belém. Tram: 15. Bus: 728, 714, 727, 729, 751.

Mosteiro dos Jerónimos CHURCH If you visit one monument in Lisbon, this should be it. A UNESCO World Heritage site, this 16th-century monastery is the city’s most impressive building. That’s no secret, so go early or late to avoid the longest lines.

Like the nearby Torre de Belém, the monastery was built on the orders of King Manuel I and is the city’s most expressive showcase of the Manueline architectural style named after the monarch (p. 28). It’s a grandiose expression of the newfound wealth and glory that came with Portugal’s maritime expansion. Manuel paid for it with the so-called “pepper tax” on spices shipped from the East.

From outside, the south portal is the visual centerpiece of the limestone facade, an extraordinary shrine-like doorway carved with saintly figures and Portuguese heroes intertwined with the twisted ropes and exotic vegetation that characterizes the Manueline style. Visitors enter through the west portal , built by French sculptor Nicolas Chantereine, a more discreet but equally ornate entrance, featuring figures of Manuel and his queen, Maria of Aragon.

Once you’re in, the three-aisled church is an immediate showstopper. Slender columns like ship’s masts bloom into flower-like supports for the web of tracery on the vaulted ceiling, a masterpiece by Spanish architect Juan de Castillo. Among the tombs of royalty and Portuguese worthies , those of King Manuel (1469–1521), explorer Vasco da Gama (1460–1524), and poet Luis de Camões (1524–80) standout. At the far end is the capela-mor, the main chapel, built in marble under the orders of Queen Catarina of Austria in 1571 with panels of Mannerist paintings.

Other highlights include the cloisters decorated with Manueline carvings and the refectory , whose walls are lined with 17th-century azulejos. The cloisters hold tombs of great writers including poet Fernando Pessoa (1888–1935). In the 19th century, somebody had the bright idea of appending a long two-story annex to the facade of the building in the then-fashionable neo-Manueline style. It now holds the National Archaeology Museum (where you can buy tickets for Jerónimos from automatic vending machines) and the Maritime Museum (p. 117).

Praça do Império. www.mosteirojeronimos.pt. 21/362-00-34. 10€, 5€ over 625s, free for under 12s. Oct–Apr Tues–Sun 10am–5pm; May–Sept Tues–Sun 10am–6pm. Train: Belém. Tram: 15. Bus: 714, 727, 728, 729, 751.

Belém Attractions

Museu Colecção Berardo MUSEUM In the depths of the bunker-like Centro Cultural de Belém (CCB) is a world-class collection of modern and contemporary art assembled by Joe Berardo, an emigrant from Madeira who made a fortune in South African gold. In the 1990s, he struck a deal with the Portuguese government to place his treasures on public view in this modern architectural landmark across from Jerónimos Monastery.

The collection is divided into two parts. The first features sculpture and painting from 1900 to 1960 and is a who’s who of 20th-century art, littered with works by Picasso, Miró, Pollack, Bacon, Warhol, and many, many more. The post-1960 section covers the latest movements of contemporary creativity from minimalism to Arte Povera and traumatic realism. There’s a 2m (6-ft.) robot made from flickering TV screens by Nam June Paik, some Portuguese barnyard S&M from Paula Rego, and a life-size plastic sheepdog by Jeff Koons. The museum has a challenging program of temporary exhibitions of Portuguese and international artists.

The CCB is Portugal’s biggest cultural space and has a packed program of concerts, plays, and other events (p. 138) as well as a couple of good restaurants and interesting shops.

Praça do Império. www.museuberardo.pt. 21/361-2878. 5€, 2.50€ students, over 65s and youngsters 7–18, free for under 7s and for all on Sat. Daily 10am–6:30pm. Train: Belém. Tram: 15. Bus: 714, 727, 728, 729, 751.

Museu do Oriente MUSEUM Down by the docks, just next to the Alcântara station, is a windowless white warehouse built in the 1940s to store salt cod. In 2008, it was transformed into a museum to celebrate Lisbon’s 5 centuries of cultural and commercial exchanges with Asia. The dark spaces inside feature eclectic collections ranging from larger-than-life statues of Jesuit martyrs to traditional Korean costumes, Indian shadow puppets, suits of Samurai armor, or ritual masks from East Timor. Temporary exhibitions showcase contemporary Asian artists or focus on more treasures from the storerooms. The cultural program ranges from concerts of Japanese flute music to Bollywood movie evenings. Visitors can sign up for workshops for adults and children; themes include Chinese kite-making, yoga, or Japanese manga drawing. The top-floor restaurant is reputed to serve the best brunch in town.

Avenida Brasília, Doca de Alcântara. www.museudooriente.pt. 21/358-52-00. 6€; 3.50€ over 65s; 2.50€ students; 2€ youngsters 6–12; free under-6 and for all Fri 6pm–9:30pm. Open Tues–Thurs and Sat–Sun 10am–5:30pm; Fri 10am–9:30pm. Train: Alcântara. Tram: 15, 18. Bus: 714, 738, 742.

Museu Nacional de Arte Antiga MUSEUM Portugal’s finest collection of old masters is housed in a clifftop 17th-century palace and adjacent convent backed by grassy, sculpture-filled garden where visitors can enjoy 180-degree harbor views while enjoying coffee or lunch from the self-service restaurant/cafe.

Inside, the National Museum of Ancient Art is focused on Portuguese and European art from the 15th to 19th centuries. Masterpieces include the nightmarish Temptations of St. Anthony by Hieronymus Bosch ; Francisco de Zurbarán’s full-body portraits of the 12 Apostles ; a wickedly seductive Salomé by Lucas Cranach ; and a pair of golden 16th-century Japanese screen paintings depicting Portuguese sailors arriving in Nagasaki. For many Portuguese, however, the museum’s greatest treasure item is the Panels of St. Vincent , a massive 1470s work by Nuno Gonçalves depicting Lisbon society—from fishermen to royalty—at the time of the Discoveries.

Besides the world-class painting collection, there are rooms filled with goldware, ceramics, antique furniture and textiles from around Europe and the lands visited by Portuguese explorers. Don’t miss the Belém Monstrance , a solid gold creation crafted by playwright Gil Vicente in 1506 with gold brought home by Vasco da Gama from the coast of East Africa on his way back from the first sea voyage to India. Diverse objects from West Africa, India, Persia, China, and Japan also recall Portugal’s overseas ventures.

Rua das Janelas Verdes 95. www.museudearteantiga.pt. 21/391-28-00. 6€; 3€ over 65s; free under 12s. Tues–Sun 10am–6pm. Tram: 25. Bus: 713, 714, 727.

Museu Nacional dos Coches MUSEUM Every child who visits the National Coach Museum here must dream about hiding until midnight to find out if the gleaming gold carriages turn into pumpkins. This is one of Europe’s finest collections of horse-drawn coaches and one of the most visited museums in the country. It was founded in 1905 to showcase the carriages of the aristocracy and royal family. The oldest coach on exhibit carried King Phillip III of Spain on a visit to Lisbon in 1618. The golden carriage—shipped from Vienna by Emperor Joseph I for his sister Maria Anna’s 1708 wedding to Portugal’s King Joao V—is the most fairytale-like. Others among the rococo contraptions were used by popes, nobles, and crowned heads from Portugal and around Europe, but there’s no evidence any of them ever rushed a kitchen maid with missing glass slipper home from a ball.

Controversially, in 2015 the museum was moved into a vast ultra-modern building across the road from its original atmospheric home in the old royal stables (which can still be visited). Still, it remains one of Portugal’s most-visited museums.

Avenida da Índia 136. www.museudoscoches.gov.pt. 21/073-23-19. 8€, (10€ if you include the royal stables); 4€ (5€ with stables) for over 65s; free for under 12s. Tues–Sun 10am–5:30pm. Train: Belém. Tram: 15. Bus: 714, 727, 729, 751.

Padrão dos Descobrimentos MONUMENT The 50m-high (164-ft.) Discoveries Monument was first erected in the 1940s by Portugal’s Fascist-inspired dictatorship to celebrate the Age of Discovery. It remains a striking landmark jutting like the bow of a caravela sailing boat over the waters of the Tagus. From the bow to the stern, the pure white monolith is lined with outsized statues of Discoveries-era heroes including Vasco da Gama and Ferdinand Magellan. They are led by Henry the Navigator standing proud atop the prow. The original temporary structure was replaced by the current concrete-and-limestone monument in 1960 to mark the 500th year after Henry’s death. Among the sculptures on the west side is Gomes Eanes de Zurara’s poignant description of the 1444 sale of the first Africans carried to Portugal as slaves. In another sign of the Discoveries’ darker associations, the giant compass rose laid out before the monument was a 1960 gift to the Salazar dictatorship from the apartheid government of South Africa. There are temporary exhibitions inside and views over Belém and the river from the terrace.

Av. de Brasília. www.padraodosdescobrimentos.pt. 21/303-19-50. 6€; 5€ over 65s; 3€ youngsters 13–18; free under 12s. Mar–Sept daily 10am–8:30pm; Oct–Feb Tues–Sun 10am–5:30pm. Train: Belém. Tram: 15. Bus: 714, 727, 728, 729, 751.

Palacio da Ajuda PALACE In the aftermath of the 1755 earthquake, King José I was so shaken up he refused to live under masonry and ordered the building of a wooden cabin, known as the “royal shack” on a hillside above Belém. When she succeeded to the throne, his daughter Queen Maria I wanted something grander, ordering the construction of a colossal neo-classical palace in white stone. Work hardly got underway when Napoleon invaded, and the royals fled to Brazil. Then came Civil War (1828–1834). Then the money ran out. All that left the palace looking from one side like a grand rival to London’s Buckingham Palace, from the other like an abandoned construction site. Still the royal family lived there until booted out by a republican revolution in 1910. It makes an impressive visit with the sumptuous salons fully furnished with regal trappings, as if they were expecting the monarch to return at any moment. Particularly imposing is the banqueting room where the president still holds state dinners. In 2016, a 21€-million plan was announced to finish the construction by building a west wing to hold the crown jewels, currently stashed in vaults. It’s unlikely to be open before 2021, and there will be closures of some rooms during the construction work. Behind the palace, Lisbon’s oldest Botanical garden laid out in 1768 is a festival of exotic flora with a 2€ admission fee.

Largo da Ajuda. www.palacioajuda.gov.pt. 21/363-70-95. 5€; 2.50€ students and over 65s; free under 13s. Thurs–Tues 10am–5:30pm; Train: Belém. Bus: 729, 732, 742.

Torre de Belém MONUMENT This graceful white tower set on the bank of the Tagus is Portugal’s most recognizable landmark. Now a World Heritage site, it was constructed in 1520 and is a prime example of the Discoveries-era Manueline architecture (p. 28), standing close to where the explorers’ boats set to sea.

Although it looks more decorative than warlike, it was built to defend the entrance to Lisbon and saw action in the 1830s when its cannons fired on French ships intervening in Portugal’s Civil War. The park surrounding it is a shaded place where you can contemplate the castellated tower and carvings of ropes, regal domes, shields, and intricate statues. However, the mostly empty interior can be a little underwhelming, especially if you’ve had to endure the long lines to get in. Spend a moment to contemplate the next-door memorial to soldiers killed in Portugal’s 1961–1974 colonial wars.

Avenida de Brasília. www.torrebelem.gov.pt. 21/362-0034. 6€; 3€ over 65s and students; free under 12. Oct–Apr Tues–Sun 10am–5pm; May–Sept Tues–Sun 10am–6pm. Train: Belém. Tram: 15. Bus: 714, 727, 728, 729, 751.

Parque das Nações & Xabregas

On the city’s northeastern edge, Parque das Nações is a complete contrast with old Lisbon, a planned neighborhood which since the 1990s has replaced old docks and industrial space with ultra-modern architecture, including cultural and entertainment centers, shopping malls, hotels, and restaurants. The main draw is undoubtedly the amazing aquarium, but there’s much more to do and see. On the way there, the old dockside districts of Xabregas, Beato, and Marvila are fast up-and-coming.

Museu Nacional do Azulejo MUSEUM Wherever you travel around Portugal you’ll see azulejos. The painted ceramic tiles are used to decorate buildings inside and out, from medieval churches and baroque palaces to modern metro stations. The best place to understand this thoroughly Portuguese artform is this museum, situated in a gem of a 16th-century convent in an out-of-the-way riverside neighborhood. The collection traces the history of Portuguese tiles over 600 years. Highlights include a giant panel showing Lisbon before the great earthquake of 1755, and above all the fabulous convent church decorated with blue-and-white tiles and carvings covered in gold leaf. Don’t let the outdated and malfunctioning website put you off; the museum really is worth a visit.

Rua da Madre de Deus 4. www.museudoazulejo.gov.pt. 21/810-03-40. Adults 5€, 2.50€ students with ID and over 65s, free for under-13s. Tues–Sun 10am–5:30pm. Bus: 718, 742, 794.

Oceanário de Lisboa AQUARIUM Arguably the most spectacular aquarium on the planet, this opened as the focal point of the 1998 World’s Fair and remains the city’s most popular indoor attraction. At the core of the ultra-modern riverside building is a 1.3-million-gallon tank, 23 feet deep and holding over 100 species of sea life including sharks, rays, barracuda, and a slow-moving ocean sunfish weighing in at over 1 ton.

Floor-to-ceiling panels enable visitors to stay nose-to-nose with these creatures as they circle the main tank to visit the four corner towers, representing life in the Atlantic, Indian, Antarctic, and Pacific oceans.

You start your visit on the surface, ogling penguins, puffins, brilliantly colored frogs, and playful sea otters. Then you spiral down through startlingly different ecosystems, discovering psychedelically colored cuttlefish, jewel-like wrasse and puffers, and shoals of luminous jellyfish.

It’s a delight for all ages, beautifully laid out and well explained. For a night to remember, you can book your kids for an overnight sleepover party next to the shark-filled tank. The Oceanário isn’t cheap, but fees support its scientific, education, and conservation work.

Esplanada d. Carlos I. www.oceanario.pt. 21/891-70-00. 16€, 11€ children 4–12 and over 65s, free for under 4s. Family tickets 42€. Apr–Oct daily 10am–7pm, Nov–Mar daily 10am–6pm. Metro: Oriente; Bus 728.

Art on the streets

Lisbon is scarred by senseless graffiti splattered on churches, historic monuments, trains, businesses, and private homes, but among the dross are dozens of outstanding murals that make the city a leading European street-art hub. There are organized tours that will take you to some of the best-known spots: try www.alternativelisbon.co or www.lisbonstreetarttours.com. Alternatively, just keep your eyes open as you wander the city. Among the most eye-catching works are the portrait of fado legend Amália Rodriques by Vhils at Calçada do Menino de Deus, 1-3 in Alfama; the house-size Racoon created by Bordallo II out of auto parts near Rua Bartolomeu Dias, 43, just behind Belém Cultural Center; the tribute to Portugal’s 1974 democratic revolution by U.S. artist Shepard Fairey at Rua Natália Correia 11; and the murals by an international group of artists covering a whole block of abandoned buildings halfway down Avenida Fontes Pereira de Melo. Far from the beaten track but well worth a visit is Quinta do Mocho, a tough neighborhood on the far side of Lisbon airport where tenement blocks are decorated with almost 70 murals in what’s believed to be Europe’s biggest urban art space. Tours can be arranged at www.greentrekker.pt.

Estrela, Campo do Ourique & Avenidas Novas

Less visited than the city’s ancient core, central Lisbon’s northern districts offer verdant avenues, cool gardens, excellent shopping, restaurants, and some fascinating museums and monuments.

Aqueduto das Águas Livres MONUMENT The Águas Livres aqueduct is an engineering marvel whose giant arches stride over 11 miles into the city. Built in the 18th century, it survived the 1755 earthquake and carried water to Lisbon until the 1960s. It’s still run by Lisbon’s water company and is part of its network of museums and monuments, including pumping stations and vast underground cisterns.

A walk across the soaring arches is a unique experience. It’s about 1km (about 1,000 yards) each way from the main entrance in Campolide to the end in the Monsanto park. The walkway over the aqueduct used to be a regular access for rural people heading into the city, where in the 1830s, dozens fell victim to serial killer Diogo Alves, who would throw them into the valley 60 meters (almost 200 f.t) below. After his execution, Alves’ head was preserved for scientific research and remains on show at the university medical facility.

Among the reservoirs that form part of the water museum, the Mãe d’Água (Mother of Water) is a vast cistern that feels like a flooded cathedral with columns supporting the high, arched roof emerging from the waters.

Aquaduct: Calçada da Quintinha 6. www.epal.pt. 21/810-02-15. 3€; 1.50€ students and over 65s, free under 12s. Tues–Sun 10am–5:30pm. Bus: 742, 751, 758. Mãe d’Água: Praça das Amoreiras 10. 3€; 2.50€ students and over 65s; free under 12s. Tues–Sun 10am–12:30pm and 1:30–5pm. Metro: Rato. Bus: 706, 709, 713, 758, 720, 727, 738, 774.

Basílica da Estrela CHURCH The twin bell towers and white dome of one of Lisbon’s biggest religious buildings recall the baroque churches of Rome. It was built in 1779, on the orders of Queen Maria I who is buried inside. A nativity scene containing over 500 cork and terracotta figures by 18th-century sculptor Joaquim Machado de Castro is a main attraction amid Italian paintings and multicolored marble. More than 100,000 people packed the church and surrounding streets for the funeral of fado diva Amália Rodrigues in 1999. Across the road, the Jardim da Estrela is one of the city center’s most relaxing parks, featuring ponds and shady tropical plants.

Largo da Estrela. 21/396-09-15. Free. Daily 8.45am–8pm. Tram: 25, 28. Bus: 713, 773, 774.

Cemitério dos Prazeres MONUMENT This graveyard is the end of the line for westbound travelers on Tram 28. Opened in the 1830s, Prazeres cemetery is Lisbon’s largest. An improbable attraction maybe, but it is a historic and absorbing place to visit, featuring lane after lane lined with cypress trees and ornate mausoleums built to house the remains of Portugal’s most distinguished families. A white pyramid built in 1849 for the family of the Dukes of Palmela is Europe’s largest private mausoleum and is replete with masonic symbolism. The cemetery lies on the edge of the leafy Campo de Ourique neighborhood, which makes a pleasant place to stroll with many cafes, restaurants, and Art Deco buildings.

Praça São João Bosco. 21/396-15-11. Free. Winter 9am–4:30pm. Summer 9am–5:30pm. Tram: 25, 28. Bus: 701, 709, 774.

Fundação Amália Rodrigues Casa Museu MUSEUM On a street where you can find Portugal’s parliament and Lisbon’s best collection of antique shops is the home of fado’s greatest singer (p. 35). This three-story ochre house has been left largely as it was when Amália lived here, up to her death in 1999 at the age of 79. The guide tells the story of her rags to riches story through thousands of the diva’s personal items including swanky dresses, jewelry, and portraits. Poignantly, the star’s pet parrot still lives in the kitchen and occasionally says “olá” to visitors. It’s a fascinating insight into the star’s lifestyle. In the summer from 5–7pm there are live fado performances in the patio cafe behind the house.

Rua de São Bento 193. www.amaliarodrigues.pt. 21/397-18-96. 5€; 3.50€ students and over 65s; free under 5s. Daily 10am–6pm. Metro: Rato. Bus: 707, 727.

Museu Calouste Gulbenkian MUSEUM One of the world’s greatest private art collections was amassed by Armenian oil magnate Calouste Gulbenkian (p. 30). Thanks to Gulbenkian’s discerning taste, many of the foundation’s 6,000 items are masterpieces. The museum treads a path through almost every era in the history of art. There are funeral masks from ancient Egypt and Assyrian carvings made in 888 b.c. You’ll discover rare Greek vases and Roman jewels, Persian rugs, Ottoman ceramics, and Armenian Bibles sumptuously illustrated in the 1620s. One gallery overflows with Japanese and Chinese porcelain, the next features furniture and tableware from the palaces of French kings and Russian czars.

Rembrandts, Turners, and Manets shine among the European art . Among our favorites are a wistful Portrait of a Young Woman painted in 1490 by Florentine master Domenico Ghirlandaio and a wintery Claude Monet landscape, The Thaw. The final room is devoted to the gem-encrusted genius of Art Nouveau designer René Lalique .

All this is held in a low-lying 1960s building that also holds concert halls, conference rooms, and temporary exhibitions. Its landscaped gardens are filled with wild birds, leafy paths, and tumbling steams, making a perfect place to escape the city bustle. On the other side of the garden, a separate museum holds the Modern Collection , considered the most complete collection of 20th-century Portuguese art and a big selection by international artists. The same ticket gets you into both. There are good cafe/restaurants in both museums and in the gardens.

Av. de Berna 45. www.gulbenkian.pt. 21/782-30-00. 10€; 5€ for under 25s and over 65s. Free for under 12s and for all Sunday after 2pm. Wed–Mon 10am–6pm. Metro: Sebastião or Praça de Espanha. Bus: 713, 716, 726, 742, 746, 756.

Lisbon for Kids

The display of aquatic life at the Oceanário de Lisboa (p. 113) is indisputably Lisbon’s No. 1 attraction for kids (and for many adults), but there’s much else to keep children happy, from trips to suburban beaches on the Cascais coast (p. 147), to a hands-on science museum, “dragon boats,” and equine dancing displays.

Escola Portuguesa de Arte Equestre RIDING SCHOOL Horse lovers will delight at the dressage skills performed regularly by the Portuguese School of Equestrian Art. The shows are held in a specially designed riding ring just up the road from Belém’s National Coach Museum (see p. 111). Wearing 18th-century aristocratic outfits, riders mounted on beautiful Lusitano horses execute a series of precise routines to uphold an ancient tradition of Portuguese equestrian expertise. It’s considered one of the “big four” such riding schools alongside those of Vienna, Saumur in France, and Jerez, Spain. Spectators can attend hourlong training sessions mornings Tuesday through Saturday at 10am, or attend grand gala nights held the final Friday of every month at 9:30pm. Check in advance for other times.

Calçada da Ajuda, next to No. 23. www.arteequestre.pt. 21/923-73-00. Training sessions 8€–12€; Gala nights 25€–38€. Metro: Belém. Tram: 15. Bus: 728, 714, 727, 729, 751.

Jardim Zoológico de Lisboa ZOO Lisbon’s Zoo has been charming kids for over 130 years. It holds over 2,000 animals from 300 different species. One that you’re unlikely to see anywhere else is the Iberian lynx—the world’s rarest cat struggles to survive in the wild of southern Spain and southeastern Portugal. The pair here are part of a conservation program.

The zoo fell on hard times in the 1980s but has turned itself around and is now a modern and much-loved animal park, where Portuguese children flock to see rare red pandas, a dolphin show, or the “enchanted woods” where exotic bird fly in the open air. It’s designed to let visitors get as close as possible to the animals and includes a cable car that whisks visitors over the enclosures.

Praça Marechal Humberto Delgado. www.zoo.pt. 21/723-29-00. 22€, 16€ seniors, 15€ kids 3–12, free under 3s. Summer daily 10am–6:45pm; Winter 10am–5:15pm. Metro: Jardim Zoológico. Bus: 701, 716, 726, 731, 746, 754, 755, 758, 768, 770.

Museu de Marinha MUSEUM The Navy Museum is one of the best of its kind in Europe, a tribute to Portugal’s one-time domination of the high seas. It’s installed in the west wing of the Mosteiro dos Jerónimos. Grabbing the limelight are five 18th-century royal galleys, their bows decorated with gilded dragon figureheads. The grandest of all, built in 1784, ferried the royal family to a British fleet as they fled to Brazil just before Napoleon’s troops captured Lisbon. It was last used in 1957 to give Queen Elizabeth II of England a trip on the Tagus. The museum has an important collection of artifacts from the Age of Discoveries, including a battered statue of Archangel Raphael which Vasco da Gama carried on his voyages to India. There’s also the seaplane piloted by Carlos Gago Coutinho and Artur de Sacadura Cabral on their first flight between Europe and South America in 1922. The Navy runs a number of other visitor attractions, including the next-door Planetarium and a 19th-century frigate, the Dom Fernando II , across the river in Almada. It’s fun to visit by taking one of the little orange ferry boats from Cais do Sodré to Cacilhas.

Praça do Império. www.ccm.marinha.pt/pt. 21/097-73-88. 6.50€, 3.25€ kids 4–12, over 65s, free for under 4s. Oct–Apr: Daily 10am–4:30pm; May–Sept: Daily 10am–5:30pm. Train: Belém. Tram: 15. Bus: 714, 727, 28, 729, 751.

Pavilhão do Conhecimento-Ciência Viva MUSEUM This wonderfully interactive science museum lets the little ones simulate an astronaut jump, ride a bike on a high-wire, build a bridge they can walk over, and any number of other gee-whiz experiments. The building was one of the highlights of Expo ’98 in the Parque das Nações district. It brims with interactive exhibits that are educational, but still a bundle of laughs for youngsters and their parents.

Largo José Mariano Gago 1. www.pavconhecimento.pt. 21/891-71-00. 9€, 7€ youngsters 12–17, 6€ seniors and kids 3–11, free under 3s; 24€ families (2 adults and with kids up to 17). June–Aug: Mon–Fri 10am–5:30pm, Sat–Sun 11am–6:30pm; Sept–May: Tues–Fri 10am–5:30pm, Sat–Sun 11am–6:30pm. Metro: Oriente. Bus: 728.

Telecabine Lisboa CABLE CAR Built (like most of Parque das Nações) for the World’s Fair in 1998, the cable car pulls you along over the riverbank, 100 feet up, offering spectacular views over the Tagus and the area’s modern architectural landmarks, such as the graceful Vasco da Gama bridge (Western Europe’s longest at 7.6 miles), the towering Myriad Hotel, and the egg-like Altice Arena. It’s close to the Oceanário, the Ciência Viva science museum, and the Vasco da Gama shopping mall. The trip lasts about 10 minutes.

Passeio de Neptuno. www.telecabinelisboa.pt. 21/895-61-43. One-way ticket 4€; 2.60€ kids 5–12 and over 65s; free under 5s. Spring and fall daily 11am–7pm; summer 10:30am–8pm; winter 11am–6pm. Metro: Oriente. Bus: 728.

City Strolls

Lisbon is a walker’s delight; the city’s principal neighborhoods abound with major sights and quiet glimpses into daily life.

Walking Tour 1 Alfama

Start:	Praça do Comércio.
Finish:	Costa da Castelo.
Time:	2 hours.
Best Times:	A day when it’s not too hot.
Worst Times:	When the mercury tops 30°C.

The streets of Alfama are best traversed on foot, even if that means some steep hills. If it’s too tiring, hop on Trams 28 or 12, which clatter through the narrow streets.

From Praça do Comércio head east along Rua da Alfândega.

1Igreja da Conceição

Built in the 1500s on the site of a synagogue, this once-grand church was almost completely destroyed by the 1755 quake. The magnificent Manueline doorway survives complete with floral designs, mythical beasts, and maritime mementoes.

Continue on Rua da Alfândega until it opens onto Campo de Cebolas:

Walking Tour: Alfama

2Casa dos Bicos

This noble residence built in 1523 has a facade of stone spikes inspired by Renaissance Italy. It hosts a foundation dedicated to José Saramago, the Nobel-winning novelist who died in 2010. His ashes are buried under the olive tree out front.

Keep heading east on Rua Cais de Santarém.

3Chafariz de El-Rei

The facade dates from 1864, but this is one of the oldest drinking fountains in Lisbon, opened in 1487. Noble households and the India fleet tanked up with water here.

Take the alley on the left, then stairs leading up to Rua Judaria, in the heart of the old Jewish quarter, pass Largo de São Rafael on to Rua de São Miguel.

4Igreja de São Miguel

It’s a pity this pretty white church in the heart of Alfama only opens Wednesday and Friday 4 to 6pm and Sunday 8 to 10am. Inside, it’s a jewel box of gilded 17th-century wood carvings.

Wind your way uphill, north along steps and lanes until you reach:

5Largo das Portas do Sol

This is one of the best vistas in Lisbon, busy with street performers. Look beyond the statue of St. Vincent toward the rooftops and river (p. 101).

Turn west along Rua de Santiago and Largo dos Lóis until you reach Costa da Castelo.

6Chapitô

You deserve a break. A circus school may not seem like the most relaxing place, but it has an excellent restaurant with lovely views over the city and a shady patio cafe. 21/888-01-54.

Walking Tour 2 Baixa, the Center & the Chiado

Start:	Praça do Comércio.
Finish:	Elevador de Santa Justa.
Time:	3 hours.
Best Times:	Any sunny day except Sunday.
Worst Times:	Monday to Saturday from 7:30 to 9am and 5 to 7pm; Sunday, when shops are closed.

This tours also starts in:

1Praça do Comércio

One of Europe’s most beautiful squares, looking out over Tagus, it was the nerve center of Portugal’s maritime empire. The royal palace that stood here was destroyed by the 1755 earthquake. In its place are sturdy white towers bookending rows of pastel-painted government ministries. Long arcades cover cafes and restaurants. To the east, the Lisbon Story Centre (www.lisboastorycentre.pt) gives an interactive explanation of the city’s history, complete with mock quake. A horseback statue of King José I (1714–77) dominates the center of the plaza.

Head north along:

Walking Tour: Baixa to Intendente

2Rua Augusta

Facing the river is a triumphal arch, the Arco da Rua Augusta, which you can climb for 2.50€ to enjoy 360-degree views over the Baixa. Through the arch is Rua Augusta, a bustling pedestrianized thoroughfare in the heart of the grid-plan district. Sadly, tourist traps have replaced many of the authentic old stores and cafes, but some gems survive, like Casa Pereira da Conceição, selling coffee and fans; fabrics store Londres Salão; and 1913 wine store and grocer Casa Macário.